Full 3" exhaust install

GilTheArtist

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#1
I wanted to write here what i would have liked to have known before i jumped under the car.

Parts:

There are 2 rubber donuts holding up the muffler, 2 donuts behind it,
one of those non-donut rubber hangers just before the muffler,
2 more donuts before that,
And 2 more donuts up by the 2nd cat.

The bracket attached to the transmission uses m10×1.25 thread bolts

The heat shields all use standard 10mm bolts.

The O2 sensor studs were seized in the stock elbow, so i used m8x1.25 bolts on the new downpipe.

I was unable to pull the whole exhaust as one piece, and it was too awkward to crack off the cat bolts while in the installed position.
I first removed all but one of the donuts on the end, then i cracked off all 4 elbow to turbo nuts, letting it sit on the studs.
I then unbolted the bracket on the tramsmission to the downpipe.
Then slowly shifted the weight off the studs to the support bar underneath.
The middle of the exhaust was now low enough to comfortably use a rubber mallot and 2 wrenches to crack off the cat bolts.
After removing the muffler side, the downpipe side easily shifted out with the elbow still attached.

Im using an ebay downpipe and the driftmotion catback. I will update when its all back together
 
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GilTheArtist

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#2
So now that im all finished i want to add my final insights/takeaway.

Starting at the turbo downpipe, the original had a long heatshield held on by 3 clamps, the first of which simultaneously attached to the bracket on the transmission.
This heat shield was impossible to use for the new 3" pipe, the curve was way off and would not sit flush because of the wider diameter.
I did manage to secure the new pipe to the bracket using a large hose clamp, the stock iron clamps were useless at this point.

Next, the double hanger bracket that attaches to the first flange had now shifted position, the passenger side just barely attached to the hanger bracket with the old stretched out donut.
The new 35352 and 35351 donuts were useless. They were way too small by almost a full inch.
The stock toyota donuts are part #90301-36001, and are almost impossible to find now. Luckily mine were in good enough shape to reuse.
The driver side of the flange hanger did not reach the bracket on the transmission mount even using the stock larger donut.
I improvised using some old steel brake line i had lying around, and fashioned a 2 inch length into a hook of sorts, put a little duct tape where it contacted the metal of the bracket, and hooked the other side to the donut on the flange hanger. Then i crimped it to tension using some channel pliers.

The next hanger, which is welded to the chassis on one side and welded to the new pipe on the other side, was a real bitch. Literally a 3.5 inch gap between the 2.
Since this hanger did not use the donut style, it wasnt a hook, just a ball-end rod.
Luckily i had a spare non-donut hanger, i had to drill out the holes bigger to fit, and again i used the crimped brake line method from earlier to bridge the gap and keep the tension.

The next hanger leading up to the muffler is non-existant on the new pipe. I wish i hadnt wasted my time cleaning and painting the hanger bracket for this, perhaps in the future i can weld a hook on here and make use of it.

The last hangers at the end of the muffler are the only ones i didnt have any trouble with, however, again, the new donuts were useless, they caused the large muffler to rub on the bumper and probably would be a major problem after lowering the car off the jack.
I used 2 stock donuts here and besides having to bend a corner of the heat shield for clearance, there were no other issues.

I hope this helps someone, little things like this made a simple job take 2 full days of research and problem solving on the fly.
But its on now and i definitely feel the difference, i was surprised when i took off the stock elbow and realized the wastegate is completely blocked off. There is way less choking and resistance now.

As far as fuel cut, it didnt happen on the test drive, but i havnt gone freeway speeds yet or greater, but ill update once i do. I can only assume the other people posting about getting fuel cut after going 3 inch messed up something else along the way.
 

GilTheArtist

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#3
4 minutes ago · #5
Oh and as for the sound, with the baffle installed, at idle its actually very close if not the same volume as the stock sound.
With the baffle out at idle, its noticeably louder but not 'paranoid of getting pulled over' loud.
Im very happy with the sound, one of my biggest worries before doing this was that it would end up sounding like some queer honda exhaust, but its very deep and mellow. I love it.
 

plaaya69

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#6
Wow, this is wonderful information!

I was curious though, since the Toyota rubber hanger parts are hard to come by, what do people use when upgrading an exhaust now?

Also, I noticed the Cusco hangers on DM, Can those be used in place of of the Toyota donuts?
(DM Link: https://www.driftmotion.com/Cusco-12mm-Hangar-Blue-p/dm2828.htm)
I went to AutoZone and bought rubber exhaust doughnuts. The are in the isle with the exhaust tips and parts and those replacement doughnuts are just like the oem ones but more easier to work with.
 
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