Figgie's build: Project Rodknox

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
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if you bought a plug and play, yes (well at least for the yellow plugs, I'm not sure about the grey ones).

I can't recall off the top of my head what brand they are (maybe tyco AMP pulse lock?):

I bought some a few years ago to build a patch harness, I'll see if I have any extras if you want them. I bought mine through Mouser I think.
 

Z06gette

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Ive been looking at picking up a V1 for cost savings. I know ecumaster black or classic are also good options.
 

Enraged

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Ha, I have the v1 and am looking at getting the ECUMaster Black. It has more tuning options that I want and modern software, plus I'd like to play with CANbus.
 

figgie

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welll maybe we can figure something out here?
Well i just have the AEMv1 for now. That is getting replaced by a MoteC M1.

i just wanted to see about "e85" and cold start issues that i kept hearing about. So far, no problems starting the car on the v1 and 1120cc/min injectors (except from my own ignorance)

With that said, i had to go over the OEM harness with a fine tooth comb. Paying very special attention to the CPS and it's airgaps. I adjusted the airgaps on the tighter side of the clearance called for in the TSRM.

Other items that i heard people say it can not be done;

I am running cops in the standard OEM configuration (ie waste fire).

I removed the 7MGTE ignition box and did a direct wire of the pins to 2x coils (spliced).

in other words,

i removed the multiplex option which kills tacho btw. But i am still tuning so i use laptop for that.

Removed igniter.
created a very rudimentary harness to get power and ground to the coils.
then pinned as follows

I used the OEM outputs from the AEMv1;

IGT - Coil 1 - Cylinders 1&6
IGA - Coil 2 - Cylinders 2&5
IGB - Coil 3 - Cylinders 3&4

within the software that translates to straight forward timing of

coil 1 - 0 tooth
Coil 2 - 4 tooth
Coil 3 - 8 tooth

Unde the MoTeC, i will be going full sequential for both ignition and fuel.
 
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figgie

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NICE! im watching your build also... will this listing work? I cant tell exact part number..


https://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-EMS-Series1-Plug-Play-Programmable/184082043695?hash=item2adc25132f:g:l1QAAOSwPPxd9U8k
that is an 1800 series.
you need a 30 series OR you need any series and find either a dead 30 series and swap out the daughter board (that has the pins for the ecu).

repinning is a crap shoot and the worse part is that you will have to find the connectors for the 1800 and then wire those into the harness.

asking for trouble when you do that.
 

Z06gette

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For sure that's what I came up with. I'll keep hunting/saving. My motor is at the machine shop so I have to settle up on that first then figure this out.
 

figgie

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which ever route you take, be sure to budget for a true crank trigger and cam ref setup.

the CPS has to much timing drift for high HP applications.
 
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Enraged

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What are you running for crank trigger figgie? I'm getting a 36 tooth trigger wheel cut for my ATI crank pulley. I'll probably go with a slug in a cam gear for cam reference.
 

figgie

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i am going with a 60-2 for crank and a magnet in the cam gear. If i could do the 120-4 i would but acording to all the research, it creates to much information for anything short of OEM ecu.

with that said, i am exploring putting the 60-2 on the timing gear instead of the pulley.
 

Piratetip

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I always thought it was best to run a crank and cam sensor at each location.
If you combine both sensors at the crank or cam it cannot account for the inconsistencies caused by the timing belt.
 

Piratetip

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Ignore my last post.
I misread what you posted, you are already planning on doing both.
 
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figgie

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Ignore my last post.
I misread what you posted, you are already planning on doing both.
Yep
I actually saw something intresting that might actually not need a magnet on the cam gear.
the issue would be space.

long story short, the cam shaft is ferrous and a couple of nissans read the #1 cylinder lobe for their signal. I will have to take measurements and see if that is feasible.

I am all for making it simple.
 
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Piratetip

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Yeah you could possibly use a different section of the camshaft to take a signal.
I think the issue would be a clean signal, something with a square tooth.

What if you machined this nub into a square tooth for signal pickup? (if you have the stock cams)
There is a section of the OEM cam that has 2 180° apart or back farther there is a single it looks like.

Like the 2JZ cams have.

Run a vertical sensor through the top of the cam cover.

