Dual Brake Master Cylinder

black ice mike

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Hey guys, I'm looking at redoing most of my brakes, lines, master cylinder, pads, etc. I'm looking at getting the ARZ 4 piston brakes all around and the Ward Auto Racing ABS delete kit since I've deleted my ABS unit and I was thinking about ditching the stock proportioning valve and going with a dual master cylinder. I was wondering if I would need to delete the brake booster since I would have a little better control with the dual master cylinder. I was looking into either a Wilwood master cylinder or a Tiltion master cylinder. I was thinking of getting a 7/8" master cylinder over a 1". I've added a few Mater cylinders that I'd been looking at that I thought would be a good fit. Has anyone done this before, any ideas as to where to start off?

76-Series-Master-Cylinder.jpg
Tilton 76 Series

78-Series-master-cylinder.jpg
Tilton 78 Series

Wilwood Compact GS remote.jpg
Wilwood GS Compact Remote Master Cylinder

Wilwood GS compact integral.jpg
Wilwood GS Compact Integral Master cylinder
 

figgie

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Even with a dual cylinder (if you look at ours stock brake cylinder, it is dual) you will need a brake proportioning valve to get the correct front/rear bias dialed in. the stock one is a good starting point.

on the lines, why not create new ones from scratch for all 4 corners?
 

black ice mike

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I did some more research and figured that I'd need a balance bar to go along with the dual masters. I could always get a remote bias adjuster to adjust brake bias on the fly if needed. That's what I'd end up doing if I went with the dual masters is just make 4 new lines that went to the brakes.
However after speaking with the guys at Arizona Performance I think I'm going to keep the stock master cylinder for the time being since it is a good starting point and it will handle their 6 piston brakes with no issues.
 
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black ice mike

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Something worth noting, after speaking to the guys at Arizona Performance, they told me to not keep the stock proportioning valve. They said that it will lock the rear brakes up first and that you will crash. So now I'm looking into getting a new proportioning valve that I can plumb into the cabin and adjust on the fly if needed. They also recommended that you keep the ABS in the car if you can, as it works very well with their brakes. Just some info thought y'all might like to know, if you didn't know already.
 

Asterix

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My Supra locks up the passenger side front wheel first (on dry pavement) with the same pad material on all 4 corners.

These cars are not badly biased towards the rear like newer cars. My 2004 350Z is terrible, which I fixed by putting different brake pads front and rear.
 

black ice mike

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Good to know, I wonder why they said that the car would lock up the rear wheels causing a crash if I keep the stock valve
 

Asterix

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I would guess because so many cars today are biased to the rear. Why they say that would cause a crash is a mystery to me, as biasing to the rear makes the car more stable.

With ABS, the rears won't lock up. That's what ABS does.
 

figgie

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I would guess because so many cars today are biased to the rear. Why they say that would cause a crash is a mystery to me, as biasing to the rear makes the car more stable.

With ABS, the rears won't lock up. That's what ABS does.

ABS becomes the bias system which is dynamic and instead of just front & rear, now it can also do right & left bias.

It is the corner stone for modern day stability control systems.
 

hvyman

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ive done it. tilton master cylinders and balance bar. you dont run a booster with this type of setup. i had no abs. 15" front brakes 6 piston brembo front and 14" rear brakes with 4 piston brembo.

also if you have never driven a car with brakes like this, when your not moving very fast you have to push on brakes hard. but once moving its super easy.