Figgie's build: Project Rodknox

plaaya69

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Do you plan on doing the zulu mod where you add extra coolant holes for the coolant passage in the back of the cylinder head behind cylinder 6?


Also do you plan on doing those ARP inserts for the head bolt holes in the cylinder head or any other plans/mods to keep a happy 7m motor?
 

3p141592654

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Unless someone can show a fluids analysis that it doesn't unbalance the flow in other parts of the head I would not touch that mod. You will note that toyota did not open up the holes fully between the block, gasket and head for any cylinder. That is to ensure that the flow is evenly divided around all cylinders, with more flow on the exhaust side. It used to be an art, but now its just another thing modeled with FEM or other computation techniques during the design phase.
 
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figgie

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Also do you plan on doing those ARP inserts for the head bolt holes in the cylinder head or any other plans/mods to keep a happy 7m motor?
I am adventurous so I already did the zooloo mod (zooloo was the guy that did it).

On the inserts. I am not doing them this round.
 

figgie

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Another update:

Folks. This is what was preventing oil from spewing in cabin (I wish I was joking).
20190504_171434-1372x2822.jpg 20190504_173538-1372x2822.jpg

Notice the gel? This is oil!

20190504_174323-1372x2822.jpg

Busy day as I plugged the hole up for the OEM oil pressure
20190503_175513-1372x2822.jpg 20190503_180548-1372x2822.jpg

Head is bolted to 90 lbs-ft using ARP ultra torque lube.

Removed the 3 gauge pillar on the driver side

20190504_173706-1612x784.jpg

More to come later!
 

Piratetip

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Oh wow. I have to say, I thought the best parts of this build had already been found.
WRONG>
 

figgie

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Well it is not all bad...

I found a thick haste engineering radiator with looks like 2 x 11 inch fans. Made in USA. My guess is Derale as these thing pull a CRAP ton of air.

20190504_220143-1372x2822.jpg 20190504_220150-2822x1372.jpg

These is just enough room between fans and the water pulley though I think the shroud was custom made afterwards. I did the measurements and technically speaking, two 12 or if very creative, 2 13 can be shoe horned in this area.
 
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figgie

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Ok. So the fun continues!

So I took the turbo and turbo manifold as one.

I decided to take the waste gate section apart. Looking back, should have taken a before picture.. this is the after..
20190505_210803-3024x1470.jpg
Notice there is no gap, now.

Prior to me disassembling the waste gate portion, there was a gap of a penny in between the upside down mount and the turbo manifold. Yep, even the gasket was on the wrong side!

I have taken off about 100+ feet of black electrical tape.

Now for my public service announcement.

If you dont know what a cold soldering joint is...

20190505_205058-1764x3629.jpg

I need to undo the white wire from the oem yellow wire.

This is a knock sensor rework

20190505_204221-3749x1822.jpg

Fun times continue!

Things done.

Flushed old coolant out of block until it was coming out clear.
Undid way to much electrical tape
Isolated stock harness from AEM sensors for map and air intake temprature.
Removed the mechanical gauges. Have no f'ing idea where the water temp gauge was hooked up to.

Next in line

Figure out how the power is feeding the front fuse box. I see more wet noodle of a mess.

Did pickup some cheap Walmart oil to run car before flushing that and dropping in the NAPA full synthetic (made by Valvoline).
 

figgie

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sorry for the lack of updates.

I actually got most of the motor back together then my butter fingers had an accident. One of the cam cover bolts decided to take a trip into the timing belt area and lodge itself between the oil pump gear and the gear mount for the oil pump gear (where the thrust washer goes). So had to take apart the Crank pulley and A/C to get at that stupid screw.

With that said, I was able to take it out and put the engine back together again. It did cost me 2 hours thanks to more complaining than complexity. The actual work took me about 1 hour from take off to put back on.

I was asked what my soldering equipment looks like...

20190519_155430-1470x3024.jpg

Jbc tools soldering station. I used to run a Weller WX2021 but it was replaced with this.

Also I managed to remove all the stereo distribution stuff which cleaned up the battery area further.



