For Speaker Sizes and Questions Click Here

kunfusion

New Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Feb 17, 2008
Messages
24
Location
Indiana
So far, creeping through SupraForums.... I've been reading the Mk IV use, 2in Tweeter - 4in Door speakers - 6.5in Rear speakers I'll update this with more details if possible.
 

Sside

New Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
554
Location
Houston
Anyone got pictures of the modifications they did to fit bigger speakers on the front, rear, and the speakers under the hatch pillars in the back?
I'm going to be looking into modification of the front speakers real soon ( to install bigger ones) , stay tuned because most likely a write up is coming.... :)
 

Bogwon

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Messages
452
Location
Bremerton, WA
Just read this whole thread and would like to replace the stock door speakers in my 87. I don't have the 91-92 door pods but I'd like to get some of the polk db series speakers. Am I stuck with the 401s since I have the pre 91 door pods or will the 501s fit? Thank in advance!
 

Bogwon

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Messages
452
Location
Bremerton, WA
Went ahead with the 501s as I'd be able to put them in the rears if they didn't fit in the front but they're an exact fit for the door speakers and they sound really good compared to the blown stocks that were in there... :p
 
  • Like
Reactions: sinistar_xx

te72

Classifieds Moderator
Staff member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Mar 26, 2006
Messages
6,614
Location
WHYoming
Just read this whole thread and would like to replace the stock door speakers in my 87. I don't have the 91-92 door pods but I'd like to get some of the polk db series speakers. Am I stuck with the 401s since I have the pre 91 door pods or will the 501s fit? Thank in advance!
Went ahead with the 501s as I'd be able to put them in the rears if they didn't fit in the front but they're an exact fit for the door speakers and they sound really good compared to the blown stocks that were in there... :p
Sorry I didn't see this post sooner bud, I'm pretty sure those are the speakers that are currently in my car. Actually I'm pretty sure it's the component version of the 501's. And yes, they fit great. Sorry again that I didn't confirm that thought sooner. :)
 

Silver MK3

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Jan 24, 2011
Messages
1,517
Location
Madison, AL
Would also like to know the modifications involved to fit 5.25 speakers in the front!
It's alot easier to just get the KevinM speaker pods for 6.5" speakers. I have a pair and they are great, and bolt in perfectly. You can even use the factory wiring so no cutting is needed.
 

BabylonDown

New Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Feb 19, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Toronto
It's alot easier to just get the KevinM speaker pods for 6.5" speakers. I have a pair and they are great, and bolt in perfectly. You can even use the factory wiring so no cutting is needed.
Couldn't I just use something like this so I don't have to rewire?

Stereo Wire Harness Toyota Supra 86 87 88 89 90 91 (car radio wiring installation parts)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KL6XFU?ie=UTF8&tag=modilife-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000KL6XFU
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: BigKO

Silver MK3

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Jan 24, 2011
Messages
1,517
Location
Madison, AL

Silver MK3

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Jan 24, 2011
Messages
1,517
Location
Madison, AL
Ahh I see. So in other words, If I want to run any aftermarket speakers I will have to wire them in.
No you actually wont. You can take the original 4" speaker box, take all the screws out so it comes into two pieces and pull the factory wiring out. That will plug into most aftermarket speakers. One side goes to the factory plug in the door and the other side will go to your speaker. I did this along with another guy on here, let me find his thread on it. He had a few pictures with it as well.

EDIT: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?190943-Diamond-Audio-D364.5-Install
 

BabylonDown

New Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Feb 19, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Toronto
No you actually wont. You can take the original 4" speaker box, take all the screws out so it comes into two pieces and pull the factory wiring out. That will plug into most aftermarket speakers. One side goes to the factory plug in the door and the other side will go to your speaker. I did this along with another guy on here, let me find his thread on it. He had a few pictures with it as well.

EDIT: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?190943-Diamond-Audio-D364.5-Install
Alright. I'll have to go to the car and take a look at the plug your mentioning. Been nearly two years since I worked on the Supra, but I'm determined to get it done this spring. :D
 

sinistar_xx

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
197
This might be a dumb question, but is the factory '89 head unit powerful enough to drive the aftermarket speakers mentioned in this thread? E.g., Polk DB501 or any other modern coaxial type? I plan to keep the ancient factory radio in my '89, but the speakers could definitely be upgraded. I don't want to add a separate amp either. And the last time I overhauled a car stereo system on my own, which was many years ago on my '89 4Runner, I remember the aftermarket speakers basically didn't work until I wired in a separate amp as well.

