Engine Dies As Soon As Boost Is +

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mistermatt516

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#1
Hi all, Been lurking for some time. I dont know where to start looking. She wants to take off...but as soon as the boost hits postive the car lurches and stalls...I likely wont be doin the work myself...but would love info so i can talk to the mech....thanks...

PS
Im still looking for a reliable mech on long island if anyone knows one that knows these cars.....thanks....

Matt
 

MDCmotorsports

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#3
Turbo?

Yes?

B
O
O
S
T

L
E
A
K

B double O to the S to the T on my L to the E on my A then K.

Boost leak.
 

mistermatt516

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#4
thanks guys....whats a code 52?
please excuse my naivte' but how would i go about looking for the leak being that the car seems to need to be in gear? just thought i would look for it myself before getting reammed by a mech....
 

GrimJack

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#6
Boost leak can be found by inspecting the intercooler pipes, more often than not there are several by now - the accordian pipe that feeds air to the turbo usually cracks, as does the rubber pipe off the compressor side of the turbo and the rubber coupler between the 3000 pipe and the throttle body.
 

IHI-RHC7

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#8
Check the plastic hard pipe that goes through the fender as well.
Does your check engine light come on? If so it could be bas knock sensor wiring, or a bad AFM.
 

mistermatt516

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#9
IHI-RHC7 said:
Check the plastic hard pipe that goes through the fender as well.
Does your check engine light come on? If so it could be bas knock sensor wiring, or a bad AFM.
yes the check engine light comes on....have no idea what those things you just said were....lol...but thanks
 

mistermatt516

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#12
chevyeater said:
Where on Long Island? I may be able to take a look if you are local...
Nassau County...Hicksville to be exact...that would be awesome....I am here in texas until Sat nov12th...Then i'll be fixing the car and driving it back down here....
where on the island are you?
 

kapkaniMD

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#13
sorry to open this thread again, but I am having the same problem, I am wondering if the problem with this car was ever found. Thanks
 
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#14
Kap, the culprit 9/10 times is a severe boost leak. Do a search for 'boost leak detector' - you should be able to check for any leaks.

For that matter, if you find you need new IC pipes, I've got a complete set for sale, for dirt cheap. ;)
 

bigaaron

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#15
I don't think this one is a boost leak at all guys, the way he explained it, the first thing I would look at is the fuel pump relay. When boost rises the relay switches off the resistor and switches 12v directly to the pump. If the relay has a bad contact it will do exactly what he explained, it will stall as soon as there is any boost pressure. You may not get a code for that either, becuase you just loose fuel pressure, and there is no monitor for that in the stock setup. What I do on my own cars is replace the old stock relay with a Bosch 30amp relay. I have also fixed this issue on several customer cars.
 
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#16
Oh, good one Aaron - that is a possibility. I had the same problem when I found out the IC hose off the turbo was sporting a split about 5" long.
 

kapkaniMD

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#17
Doward said:
Kap, the culprit 9/10 times is a severe boost leak. Do a search for 'boost leak detector' - you should be able to check for any leaks.

For that matter, if you find you need new IC pipes, I've got a complete set for sale, for dirt cheap. ;)
Thanks for the hint, I will check into it, however I have all metal IC pipes so it would have to be a joint or something.

Also thanks for the heads up on the relay, I actually read that on another post and plan on looking into that as well. Is there a specific kind of bosch relay I need to get or just the one that they sell at like discount auto.
 

mistermatt516

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#18
kapkaniMD said:
Thanks for the hint, I will check into it, however I have all metal IC pipes so it would have to be a joint or something.

Also thanks for the heads up on the relay, I actually read that on another post and plan on looking into that as well. Is there a specific kind of bosch relay I need to get or just the one that they sell at like discount auto.
hey all..sending this from my phone hope it goes thru....it turned out to be a leask in the HKS tee...as well as a shitty knock sensor....
 

kapkaniMD

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#20
bigaaron said:
When boost rises the relay switches off the resistor and switches 12v directly to the pump. If the relay has a bad contact it will do exactly what he explained, it will stall as soon as there is any boost pressure. You may not get a code for that either, becuase you just loose fuel pressure, and there is no monitor for that in the stock setup. What I do on my own cars is replace the old stock relay with a Bosch 30amp relay. I have also fixed this issue on several customer cars.
Hey man, would you happen to be able to give me a quick instruction on the install if I get the bosch 30amp relay, I know how it works i just need to know which wires are which(ie which one is power, switch, etc..) Thanks

also, the dealership one is like $67 and autozone has one that is $60 but it doesnt look anything like a regular relay, http://www.autozone.com/R,APP127110...partType,01258/shopping/partProductDetail.htm , is the bosch one still the way to go??
 

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#21
While I'm with Aaron on the possible cause (a few months ago I repaired a car that had the same symptoms with the same cause) if I were you I'd test it first. A quick way of doing that is to jump the FP terminal in the diagnostic block and drive the car. If the problem remains it's not the relay. That said see isnms's post in the General Section on delayed cranking for the standard Bosch relay pinout. See the online EWD for wiring. Bosch will do the job but since so many people jump them you could probably get a factory relay cheap in the WTB section. I MacGyvered the one I fixed with a spring from a ball point pen. Not something I'd do on my own car but last I heard it was still working fine. I'd test it first though. From what I've read your car is heavily modded and it could be lots of other things.
 

mattjk

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#22
Doesn't sound like boost leak, sounds more like you're in limp home mode.