Crimped cooper lugs with heat shrink.

20190519_173424-1470x3024.jpg 20190519_173502-1470x3024.jpg

(Will post picture of copper lugs crimped. Thought I had taken picture)


Now I am having a hard time with the positive wire/s that feed the Main fuse block in the engine compartment. It works but I might take another surgical knife to it and remove the wires into the main 100AM fuse and replace with a single 4 gauge line (I did this with m 87 when the positive wire was bare copper due to the heat metling the sheathing).
 
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figgie

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Well. Motor is put back together...

Left to do.

20190521_204541-1470x3024.jpg

Tidy wiring up but that will be after I start car up.

Verify tune in the AEMV1 and plug some ports up. Then attempt a start!

It has been raining and I need to open garage up so I do not become another statistic!
 

figgie

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So thought I post this.

20190521_213230-1470x3024.jpg

I used to hunt these down and happen to still have distributors for these.

This is for the coolant sensor. Wire is complete crap.

The tool I used i purchased to redo molex connectors for pc.

So gained a couple of things.

1. This is a 2 pin AMP connector which is now owned by TEconnectivity.

The pins. They look awfully similar to other pins I use in the PC world...

I will keep you posted as I have an idea!
 

figgie

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SO yesterday, when I discovered the Water coolant temp sensor had broken the wires (see last post), I started doing what I do best and that is looking up part numbers and cross referencing them against what I know.

now this is done for sake of information gathering! Otherwise if you visit yotaconnectors.com, they sell the parts for you to do this.

On to the facts.

View attachment 81942

1. The water temp sensor had a green 2 pin connector. After I Took it off, I managed to read the lettering. It said "AMP" which back at that time, would have meant AMP connectors which then got bought out by Tyco which became Tyco/Amp before changing their name to what they are known today, TE Connectivity.

So I started digging on their site and they have specific Automobile connectors. Any way, long story short,

2. I found the series which are called Econoseal J Mark II (.070)/Econoseal III. There is another series which is the Econoseal J Mark II.250 which is for high power which is not used in the sensor portion of the harness.

Part numbers are as follows (this is for water temp sensor but I saw the same Sockets being used in TPS, IACV etc).

Socket: Cooper/Tin 171662-1, Bronze 171662-4, Gold Plated 171662-5
2 way connector: 178392-6
Plug: 172748-1

Now, I am trying to see if this cross references to Sumitomo, Amphenol, Delphi etc which my guess is that it does.

Update:

It is close but the Sumitomo .090 WP MT series comes in at .090 and the AMP econoseal J Mark II is .070. I did find a Ford part number (that makes for 3 parts that exchange with Ford. Other two are fuel block off plate and oil filter at 3/4-16.)

Ford part number is WPT-1011 (Pig tail)

With that said, I have Econoseal J Mark II samples coming in directly from TE connectivity.
 

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Piratetip

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Yours is 89+ right?

I have went through all of this already on my pre 88'.

If anyone wants to know where to get new ECU coolant sensor connectors or cold start switch / cold start injector connectors I figured that out as well for pre 88'.

Nice work figgie.

FYI - Give Corsa Technic a try, I have used them quite a bit to purchase from.
They are very responsive and easy to deal with, tell them I sent you.

They can also help source connectors that are difficult to find, they will research the item and add them to their catalog if needed.

I think this is the connector you are looking for FYI:
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=549&category_id=125

yotaconnectors.com also has them as you mentioned in your last post :D
As well as digikey and a number of other places.
 
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figgie

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Yours is 89+ right?

I have went through all of this already on my pre 88'.

If anyone wants to know where to get new ECU coolant sensor connectors or cold start switch / cold start injector connectors I figured that out as well for pre 88'.

Nice work figgie.

FYI - Give Corsa Technic a try, I have used them quite a bit to purchase from.
They are very responsive and easy to deal with, tell them I sent you.

They can also help source connectors that are difficult to find, they will research the item and add them to their catalog if needed.