Edit: is there a max wattage range I should consider for use with the factory head unit?
 
Last edited:

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
2,114
Location
Victoria, BC, Canada
Most head units will power those speakers, just not well.

With all the new tech in car audio, it's actually rather inexpensive to add a multi channel amp. You can even run an amp that accepts line-level inputs. That means you can take the speaker output from the stock unit, wire it into the amp, and the amp will recognize the audio and replay it through the amps amplified outputs.

There are also amps that will connect to Bluetooth, so you can hook your phone directly to them. Something like this: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTR104/JBL-GTR-104.html

That one has line level and Bluetooth.
 

sinistar_xx

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
197
Since I rarely listen to music or anything else while driving anymore, I was convinced I wouldn't bother putting any money or time into upgrading my Supra's audio system, especially because keeping things stock is also a top priority for keeping the car in shape. That said, I have succumbed a bit and started tinkering, so here's my info on replacing the mid-section speakers added next to the rear seats in 89+ Supras.

Replacement speakers
- Rockford Fosgate 3.5" P132 (Punch series). I used these simply because I already had them on hand, as I bought them a few years ago for another car, but never used them.

How do they sound?
- Compared to stock, they are an improvement. Overall, just acceptable.
- I installed just one at first, leaving the stock speaker in place, then played some music while adjusting the balance to full Right and Left, and Fader to full Rear. At first I was pretty disappointed, because the P132 sounded about the same as the stock speaker, then I realized I had the Bass level still at zero. Once I turned that up to to max, the P132 had a noticeable improvement, while the stock speaker sounded about the same. Of course, these small speakers will always sound like crap just on their own.
- I didn't realize until everything was done that the stock speakers are 8 ohms, while the P132s are 4 ohms (so are the popular choice of Polk DB501s, btw). From a sound perspective, this does not seem to be a problem so far. Later on I will be replacing the front and rear-most sets with the DB501s, so hopefully the head unit (Factory Toyota AD6803 86120-08110 from 98-01 MYs) can drive them all well enough?
- EDIT: I checked the Toyota external amp that I installed with the newer head unit and it appears to be rated for 4 ohm speakers, so I should be good with 4 ohm speakers all around.

How do they fit?
- They will fit into the stock brackets, but a tad tighter than the stock speakers. They will still seat into the bracket well enough without much effort though.
- Only two mounting points on the P132s vs the stock speakers, but that's enough.
- Unlike the rear-most stock speakers, which have removable speaker wires, the mid speaker connectors are soldered to the speaker terminals. It's easy enough to remove them with a soldering iron and re-solder them to the P132s. Note that it's a bit hard to see, but the stock speaker terminals ARE labeled + and - for positive and negative, so you can figure out which wire goes where on the new speaker.

Stock speaker mounted:

stock mid speaker.jpg

Rear of stock speaker:

stock mid speaker rear info.jpg

Stock speaker terminal positive and negative, with red arrow on positive:

stock mid speaker positive negative terminals.jpg

P132 mounted #1:

rockford fosgate replacement mid speaker.jpg

P132 mounted #2:

rockford fosgate mounted mid speaker.jpg
 
Last edited:

sinistar_xx

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
197
Finished replacing door speakers and rear hatch area speakers with Polk DB501s.

