Help! Supra doesn't run right

Abe's 1987

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Sweeeeeet I got the alternator working. I also most likely figured out my headlight issue. I unhooked the turbo timer and now the headlights works properly. Won't officially know for sure until I hook everything back up for the dash. I'm still working on the cluster. Radiator light doesn't light up with ignition to the on position as all other warning lights do on the cluster. It has a new bulb and bulb holder. Also the tems light on the cluster dosent light up at all. I'm going to also refresh all the bulbs on the cluster as some of them are pretty dull as I have the cluster off. Might as well. Will install the new windshield washer pump when I get it in with new grommet.

I can't seem to find the part number for the footrest screws on tsrm. I want to get new ones from toyota if they still have them available. Anyone here know the part numbers for thoes?
 

Piratetip

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Some of those components can be tough to find in the EPC.
Are you referring to the dead pedal next to the clutch?

Component should be in this page of EPC.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=5801&P=1

Screws. PN: 90159-60292

Part says discontinued.
Though there are likely many other bolts from Toyota that will work in it's place.

Good work getting the parts fixed / working one by one.
 

Abe's 1987

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Some of those components can be tough to find in the EPC.
Are you referring to the dead pedal next to the clutch?

Component should be in this page of EPC.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=5801&P=1

Screws. PN: 90159-60292

Part says discontinued.
Though there are likely many other bolts from Toyota that will work in it's place.

Good work getting the parts fixed / working one by one.
Yup that was the screws I'm talking about, ah dang. I saw that page, i just missed it when looking. Will order used ones then. I figured I would purchase the smaller less expensive things I need new from toyota and the larger more expensive things I'd buy used from ebay or members on here.

Yeah that's my goal for this here baby, make sure everything works properly. Right now my major problems is fpr not getting vac, fuel pressure drop after engine shut off, antilock light remains on, and finally the tems indicator not lighting up. Then minor little things like dome light not turning on, radiator light on cluster not lighting up, master switch not working for passenger window, and finally passenger front side marker most likely needs new bulb. Then from there need to buy all the missing interior and exterior parts. And a few missing things in the engine bay. And once I get it at least driveable, got to take it to a body shop and have them weld that headlight/radiator support bar on and fix a few issues here and there.
 

Abe's 1987

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Some of those components can be tough to find in the EPC.
Are you referring to the dead pedal next to the clutch?

Component should be in this page of EPC.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=5801&P=1

Screws. PN: 90159-60292

Part says discontinued.
Though there are likely many other bolts from Toyota that will work in it's place.

Good work getting the parts fixed / working one by one.
I just checked on the part number, it says they're in stock and ready to order from toyotapartsdeal.com
 

plaaya69

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For that foot rest I would recommend you use two OEM 10mm bolts w/washers in that spot as I am sure you have some extra Supra bolts laying around that you do not need. That is what I am running as that original Phillips bolts was rusted in there bad and I did not want that to happen again. The bolts also sit flush with the foot rest so no bumps or other problems other that easy removal if you need to do that again :)
 

Abe's 1987

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For that foot rest I would recommend you use two OEM 10mm bolts w/washers in that spot as I am sure you have some extra Supra bolts laying around that you do not need. That is what I am running as that original Phillips bolts was rusted in there bad and I did not want that to happen again. The bolts also sit flush with the foot rest so no bumps or other problems other that easy removal if you need to do that again :)
Considering recommendation!!! Reason I say considering is im trying to keep everything stock.

One thing I am going to do that's not 100% stock is have the trunk pull out canopy reupholstery . I've already disassembled it and will take the material part to an upholstery shop and have a new one made. Going to also scrape the chipping plastic off the housing and a fresh coat of paint on it or maybe wrap it, undecided on that. Will reuse most everything on it.
 

Abe's 1987

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Y'all won't believe what I did today. I got her off the jack stands and on the ground. Theeeennn I drove her. Ah man it feels so good to finally drive her.

Buuuttt I found out the brakes are sticking and smoking really badly due to them sticking. The brake pedal feels very mushy. It causing the supra to not really move freely like it should, like its being held back. Could the antilock light being on have something to do with this?

The steering clicks when I turn and the steering feels very loose. The feeling loose could be me being use to the stiff bmw steering but this seems really loose.

And the speedometer is all finicky. It fluctuates alot. I might need to check the speedo cable.

Oh the headlights are still having the same issue, so it wasn't the turbo timer as I thought it was.

The good news is I figured out the main issue it was having. Now i need to fix these little things.
 
