Figgie's build: Project Rodknox

plaaya69

87T Supra
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Nov 18, 2006
Messages
1,366
Likes
77
Location
Lake County, IL
#41
Do you plan on doing the zulu mod where you add extra coolant holes for the coolant passage in the back of the cylinder head behind cylinder 6?


Also do you plan on doing those ARP inserts for the head bolt holes in the cylinder head or any other plans/mods to keep a happy 7m motor?
 

3p141592654

90T
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
4,090
Likes
65
Location
Thousand Oaks, CA
#42
Unless someone can show a fluids analysis that it doesn't unbalance the flow in other parts of the head I would not touch that mod. You will note that toyota did not open up the holes fully between the block, gasket and head for any cylinder. That is to ensure that the flow is evenly divided around all cylinders, with more flow on the exhaust side. It used to be an art, but now its just another thing modeled with FEM or other computation techniques during the design phase.
 
Likes: IchibanEye

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#43
Also do you plan on doing those ARP inserts for the head bolt holes in the cylinder head or any other plans/mods to keep a happy 7m motor?
I am adventurous so I already did the zooloo mod (zooloo was the guy that did it).

On the inserts. I am not doing them this round.
 

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#44
Another update:

Folks. This is what was preventing oil from spewing in cabin (I wish I was joking).
20190504_171434-1372x2822.jpg 20190504_173538-1372x2822.jpg

Notice the gel? This is oil!

20190504_174323-1372x2822.jpg

Busy day as I plugged the hole up for the OEM oil pressure
20190503_175513-1372x2822.jpg 20190503_180548-1372x2822.jpg

Head is bolted to 90 lbs-ft using ARP ultra torque lube.

Removed the 3 gauge pillar on the driver side

20190504_173706-1612x784.jpg

More to come later!
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
1,527
Likes
104
Location
MKE, WI
#45
Oh wow. I have to say, I thought the best parts of this build had already been found.
WRONG>
 

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#46
Well it is not all bad...

I found a thick haste engineering radiator with looks like 2 x 11 inch fans. Made in USA. My guess is Derale as these thing pull a CRAP ton of air.

20190504_220143-1372x2822.jpg 20190504_220150-2822x1372.jpg

These is just enough room between fans and the water pulley though I think the shroud was custom made afterwards. I did the measurements and technically speaking, two 12 or if very creative, 2 13 can be shoe horned in this area.
 
Last edited:

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#47
Ok. So the fun continues!

So I took the turbo and turbo manifold as one.

I decided to take the waste gate section apart. Looking back, should have taken a before picture.. this is the after..
20190505_210803-3024x1470.jpg
Notice there is no gap, now.

Prior to me disassembling the waste gate portion, there was a gap of a penny in between the upside down mount and the turbo manifold. Yep, even the gasket was on the wrong side!

I have taken off about 100+ feet of black electrical tape.

Now for my public service announcement.

If you dont know what a cold soldering joint is...

20190505_205058-1764x3629.jpg

I need to undo the white wire from the oem yellow wire.

This is a knock sensor rework

20190505_204221-3749x1822.jpg

Fun times continue!

Things done.

Flushed old coolant out of block until it was coming out clear.
Undid way to much electrical tape
Isolated stock harness from AEM sensors for map and air intake temprature.
Removed the mechanical gauges. Have no f'ing idea where the water temp gauge was hooked up to.

Next in line

Figure out how the power is feeding the front fuse box. I see more wet noodle of a mess.

Did pickup some cheap Walmart oil to run car before flushing that and dropping in the NAPA full synthetic (made by Valvoline).
 

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#48
sorry for the lack of updates.

I actually got most of the motor back together then my butter fingers had an accident. One of the cam cover bolts decided to take a trip into the timing belt area and lodge itself between the oil pump gear and the gear mount for the oil pump gear (where the thrust washer goes). So had to take apart the Crank pulley and A/C to get at that stupid screw.