I think this is the connector you are looking for FYI:
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=549&category_id=125

yotaconnectors.com also has them as you mentioned in your last post :D
As well as digikey and a number of other places.
Indeed, 89. I had the list for 87-88 at one time. I since have lost it.
 

figgie

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Good news and bad news...

Bad news first.

The connectors are in fact the econoseal J Mark II but they are keyed differently so they will not work on the water sensor.

20190524_183907-1568x3226.jpg

Good news is that the pins are an exact match and so are the silicone plugs.

20190524_183815-1568x3226.jpg 20190524_183958-1568x3226.jpg 20190524_190531-1568x3226.jpg
 

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figgie

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Ugh.

Be very transparent here,

Sometime, I tend to over complicate or over think a problem.

I have been attempting to start the car but nothing. Checked

Timing
Air gap on CPS
Wiring going to ignition coils

Long story short

Zero fuel was the issue. I was believing the fuel gauge that showed a 1/4 of a tank.

20190525_212645-2822x1372.jpg

Put 5 gallons of fuel. Now I have correct fuel pressure.

Hoping to get this beast started tomorrow!
 

figgie

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Well I got the car to start and hold steady on 4 cylinders. But every once in a while I was getting a back fire. Well turn out the coil 3 (cylinders 3&4) where completely dead.

So I tested as follows.

I took the CPS off the head and put it on a drill while i had the laptop connected to aem and timing light.

Started with cylinder 1, nice light. I heard the injectors clicking also solidly. AEM showed a sync and RPM reading.

Moved the timing light to cylinder 2 (coil 2 which powers 2 & 5). Very intermittent and it felt like it was firing way late (that explains the back fire some)

Moved to cylinder 4 (coil 3 which powers 3&4). No light at all. Thought it was the ignitor. Moved the plug that was powering coil 1 over to coil 3. Zip, zilch, nada. Dead as a door nail. Every once a while the timing light would flash.

Now to decide if to stick with OEM or go to some COPS.
 

Enraged

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I'd suggest the is300 coil upgrade, as the AEM v1 only has 4 ign outputs if I recall correctly? However, Aaron over at Driftmotion figured out how to run two stock ignitors to run 6 COP, no guarantees though:

ignition1.jpg
 

figgie

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another week, another update

sorry about coming in so slow with these. I work on the car if there is no other pressing items making place.

Well, the ignition coils are good and it turns out the wiring is a dud.

with that said I have removed all bits of aftermarket electrical add-ons in the car so it is back to an almost stock state.

I will put a video of the car running later on.

Can someone help me ID this PTE turbo?

20190601_203325-1470x3024.jpg 20190601_203349-1568x3226.jpg 20190601_203430-1372x2822.jpg
 
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figgie

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so I have been having inconsistent starts with some massive backfire.

Long story short, there is only 1 4 gauge wire going to the front of the car that feeds both the starter and the main fuse box up front (along with the alternator).

I tested a theory and long story short, I am ordering 0 gauge wire to feed the starter directly while leaving the 4 gauge to feed the alternator and main fuse box.

the issue is that while starting, the power would drop below what the AEM can handle and cause a power reboot of the unit as the motor was attempting to start. I noticed this also on the wide band.

With that said, things accomplished.

All the extra electrical stuff is now gone with exception of AEM wideband (which I configured for lambda use) and I have learned that the fuel tank fill gauge was not calibrated properly. So I will do that next.

This should get me to the point of starting the car consistently and keeping it running also.
 

figgie

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another update,

well I finally upgraded the electrical. The battery is currently in the hatch(not in a battery box yet) and it was how I purchased the car. there was 1, 4 gauge wire going from the battery to the main fuse block up front, the alternator and the starter. During starting, I was noticing that the AEM Wideband would reboot itself. After touching the wire, it was warm to the touch, not melting but warm. There was also 1, 4 gauge wire to ground.

So me being me, I bought some 0 gauge wire and took the time to reconfigure how the electrical was routed.

Now, I have two wires going to the front of the car.