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Abe's 1987

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Ok after doing some research I will most likely need to rebuild my calipers. Will definitely be cheaper to rebuild them compared to buying new ones!

Will most likely rebuild the rack and pinion as well.

Means I got to put the car back up on jacks again! :(

Edit: ok it's about the same price to just buy a rebuilt rack and pinion. Less headache of tearing mine apart.
 
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Abe's 1987

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So the last owner had a shift knob that didn't even fit. I went on eBay and bought this
20180409_185830.jpg
It is from a 96 sc300. It fits perfectly.
 

Abe's 1987

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I just recently drove a sc300 with a manual transmission. I know its a w58 and I have a r154, but would the shifter assembly from the sc300 fit my supra? I love how short the shifter is on the sc300. If it would take some minor modification i would mind doing so. But if it is something major i would have to do most likely wont get into it.
 

Abe's 1987

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1523926282031339490700.jpg
Got the calipers apart. Will clean the hell out of the caliper and piston and will put on new rebuild gaskets. I don't see any pitting in the piston so they should be good.

Will probably go to toyota and get the pink/red caliper grease and use that on the gaskets. What do you guys think?
 

Asterix

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The R154 & W58 use the same shifter interface. There are two available options: the S3v2 from Raptor Racing, and Driftmotion's. They're basically the same price, so decide which you want based on which design you like better. Both are just bolt-on easy. Swap takes 30 minutes if you're good at getting the inside trim apart like I am.

There is a really cheap option, too, called the SOGI short shift mod. That mod just shortens the shift rod, leaving the pivot point the same.

I have a 15-year-old S3v1 which just died. The bottom-side plastic bearing for the pivot ball disintegrated. So, I ordered a new shifter from Driftmotion. They're having supply issues like everyone else due to an aluminum shortage, so I haven't seen it yet. Edit: it just shipped today! That means they have them in stock.

I like the feel of no isolation, so didn't get the S3v2.
 
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Abe's 1987

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Polished the caliper piston. One on the left is just cleaned up and one on the right is polished. Major difference. Fyi, they both looked the same before polishing so a good compound and polish with a buffer cleans it up nicely. 1523996455027292141268.jpg
 
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Abe's 1987

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The R154 & W58 use the same shifter interface. There are two available options: the S3v2 from Raptor Racing, and Driftmotion's. They're basically the same price, so decide which you want based on which design you like better. Both are just bolt-on easy. Swap takes 30 minutes if you're good at getting the inside trim apart like I am.

There is a really cheap option, too, called the SOGI short shift mod. That mod just shortens the shift rod, leaving the pivot point the same.

I have a 15-year-old S3v1 which just died. The bottom-side plastic bearing for the pivot ball disintegrated. So, I ordered a new shifter from Driftmotion. They're having supply issues like everyone else due to an aluminum shortage, so I haven't seen it yet. Edit: it just shipped today! That means they have them in stock.

I like the feel of no isolation, so didn't get the S3v2.
Yeah I want the short throw shifter with the length of the shifter shortened as well. Kinda like the mk4 supra or the sc300.
 

Abe's 1987

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Went to toyota today and ordered the caliper red rubber grease. Should be in this Saturday. Got the caliper rebuild kits for both front and back. Will have everything back together hopefully this Tuesday. Just started a list of things to be repair or replace on my supra. Will go through the list one by one and knock them out.

Been keeping an eye out on supras for sale in the houston area. Aren't very many of them for sale here. I got lucky with mine. My brother also got lucky and bought a sc300 with a manual which there aren't many of those for sale in the whole nation.
 

f00g00

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You should take your car and get it aligned. Before you do though since you are comfortable working on your own car, check the security of the whole system including the rubber grommets that wraparound the rack and pinion to see if they are in decent shape and the bolts are tight. I had a situation where my car had a slight delayed steering when cornering because the rack would shift left or right slightly when cornering. The ratcheting you mentioned could be a worn out rack though.
Sounds like your almost there.
 

Abe's 1987

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You should take your car and get it aligned. Before you do though since you are comfortable working on your own car, check the security of the whole system including the rubber grommets that wraparound the rack and pinion to see if they are in decent shape and the bolts are tight. I had a situation where my car had a slight delayed steering when cornering because the rack would shift left or right slightly when cornering. The ratcheting you mentioned could be a worn out rack though.
Sounds like your almost there.
Yeah will get that alignment done after brakes are done. Like I said I'm accumulating a list of everything that needs to be done. Slowly but surely going through it and am making every correction on the supra. I want this beast running perfect. I just ordered a stock airbox because I also want her stock as well for now. This way i know for sure there's no issues before i start putting some power in her.

