Figgie's build: Project Rodknox

figgie

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#1
Well, I am using this as a place holder for pictures and information.

lets start with the basics.

Name: RODKNOX
MFG: Toyota
model: Supra
Body style: 2 door TARGA
YEAR: 1989

Patient Condition: the car is in ok shape. The car made 550 rwhp on E85 so the motor was in good form. No rust (amazing for a Minnesota car). The bad news is that the previous owner thinks it blew an HG. After hearing what happened and when it happened, I am thinking it might be something less ominous than the typical BHG (it has a MHG and ARP studs along with a built bottom end). It is on an AEM but unsure of version but of course I need the patient under the knife to really tell. The car is currently not running and it also suffers from vampiric battery drain (most likely culprit will be the stereo system).

The good:
No Rust
7M not leaking any oil
No frame damage and technically no accidents
CF Hood with hood latch
AEM standalone.
5-speed (R154)
Targa (I like the targa top but hate the wet noodle body flex)
Alcantara interior on the Targa, doors and other places.

The bad:
7M-GTE is in an unknown condition and currently inoperative
A/C (as anyone that knows me, I MUST have an operative A/C)
Unorthodox undamped pulley
Exhaust system with atmospheric wastegate.(HATE HATE HATE)
Electrical gremlins

The ugly:
Dash. To glossy and have plans that I need to probably make custom... we will see.
Cluster fuck of gauges that would make an Air Force pilot dizzy! I am talking gauges on both A pillars, glove box. I literally lost count!
Carbon Fiber single wing bolted to trunk (there by making it worthless for downforce)
2 tone paint job. Black bottom, grey top (or was it the other way around, regardless paint job!).
10# Wet Nitrous system from Nitrous Express
Stereo system that is engulfing the entire trunk (2 x 12" image dynamic subs, 2 x Memphis amplifiers associated wires in a custom 100+# MDF enclosure).
Rear seat deleted with a massive fiberglass shell that was molded for the rear seat. This is where the NOx is installed.
Fuel pumps. It currently has 2 x 255lph walbro. Now a days the 450 lph fuel pumps are the way to go at a minimum or brushless.
intercooler piping and mostly likely intercooler (as it has the inlet and outlet on one side).
Wet noodle of an electrical train wreck under the hood.
Not sure of wheels and tires. They are 17" but black.
Unknown Coilovers

The dangerous: trunk floor was cut open to install fuel pump lines into the cabin and back out....talk about a fire hazard.



Plan: Well first step is to get this car running at a steady baseline. Once that takes place, THEN I can focus on the rest.
K.I.S.S. I believe in the Keep It Simple, Stupid principal. All the gauges (and yes, I mean every single bit of them) will be pulled.

I have many big ideas from a technology standpoint but the complexity of them is not trivial (CanBus deciphering, LinBus and possibly even Flexray).
With that said, all these protocols are just communication protocols which land squarely in the realm of computers where I have been making a living for the past 22+ years. The bad part is it requires time.

As soon as I get pictures of RODKNOX, I will post it. Who knows, I might want to be LamarossaV2. ;)

Finally got the car in my possession.

Without adieu. The victi... Eric I mean patient.

20190407_153426_resize_55.jpg 20190407_153438_resize_68.jpg 20190407_155958_resize_51.jpg 20190407_153458_resize_11.jpg 20190407_162943_resize_50.jpg SmartSelect_20190407-210120_Facebook.jpg
 
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Likes: debrucer

figgie

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#3
First update: pictures posted!

Now on to the nitty gritty. The car suffers from crank but no start.

Long story short, the previous owner installed an alarm and they hacked the harness up badly.

Thank goodness I still remember the pinout for the starter/ignition but geez, soldering gobs, miles of electrical tape.

This was within 20 minutes of having the car. 20190407_171338_resize_32.jpg 20190407_200632_resize_88.jpg

I still need to finish cutting the window openers out.

Now I understand the vampiric battery drain issue.

Notice the hole in the trunk floor. That is the fuel pump with fuel lines in cabin. Talk about dangerous!!!!

