Check out this sweet bondo shell

87supramario

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#1
I picked up this baby from a driveway 30 minutes away from town. No rust :naughty:











It has some small damage to the front corner. Previous owner hit a rock at the end of his driveway cracking the mustang front bumper where it meets the passenger fender at the top. :nono: First thing I did, I tinted the pre 89 tails to look JDM.







I want to drop a fast engine in this sweet looking 1986.5 five spd. Maybe get some new tires for the 16 inch wheels or get a 3inch exhaust with aftermarket hanger. What do you guys think?
 
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miekedmr

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#5
gonzy I don't think that "body kit" is going anywhere. There's probably 100lb of bondo on that thing.

Not something I'd do to a car but it does seem pretty clean aside from the crack.

I think some lowering springs or coilovers and lower offset wheels would be a big improvement to the look. Right now the wheel gap is kinda large.

Anyway congrats, hope it treats you well (and vice versa)
 

#04

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#6
which side of niagara falls? the pretty side or the other one...?


is your thread title intended to be sarcastic? its always hard to tell in text form...
 

87supramario

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#9
Hahah we don't have laws that apply to this here. I'm planning on filling out the wells with 265/40R18 in rear and something like 255/35 in the front and this should be this winter.

Should I turbo my 7MGE? I have been looking at this tranny to replace the w58 with, it's out of a 5 spd jeep I'm thinking about using this for turbo application they look the same
 

87supramario

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#13
Interesting find you have there... I'm definitely looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
Alright I'm done trolling :) This is my supramania build thread. Updates will be coming as the build continues. Right now I'm in the final stages of collecting parts for my 1jz swap. But anyways...










So here is me in 2009 inspecting the damages. The previous owner had a shop do all the work and the work was complete crap. The shop has cut the ends of the steel bumper support to fit the mustang bumper. They used unknown signal lights (from a trailer?) and one of the bolts has burnt out and this was one of the 2 reasons why I started this resurrection when I did. Also, the 3 nose support mounts were all twisted out of shape because the shop did not mount the nose properly, so I bent these back into shape. One bad surprise was the fact that pop rivets where used to hold the base of the fenders in place instead of the original bolts! From this point I was hoping they didn't use pop rivets for other things while piercing the chassis, they did but only on panels that were later replaced.

This was also the day after purchasing a JDM front nose conversion from a local guy named Anil for $100. Came with bumpers, JDM bubble side markers, 89+ signal lights, a pair of fog light assembly, steel bumper support bar and one passenger fender with minor dents. Good thing I got the steel support bar because I didn't expect to find mine chopped up.

This was also the day I took a grinder to separate the Mustang/Civic/Accord aftermarket bumper from the fenders to sell to a local for $50.







 
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87supramario

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#14
This next set of pictures was done just after purchasing a 89+ tail set from a local part out. Came from a Black 89 turbo. I got the rear bumper, 3 piece tail lights and spoiler for $160. Before I had ripped off the front end, me and my brother had removed the rear bumper already and we found the original bumper under the aftermarket! Both attached weighed at least 75 pounds when we removed it from the car. I mean... ripped off the car I should say.

Notice the body trim being revealed :)













New wheels, spoiler set adapted. Found only the original pre 89 body trim on the driver's door under the bondo rusting. Lucky I was able to remove the rust by sanding and as you can see I was spreading a coat of primer on the car as I go to temporarily protect the bare metal from the elements till paint.

But I'm going to leave it at that! I'm heading out to bed. Will update the rest of my project soon of every detail that I have up to date. A lot of the members here have witness this project go down in first hand on SF years back. Just thought I would share it with the rest of you members on here just to show what I had to deal with ;)
 
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87supramario

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#19
Thanks guys. At the point of the second last photo in post 14 (that was taken in 2009-2010), this was when things where looking up. I have not found any rust or dents or body patches on this car. And since I live in Canada, this 1986.5 MA70 of this shape is something you don't see very often. Of course I'm talking about the finished product. :D

Now I wish I had gone for Teal like I had once thought of doing because 202 Toyota Black is defficult to keep clean. And the color transition would have been easier to go Teal since the car was already Blue since birth.

