Figgie's build: Project Rodknox

figgie

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Man, just when i think i won't find some other gem

20200418_152944_copy_1287x2336.jpg

This is the "Alternator" that was installed. My best guess is that it is a chevy alternator but there are no marking anywhere save for a weather pack connector for the sense wires.

I remember when it happened as the electrical system went low voltage and then that unmistakable smell of the magic electrical smoke.

I am in the middle of laying all the stuff out for the wiring project...
 

Piratetip

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Hey you let out the magic smoke.
One section of the diode bridge melted?
 

Piratetip

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Oh what are you going to do with the doors?
Keep the rediculous vertical hinge's?
 

figgie

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About 90% complete on the harness mock up.

20200419_205905_copy_1608x2601.jpg

Completed:
Ignition
Fuel injector
Wideband O2 (CanBus)
Engine speed (crank speed)
Starter
Fuel pressure and fuel temp
Dbw throttle
Water coolant

Left to do:
alternator sense wiring
Knock sensors
Turbo speed

Still undecided on location for;

Oil pressure
Oil temp
Cam sync

Oil pressure and temp are on the exhaust side and i am trying to avoid wiring in that area if at all possible.

I am going to adjust the ems to dash harness as i just really need canbus.

Same goes for GPS

I will probably do the same mockup for power.

Beats using real wire!!!
 

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figgie

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Bosch Motorsports sells a nifty little sensor that can read pressure and temperature, it has an M10 thread. You could use it to remote mount the sensor instead of putting it under the exhaust manifold.

Funny enough, that is the same exact sensors that i got with my ID f750 fuel injector filter.

I might pull it and see if bosch has a pressure only as i am going to be getting Fuel temp from the E85 composition sensor so I just need Pressure.
 

Enraged

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Yes, they have another that the same form factor. That site is good for getting part numbers you can use to get them from the US
 
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figgie

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Been busy with real work and my side gig...wfx motorsports.

Had to model a centering adapter based of a flywheel that i had.

I did the modeling in Autocad 2021

The final 3d print was done by someone locally for 5 dollars.

20200425_203111_copy_1510x1573.jpg

Perfect fit

20200425_202802_copy_1087x1078.jpg

Now i can start working on the transmission adapter template.

Yes lots of parallel work flow.
 
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Piratetip

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Decent quality print.
Pretty amazing the rapid prototyping we can do these days.
 
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figgie

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Decent quality print.
Pretty amazing the rapid prototyping we can do these days.
Yep. I have done cad designs before but chose not to pay for cnc.

The outer part had some finish quality but my concern was the teeth. That could not have any issues and it did not.

Now i can verify fitting and then get it cnc'd if needed. This part is fine in PLA as it will center 1/4" of polycarbonate to make the mount for this transmission. Then i need to do the same thing for the r154 transmission.

Then in autocad, center it and get it the resulting trans adapter 3d printed.

I am shooting for .001 of accuracy on this which is insane that 3d printers can hit it.
 

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Right!
They are amazingly accurate even the fdm ones.
Try a sla or dlp printer next, those are incredible.
 

figgie

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Right!
They are amazingly accurate even the fdm ones.
Try a sla or dlp printer next, those are incredible.
I have seen! Essentially limited to the pixel count of the projector/laser.

Though i noticed that type of printing is limited in volume.
 

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you can get your own for around $250, look up the Phrozen Sonic Mini. The resin can get expensive, but if you want low volume/prototype parts, they can be great. I have an FDM printer and it leaves a lot to be desired, I'll likely upgrade to a resin printer at some point.
 
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figgie

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Slow progress as I am designing a transmission adapter since none exist. Got the transmission done, now I need the R154 to get the engine side and center point.

transadapter.jpg
 

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for that, I'd suggest looking around for someone local with a CNC router. Get it cut out of 3/4" MDF. It'll likely be a lot cheaper than 3d printing (due to the size). I found a local shop to cut some ignition coil valley covers for me, and it was a ton cheaper than paying a proper machine shop.
 

figgie

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for that, I'd suggest looking around for someone local with a CNC router. Get it cut out of 3/4" MDF. It'll likely be a lot cheaper than 3d printing (due to the size). I found a local shop to cut some ignition coil valley covers for me, and it was a ton cheaper than paying a proper machine shop.
i actually have a couple of people that have 3d printer.

One person printed this part for me.

View media item 48

size was 1.5 diameter by 4.5 inches tall.

$5. :D

I have him looking the adapter to see if he can print in 4 pieces. should be fairly inexpensive as he is charging me for filament only.
 

figgie

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wowser… looks like lots of parts to create!

what we have here is an adapter plate to mate the Bosch iBooster electric brake booster to the OEM MKIII Supra OEM Mount.

I have to send it out to 3d print to verify fitment but amazingly, bosch made the iBooster universal. One quick adapter change and it can be used on any car!

MasterBrake_Adapterv2.jpg

r154 transmission will be dropped this weekend.

Of note, Bosch uses the EXACT same threads on their iBooster adapter which Toyota uses on the MKIII Supra. I will have to press to studs out as they are pressed into the holes.

20200512_092037_copy_1846x1723.jpg
 
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figgie

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for everyone wondering,

Toyota OEM MKIII Supra master brake booster is on the bottom

Bosch Ibooster is on top.

20200515_124741.jpg

Lots more room on the ibooster than OEM. Would come in handy for those FFIM folks that way, no need to cut or adjust some FFIM.
 