20190407_153452_resize_88.jpg
 
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Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
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#4
I see potential, you have your work cut out for you though

Those tailights, wow.

The doors must make it easy to work on
 

Piratetip

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#5
Wow that car has...character. :D

I see a lot of good things, and a lot of weird things.
I am sure you will address them all in time.

Whats with the oldschool alternator? - There is an extra alternator bracket to push it out farther, why?
What is it making room for?

It has good potential though.

Overlooking everything else, one item is kind of driving me nuts with this engine bay shot.
-Vented crankcase to atmosphere.
-Please for the love of the engine car gods, pull a vacuum on the crankcase!
Wow...just wow.

Please take a photo of the huge box o' shit you pull out of the vehicle when you are done stripping the crap.
Oh and weigh it too. lol!
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
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#6
is there two belts on the alternator?

I gave up arguing with my friends about vented catch cans, there is no convincing them that they aren't a good idea.

edit: nevermind, just noticed it's a polished cover on the alt making it look like two belts
 

Piratetip

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#7
Yeah I thought the same thing. Mirror finish performance. :D
 

figgie

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#8
hahahah

the vent case is getting dropped as I am doing FFIM from Sleeperdesign.

The alternator is an one wire sucker. I honestly have not seen if it has a regulator anywhere in the system but from what I have seen. Probably not!!!
As for the two belts... it is actually the reflection of the one belt from the Xtra shiny fan cooler plate. ;)

THe other thing getting chucked,

the NOS solenoid plate...

the doors. Look cool, but how the hell am I going to get the damn door panels off!!! I might have to close myself in the car!!!
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
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#9
the 1 wire alts usually have an internal regulator like the stock Supra alt. You'll probably have the main power wire plus a wire for the charging light.

I was looking at switching to a 1 wire if I do an alt relocation, they are cheaper for a higher amp rating.

Did the car come with a front bumper? Though not my taste, the body looks to be in decent shape.
 

figgie

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#10
HI Enraged,

it did. bumper is in the garage.

If you remember Supratrey, It is that style with the big offroad lights on the side of the intercooler opening (do not recall the name of that bumper).



Status update 2:

I find it so awesome that the MA71 was so modular for that time that an entire system can be hacked to it's death and lots of the other systems still work (turn signals, hazards, headlights, brake lights, starter system, A/C).

I got all the main starter harness fixed! I am going to hold my complaining as it is what it is so I will just move forward but a little bit of flux, the correct tip on my JBC Tools soldering stations, some heat shrink and no more blob mess.

The car turns over but no start. With that said, it feels like the battery is completely crap as it chugs like the battery died. Optima yellow top. So I will need to replace battery and see if I can get a better start condition. I did leave the battery overnight to see if my battery charger can recondition the battery back to a healthy state to attempt to start the car.
 

figgie

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#11
Woooweeee.

Another update

So rumaging through the glovebox I found a fuel injector clinic data match spreadsheet.

Long story short, they are high impedance injectors (12.6ohms) AND the stock injector resistor pack is still installed. :/



So now I have to bypass that nonesense...
 

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figgie

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#13
Yay...

Ok. So a bit more background.

There has been reports that the 550cc high-tax injectors work without removing the injectors resistor pack.

Well these are 1200 cc/min injectors.

I was going to get into the science bit of it. Instead, fuel pressure was 45 psi..even with pumps disconnected. Did the mod fuel injector bypass, no pressure dropped to nearly zero as I was expecting. Now on to the next gremlin.
 

figgie

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#14
Cylinder #5 spark plug...

20190414_152018.jpg

Anyone see an issue.

Now the real item is was it gapped blindly OR were the pistons made interference..

I am thinking the first judging by all the other issues.

With that said..

#2 found antifreeze so the head has to come off regardless.

20190414_152404.jpg
 

GC89

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#15
bummer, at least you will know what it looks like in there and whats installed after the hg job.
 

figgie

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#16
Another day another update...