But my main concern after brakes is getting the fpr vacuum working and get the system to hold pressure after shut off. Will look into those after brakes. Been busy working on my dd and the brakes on the supra.
 

Abe's 1987

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Got the calipers together and on the supra with the toyota red caliper grease on the rebuild kit and slide pins. Bled the holy hell out of the system. Went through two gallons of brake fluid to make damn sure there was no air in the system at all. Yes it was overkill, and no I will reuse the brake fluid I bled through the system as it is still clean. Hand tested the brake to make sure they weren't locking up and function properly which it did pass that test. Just need to drive her to make sure it stops and goes without flaw. Saw no leaks which im happy about

Will also crawl under the car to make sure the steering and suspension are good as f00g00 stated. Will check all bushings and bolt torque are correct. Question is where to buy shocks that works with the tems that doesn't cost over $1000 as I'm seeing them at?

Then gots to fix the fpr not getting vac at idle and fuel pressure drops to 0 psi after engine shut off.

MAN I'M ALMOST THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

3p141592654

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Sadly the TEMS shocks are discontinued. For a long time the Tokiko Illuminas were available aftermarket, but there is nothing now except some very expensive KYBs available in Japan only.
 

3p141592654

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Well, when the day comes and my illuminas are done, I will probaly look at trying to hook TEMS to some EDFC Tein coilovers, or something equivalent.
 

Abe's 1987

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Well, when the day comes and my illuminas are done, I will probaly look at trying to hook TEMS to some EDFC Tein coilovers, or something equivalent.
That would be sweet. But doesn't tems pretty much stiffen the suspension when in sports mode? How would coilovers work with tems?
 

Abe's 1987

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Took a video of my supra idling. Sounds good other then a slight misfire.


Pretty much drivable. Drove it around the neighborhood. And no the time on the cluster is not flickering, its my phone camera.
 
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Abe's 1987

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Sweet, you've come a long way from your first videos!! I see you have a supermonitor. That option cost almost $2000 back then.
Yeah I noticed the super monitor but yet have to play with it. I think I got almost a fully loaded supra here. Just missing leather. Will diffinantly have all cloth upholstered in leather later on.
 

Abe's 1987

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Yup yup got insurance on the supra today. Gotta dumby up a horn for inspection to pass. Then get inspection registration and title transfer finally.

I think my combination harness is all out of wack. Headlights and horn are on the fritz. Will check into that after inspection registration and title transfer.
 

Abe's 1987

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Anitlock light on. I guess that one remains a mystery for now.
Yes the antilock light remains on. Also while driving the rear light failure comes on but the rear lights work. I might be dealing with a grounding issue is my guess reason I'm having headlight, horn, rear light failure, antilock and fpr issues. Will look into it soon but first get it legal to drive.
 

Abe's 1987

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Had a question. The lock bezels for the interior door locks, where would I find the metal retaining clips for those? All 4 of mine are gone. Can I get them new from toyota or maybe from a auto parts store? Any part numbers on those?
 

Asterix

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Yes the antilock light remains on. Also while driving the rear light failure comes on but the rear lights work. I might be dealing with a grounding issue is my guess reason I'm having headlight, horn, rear light failure, antilock and fpr issues. Will look into it soon but first get it legal to drive.
There are metal screws into plastic in the tail lamp assemblies that work their way loose. These screws hold wire ring terminals together, so when the screws work loose the connection is intermittent, triggering the failure box. Tighten the screws and the problem goes away for a few years. That's the first thing to check.

Also, I've had to open up my tail lamp sensor box a couple of times over the years and reflow the solder joints. It takes longer to get the thing out than it does to reflow the solder. Try that as well.
 

Abe's 1987

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There are metal screws into plastic in the tail lamp assemblies that work their way loose. These screws hold wire ring terminals together, so when the screws work loose the connection is intermittent, triggering the failure box. Tighten the screws and the problem goes away for a few years. That's the first thing to check.

Also, I've had to open up my tail lamp sensor box a couple of times over the years and reflow the solder joints. It takes longer to get the thing out than it does to reflow the solder. Try that as well.
Will diffinantly check up on those.


but before you do any of that, check that all 5 stop bulbs are good.
Already checked on the bulbs. Seems to be ok.


I also found out our supras uses r12. Damn I gotta find someone who can charge my a/c system now.