Here are some more old updates.














This was the prep part. I had a guy prep and paint under the table wich was a mistake. The body work was flawless but fish eye and dust had landed all over the front clip when wet and the body guy promissed to re do the front clip, I noticed the paint started to crack in few spots once I started driving it in the summer. Seems like the high build primer needed more time to shrink in the cold. It needed time to shrink in the heat to complete.

Once I had pointing out some other flaws around the car he fucked off and skipped town. In the mean while I had a friend who was having his Civic hatch back painted. Cost him $1500 to have it painted including the cost of paint, body work, storage, prep, spay, everything and he prove it all winter long and summer long for 3 years with no flaws. So I may have the car painted Teal in the future by this shop. The said few cracks are small and has not gone any worse for a year but they bug the shit out of me when I wash the car after ever rainny day.
 
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Insidious Surmiser

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#22
not bad how'd it turn out? much dust in the paint? (or any at all?)

I figured if I got down to doing this I'd try and wet down the walls at least, be good to have vacuum and filtration... but I havn't quite laid that out in my head
 

87supramario

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#30
Hahah thanks guys. I figured since it is hard pressed for me to find a clean solid body out here, that this would have been a good route for me since the odds of finding a clean MKIII of the color I wanted with non fadded paint is next to none. But I wish this was an 89+ and turbo model to start with since I was hoping on going turbo someday.

not bad how'd it turn out? much dust in the paint? (or any at all?)

I figured if I got down to doing this I'd try and wet down the walls at least, be good to have vacuum and filtration... but I havn't quite laid that out in my head
It didn't turn out the best. The trick about using this high build primer is to give it all the time it needs to shrink. We gave it a month before laying out the paint. But because it was winter and the garage was not always heated, I'm positive that the cold is the reason why it has a few cracks to pop up in the paint in the summer when I was driving it.

It came with a few fish eyes and dust in the paint. The car didn't turn out to be perfect after all. But after wet sanding it and buffing everything but the fish eye came off. The front clip has fish eye all over it because the paint guy had to open a window to air out the space. He has a gas heater so he could not simply have it running while using non water born paint without the garage exploding.

He promised to repaint the front clip but he fucked off town.

If you do perform this yourself, you will be paying 500-1500 on the cost of paint and another 500 for the clear alone. Have the ceilling watered down as well at the walls and everything else in the garage. Make sure to clean the car and the vent area between the front windshield and the hood of the car because a lot of dust and dirt collects there that people aways forget about. Make sure the space is at a nice tempurature because if it's too cold it will cause the paint to orange peal and not come out smooth. Never paint a car that has been armer all'ed because the airborn cylicone particules will get attracted to the paint and cause fish eye. Fish eye simply looks like someone has dropped a couple of drops of paint on the fresh paint but this is something you may not remove by wet sanding. The cylicone gets under the wet paint to cause it to rise this way. Armer All would linger all over the interior of the car and work space for as long as a month airborn.

I got fish eye on my car because of him opening the window to air out the space. Something from outside got attracted and he did not have proper filtration. You should also get a paint suit. Black is the more difficult color to paint because it will reveal all the flaws you left from body work or prep like feathering from using sand paper grid too aggressive without going back over it with a high grid. Once you think you have the prep just right, go over it with a wet cloth and the gloss from it being wet will reveal many things you wouldn't have seen till after you lay out the paint. Wetting the surface smooth will give you a preview of how the texture of the final product would come out as.
 

87supramario

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#31
So these next pictures where taken in the spring of 2011 after winter storage and paint. Sorry about not bringing these up earlier lol


Eibach springs and more assembly






More assembly + stock 89 lip + photoshoot!
















 

87supramario

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#33
So about this 7MGE and W58, it's leaking of oil and coolent (in the spark plug valley) and oil in other places. But instead of a rebuild I have a replacement. And this replacement is also a great contender to those non Supra owners around here. ;)



This landed on my property around July of this past summer.