Learn how to check codes and post back here.

I had this exact problem in my MR2 turbo. As soon as I got into boost, the car would stall. It was a busted knock sensor.
 

mattjk

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#23
mistermatt516 said:
hey all..sending this from my phone hope it goes thru....it turned out to be a leask in the HKS tee...as well as a shitty knock sensor....

lol just saw this post. knock sensor was bad?
 

kapkaniMD

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#24
jetjock said:
While I'm with Aaron on the possible cause (a few months ago I repaired a car that the same symptoms with the same cause) if I were you I'd test it first. A quick way of doing that is to jump the FP terminal in the diagnostic block and drive the car. If the problem remains it's not the relay. That said see isnms's post in the General Section on delayed cranking for the standard Bosch relay pinout. See the online EWD for wiring. Bosch will do the job but since so many people jump them you could probably get a a factory relay cheap in the WTB section. I MacGyvered the one I fixed with a spring from a ball point pen. Not something I'd do on my own car but last I heard it was still working fine. I'd test it first though. From what I've read your car is heavily modded and it could be lots of other things.
Will do, just if you could tell me which terminals I am jumping. Also if it works, and said that most people do it. Is it ok to just run the car with the terminals jumped????? Also since people are saying they had a knock sensor problem, is there a way to test that as well? THanks for all the replies
 

bigaaron

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#25
Even if you find a used relay it's still 16+ years old, that's why if it is in question I just replace it with a Bosch, because the operation of that relay is critical. They get moisture inside (usually from pressure washing) and can become intermittent.
 

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#26
Don't run the car with the terminals jumped all the time. Take you time and get the part if it is indeed your problem. If Toyota wanted the terminal to be jumpered all the time, it would have been...
 

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#27
Aaron has a point. It's the same as with a used TPS. Used is questionable. That said mine is 20 years old ago and zero problems but everything on my engine is corrosion free. It's a crap shoot depending where the car was driven, how it was maintained, on and on. I'd go new OEM if it tests out bad but I'm anal about keeping my cars as close to original as possible other than power upgrades.

SS: I agree he should do it only for testing but how is leaving the jumper in any different from the 12 volt mod? Imo both are dumb on a stock engine but they're electrically the same thing.
 

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#29
Both place 12 volts on the pump full time. I still say he should test it by jumping the block. The way I check pumps is to put a current meter in place of the jumper. You can tell a lot about the health of a pump and it's circuit by doing that. Monitoring fuel pressure during a snap throttle test will also show fuel system problems although not necessarily this one. If it's really the relay boosting with the block jumped will confirm it because the symptom will disappear.
 

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#30
I totally agree, the proper way to diagnose it is to jumper the fp to b+ in diagnostic connector. I was putting the cart before the horse by giving a fix without explaining how to figure out if it needs fixin' first.
 
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kapkaniMD

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#31
bigaaron said:
Even if you find a used relay it's still 16+ years old, that's why if it is in question I just replace it with a Bosch, because the operation of that relay is critical. They get moisture inside (usually from pressure washing) and can become intermittent.
could you give me the connection match up for the bosch 30A, also where do you get a bosch relay at, I picked up a similar one at radio shack is that basically the same
 

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#32
Jeez, I find it amazing you're in med school. Assuming you finish I hope you tell us where you're going to practice so I can stay as far away from there as possible. If Aaron wants to babysit your gluteus maximus fine but unless you stick a freaking jumper in the diag block between FP and B+ then go boost the car and see if the problem goes away you won't get another peep out of me.
 

kapkaniMD

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#33
jetjock said:
Jeez, I find it amazing you're in med school. Assuming you finish I hope you tell us where you're going to practice so I can stay as far away from there as possible. If Aaron wants to babysit your gluteus maximus fine but unless you stick a freaking jumper in the diag block between FP and B+ then go boost the car and see if the problem goes away you won't get another peep out of me.
you seem to be the resident asshole on this forum, seriously, how many people have to tell you that, unless you have some input on somebody's problem then just shut up. I dont work on the car everyday, i seem to have more important things to do than that. SO I like to have everything ready for when I do work on it instead of just waiting around on the internet for people to respond. Seriously, you answered the question, which i appreciate, now find something else better to do with your time then sit on a website and harass people

p.s. we cant all be supra electrical experts that sit on the internet and post on websites, I'll be sure to let you know where I am practicing so you can drive by and wave
 

jetjock

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#35
Uh, and I'm supposed to feel what exactly? Sure, I'm the resident asshole. Kind of like it that way too. The management and others here are free to vote me off the island any time they like. Even the punk fat Asian kid gets a vote.

I was trying to save you both work and cash (since you've whined about how little of both you have) but what really irks me is when people I try and help don't listen. You think I don't have better things to do? I'm here because I work very little making more than you'll see slaving 100 hours/week in some residency. You're right though, in that I shouldn't be wasting time on morons and frankly you come across as one in every thread you've made. Diagnostic, listening, and critical thinking skills all suck. Based on that you'll make a great MD. Ah well. I tried, as did others. It'll be my pleasure watching you flounder from here on.
 

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#36
:biglaugh:

I hope you won't be too upset if I'm the first to use your quote in my sig cuz I still luv ya.:love:





:rofl:
 
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