Full 3" exhaust install

GilTheArtist

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#1
I wanted to write here what i would have liked to have known before i jumped under the car.

Parts:

There are 2 rubber donuts holding up the muffler, 2 donuts behind it,
one of those non-donut rubber hangers just before the muffler,
2 more donuts before that,
And 2 more donuts up by the 2nd cat.

The bracket attached to the transmission uses m10×1.25 thread bolts

The heat shields all use standard 10mm bolts.

The O2 sensor studs were seized in the stock elbow, so i used m8x1.25 bolts on the new downpipe.

I was unable to pull the whole exhaust as one piece, and it was too awkward to crack off the cat bolts while in the installed position.
I first removed all but one of the donuts on the end, then i cracked off all 4 elbow to turbo nuts, letting it sit on the studs.
I then unbolted the bracket on the tramsmission to the downpipe.
Then slowly shifted the weight off the studs to the support bar underneath.
The middle of the exhaust was now low enough to comfortably use a rubber mallot and 2 wrenches to crack off the cat bolts.
After removing the muffler side, the downpipe side easily shifted out with the elbow still attached.

Im using an ebay downpipe and the driftmotion catback. I will update when its all back together
 
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GilTheArtist

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#2
So now that im all finished i want to add my final insights/takeaway.

Starting at the turbo downpipe, the original had a long heatshield held on by 3 clamps, the first of which simultaneously attached to the bracket on the transmission.
This heat shield was impossible to use for the new 3" pipe, the curve was way off and would not sit flush because of the wider diameter.
I did manage to secure the new pipe to the bracket using a large hose clamp, the stock iron clamps were useless at this point.

Next, the double hanger bracket that attaches to the first flange had now shifted position, the passenger side just barely attached to the hanger bracket with the old stretched out donut.
The new 35352 and 35351 donuts were useless. They were way too small by almost a full inch.
The stock toyota donuts are part #90301-36001, and are almost impossible to find now. Luckily mine were in good enough shape to reuse.
The driver side of the flange hanger did not reach the bracket on the transmission mount even using the stock larger donut.
I improvised using some old steel brake line i had lying around, and fashioned a 2 inch length into a hook of sorts, put a little duct tape where it contacted the metal of the bracket, and hooked the other side to the donut on the flange hanger. Then i crimped it to tension using some channel pliers.

The next hanger, which is welded to the chassis on one side and welded to the new pipe on the other side, was a real bitch. Literally a 3.5 inch gap between the 2.
Since this hanger did not use the donut style, it wasnt a hook, just a ball-end rod.
Luckily i had a spare non-donut hanger, i had to drill out the holes bigger to fit, and again i used the crimped brake line method from earlier to bridge the gap and keep the tension.

The next hanger leading up to the muffler is non-existant on the new pipe. I wish i hadnt wasted my time cleaning and painting the hanger bracket for this, perhaps in the future i can weld a hook on here and make use of it.

The last hangers at the end of the muffler are the only ones i didnt have any trouble with, however, again, the new donuts were useless, they caused the large muffler to rub on the bumper and probably would be a major problem after lowering the car off the jack.
I used 2 stock donuts here and besides having to bend a corner of the heat shield for clearance, there were no other issues.

I hope this helps someone, little things like this made a simple job take 2 full days of research and problem solving on the fly.
But its on now and i definitely feel the difference, i was surprised when i took off the stock elbow and realized the wastegate is completely blocked off. There is way less choking and resistance now.

As far as fuel cut, it didnt happen on the test drive, but i havnt gone freeway speeds yet or greater, but ill update once i do. I can only assume the other people posting about getting fuel cut after going 3 inch messed up something else along the way.
 

GilTheArtist

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#3
4 minutes ago · #5
Oh and as for the sound, with the baffle installed, at idle its actually very close if not the same volume as the stock sound.
With the baffle out at idle, its noticeably louder but not 'paranoid of getting pulled over' loud.
Im very happy with the sound, one of my biggest worries before doing this was that it would end up sounding like some queer honda exhaust, but its very deep and mellow. I love it.
 

plaaya69

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#6
Wow, this is wonderful information!

I was curious though, since the Toyota rubber hanger parts are hard to come by, what do people use when upgrading an exhaust now?