For $1900
-used full 1jzgte rear sump w/r154 and everything in between (flywheel, PP, spec clutch, etc)
-stock engine harness
-stock m/t ecu
-STEALTH tuned 650cc JZA70 ecu
-(6) 650cc injectors in rail w/stock regulator
-T78 greddy turbo kit (Mitsubishi T78 turbo and single greddy manifold)
-DM light weight pulleys
-Titan cam gears (stock cams)
-USDM water pump assy
-engine stand
+ tons of new parts like timming belt, therm., the other belt for no A/C, clutch slave, etc.

The only thing I was missing was the valley cover and timing cover. But I got this engine swap from someone who has it sitting in his 240sx and because he kept the rear sump assy he chopped the oil pan to clear cross member. I had this pan replaced to spec. He also modified the oil pick up tube but it looks fine he just brought it closer to the front of the oil pan. But the oil pan he made was missing at least a quart and a quarter of oil and did not have a drain plug. This is funny but alright because I was going to get another pan to have that quart + oil back for this BPU engine. Last time it ran it was putting down 400-450whp at around 14-16 psi.

First thing I did was to strip the valve covers and paint them 202 Toyota Black to match my car. Then also stripped the block surface of any grime and dirt and painted it platnium silver'ish blue (came out differently then the cap the spray can came with but oh well. I think the platinum blue will stand out from the 202 Black engine bay.




















I painted the valley cover bed liner satan/flat black. Just a different texture and shade then the valve covers to have it pop out more. Intercooler piping will be all Satan Black, I have a black Mishimoto intercooler already. Intake manifold and runners will be hot tanked to be cleaned to look new. I will just clean off the turbo myself by hand instead of taking it apart. The greddy manifold may also be hot tanked and then heat wrappe as well as the waste gate tubes, dump tube and downpipe. Right now I have a 3 inch cat back with high flow cat and SS mendro bends with v clamps and a huge muffler in the back. Got a one peice steel D/S also. This thing should sound mean as well as looking sharp when the swap is finally done.

At the moment I am still trying to figure out where I'm doing the swap. The car will be off the road shortly, at the moment it's my daily. Once the 7M and W58 is out I want to presure wash it all and everything will be available.
 

87supramario

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#34
I took these on my way back home from a roadtrip this past summer in New Brunswick, Canada just 30 kilometers East past St. Quinten.











Right now the car has OEM fogs and 89+ euro signals with stock grills but soon to be pre 89 euro signals with custom stock grills to fill in the last little gap. The 3 peice tail set will be opened up and cleaned about as well as the internals painted to match the center and buffed out to look good a as new!

Once the car is getting the engine replaced I will remove these wheels and get rid of them and get staggered wheels with a lot more meat in the back and to fill the wells flush to the fender lines.
 

Maple191

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#35
I remember seeing this car on Craigslist and Kijiji back in 2011 when I was looking for my car at the time in the GTA section.
 

87supramario

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#40
I wouldnt trust that oil pick up, try to find your self a new one.

I cant get over how well your car looks in those pics, it looks so nice!
I have been thinking about this myself. Do you think it's long enough to reach in the oil pool to a decent dept? I pulled it off to inspect and clean and the welds sealed the seem. But I never checked to see how far it will go in the pool of oil.





Hey 87supramario. Car looks much better to my eyes, post kit removal. I got got. ;)

Do you have a higher resolution version of this one?
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n152/fournier4life/photoshoots/IMG_0507.jpg
I want to add it to my backgrounds at work.
Ahh no I don't actually :( I took these photo's with simple cameras and edit them for the extra sharpness. But I have a pretty friend who does modeling and she actually has her own equipment to do photoshoots with the fash embrellas and everything so I will be doing another photoshoot this summer with the 1jz and her probably haha



Damn the last picture looks awesome
Thanks guys! I can't wait to drive this set up and to get better wheels