First, think oil got to the bottom. Through this hose?
20190416_212430-1470x3024.jpg
Nothing like taking intake off and e85 comes out in drove...
20190416_201641-2822x1372.jpg

20190416_201638-2822x1372.jpg

And finally...check out #2

20190416_232543-2822x1372.jpg 20190416_232917-2822x1372.jpg 20190416_232921-2822x1372.jpg

The mhg bent like a pretzel on the cylinder wall to jacket. That what happened at 600 hp folks!
 

plaaya69

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#17
You definitely have your plate full on this one figgie. I never seen someone add a an fitting to the J-tube plate on the motor, how was that set up on this motor to vent?

That MHG looks like a Cometic one since it has the rivets on it and it looks like they were never removed which could have caused problems when torqued down.
 

Piratetip

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#18
Wow. I am surprised this kind of build supported 600 HP.
Well..not for long it looks like.
 

figgie

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#19
This is my psa...

Folks, please please please, when installing gauges for pressure, do not run the lines into the cabin.

I discovered an oil pressure line from the engine block doing INTO the main cabin.

Why is this a safety concern? if that oil line (or fuel line) pops you now have fuel/oil in the cabin and nothing screams fun like 200 degree oil spraying on you or the nice exceptionally flammable fuel vapors in cabin.
 

figgie

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#22
Whats with the oldschool alternator? - There is an extra alternator bracket to push it out farther, why?
What is it making room for?
The alternator looks to be from a different vehicle hence why It has that custom bracket.

The ear that supposed to go into the stock alternator bracket is moved forward so they built that custom bracket. It looks like a ford plug.
 

Piratetip

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#23
Yeah looked that way.
Guess I was wondering why?
Why not just put the correct alternator on.

My prediction was this car got built in a place normally accustomed to domestic vehicles.

At this point it's not really suprising though for the amount of issues you have found.
 

suprahero

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#25
I'm glad most of my issues are now only cosmetic. I still have a few minor electrical issues to fix like a dome light and redoing instrument cluster lights, but all that seems miniscule compared to what you've got going on. Good luck with the rest of the build.
 

figgie

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#26
Well,

after taking away all the crud at the top of the cylinders.

#2 detonated a lot. Left pitting on the piston. Amazingly no issue on the head.

So this is what I can deduce so far

Assumptions
Turbo - PTE of unknown size but it looks like a GT35R size. Good to 600hp in it's efficiency range but can go beyond that while cranking out hot air.
Manifold Pressure showed steady at 30 psi which I don't know why, that seems awfully high for that power level unless that turbo is overworked.
Wastegate - unknown origin and that bothers me to know end.


my guess of what happened.

1. Running the Turbo way outside it's efficiency range (which means it is throwing hot air).
2. considering that this is still configured for OEM operation on an AEM v2. He might have been hitting the duty cycle ceiling of the injector. Throw in that the injectors are High resistance AND the stock fuel injector resistor pack was still installed, probably pushed the duty cycle to static open. way early in the RPM range.
3. fuel pump, technically the car has two Walbro 255lph that should be around 450 rwhp give or take. He must have been running two pumps OR he was testing the octane rating of E85 on 1. the 2nd pump was never configured which leads me to believe that he/the tuner was pushing it on 1 pump which I am surprised it went that high (will confirm once I am able to get into the AEM)
4. I will find out more the minute I look at fuel and timing maps of the AEM. Probably pushing way to much timing on top


other bits and ends.

Turbo manifold is the ebay special so I am guessing, so is the waste gate.
Nitrous was plumbed but thankfully the electrical circuit was never finished (otherwise it would have required a bucket and shovel to pick up pieces).
Hoses for cooling are not OEM.
Oil was very clear so it was not used much
Cross hatch pattern still visible on cylinder walls.
Waste gate is vented to atmosphere (ugh I hate that).
Main Electrical wiring for battery/alternator/starter was crimped with what appears a dog chewing the terminals (that what It looks like!).


HKS HG, NEW ARP studs and ARP ultra lube to arrive tomorrow.
 

GC89

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#27
I always have a dog and a jar of peanut butter handy when I am doing some wiring.....
 

figgie

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#28
Yijes!

Well I am putting this on here for everyone to see.

This is on 1200cc/min injectors.

My math might be a bit off but now I see why he detonated!!! That is pulsewidth.