Notes:
  • I swapped in the Polk DB501 speakers for both the doors and the rear-most speakers.
  • Polk DB501 speakers are discontinued, and it seems whatever "new" sets you get at this point are old stock, and also problematic. If you look at the Amazon reviews, there's a lot of complaints about how the surround ring is not properly glued to the mounting plate, and it produces an awful rattle when active as the ring is loosely bouncing around. Unfortunately, both sets I got had this problem. Given that it seemed likely that any replacements I sought out would have the same problem, and that I want to get this sorted for an upcoming road trip, I decided to try and fix the issue. I used Loctite GO2 Gel adhesive, available from Home Depot, as it had qualities that seemed most appropriate. You can see in the pic in this thread that I was able to get a pretty nice bead of the stuff around the surround ring, and after letting it cure for about 20 hours, I tested them out in the car and that issue was resolved to my satisfaction.
  • The door speakers in my '89 look like aftermarket speakers, but I do believe they are in fact OEM. The service history I have says the original owner had Toyota replace all the speakers around 18 years ago or so, and I think these are what they put in. Still skeptical, I searched online, and there is an eBay listing for '89 door speakers that look exactly the same. However, there isn't a Toyota-type part number on the back, but EAS-10PX2460, 15W, 4 ohm, Japan. And they looked better than they sounded, but when I gently poked at the foam surround, it tore away easily.
  • Additionally, the door speakers I replaced seem to be the exact same size as the 5" DB501s, which is interesting because stock door speakers are supposed to be 4" until the 6.5" upgrade in 91-92 models.
  • There is no need to snip the mounting holes on the DB501 speakers for door replacements, but as others have noted, you will need to do so for the rear boxes. Otherwise, these speakers are pretty much a direct fit for both locations.
  • Since the original foam was deteriorated, I found some 1/2" x 1/2" adhesive foam weather stripping on Amazon to use as a replacement. Used Goo Gone to get rid of the old stuff to get a clean surface first.
  • HOW IS THE SOUND? While it's an improvement over the stock speakers I replaced, it's overall just okay. Not especially impressed, to be honest. I tested different music from the tape player, CD player, and radio. The Black Sabbath tape I was playing actually sounds really good. Yet, when playing music from the CD player or FM radio, the speakers sound kind of cheap. Depends on the song, as some sound okay and there are clean sounds across the frequency range, but other songs make the sound system sound like cheap Pep Boys stuff. IMO a subwoofer is required to complete the sound, and it would help mask the lesser qualities of this setup as well. The DB501s are rated for 65Hz on the low end, but they are definitely not good at delivering the bass.
  • UPDATE: Shortly after creating this post, I tested the audio system while driving on both the street and freeway, and I've determined that for the long term, I consider the sound quality to be unacceptable, at least for what's being pumped out through the doors. Again, I want to keep things as stock as possible, and I'm not sure how I might eventually address this, but I will likely revisit this project in the future to see how I can improve things.

Pics in those post will focus on the door speaker replacements.


Stock '89 door speaker:

1989 supra stock speaker in door passenger.jpg

stock door speaker vs db501_2.jpg

stock door speaker vs db501 bottom labels 2.jpg

Here you can see how the surround ring can pull away from the mounting plate as it was not properly glued down.

db501 defect.jpg

Nicely secured with Loctite GO2 Gel adhesive:

db501 fixed example.jpg
Loctite GO2 gel.jpg

db501 mounted in driver door.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: debrucer

debrucer

It's about the journey
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
496
Location
San Diego, California, United States
Nice write-up. Lots of good pics and comments, but, based on your update...

"UPDATE: Shortly after creating this post, I tested the audio system while driving on both the street and freeway, and I've determined that for the long term, I consider the sound quality to be unacceptable, at least for what's being pumped out through the doors. Again, I want to keep things as stock as possible, and I'm not sure how I might eventually address this, but I will likely revisit this project in the future to see how I can improve things. "

Did you validate the pulse of the speakers to confirm that they are all in sync? I can't speak to the speaker quality but if you have them wired out of sync, you would be displeased. My two cents :)
 

sinistar_xx

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
197
Nice write-up. Lots of good pics and comments, but, based on your update...

"UPDATE: Shortly after creating this post, I tested the audio system while driving on both the street and freeway, and I've determined that for the long term, I consider the sound quality to be unacceptable, at least for what's being pumped out through the doors. Again, I want to keep things as stock as possible, and I'm not sure how I might eventually address this, but I will likely revisit this project in the future to see how I can improve things. "

Did you validate the pulse of the speakers to confirm that they are all in sync? I can't speak to the speaker quality but if you have them wired out of sync, you would be displeased. My two cents :)
Good question, and while it's definitely not beyond me to screw things up, I don't think that's the case here. I didn't validate the pulse, as you put it, but the factory connectors have both wide and narrow female quick slide connectors, which I attached to the corresponding male terminals on the new speakers, so the positive and negative connections should all be correct.

