Engine Block: how do I proceed?

finaltable

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(My apologies if this is wrong forum.)

My uncle says after getting the head off and machined due to a BHG, the block is pitted and needs work. One option is buy a clean block if I can get one or buy the most stripped 7M-GTE complete engine I can to drop in since the rest of the car is good. Alternately, if the block has to come out is this time to replace with something completely different like a 1JZ or 1UZ?

I don't care about going fast; I want a working daily driver.

Thoughts?
 

Abe's 1987

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What is your goal is the major question! Keep everything stock? Get the most reliability? More power? Less power? Gas milage a factor? You like V8 or I6? Going manual or sticking with auto?

Does your uncle have wiring skills? Have your uncle ever dropped an engine from one car into another? Can your uncle get his hands on a cheaper 1jz or 1uz?
 

finaltable

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My goal is to get a daily driver out of this. for the least I can. I don’t care about anything being stock and don’t care about speed. One of his employees is a wizard when it comes to anything electric in a car. I’m not trying to do this on the cheap; I budgeted several thousand dollars for this and I am trying to look at the big picture. I can get a complete 7M-GTE engine for about $3,200 including shipping. I can have him pull the engine and have the block worked on (I don’t know the cost of this) but both solutions leave me with a 7M. I can get a 1JZ for about $3500 so unless I can find one cheap this is an expensive solution given that I will have to get a wiring harness for over $1,000. On the other hand, I can get a 1UZ for about $1500 and a wiring harness for $1200. The UZ is a much newer engine so long term I should be able to keep it going much longer than a 7M.

I need to ask him if he has even done a non-standard engine swap. I know he does swaps because he has talked about putting new engines in Suburbans, Explorers and even a Porsche 924S but in all cases the new engine was an engine that had been in that car from the factory. With a “How to” guide I am sure he could do it, but if it needed fabrication of custom parts I don’t know.
 
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Koenigturbo

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If it were my car:: I think if I were you, first wait and see what your machinist says about the block then, if it can salvageable I would go with that, if it is bad news for your block then, I would go to your nearest JDM "Japanese Engines Are Us" shop and get an engine from Japan, don't hold me to this but supposedly" in Japan, smog is very strict there they discard engines at around thirty thousand miles. I bought a 7 M GTE engine from a place like from a place I described and it ran well, I paid five hundred bucks for it, unfortunately, that was a long time ago, now they are a lot more, here's is a link to a shop in California, there should be the same type of shop near you::: here shows a 2 JZ VVTI for a tad over a grand. Rent a pick up truck and go get it. "I'm not trying to do this on the cheap" yeah we know, tell us about it.

 
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finaltable

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That is almost exactly how the conversation went. We're going to look at this block and see if it is salvageable. If it will be a lot of work I know where I can get a used block as "Plan B." Unfortunately, a JDM 7M is not really a thing anymore, sadly.

Fortunately, for me, I am reasonably well compensated. I could afford a Mark V, if I wanted one, but what I want is a targa roof 2+2 and that is a car that no longer is being built by anybody. My only option was to restore one so that is what I am doing. I still don't want to waste money though.
 

Abe's 1987

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So yes japan does has way more strick emissions then we do and yes they do scrap the engines at low mileage i.e. send their engines to other parts of the world. So if your looking for long term reliability id definitely go with 2jz or 1uz.
 

JDMMA70

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Jesus people still peddle the Japan strict emission myth. Maybe if the engine came from a scrapyard in Tokyo or Osaka where people dont drive as much, Id have an easier time believing the milage. However people drive just as much in Japan as we do in the states. Unless you get an engine with a confirmed odometer reading from a car with a matching frame number, I wouldn't trust the milage. Shaken (Japanese Vehicle Inspection) is not difficult to pass, and the emission section of it varies by the age of the vehicle. On a car as old as the Supra or Soarer they can emit a max of something like 1300ppm of HC.

Im with CajunKenny too, I'm also curious as to what the deck surface looks like.

My $0.02 about the 1UZ is that, everyone likes them until they have to work on one. Like replacing the starter *nightmares*
 

JustAnotherVictim

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7m is perfectly reliable if it's fixed correctly, you can't cheap out on work or parts though.
If you don't have to worry about smog a 1j or 2j is fine as well.
Throw up some photos of the block.
You might also consider starting a build thread since you keep starting new posts that keep coming back to your engine build or swap questions.
Easier for people to help as all the info will be in one place.
 
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Z06gette

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My coolant jackets looked really pitted when I did my rebuild this year. After having the block decked and cleaned it was all good, looked worse than it was.
 

finaltable

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My uncle is handling all this so I won’t get pictures of the interim work; I will just get a finished car back. He drove it previously, that is how he discovered the BHG, and said it ran well so he doesn’t think the block damage can be very bad