20190423_205935_crop_439x428.jpg
 

figgie

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#32
The name you gave the vehicle is very fitting.
Going to be honest,

not sure how the heck this car didn't vomit a rod out the side of the block or worse yet, have those new pistons melted completely (#2 does have pitting from the aluminum melting some during detonation).

I have received my HKS headgasket and new ARP studs. Now I need to get some FIPG to start putting the head back on.

I will also have to undo the EFI harness so that I can surgically remove the aftermarket electrical crap from the harness and also heat shrink the OEM brown ground as the sheathing is brittle and the brown wire has wire exposed and it is WAY to close to the massive 4G positive cable that is feeding the starter.
 

figgie

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#34
really surprised anything is salvageable
I am not

I am going to rant a bit so please forgive me.

The 7M is infact very sturdy!

yes yes, HG issue. that is a 30 minute fix with 4 hours if you are machining head etc.


People love to hate on the 7M because it is not a 2j but I have physically driven a 240k miles 7m with zero oil pressure and the engine still worked (albeit with massive rod knock).

Look at this one and it still works (we will see once I button things up).
 

GC89

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#35
I'm not hating on the 7M by any means, I believe that are great motors and with a few minor updates are fantastic.

Just commenting that with fuel and timing maps that bad and the power it made I am surprised that it wasn't much worse. If it was run on E85 much of the time that may have been a saving grace.
 

figgie

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#36
I'm not hating on the 7M by any means, I believe that are great motors and with a few minor updates are fantastic.

Just commenting that with fuel and timing maps that bad and the power it made I am surprised that it wasn't much worse. If it was run on E85 much of the time that may have been a saving grace.

I did not mean to say that you were hating on it. I was talking about the overall "h8orade" drinking of the 7M from all the ignorant masses.

it was exclusively running on e85 all the time which in the summer it is a true E85. WInter it becomes like E50.

I just got some Napa fully synth (3.99/qt) and a Napa Platinum filter (same as the WiX XP). Unfortunatly I am booked solid today as I must watch Avenders: End game with my family tonight. Tomorrow starts the fun!
 

figgie

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#38
Update:

Sorry for the slow updates folks. It is amazing what lack of tools does to a project. I used to have torque wrenches and all. After I lost everything back in 2010. I no longer had tools to include mechanic tools.

So I got my HKS HG installed, ARP studs installed and nuts hand tightened but have not proceeded further as I do not have a torque wrench to tighten down.

Also I was going through the AEM cal that was on the car. More madness.

The Ignition coil setup, only one coils was checked when 3 need to be checked. I also adjusted the fueling table and the timing table with some basic math stuff so it looks MUCH more like I was expecting.

I actually think that was good as it prevented the coil driving #5 from frying thanks to the plug being shorted out to ground per my picture above.

I have removed all the SS braid covering that was installed on most of the hoses (what a nuisance).

now I am probably going to bite the bullet and head to harbor freight to pick up an inexpensive Torque Wrench.
 

figgie

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#40
Pirate, sent you a PM on that. :)

Update for May 3rd:

Well I ordered 2x 1/8 BSPT Plugs. My local grainger has them for 2 dollars. A bit pricey but they were here locally.

I will be "hopefully" plugging the old oil pressure hole up where the OEM sensor goes.

Why Hopefully? Well as with everything else on this car, there was a brass 1/8 NPT to FPT adapter that was feeding the in cabin oil pressure gauge (saying that just makes my hair stand on end). Hopefully the brass got cross threaded and not the iron threads.


Another thing I do to my 7m, I am also going to be tapping the head for 1/8 BSPT where the water feeds to IACV and TB for coolant. I have always done this mod to include my old 87 I used to have. I think Toyota did it for Icing reason but as I said, when I used to drive the supra in Minnesota. I never had issues with icing (yes my old 87 was my daily).

I am going to get some cheap copper plugs as the old ones, I don't trust #5 as that was closed by something hitting against it. I am hoping to have the motor running this weekend so I can at least flush out the cooling system in it's entirety and start dialing in the maps. About the only thing I am going to keep is going to be the AEM UEGO.

All other gauges are about to be pulled out today. Fun times!