With that said, I was able to take it out and put the engine back together again. It did cost me 2 hours thanks to more complaining than complexity. The actual work took me about 1 hour from take off to put back on.

I was asked what my soldering equipment looks like...

20190519_155430-1470x3024.jpg

Jbc tools soldering station. I used to run a Weller WX2021 but it was replaced with this.

Also I managed to remove all the stereo distribution stuff which cleaned up the battery area further.



Crimped cooper lugs with heat shrink.

20190519_173424-1470x3024.jpg 20190519_173502-1470x3024.jpg

(Will post picture of copper lugs crimped. Thought I had taken picture)


Now I am having a hard time with the positive wire/s that feed the Main fuse block in the engine compartment. It works but I might take another surgical knife to it and remove the wires into the main 100AM fuse and replace with a single 4 gauge line (I did this with m 87 when the positive wire was bare copper due to the heat metling the sheathing).
 
Last edited:

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#49
Well. Motor is put back together...

Left to do.

20190521_204541-1470x3024.jpg

Tidy wiring up but that will be after I start car up.

Verify tune in the AEMV1 and plug some ports up. Then attempt a start!

It has been raining and I need to open garage up so I do not become another statistic!
 

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#50
So thought I post this.

20190521_213230-1470x3024.jpg

I used to hunt these down and happen to still have distributors for these.

This is for the coolant sensor. Wire is complete crap.

The tool I used i purchased to redo molex connectors for pc.

So gained a couple of things.

1. This is a 2 pin AMP connector which is now owned by TEconnectivity.

The pins. They look awfully similar to other pins I use in the PC world...

I will keep you posted as I have an idea!
 

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#51
SO yesterday, when I discovered the Water coolant temp sensor had broken the wires (see last post), I started doing what I do best and that is looking up part numbers and cross referencing them against what I know.

now this is done for sake of information gathering! Otherwise if you visit yotaconnectors.com, they sell the parts for you to do this.

On to the facts.

View attachment 81942

1. The water temp sensor had a green 2 pin connector. After I Took it off, I managed to read the lettering. It said "AMP" which back at that time, would have meant AMP connectors which then got bought out by Tyco which became Tyco/Amp before changing their name to what they are known today, TE Connectivity.

So I started digging on their site and they have specific Automobile connectors. Any way, long story short,

2. I found the series which are called Econoseal J Mark II (.070)/Econoseal III. There is another series which is the Econoseal J Mark II.250 which is for high power which is not used in the sensor portion of the harness.

Part numbers are as follows (this is for water temp sensor but I saw the same Sockets being used in TPS, IACV etc).

Socket: Cooper/Tin 171662-1, Bronze 171662-4, Gold Plated 171662-5
2 way connector: 178392-6
Plug: 172748-1

Now, I am trying to see if this cross references to Sumitomo, Amphenol, Delphi etc which my guess is that it does.

Update:

It is close but the Sumitomo .090 WP MT series comes in at .090 and the AMP econoseal J Mark II is .070. I did find a Ford part number (that makes for 3 parts that exchange with Ford. Other two are fuel block off plate and oil filter at 3/4-16.)

Ford part number is WPT-1011 (Pig tail)

With that said, I have Econoseal J Mark II samples coming in directly from TE connectivity.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
1,527
Likes
104
Location
MKE, WI
#52
Yours is 89+ right?

I have went through all of this already on my pre 88'.

If anyone wants to know where to get new ECU coolant sensor connectors or cold start switch / cold start injector connectors I figured that out as well for pre 88'.

Nice work figgie.

FYI - Give Corsa Technic a try, I have used them quite a bit to purchase from.
They are very responsive and easy to deal with, tell them I sent you.

They can also help source connectors that are difficult to find, they will research the item and add them to their catalog if needed.

I think this is the connector you are looking for FYI:
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=549&category_id=125

yotaconnectors.com also has them as you mentioned in your last post :D
As well as digikey and a number of other places.
 
Last edited:

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#53
Yours is 89+ right?

I have went through all of this already on my pre 88'.