I was thinking that if it's not just the inherent quality of the speakers themselves, maybe the amp I have is just not up to the task? There's no crackling or anything, but maybe they still just need more juice. And if that's the case, just trying to improve with different speakers isn't likely to help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: debrucer

sinistar_xx

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
197
Played around with the settings on the head unit and bringing the Mid down to zero seemed to help slightly. But then, this was while sitting in my driveway where the speakers can pass for acceptable.

I haven't messed around with upgrading car audio for many years, so have been getting back up to speed a bit and reading how higher efficiency speakers can do more with less power -- Crutchfield recommends 90 dB+. Thing is, the DB501s are already spec'd at 93 dB, higher than many other car speakers, a lot of which seem to be in the upper-80s range. So searching for a higher efficiency speaker also does not look like a solution.

When I first installed and tested the 3.5" Rockford Fosgate speakers, I wasn't particularly impressed, but I did think they seemed to be doing their job for what they were. Therefore, I had higher expectations for the 5" DB501s, but was left even less impressed with them.

One thing I'm wondering: The Toyota head unit I installed, even though is has the external Toyota amp, very much seems to be a non-premium head unit, more common in base or mid-level vehicle trims. I'm wondering if an upper-end head unit from a PREMIUM Toyota audio system would put out more power? If I could verify the power output of OEM head units and/or amps, I could be on to something, but there doesn't seem to be any info published on this type of specification. Anyone happen to know, at least in general?
 

debrucer

It's about the journey
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
496
Location
San Diego, California, United States
Good question, and while it's definitely not beyond me to screw things up, I don't think that's the case here. I didn't validate the pulse, as you put it, but the factory connectors have both wide and narrow female quick slide connectors, which I attached to the corresponding male terminals on the new speakers, so the positive and negative connections should all be correct.

I was thinking that if it's not just the inherent quality of the speakers themselves, maybe the amp I have is just not up to the task? There's no crackling or anything, but maybe they still just need more juice. And if that's the case, just trying to improve with different speakers isn't likely to help.
There's a way to test but a quick query started talking about bluetooth wireless and digressed from there. I believe it's more than pos-pos and neg-to-negative thing, but the phase the speaker membrane is in... all moving up at the same time, all moving down at the same time. My dash is still out and I've not got electricity in the cabin yet, so I can't test it either. I know it can be checked without being able to see it, too, but I don't remember exactly how to force the sound to make that determination. I presume it's volume and you turn it up until sound is heard, and there's a distinction between the up vs. down sound. Starting to sound far-fetched now. It was just an idea :)

Try this link. family watching TV now, so can't listen, but I think I've heard him explain it before

 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: sinistar_xx

sinistar_xx

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
197
Yeah, I am familiar with the speaker phase factor being important. But unlike the 3.5" speakers, which had the same size terminals for both + and -, the connectors for the doors and rear are differently sized, so unless things somehow got chopped up and reversed farther upstream, it's pretty hard to mix up the positive and negative in those locations.

I guess I will just have to deal with the status quo for my upcoming little road trip. Ironically, I think I had better car audio quality in the crappier cars I drove on road trips back in the '90s. Of course, I also did stuff like cut out holes in the door panels to mount the speakers. That very much makes me cringe now. :/
 
  • Like
Reactions: debrucer

3p141592654

90T
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
4,226
Location
Thousand Oaks, CA
I was also completely unhappy with the sound from my upgraded speakers. I put 6.5" separates in the doors and replaced the 3.5 and 4.5 speakers in the rear and it was lacking to say the least. What finally did the trick was a spare tire subwoofer from a Nissan Murano with a separate amp, and a Pioneer NEX head unit with an automatic equalization microphone. After running the equalization routine with the microphone at the drivers headrest I finally had a system that sounds great. There is just no bass available without the subwoofer no matter how much you spend on the door and rear speakers.

The subwoofer installs in the spare tire so it is out of sight and doesn't disturb the look of the car. Some more info here.


and the NEX install is here

 
Last edited: