When you find the 50thou lift points do you have to subtract the tappet clearance??IJ. said:
are the threads on the bolt long enough to reach the crank? when rotating the motor, wouldn't it just tighten the degree wheel more, causing it to bend?amichie said:When you find the 50thou lift points do you have to subtract the tappet clearance??
So if your tappet clearance is 8 thou should you degree it at 42 thou valve lift or 50 thou valve lift??
understood, thanks. looks like you can get degree wheels fairly cheaply on ebay. I assume the step is very shallow, less than the thickness of the wheel, so it is held tightly?IJ. said:TS: Yep just machined a step on the back of the Bolt so the wheel centres perfectly bolt it down then line the pointer up to true TDC 0 and it's good to go
The bigger diameter the wheel the easier it is to read accurately.
I hope I kept that old crank pulley bolt. I'll have my machine shop machine a step for me when I get closer to assembly time. Thanks again IJ, you are very helpful.IJ. said:Steve: Correct it's just a pilot, from memory about 1mm the wheel I have is 3mm.
Hi ShredderTire Shredder said:update? how's the car running? I'm very interested since the cams I plan to install in my 7mge will be very similar.
What kind of springs are you using Cuel?cuel said:Ha ha... Mine are sitting in my tool box awaiting valve springs so the head can go to the shop(I get them next week). I was seriously thinking about getting different cams, to. Meh, we'll see what happens...
There are 2 ways to run past the 5500 shift point on the Cressida auto.amichie said:It's a a shame it wont let it run out a little further because it is pulling very strongly at 5500rpm.
Looks good!!! I have the Wiseco 10.5 pistons with a stroker kit. 12.5's , racing gas?Were did you get your 70mm TB?7M-fanatic said:There are 2 ways to run past the 5500 shift point on the Cressida auto.
Without any ECU changes, hold the car in first.
The trans will not go to second,
if you have the lever all the way down in first (Low).
But because of the time delay built into the ECU, if you wait till 6500 to click the car into second,
you will over rev, and bounce off the rev limiter.
Using a shift light, try to shift at about 5700.
The delay will let the engine rev all the way to 6500-6700 if you hit it just right.
Takes some practice, and not all of them will have the exact same delay.
But it will hit second so hard, it will break the tires loose (or the right motor mount....).
This is why I now have Kazama mounts in my car, got tired of popping that damn expensive mount!!
Send your ECU off to Kieth Goldin in Florida, and he will change the 3 clock crystals in it.
He had me take a high res picture of the board before accepting mine.
(he had never done a Cressida ECU before)
Once he looked it over, he said 'No Problem'.
He asked me where I wanted the rev limiter, and I asked for 7500.
Sent it off with $110, and had it back in a week.
Plugged it in, and with the car in nuetral, slowly brought the RPM up.
6500, 7000, 7500, 8000, and beyond......
Evidentally, his figures were a bit off.
But this didn't bother me, I going with a Crane Hi-6, that has it's own dial-in rev limiter.
But (here is the good part),
The tranny no longer shifts at such a low RPM, in ALL the gears !
In fact, I had to slack off the kick down cable to get it to shift to 3rd without going over 8500 !
Who says a 7M won't rev !!
(not that stock cams made much power up that high, they fell a little short past 7000.)
But with HKS 256 cams, the 12.5: Cosworth pistons, headers, and a 70mm throttle, that sucker reved cleanly to 8500.
The engine is down again because of a rod bearing failure while trying to get the cheap-ass rings I got off eBay to seat-in with 5w30 oil - BAD idea.
Felt the rod start locking up just past 8000.
By the time I got it slowed down, it had pushed a lot of trash through the whole engine.
But I am now going with a set of 264x272 cams, and Wiseco 10.5 pistons.
Now if I can just get valves to work with these damn TODA shim-under buckets, I'll have it back together shortly (without the cheap-ass 'ROCK' rings from eBay - Sh#, I know better than that!
PS, there are some tricks to get the car to launch a lot harder also, but that is another story.......
No just good pump gas.....AJ'S 88NA said:Looks good!!! I have the Wiseco 10.5 pistons with a stroker kit. 12.5's , racing gas?Were did you get your 70mm TB?
1. Yes, I can run a much LARGER K&N filter.amichie said:7M-Fanatic
Your engine bay looks great. Couple of questions.
1. Any advantage in moving the AFM closer?
2. What cams have you got in there?
3. Is your ACIS functioning? Mine runs off a switch light acctuator that opens it at 4200rpm.
4. Have you dynoed this car? If so what sort of results have you had.