It's working right now. If it is the root cause, it's not behaving like it. If the circuit fails again, that is where I will start. I do happen to have several spare/used switches available, if needed.And if the ignition switch is the root cause of the problem? Do you know that it isn't?
Well said!The thing that worries me here is that you have removed only one wear item from the circuit, the starter relay, which I would assume you have already tested so that wasn't the issue. The other two are the IGN switch and the starter contacts. Both of which could still be an issue. Like Pi said, you might only be masking the problem. It could very well come back. Also the factory starter relay only exists to give the clutch switch and theft deterrent computer easy disable control over the start circuit. The addition of a relay in a bypass circuit is pointless, ST1 was designed to carry both the inductive and switched loads of the start circuit. Unless it's to boost power to the system adding a relay to a bypass circuit merely adds failure points where there doesn't need to be any. And if the relay was added to boost power to the start circuit, then that indicates degradation of the ST1 circuit. Meaning that again, you are only masking a problem, and it will reappear at some point as the system continues into entropy.
The second point I would like to make is that even if this situation is unique to you, and the best solution for you. People with similar problem will come and see that someone got their desired effect, and attempt the same solution. Ignoring proper troubleshooting, ignoring any attempt to solve the problem and not the symptom, and missing out on a good learning experience for proper maintenance of their car, that will benefit them and keep their car on the road longer with true repairs and not band aid fixes.
You know I really shouldn't be surprised that you would think this way, but somehow I still am.I can't figure out what all the fuss is about in this thread. Take the info provided and use it if you so please... You can hate the idea all you want, you don't have to use it nor is it your responsibility to make sure nobody else does, people can make that choice for themselves.
The big issue is that this isn't a solution to a problem. It is a solution to a symptom. And since the base problem has not been solved it stands to reason that it will return with more symptoms. With people who followed the guide, coming back later after having them fail again, and saying the MKIII's have weak/faulty electrical systems, when that is not the case at all. The MKIII has weak/faulty owners who can't be bothered to troubleshoot and repair a problem correctly. Also pros and cons of resolving an issue are irrelevant until you get past the first level of problem solving, right or wrong methods. Once you choose right or wrong, you move to the next level, the one most people seem to have the most trouble with, proper or half-assed.Its a suggested resolution to a problem and nothing more. I think we can agree that this is not the way you should do a "proper fix", but in a lot of cases it works and for some people that's enough. There are pros and cons to both ways of resolving the issue.
It's the electrical equivalent of fixing it with duct tape.I can't figure out what all the fuss is about in this thread. Take the info provided and use it if you so please... You can hate the idea all you want, you don't have to use it nor is it your responsibility to make sure nobody else does, people can make that choice for themselves. Its a suggested resolution to a problem and nothing more. I think we can agree that this is not the way you should do a "proper fix", but in a lot of cases it works and for some people that's enough. There are pros and cons to both ways of resolving the issue.
Amps or Volts?Not saying it couldn't be the starter, but it is pretty new. It has no problem starting when the engine is cool or cooler. When this happens, my turbo timer, which displays battery voltage shows 10-11 amps only. Connected right after the ignition. It will a
Most always eventually start, but sometimes it takes a while. Could this be a starter relay problem even though it is only when warm(as far as I can tell so far), or ignition, or?...
i agree with you on that point. my question is WHY they are going bad so frequently. a attribute it to th excess heat under the hood. although i am open to any other ideas.Correction by tapping indicates worn brushes and/or worn solenoid contacts, both of which can be replaced. And while they can be at fault for the problem talked about in this thread they seldom are.
Amen! I went through the hit-the-starter-with-a-wrench phase too. New OEM starter was the solution.Aftermarket starters and alternators are complete junk now a days.
ftfydid the relay and it is now hacked.
Does it simply click, or do you get nothing? If it's clicking and still not starting, it's possibly the contacts (later style contacts are longer and don't wear as fast). If it's not clicking at all, it could be the plunger was installed dry and it's sticking, or the relay/wiring is bad.whatever is causing the problem, this fucking bosh starter i bought is worse than the cheap autozone one i had before. it almost left me stranded 3 times today. wtf!!!