Also, I noticed the Cusco hangers on DM, Can those be used in place of of the Toyota donuts?
(DM Link: https://www.driftmotion.com/Cusco-12mm-Hangar-Blue-p/dm2828.htm)
I went to AutoZone and bought rubber exhaust doughnuts. The are in the isle with the exhaust tips and parts and those replacement doughnuts are just like the oem ones but more easier to work with.
 

loc182

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#7
Thanks for the tip playaa69!

Can anyone else chime in with problems and solutions encountered when installing 3 inch exhausts?
 

plaaya69

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#8
Another tip is to finger tight all the bolts first on all the exhaust piping you are installing and get the rubber hanger parts on and all right angles first before you tighten everything up. I have had to do this to every exhaust kit I have installed so the rear muffler looks nice and straight.

I also like to use copper spray on all exhaust gaskets under the car for a better long term seal.
 
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loc182

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#9
Did you have any trouble with the bracket that sits at the front of the cat? That one looks tough, and the OP mentioned it was a pain. (I am surprised I haven't found other threads mentioning it though.)
 

plaaya69

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#10
It is a tight stretch on that section but I did put new rubber hanger parts on and those and they were much easier to work with compared to the stiffer stock ones. On that section I also started with the body bracket first and did the transmission side last.

Another tip is if you are reusing the stock stiff rubber hanger parts, I used a heavy duty Carabiner clip with a large wrench connected and while pulling on that wrench helps to stretch that rubber doughnut out when assembling it.
 

loc182

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#11
Thanks again plaaya!

You had mentioned that you got donuts from Autozone, did you also get the other style of hanger from them as well?
 

plaaya69

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#12
Thanks again plaaya!

You had mentioned that you got donuts from Autozone, did you also get the other style of hanger from them as well?
I bought this style:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RHR7-1-1-4...-Grommet-Hanger-Bushing-Support-/182568958213

and I bought one of this style to connect on the transmission exhaust mount:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Holes-Exhaust-Mount-Rubber-Insulator-Grommet-Hanger-Bushing-1-2-Rod-Support/153049920933?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=7cbf7637c08345f5a1b18c11488bc1a5&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=182568958213&itm=153049920933&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Both of these styles I bought from AutoZone but I also have a aftermarket test pipe with different style hangers in place so that makes a difference. Personally I would just compare the oem ones but I know the common one was the o-ring style on my old exhaust.
 

loc182

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#13
I also like to use copper spray on all exhaust gaskets under the car for a better long term seal.
I ended up getting the copper gasket maker because I forgot that you said spray. Do you think I should return this and get the spray instead?

Donuts.JPG

Donuts are definitely best bought online, no store had more than two, so I ended up visiting four Autozones :p
 

plaaya69

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#14
I ended up getting the copper gasket maker because I forgot that you said spray. Do you think I should return this and get the spray instead?

View attachment 82136

Donuts are definitely best bought online, no store had more than two, so I ended up visiting four Autozones :p
Looks like you bought up the remaining stock of those exhaust donuts ;)

I do not have any experience with the copper gasket maker but I know the spray works amazing with two tacky coats on each side.
 

loc182

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#15
Installation ongoing, quick question.

The lower engine side bolt of the hot side of the turbo. How does one tighten it when installing a DP with no elbow? I cannot get a socket on it. Thinking I will try from below with a wrench next.

Would also like any advice on position issues. Muffler is just a bit off, so it could hit the heat shield.
 
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plaaya69

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#16
Installation ongoing, quick question.

The lower engine side bolt of the hot side of the turbo. How does one tighten it when installing a DP with no elbow? I cannot get a socket on it. Thinking I will try from below with a wrench next.

Would also like any advice on position issues. Muffler is just a bit off, so it could hit the heat shield.
I use a regular craftsman 14mm wrench on the closed end side for those nuts but I can get it from the top. You should also look into stubby wrenches which work good for something like this.
 

loc182

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#17
Thanks plaaya, I know what I am looking for tomorrow! (Oddly enough my wrench is a Craftsman, I was wondering if a crow's foot might help.)

Happily after loosening everything and using the thinner AM double hole hanger at the bracket the muffler is now where I want it! Torquing things to 32 almost killed me. Next time gotta find a lift!
 
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