Bottom end overhaul - what to use? Upgraded oil pump, what else?

E_S

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Well, bottom end needs an overhaul.

7M-GTE, stock, will stay that way.

No plans of tuning, but I need an engine that can handle German Autobahn driving without any problems, which means sustained full throttle and 5000+ rpm. (for the German-speaking of you: Vollgasfest)

So far I just have the following items on my list except stuff like bearings, gaskets, seals etc:

- Driftmotion upgraded oil pump
- New bolts for piston oil squirters (31 year old valves are maybe not too good anymore)

I have also read something about a pickup tube that is recommended to replace. Which part is this?

What about oil cooler? Is the stock system sufficient for sustained full throttle runs on warm summer days, or should it be upgraded?
 

plaaya69

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This is a larger oil pick up tube made by ARZ. DriftMotion makes a similar piece that is a SS braided hose but the ARZ one is a much better piece to use:



You should also replace the 2 bearings in the block for the oil pump driveshaft, shim the oil pump (ARZ included 5mm worth of shims when I ordered their oil pick up tube on their site) as well as look into a upgraded oil pump driveshaft retention plate. There is a few different versions of this retention plate:



You might want to look into modifying the stock oil pan so it can hold more oil seeing how you will be on the track more. See reference picture:



Overall this is a good thread with very good information on the 7m oil issues and how to help prevent them:

 
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JustAnotherVictim

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Personally I would get an aftermarket oil cooler, with larger diameter lines. More cooling capacity is never a bad thing unless you never get to normal operating temps.

I have the ARZpipe on my car. Oil pressure at idle now sits between 15-20psi consistently. I can't recall if the pump was changed out also.
Didn't do the retention plate but yes on the bearings, haven't had an oiling issue going 7 years now.
 
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Clip

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I used the Driftmotion modified oil pump and their stainless braided line to replace the pickup tube when I rebuilt my GE and pressure is at 20psi idle, at least 40 when off idle.

On the GTE I just rebuilt and put in the car I left the stock pump and pipe that looked like it had been replaced recently, looked like the previous owner modified the banjo bolt for more flow too. Instead of washers, I turned some steel rod down to the bypass diameter and 5mm length, cut some slots into my driveshaft retention plate to aid in oiling the thrust surface as well, and just finished my upgraded cooling circuit this afternoon. We'll see how it does when I finally start break-in.
 

Koenigturbo

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What about changing the head bolts to ARP and add a metal head gasket and retorquing bolts to at least 75 lbs.
 
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debrucer

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What about changing the head bolts to ARP and add a metal head gasket and retorquing bolts to at least 75 lbs.
I forget your setup, but are you aware of the machining requirement and the roughness average (RA) factor?

It's not easy to search for because "RA" is too short, but i know there are posts out here for it. Basically, I believe the implication is that if you are doing a metal head gasket you must do specific machining.
 

JDMMA70

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If the block deck is confirmed flat with a machinist straight edge, and the factory head gasket didnt imprint deep grooves in the deck surface. You can get away with lapping the deck surface with a lapping plate, and just machine/rebuild the head. But considering its coming out anyways, machining the deck is the way to go.
 
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E_S

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Thanks for all your replies. Both head and block will be done by professionals to assure the best seal.

I have been looking at sandwich plates with thermostat to install a decent oil cooler. Plan is junking the pressure-controlled original setup and going with one of those and a cooler, and getting lines made locally with correct fittings. I don't trust that hose clamp thing. :p

I have found a cooler that is 235 x 67 x 50 mm. For you US guys, that will be something like 9" wide, 2,7" tall and 2" thick. This is the actual cooling area, not including tanks, brackets and connections. Is this big enough, or should I go for a bigger cooler?
 

Koenigturbo

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I forget your setup, but are you aware of the machining requirement and the roughness average (RA) factor?

It's not easy to search for because "RA" is too short, but i know there are posts out here for it. Basically, I believe the implication is that if you are doing a metal head gasket you must do specific machining.
No I wasn't aware of that, thanks for letting me know. then my car is done wrong since I didn't do any of that. I only did the head but I didn't deck the block. I hope I'm not trouble in the future. My set up:: 57 trim wheel and maybe running 15 psi, if that. stock timing as of now.
 

E_S

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By the way, where to get the oil pump drive shaft bearings? I understood they are NLA from Toyota..
 