Or could possibly weld a small piece of steel to the cam as a pickup. (Have a professional do the weld)


This is something else interesting:
Looks like a hack job but interesting nonetheless.
 

figgie

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yeah i have not investigated much. i will have to see which car i saw that had the reading from the lobe itself. It must have been a hall effect sensor to just be a basic ref signal.

on the crank trigger. that is exactly what i was thinking though i do not like the way the sensor itself was put on there...
 

figgie

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Pre-Christmas update,

So I have been tuning the car in cold start but something has felt off.

So I did some digging in the AEM and started turning off injectors. Injectors #1-5 caused the engine to run rougher but the roughness settled down after I turned them back on. When I get to cylinder #6, there is no change.

Odd, then I recall that after the headgasket, I changed the injector from its #2 spot to #6. If you guys recall, #2 was where the bhg was at.

I took out all injectors and created a quick bench test to make sure all injectors were operating. Sure enough all the injectors except #6 clicked.

Got some ideas from fuel injector clinic but none of them worked.

So thought, what the heck, and got some zep citrus cleaner in a bowl and soaked the injector for about 30 minutes.

Then connected my little hack bench...

Nothing. Odd part is that my power supply was registering the same amperage and wattage as the other injectors. That is odd as I either should read higher or lower if the injector took a dump.

So I almost gave up but then I forgot one very important feature of the power supply, the power supply I am using supplies from 12vdc to 24vdc (I use it for my RC LiFe battery xharger)

So I decided to crank the voltage to 16v.

Eureka! I heard a click!

So then I submerged the injector in the bowl and pulsed it. Started to get louder and louder. Ran some of the cleaner through it and finally, clicking and flow!!!

20191223_200151-3427x1622.jpg

Now to get them flow tested and see if #6 can flow the same.

So now I know, ignition problem, injection failure caused a bhg.
 

figgie

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So thought I put some information on the power supply.

This power supply is an RC power supply for battery chargers or any 12vdc system which happens to be any automotive system.

This particular power supply is adjustable from 12vdc - 24vdc. It is good up to 60Amps and runs off 120vac.

It updates voltage, amperage and watts at a 1 hz update on the built in display.

I bought it through Amain hobbies and has worked great to gather REAL amperage draw on parts like stereos, lights, etc. The other cool part, the price of 289. Less than an lab grade power supply from Seigel etc.

 
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debrucer

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So thought I put some information on the power supply.

This power supply is an RC power supply for battery chargers or any 12vdc system which happens to be any automotive system.

This particular power supply is adjustable from 12vdc - 24vdc. It is good up to 60Amps and runs off 120vac.

It updates voltage, amperage and watts at a 1 hz update on the built in display.

I bought it through Amain hobbies and has worked great to gather REAL amperage draw on parts like stereos, lights, etc. The other cool part, the price of 289. Less than an lab grade power supply from Seigel etc.

I have a bench top supply, too, and probably a dozen stand-along supplies that I have built trying to get my power requirements met.

The hardest requirement I have is for 36 to 40 volts (off a 13.2 volt automotive system) to drive a pair of LED driving lights. My bench top set is usually 0 to 30 volts, but can be jumpered for 0 to 60. Definitely got to get more volts to use these LEDs.

I'm having issues with simple devices though, my dash is to be 3 7" screens, each with a Rasp Pi behind. Even a clean 5 volts at 3 amps has been impossible to achieve cleanly... Rasp Pis stick a flashing lightning bolt on the screen when power is sour.

My bench top supply is indispensable, and I frequently find myself setting power too high :) I've only fried a few things, but sometimes the difference of just a little bit is soooo satisfying :)

Cheers!
 
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figgie

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I have a bench top supply, too, and probably a dozen stand-along supplies that I have built trying to get my power requirements met.

The hardest requirement I have is for 36 to 40 volts (off a 13.2 volt automotive system) to drive a pair of LED driving lights. My bench top set is usually 0 to 30 volts, but can be jumpered for 0 to 60. Definitely got to get more volts to use these LEDs.

I'm having issues with simple devices though, my dash is to be 3 7" screens, each with a Rasp Pi behind. Even a clean 5 volts at 3 amps has been impossible to achieve cleanly... Rasp Pis stick a flashing lightning bolt on the screen when power is sour.

