Well i just have the AEMv1 for now. That is getting replaced by a MoteC M1.welll maybe we can figure something out here?
that is an 1800 series.NICE! im watching your build also... will this listing work? I cant tell exact part number..
YepIgnore my last post.
I misread what you posted, you are already planning on doing both.
I have a bench top supply, too, and probably a dozen stand-along supplies that I have built trying to get my power requirements met.So thought I put some information on the power supply.
This power supply is an RC power supply for battery chargers or any 12vdc system which happens to be any automotive system.
This particular power supply is adjustable from 12vdc - 24vdc. It is good up to 60Amps and runs off 120vac.
It updates voltage, amperage and watts at a 1 hz update on the built in display.
I bought it through Amain hobbies and has worked great to gather REAL amperage draw on parts like stereos, lights, etc. The other cool part, the price of 289. Less than an lab grade power supply from Seigel etc.
ProTek RC EV-Peak PJ1 eCube 1360W Power Supply w/USB Port (12-24V/60A/1360W) [EVPF1209] | Cars & TrucksThe ProTek R/C EV Peak PJ1 eCube 1360W Power Supply is an incredibly powerful 1360W, dual output, 60A power supply that is a great choice for your high... EVPF1209www.amainhobbies.com
I have a bench top supply, too, and probably a dozen stand-along supplies that I have built trying to get my power requirements met.
The hardest requirement I have is for 36 to 40 volts (off a 13.2 volt automotive system) to drive a pair of LED driving lights. My bench top set is usually 0 to 30 volts, but can be jumpered for 0 to 60. Definitely got to get more volts to use these LEDs.
I'm having issues with simple devices though, my dash is to be 3 7" screens, each with a Rasp Pi behind. Even a clean 5 volts at 3 amps has been impossible to achieve cleanly... Rasp Pis stick a flashing lightning bolt on the screen when power is sour.
My bench top supply is indispensable, and I frequently find myself setting power too high I've only fried a few things, but sometimes the difference of just a little bit is soooo satisfying
I've tried several converters including at least one type from Adafruit. They seem to work for my esp devices and various Arduino boards. I wouldn't suspect a problem, except the Pi has this built-in diagnostic... and a flashing lightning bolt on the screen. I suspect it's more an amperage issue than a voltage one. I need six times three amps at 5.1 volts. Most of the devices are basically USB chargers, and getting the full amps for each plug isn't completely in my control with the standard setup. I didn't mean to hijack this thread Will start a new one when I get back on this issue.On the 5v, I actually use a adafruit 5vdc convertor to power my esp32 development boards and neopixel let's.
Super inexpensive and neither the dev board or the led complain.
Paper work error? If I were to take them at face value and treat the injectors as low-z, that means the ballast resistor is necessary. Thankfully a multimeter resolves this quickly.Fuel Injector Clinic Support said:Hi Wayne,
I think that may have been a paperwork error, those are certainly the low-z injectors and we do have a handful here still but not many.
Here is the updated part number for that injector, and as you can see the large silver body is low-z:
I'd be interested to see if the resistor pack gets them to the same resistance or does it put them at a higher resistance than high impedance, just for curiosity's sake.2.6 ohms...
Each injector measured at 2.6 ohms which is exactly 10 ohms from what is on the paperwork (if you look above, the paper reads 12.6 ohms which is a massive error. Not even in the same ball park!
That would be a great thing to know but alas, I made the assumption that the data was correct and chucked the fuel injector resistor pack. I HOPE that I did not fry the AEMv1 injector channel as the oem wiring has two injectors running in parallel which drops the resistance to 1.3 ohms for a total of 9.5 Amps through both injectors!!!I'd be interested to see if the resistor pack gets them to the same resistance or does it put them at a higher resistance than high impedance, just for curiosity's sake.
I do a full CPS delete kit which uses a 36-1 trigger wheel on the front of an ATI pulley with a Ford VR pickup for crank position. Nice beefy bracket for the sensor to maintain a clean signal. Magnet in the intake cam gear for cam sync with a small bracket that bolts in the stock alternator location. You use an M12 threaded hall sensor for the pickup. Also comes with a press in (no bolts) block off for the original CPS.which ever route you take, be sure to budget for a true crank trigger and cam ref setup.
the CPS has to much timing drift for high HP applications.
It was just pure luck. I recognized them and the price was right so i pulled trigger.Haha, nice.
I'll never see that stuff.