1 x 4 Gauge wire from battery to the main fuse box up front EXCLUSIVELY. There is a 150 AMP fuse inline at about 4 inches from the positive terminal.
1 x 0 Gauge Positive wire going to the starter and chaining to the alternator. Currently not fused but plan is to put a 250 AMP circuit breaker, just incase.
1 x 0 Gauge ground wire from battery to chassis ground
1 x 4 Gauge ground from OEM ground underbody to motor (on manual cars by the clutch slave cylinder)
1 x 4 Gauge ground from OEM ground in front of car by main fuse box to intake manifold which has the OEM harness grounded to.

This now is an easy step to install 2 master kill switches that will kill the EMS power and alternator side.

shown here,

the 4 gauge ground wire next to the OEM motor ground wiring.

20190615_191144-1607x3306.jpg

P.S. I dispise the china turbo manifold... it is making routing of the oil return not so nice. Already scorched one stainless steel braided hose. I have an idea that I will post if it work.
 
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figgie

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4th of July post update!

Well folks. I decided to take the wiring plunge and take out the old 7m OEM coils.


In their place...
20190705_210050-1470x3024.jpg

6 x R35 GTR ignition coils.

The "harmess" was hacked together as I do not have my goto wire... AS22759/91.

I was able to source the pig tails from,

O'Reilly's.

Cost was 4.99 per pig tail. Not to shabby considering that Nissan does not sell those pig tails.

Me being me, the connectors are also on the Nissan Altima and just about every Nissan but they are really Sumitomo RS connector (saves you the "Godzilla" tax).

Sumitomo 6189-7471 (E 03 FGY-RS).

Ok now the fun part. I could not find any information on pin out, so I had to find a GTR service manual and sure as shit I was able to decipher what I needed from a 2013 Nissan GTR Service Manual.

Without further adieu

R35 ignition coil pin out


I am still not done but wiring is there. Just need to terminate the ground wiring.

I will also need to fabricate a coil pack mount. So if anyone has an spare oil galley cover. Let me know!
 

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figgie

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From one gremlin to the next.
I dislike refurb...

The starter decided it does not like trying to start e85. I had a feeling it was on its way out the door due to crank rpm (100rpm was a lucky day).

Has anyone used starters from powermaster, tilton etc or any other starter with the Hitachi motor?

Tooth count: 9
Pitch: unknown



20190709_203631-1470x3024.jpg 20190709_203645-1470x3024.jpg
 

figgie

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Ok

So I just got my denso remanufactured starter.

It is a 1.4kw starter.

Old starter that I pulled from supra is on top.
1.4kw on bottom.
20190712_203342-1372x2822.jpg

My guess is that the old starter was anywhere from 1.6kw to a max of 2.2kw.

Now I have a theory which I think will work but will have to wait on it.
 

figgie

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Holy crap!!!

Finally got the car started and idling!

Bad news (sort of) is that idle is at 550 rpm sustained instead. Not to bad for 1120 cc/min injectors.

So the new starter cranks at 200+ rpm compared to the old one at sub 100 rpm. So that issue was from day 1.

Bad news is that now it looks like the idle air valve is not operational as I cannot control idle speed. More than likely it is more electrical.

I also have to rewire the electrical fans to operate off the relays by the main fuse box.
 

figgie

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Ok, that was phase 1.

Now onto phase 2 which is tuning. I drove the car without issues but there are some lean spots at low load low rpm. Without the Idle valve though, I have to be careful on stop lights as it wants to die. I have it idling at 650 which to me is a feat!

Also forgot to mention, I live about 2 minutes away from a coop and they have E85 there. the car is tuned for e85.

once tuning is complete here is what is next (hopefully!)

#1. A/C. it has the r134a conversion for the ports but it has no gas. My guess is that the massive exhaust leak probably cooked orings on the passenger side and over pressurized the system.

#2 More electrical issues. As I was driving, I noticed the windshield wipers were going awfully slow. Throw in that the windows don't go down (as I removed the alarm system) and all that will have to be redone.

#3 I will have to create a mount for the R35 ignition coils above.

#4 Alternator. Going to install a high output alternator. I will require it due to lots of electrical (nothing to do with stereo) load.