My bench top supply is indispensable, and I frequently find myself setting power too high :) I've only fried a few things, but sometimes the difference of just a little bit is soooo satisfying :)

Cheers!

On the 5v, I actually use a adafruit 5vdc convertor to power my esp32 development boards and neopixel let's.

Super inexpensive and neither the dev board or the led complain.
 
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debrucer

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On the 5v, I actually use a adafruit 5vdc convertor to power my esp32 development boards and neopixel let's.

Super inexpensive and neither the dev board or the led complain.
I've tried several converters including at least one type from Adafruit. They seem to work for my esp devices and various Arduino boards. I wouldn't suspect a problem, except the Pi has this built-in diagnostic... and a flashing lightning bolt on the screen. I suspect it's more an amperage issue than a voltage one. I need six times three amps at 5.1 volts. Most of the devices are basically USB chargers, and getting the full amps for each plug isn't completely in my control with the standard setup. I didn't mean to hijack this thread :) Will start a new one when I get back on this issue.
 

figgie

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Trying to be as transparent as possible.

As you know, I dont like cutting corners and i am a believer in data.

As you can see, here are the FIC injectors. They are supposed to be high-z.

20191226_135133-1621x3426.jpg

I have been back and forth with FIC seeing if they have a replacement incase one of the injectors above took a dive.

Their response...

Fuel Injector Clinic Support said:
Hi Wayne,

I think that may have been a paperwork error, those are certainly the low-z injectors and we do have a handful here still but not many.

Here is the updated part number for that injector, and as you can see the large silver body is low-z:
http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/supra-7m-gte/IS146-1220
Paper work error? If I were to take them at face value and treat the injectors as low-z, that means the ballast resistor is necessary. Thankfully a multimeter resolves this quickly.

It also means if that is an error. The rest of the data is garbage and unreliable.

And that is why I will pay a premium for injector dynamics ANY time of the day as I know Mr. Yaw would have someone's head for an error of that magnitude.
 
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Piratetip

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Agreed.
Fuel injectors are not a part to cheap out on or use parts with questionable data.
 

figgie

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2.6 ohms...

Each injector measured at 2.6 ohms which is exactly 10 ohms from what is on the paperwork (if you look above, the paper reads 12.6 ohms which is a massive error. Not even in the same ball park!

:/
 

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2.6 ohms...

Each injector measured at 2.6 ohms which is exactly 10 ohms from what is on the paperwork (if you look above, the paper reads 12.6 ohms which is a massive error. Not even in the same ball park!

:/
I'd be interested to see if the resistor pack gets them to the same resistance or does it put them at a higher resistance than high impedance, just for curiosity's sake.
 
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figgie

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I'd be interested to see if the resistor pack gets them to the same resistance or does it put them at a higher resistance than high impedance, just for curiosity's sake.
That would be a great thing to know but alas, I made the assumption that the data was correct and chucked the fuel injector resistor pack. I HOPE that I did not fry the AEMv1 injector channel as the oem wiring has two injectors running in parallel which drops the resistance to 1.3 ohms for a total of 9.5 Amps through both injectors!!!
 

A70nut

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That is quite a bit of amperage, but at the same time an injector driver is a pretty durable component on the ecu. I'd say having the resistor pack in there would increase that circuit resistance though and hopefully turn down that current flow a bit. You could always unplug the aem though and measure resistance from the aem connector through the resistor pack to the ground side of the injector just to see for data purposes for piece of mind.
 
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andrew_mx83

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which ever route you take, be sure to budget for a true crank trigger and cam ref setup.

the CPS has to much timing drift for high HP applications.
I do a full CPS delete kit which uses a 36-1 trigger wheel on the front of an ATI pulley with a Ford VR pickup for crank position. Nice beefy bracket for the sensor to maintain a clean signal. Magnet in the intake cam gear for cam sync with a small bracket that bolts in the stock alternator location. You use an M12 threaded hall sensor for the pickup. Also comes with a press in (no bolts) block off for the original CPS.
I dont have it listed on my website but i can dig up some photos if you want.
 
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figgie

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Update February 17, 2020

Sorry for the lack of updates but now it is the slow process portion.

Wiring diagrams, connector inventory but the slowest part, sourcing said connectors.