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But to run this, you need a standalone that can support it? Or is it like some of the electric power steering pumps where if you give them power they will run in a failsafe mode?
 
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figgie

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But to run this, you need a standalone that can support it? Or is it like some of the electric power steering pumps where if you give them power they will run in a failsafe mode?
My guess is that it has to run failsafe otherwise a communication fail will lead to unassisted brakes.

The other related item would be in failsafe it will be at maximum assist to the tune of 30 amps. Ideally it should ramp up oe run at a predetermined rate but that would require the correct canbus messsages.
 
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3p141592654

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Looks nice. Wouldn't the assist current be proportional to the pedal pressure? I'm not clear what the SPI interface does here. One thought would be to allow hill hold and braking at rest like on a tesla.
 
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figgie

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Looks nice. Wouldn't the assist current be proportional to the pedal pressure? I'm not clear what the SPI interface does here. One thought would be to allow hill hold and braking at rest like on a tesla.
It should but i think in failsafe, it would just go to full power assist at all times instead of ramp up.

The hill hold on the tesla uses the electronic parking brake instead of the ibooster.

The ibooster is used for the tesla autopilot along with radar based cruise control on most cadillacs, bmw, Mercedes-Benz, audi etc. Of course this is in addition to the basic braking function.

Without the correct canbus messages, it drops to fail safe.

Ideally, it would be nice to program the functions but most of the new tech is encrypted with rsa 1024 bit keys and Bosch is not keen on helping non-OEM's with this unfortunately.
 

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Wow, they encrypt the interface. I guess that is to be expected.
Actually Tesla uses the regular brakes for the hold function. You can feel the pedal move when it engages, and the parking brake is too slow and grabby to work for the hold feature.
 
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figgie

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Wow, they encrypt the interface. I guess that is to be expected.
Actually Tesla uses the regular brakes for the hold function. You can feel the pedal move when it engages, and the parking brake is too slow and grabby to work for the hold feature.
Intresting,

BMW, Lexus, Audi and MB use the electric control on the rear brakes

Here is the picture of the rear brake calipers on the Model 3, Model S have the same thing (at least 2016+).

1589985915617.png

the black portion is the electric parking brake which is used for hill hold but uses the brakes (via gear reduction).
What you are feeling is this applying the brake pressure on the pads since it is not an independent system.
We had a lexus and i remember that enabling the parking brake would do what you are describing.

Now i recall that the initial batch of Model S had a separate caliper for the parking brakes

1589987435831.png




.
 
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figgie

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I haven't updated this in a while. I am still waiting on a 3D printer that i ordered in May. My guess it is stuck in customs or quarantined. I need the printer to prototype some parts before getting them machined (brake master cylinder adapter, transmission adapter).

But now comes the part i enjoy the most.

Digital power distribution.
Specifically a MoTeC PDM32.

20200709_182536_copy_2383x1717.jpg

NEXT: I will have to mock up the power design for the car. I already have power count for the needed parts to get the motor running (sensors, wideband, ems), dash, rear sensor inputs, dual half bridges for the rear, transmission & tcu power, some accesories like brake lights, turn signals, headlights and ac.

Still left:

GPS for vehicle speed.
Removal of the R154 transmission and all related components (flywheel, clutch, pedal etc)
Driveshaft
All fuel delivery components (lines. Filters, pumps).
3d print parts (curse the rona!)
Big puzzle folks!
 

figgie

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Ok. I must have been drunk. Posted in the wrong thread!

After 3 months, the 3d printer has finally arrived!

It has bed leveling function. 1 extruder,
Build volume of 500mm x 500mm x 600mm.

This is just a calibration cube.
The machine is true.
Now to print the ABS adapter for the ibooster electric master cylinder.

Material of choice will be PETG.

20200904_161055.jpg
 
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well I'll repost my post here for clarity:

Nice! What are you planning on printing? ABS, PLA, PTEG? If you want to print under hood parts, I've been reading about people getting good results with Apollo-X filament and Prusament PC Blend. And if you don't have one already, get a bed level sensor. I bought a BLTouch to install.

I have an FDM printer (Ordbot Hardron) that I'm rebuilding with all new electronics and extruder, and I recently bought an Elegoo Mars resin printer. The resin printer is awesome for detail, but I'm having some warping issues I need to figure out. Also, resin is very expensive compared to filament.
 

figgie

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well I'll repost my post here for clarity:

Nice! What are you planning on printing? ABS, PLA, PTEG? If you want to print under hood parts, I've been reading about people getting good results with Apollo-X filament and Prusament PC Blend. And if you don't have one already, get a bed level sensor. I bought a BLTouch to install.

I have an FDM printer (Ordbot Hardron) that I'm rebuilding with all new electronics and extruder, and I recently bought an Elegoo Mars resin printer. The resin printer is awesome for detail, but I'm having some warping issues I need to figure out. Also, resin is very expensive compared to filament.
I am using PETG.

I did the print but it was a fail, the part ended leaning so I am slowing print speed AND travel speed and trying again.
 

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Yup, worst part of the FDM printers is the tuning. What machine did you buy?

I'm currently using my resin printer to print crap I don't need, but is neat:
 
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figgie

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Here is the stair stepping
20200908_145054.jpg

I stopped it.

Well, it turns out is was how i routed the cables up top.

The black cable guide was jamming itself up against the pulley guide on the left side.

20200908_145351.jpg

So I rearranged the cable guide, that should address that problem.

This is a tronxy 5sa-500-pro.
 
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