If anyone wants to know where to get new ECU coolant sensor connectors or cold start switch / cold start injector connectors I figured that out as well for pre 88'.

Nice work figgie.

FYI - Give Corsa Technic a try, I have used them quite a bit to purchase from.
They are very responsive and easy to deal with, tell them I sent you.

They can also help source connectors that are difficult to find, they will research the item and add them to their catalog if needed.

I think this is the connector you are looking for FYI:
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=549&category_id=125

yotaconnectors.com also has them as you mentioned in your last post :D
As well as digikey and a number of other places.
Indeed, 89. I had the list for 87-88 at one time. I since have lost it.
 

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#54
Good news and bad news...

Bad news first.

The connectors are in fact the econoseal J Mark II but they are keyed differently so they will not work on the water sensor.

20190524_183907-1568x3226.jpg

Good news is that the pins are an exact match and so are the silicone plugs.

20190524_183815-1568x3226.jpg 20190524_183958-1568x3226.jpg 20190524_190531-1568x3226.jpg
 

Attachments

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#55
Ugh.

Be very transparent here,

Sometime, I tend to over complicate or over think a problem.

I have been attempting to start the car but nothing. Checked

Timing
Air gap on CPS
Wiring going to ignition coils

Long story short

Zero fuel was the issue. I was believing the fuel gauge that showed a 1/4 of a tank.

20190525_212645-2822x1372.jpg

Put 5 gallons of fuel. Now I have correct fuel pressure.

Hoping to get this beast started tomorrow!
 

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#56
Well I got the car to start and hold steady on 4 cylinders. But every once in a while I was getting a back fire. Well turn out the coil 3 (cylinders 3&4) where completely dead.

So I tested as follows.

I took the CPS off the head and put it on a drill while i had the laptop connected to aem and timing light.

Started with cylinder 1, nice light. I heard the injectors clicking also solidly. AEM showed a sync and RPM reading.

Moved the timing light to cylinder 2 (coil 2 which powers 2 & 5). Very intermittent and it felt like it was firing way late (that explains the back fire some)

Moved to cylinder 4 (coil 3 which powers 3&4). No light at all. Thought it was the ignitor. Moved the plug that was powering coil 1 over to coil 3. Zip, zilch, nada. Dead as a door nail. Every once a while the timing light would flash.

Now to decide if to stick with OEM or go to some COPS.
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
1,950
Likes
14
Location
Victoria, BC, Canada
#57
I'd suggest the is300 coil upgrade, as the AEM v1 only has 4 ign outputs if I recall correctly? However, Aaron over at Driftmotion figured out how to run two stock ignitors to run 6 COP, no guarantees though:

ignition1.jpg
 

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#58
another week, another update

sorry about coming in so slow with these. I work on the car if there is no other pressing items making place.

Well, the ignition coils are good and it turns out the wiring is a dud.

with that said I have removed all bits of aftermarket electrical add-ons in the car so it is back to an almost stock state.

I will put a video of the car running later on.

Can someone help me ID this PTE turbo?

20190601_203325-1470x3024.jpg 20190601_203349-1568x3226.jpg 20190601_203430-1372x2822.jpg
 
Last edited:

figgie

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,287
Likes
16
Location
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
#59
so I have been having inconsistent starts with some massive backfire.

Long story short, there is only 1 4 gauge wire going to the front of the car that feeds both the starter and the main fuse box up front (along with the alternator).

I tested a theory and long story short, I am ordering 0 gauge wire to feed the starter directly while leaving the 4 gauge to feed the alternator and main fuse box.

the issue is that while starting, the power would drop below what the AEM can handle and cause a power reboot of the unit as the motor was attempting to start. I noticed this also on the wide band.

With that said, things accomplished.

All the extra electrical stuff is now gone with exception of AEM wideband (which I configured for lambda use) and I have learned that the fuel tank fill gauge was not calibrated properly. So I will do that next.

This should get me to the point of starting the car consistently and keeping it running also.