With that said, here are some typical bosch piezo electric knock sensors with the necessary attachments for the 7mge/gte block.

20200217_091604_copy_3427x1622.jpg

This might actually also work as a full on replacement for the OEM knock sensors with some minor change.

Other items of notes:
Sourcing connectors for American based cars is easy. GM has been using Aptiv (previously known as Delphi) since at least the late 90's and possibly earlier.
Example: connectors for the 2016-2019 CTS-V dbw throttle and accelerator pedal.

Finding information on connectors, much less attempting to source connectors for any none-American car is detective work in the best scenario, nearly impossible in the worse scenario.

Other discoveries:
Fuel injection timing. Through exploration, i discovered that even in batch fire mode, the proper fuel injection timing results in a smoother idle than when injection happens when the valve is opening has opened. During idle the pulse width is sub 2 millisecond with the 1150 cc/min injectors which at 650 rpm. That is an eternity that the valve is held open.

Fuel filter:
Regardless of gas that you use, run a fuel filter. Yes, i know, the MA70 supra has a fuel filter. Toyota calls it a lifetime filter. Does anyone know the actual filtration rating of the OEM filter???

The crap i found in the Fuel injector clinic injector filter baskets definitely points to why injectors got clogged up. I would even recommend replacing the Toyota OEM fuel filter with a fuel filter of known filtration size ( bosch specification calls for 87% filtration at 5 micron, 100% filtration at 35 micron to protect the fuel injectors long term).

Incase anyone has not seen what i am talking about...

20200217_093247_copy_1850x2428.jpg
These are fuel injector filter baskets. These specifically are now stainless mesh.

The one you see loose is a new one (yes, i replaced the one in the injector also).

The one i removed was clogged with debris but i can imagine what got through. :( other part is, the mesh looks like some plastic of sorts. The frame is definitely plastic composite.
 
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figgie

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So my fiurther contribution to the supra world.

20200221_201437_copy_1883x1765.jpg

20200221_201510_copy_1280x1386.jpg

The connector is a te junior timer connector.

Connector:
Part #: 282189-1

Receptacle (socket):
Part #: 2-929939-1
Wire size (awg): 17-20

Seal:
Part #: 8228904-1
Color: Blue

This connector also applies to ANY injector with the EV1 connector.

This is just one of many connectors that i have sourced. My list is currently on engine as i am designing my harness.
 
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figgie

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Finally the weather is not freezing!

So time to do what I do best...

I removed the main engine harness (not for sale as it is a train wreck!!!).

And surgically removed the cps wiring which amazingly was not hacked to death.

20200306_160849_copy_954x2016.jpg 20200306_161003_copy_954x2016.jpg 20200306_161012_copy_1240x2620.jpg 20200306_161016_copy_1431x3024.jpg 20200306_161115_copy_954x2016.jpg
Also rare is that the wire is not brittle, the shielding is completely intact.

Here is what is left of the harness

20200306_192824_copy_954x2016.jpg

And finally, the AEM is removed. Here it is on the bench getting the original AEM start up calibration for the supra.

20200306_184454_copy_2016x954.jpg

20200306_184512_copy_3024x1431.jpg 20200306_190814_copy_3225x1526.jpg

Funny enough, i have been using a Windows 10 laptop with a usb to db9 serial adapter without any communication issues..go figure.

All this stuff is for sale!
 

figgie

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Well tiny update

I ended up selling my AEM Tru time adjustable cam gears.

20200312_111227_copy_3024x1431.jpg

And then i scored these

20200314_212228_copy_954x2016.jpg SmartSelect_20200309-110223_Facebook.jpg SmartSelect_20200309-110212_Facebook.jpg SmartSelect_20200309-110200_Facebook.jpg

Price paid..110 shipped.

With all that is going on in the crazy world. It is time to build the engine harness!
 

Piratetip

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Cool!
Now where the heck did you possibly score those from? :D
Yahoo auctions Japan?
 

Piratetip

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Haha, nice.
I'll never see that stuff.
 

figgie

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Haha, nice.
I'll never see that stuff.
It was just pure luck. I recognized them and the price was right so i pulled trigger.

So those gears will be showing under the ATI clear cover.

Next posts are going to be harness design. As i got all the connectors sourced (what a time sink!)