Fresh build problems! Need help

shadowman1977

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#1
Hey all. So I’m a tech, but this is my first ground up restore.
It is now all together, bought it not running.
I know before I pulled the motor and trans. that the clutch worked and I could run thru all the gears smoothly. During the restore, trans. sat drained and wrapped, tailshaft facing up, for 2 years.
New clutch and parts, fidanza aluminum flywheel, slave and cylinder. Bled the system. Than visually insured clutch plate moves with pedal... about 2,3 16’s of an inch.
So my problem is the shift gate is in neutral but wont go into any gears on the floor or in the air. When I turn the crank frowards the wheels go in reverse. And when I press the cluth pedal with the car on the floor it wont roll.
And I just got to the point where I was able to turn the key and give it a few spins to circulate the new fluids and was hoping the trans would pop out of fucked, got 4 seconds and the starter died. Bench tested it bad solonoid. FML! Waiting for a re-built.
I don’t know what to do at this point, any info would be greatly appreciated.
I am at my wits end and super frustrated. Got so much in this car in time and cash it’s nuts.....but I love it.
 
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hvyman

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#2
Pull trans. Reverse idler gear dropped down while it was standing on end.

Can try tipping it tail shaft down and bell housing up and see if it will pop out. Or pull tail shaft housing and pull it out.
 

shadowman1977

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#3
Pull trans. Reverse idler gear dropped down while it was standing on end.

Can try tipping it tail shaft down and bell housing up and see if it will pop out. Or pull tail shaft housing and pull it out.
I’ve had the tailshaft housing off and felt like a monkey with a wrench. Don’t know what I’m looking at...
 

shadowman1977

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#4
I’ve had the tailshaft housing off and felt like a monkey with a wrench. Don’t know what I’m looking at...
I guess I’m going to have to pull the motor and transmission out dammit!
Just got all my wiring and hoses done. Might as well order the rebuild kit for $122 and send it to the tranny shop. :(
 

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plaaya69

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#6
You might be better off just droping the trans instead or pulling the motor and trans together if you have everything else connected and buttoned up. I had to do this with the front jacked up and droping the trans on a floor jack to diagnosis a front trans leak. Just have some long extensions and a swivel socket adapter for the bell housing bolts rear starter bolts.
 

shadowman1977

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#7
You might be better off just droping the trans instead or pulling the motor and trans together if you have everything else connected and buttoned up. I had to do this with the front jacked up and droping the trans on a floor jack to diagnosis a front trans leak. Just have some long extensions and a swivel socket adapter for the bell housing bolts rear starter bolts.
How hard do you think it’s gonna be to line it back up and get the pin for the fork in place? It took me and another guy to get them together with a tranny stand and hoist....smh
 

plaaya69

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#8
How hard do you think it’s gonna be to line it back up and get the pin for the fork in place? It took me and another guy to get them together with a tranny stand and hoist....smh
I did not have any issues with the fork for the clutch and I did not have to remove the pin. The fork just pulls right out and pushes back in through the inspection cover once you remove the slave cylinder but some channel locks or pliers help pull it out easier.
 

cinderMK3

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#9
^ This Lol, before I knEw that fork just pulled out I use to fight and bitch getting that E-clip and pin out, boy did I feel like an idiot when I read the TSRM
 

shadowman1977

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#12
Anyway, I’m realizing the clutch disengagement issue is another problem. When I pulled the inspection cover off I watched the clutch plate move about 2 or 3/32 of an inch when my buddy was pressing the clutch in. The other problem is the clutch pedal seems to stay down after two or three presses. But I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder. I don’t know if this has to do with pedal angle adjustment because I did throw that out by accident. And the adjustment nut is almost at full extension. It completely came apart while I was trying to take the slack out. (Two separate adjustments)
LOL I’m still learning....
 

hvyman

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#13
There’s a hole on the bottom of the which you should be able to stick your finger in and move the reverse gear back. It’s the small straight toothed gear on inside the main case.

Also you need about 3/4-1” of pedal free play
 

shadowman1977

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#14
There’s a hole on the bottom of the which you should be able to stick your finger in and move the reverse gear back. It’s the small straight toothed gear on inside the main case.

Also you need about 3/4-1” of pedal free play
Thank you for your info and time.
I’m confused by your instructions tho. Are you talking about the gears assessable after removing the tailshaft case?
 

shadowman1977

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#15
There’s a hole on the bottom of the which you should be able to stick your finger in and move the reverse gear back. It’s the small straight toothed gear on inside the main case.

Also you need about 3/4-1” of pedal free play
You were right I got it through the drain plug hole! I really really can’t thank you enough for this so I want to give you something. Send me your email or PayPal. Thanks again
 

debrucer

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#20
Wel

Well just to clarify I drained the gear oil and went in thru the drain hole, long flat head, slid right back were it belonged!! :)
Thanks! I will keep that procedure in mind. I will be in the garage this week installing rings, pistons, bottom-end, and don't know if I'll play the the tranny; but, I definitely want to determine if I have this problem before getting as far along as you.