JDMMA70

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By the way, where to get the oil pump drive shaft bearings? I understood they are NLA from Toyota..
You can get them from Taiho (may be sold under Dura-Bond), they make the bearings P/N are TOG-9-1 and TOG-9-2
 
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debrucer

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No I wasn't aware of that, thanks for letting me know. then my car is done wrong since I didn't do any of that. I only did the head but I didn't deck the block. I hope I'm not trouble in the future. My set up:: 57 trim wheel and maybe running 15 psi, if that. stock timing as of now.
@JDMMA70 responded with more easily obtainable limits using a machinist flat edge, but if the block never left the car, and you did the work, you know how well it was checked. There used to be pictures here of various RA examples. I haven't found the thread though.
 

sinistar_xx

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@JDMMA70 responded with more easily obtainable limits using a machinist flat edge, but if the block never left the car, and you did the work, you know how well it was checked. There used to be pictures here of various RA examples. I haven't found the thread though.
Using your definition of RA as "roughness average" (I'm otherwise not familiar with the term), that pulls up what appears to be a good number of hits that also include "RA". Any of those what you were looking for?
 

debrucer

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Using your definition of RA as "roughness average" (I'm otherwise not familiar with the term), that pulls up what appears to be a good number of hits that also include "RA". Any of those what you were looking for?
The ones with pictures, side-by-side for comparison. I did search the full term, and there were several pages of hits. I don't need it myself, but, people doing this kind of job might like to see it. My block was done :)
 
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Thanks for all your replies. Both head and block will be done by professionals to assure the best seal.

I have been looking at sandwich plates with thermostat to install a decent oil cooler. Plan is junking the pressure-controlled original setup and going with one of those and a cooler, and getting lines made locally with correct fittings. I don't trust that hose clamp thing. :p

I have found a cooler that is 235 x 67 x 50 mm. For you US guys, that will be something like 9" wide, 2,7" tall and 2" thick. This is the actual cooling area, not including tanks, brackets and connections. Is this big enough, or should I go for a bigger cooler?
If you're using a thermostat, bigger is never worse. I think your measurements match with a 10 row, I went with a 16 row cooler in roughly the stock location.:




 
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E_S

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Thanks! Found the bearings! :)

Now another question: That retainer plate for the oil pump drive shaft. What to do there? I see upgraded parts with needle bearings - yay or nay? The OE part is, like anything else in that area, no longer available.
 

Enraged

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I would suggest go either stock, or the needle bearing from Technico http://technicoracing.com/cs/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=293

I have the Technico for my rebuild.

There is another version from Punch Out Performance where he's ground grooves into a chromoly bearing, but based on sixpacks opinion on Supraforums of those, I would stay away:

"And that grooved retainer that Beach was making was a brick short of a load.....
He tried to copy what I was doing, and didn't understand why my groves were angled.
They were angled, and had that placement so that the turning shaft would draw oil in from the top of the back side, and then out to the bearing surface.
He had 6 groves just criss-crossing the plate. "
 

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"And that grooved retainer that Beach was making was a brick short of a load.....
He tried to copy what I was doing, and didn't understand why my groves were angled.
They were angled, and had that placement so that the turning shaft would draw oil in from the top of the back side, and then out to the bearing surface.
He had 6 groves just criss-crossing the plate. "
If you want to wait for a good show, I'm about a week away from starting my rebuild with the sixpack grooves. Will it run well? Will it eat itself? Who knows?
 
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Mk3me

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I also have the arz oil line and agree it's a well made part. You might wanna replace your oil squirters while your at it. The springs inside them wear out over time and end up squirting oil before they should dropping the oil pressure a bit. Also look into the quake mod on supra forms. It's gives the nut on the head studs a more solid area to grab preventing the soft aluminum from crushing in a little.
 
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Enraged

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Amayama still sells the squirter bolts, I bought them awhile ago.

The quake mod is the pressed in hardened ARP washers, right? I've got those too to go on. They do require machine work to install, from what I understand.
 

Z06gette

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I had my machinist do both the quake and zulu mods. The arp inserts do have to have the head machined. I also had him add two small ~1/4" holes in the head behind cylinder 6. IMO you cant over insure yourself when spending as much as a rebuild costs.
 

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I remember reading both for and against the Zulu mod, and the against argument was very strong. Too bad I can't remember it right now.
 

Z06gette

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I thoroughly read over the threads, the argument not to do it is Toyota designed it that way so why disturb the flow of coolant.. The counter to that is yes, but head gaskets blow consistently on cyl 5&6 from excessive heat. The block has the coolant passage behind cyl 6, but for whatever reason the jacket wasn't actually drilled into the head YET any head gasket has a water jacket there w/ no passage. This mod simply adds the passage allowing cyl 6 to be cooled.
Personally, I can't see how this would hurt and seemingly everyone that asked questions or helped answer my questions said " you're adding zulu mod right?" Lots of high horsepower builds with this mod. I found no available heuristics of a failure caused by anyone doing it either.
 

Z06gette

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Seems like Quake mod failures have more to do with having heads that are too annealed already to begin with than the inserts actually digging in when torqueing.
 

plaaya69

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Amayama still sells the squirter bolts, I bought them awhile ago.

The quake mod is the pressed in hardened ARP washers, right? I've got those too to go on. They do require machine work to install, from what I understand.
Here is some pics on the quake mod. They sell the ARP 200-8574 inserts in 10 packs so you need 2. I am very happy with how this mod turned out but I had to use my local tool shop to get these installed. Someone used to loan out a special reamer tool on SF to install these but that option is long gone :(