#5 PPS removal. Yes I am removing everything to include the rack. It is being replaced with... Well I will reveal that once I actually get it installed.

#6. Master Cylinder and booster for brakes. Will reveal info once it is done.

#7 Go FFIM.

#8 Swap out Ebay exhaust manifold for something custom with a vband flange but more importantly with a recirculated wastegate. I hate the atmospheric dump.

#9 Removing AEM and going MoTeC M1...Adding flex fuel sensor at this point.
 

Enraged

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Does it have the AEM v1 or v2 standalone? Just curious how you wired the coils if you are on the v1, as there is only 5 ignition outputs.
 

figgie

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Hi Enraged.

it is a v1.

I wired them waste spark and it works no issues since it is a 5V signal.

the Injectors are also still in OEM configuration (batch fire).

The IACV is not working currently but my guess is that it is more electrical issues (which I have been addressing as they appear)
 

NashMan

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frist pic looks like it trying to fly away better clip them wings lol
 

NashMan

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Hi Enraged.

it is a v1.

I wired them waste spark and it works no issues since it is a 5V signal.

the Injectors are also still in OEM configuration (batch fire).

The IACV is not working currently but my guess is that it is more electrical issues (which I have been addressing as they appear)
you can just not run the idle air control valve and then just control it with fuel in less you want great cold weather start up
 

figgie

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you can just not run the idle air control valve and then just control it with fuel in less you want great cold weather start up
ehhh.. still same ole Nash. lol I can barely understand.

If you mean that the IACV control is needed for cold start. Funny story.

I can get the car to idle down to 600 rpm without IACV. It also starts within 2 seconds of cranking. I need to adjust the base idle up on this car.
 

Enraged

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You should try talking to Ryan (Nashman) in person, he talks like he types lol

Ah ok, still wired batch fire, makes sense.

I have the v1 too, and no idle speed control at the moment. The stock one is finicky to get working with the v1, but you could add a Ford 2 wire and remote mount it whereever you want.
 

NashMan

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ehhh.. still same ole Nash. lol I can barely understand.

If you mean that the IACV control is needed for cold start. Funny story.

I can get the car to idle down to 600 rpm without IACV. It also starts within 2 seconds of cranking. I need to adjust the base idle up on this car.
I have never tried to get mine to run in the cold winter months, does yours starts with out any issues ?
 

figgie

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You should try talking to Ryan (Nashman) in person, he talks like he types lol

Ah ok, still wired batch fire, makes sense.

I have the v1 too, and no idle speed control at the moment. The stock one is finicky to get working with the v1, but you could add a Ford 2 wire and remote mount it whereever you want.
well, I am guessing that it is an electrical issue once again.

So far everything has been electrical.

Dud ignition coils
complete mess of electrical harness
battery relocation to trunk was done incorrecty.
 

NashMan

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well, I am guessing that it is an electrical issue once again.

So far everything has been electrical.

Dud ignition coils
complete mess of electrical harness
battery relocation to trunk was done incorrecty.
battery in trunk incorrectly oh do tell ???
 

figgie

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battery in trunk incorrectly oh do tell ???
the battery was ran t the back of the trunk going through 1 150 amp circuit breaker over 4 gauge wire

I did not the math it should have been at least 2 gauge.
I upgraded the wiring to the battery to 0 Gauge wire for both ground and positive.

I willpost video of the car this weekend. I have been in the middle of a move and work obligations.

The good
It starts really fast on E85.
Running R35 GTR Ignition coils.
All Electrical have been fixed
currently running in "NA" trim as I adjust fueling throughout. Once done, I will boost comp the map and should be really damn close. So far I have the low load cruise cells spot on at .95 Lambda
it idles at 650 with 1120cc/min injectors

the not so good.
it idles at 650 regardless of temp. IACV looks shot or wired wrong.
I think I either have dud fuel injectors or the ignition channel in the AEMv1 that controls bank 2&5 is caput which is causing what seems like a miss fire.
will have to redo cooling and electrical fans.
no a/c. All the parts are there, I will just do a vacuum and then refill assuming no leaks. Othewise dryer will need to be replaced.