BosoMKII's project! 56k cut your head off

BosoMKII

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We have now caught up with the present.

I've checked the mechanical ignition timing, and all seems right. However, when I line up the gear mark to the notch on the distributor, the rotor moves one "click" to the right when putting the dizzy back into the head. Why does that happen? Does that make my dizzy off by one tooth?

Fuel pressure pegs at 73psi !! Maybe I need to replace the fuel lines with larger pipes.

So, that's where I am now. I am happy with how much progress I've made on this 8 year engine swap, and also very frustrated because I feel like I'm SO close to hearing the motor run but held up by I don't know what!
 

andrew_mx83

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The dizzy rotates during installation due to the helical gear engagement. You just take it into account when you slide it in (a bit of twisting by hand will help it slide in easier too)

Forget the gear marks, best bet is to start installing it with the rotor button pointing about vertical, then as it rotates and seats home the rotor should point at the top right threaded hole where the cap screws in (engine at tdc). If it is off by a decent amount, pull the dizzy out slowly, feel it rotate backwards and just as you feel the gears come apart turn the rotor a little bit by hand and then slide it back in. Repeat until the rotor points roughly at the threaded hole once it has rotated itself around. Hope that makes sense.

Oh, and your ecu is fucked. Replace it...
 

BosoMKII

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Thanks for the tips. Yes your description makes sense. I'll re-do the dizzy tomorrow if I can get to it.

Already replaced the ECU.

I figure I need to go through the FSM no-start check procedure step by step until I figure out what's wrong, including testing for compression.

But first I feel like I really need to get the fuel pressure down to the normal level
 

Grandavi

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Long-ass build. I love that car btw. My second car was a 72 Corolla.. and if I had it today, I would have a 7M in it.. lol. :)
Hopefully this gets up and running to much fanfare and cheers!
 

Backlash2032

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I know this is YEARS later.. but would it be possible to have a shop chop and re weld the pace setter header to fit the corona? You said it was too wide.. but the header comes off the head a good 4 inches before going down lol. Seems like it would be a fairly simple chop and weld

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk
 

BosoMKII

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So clearly still a lot of work to do!

Needs and exhaust for starters. Because there isn't one AT ALL. The neighbors are not happy about the noise and fumes from a cat-less old car.

The Pacesetter headers can be cut and re-welded. I may do that now that I know how to weld. Not a priority though.



I am really thrilled to have gotten to this stage! Feels like a triumph
 

BosoMKII

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Found a stock 7M-GE mid-pipe locally, but without the cat.

Bolted it up and started the car again. That slow rev to 3k and drop and back again is gone, so that's good. Not an air leak. Nice and steady idle. Hella loud though!

The pipe fits almost like stock. Fits perfectly, except for at the trans mount where it hits. I may just take the heat shield off and see if it clears, but what is likely is that I'll just have a low profile trans mount made.



 

BosoMKII

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P.s. fixed the fuel pressure issue. Easy! Swapped a different fuel pressure regulator. The old one was just stuck. Everything working as it should

Brakes work, clutch works, engine running. I moved the car a few feet backwards and forwards again under its own power!

Very exciting. Getting closer to a drive every day I work on the old girl
 

BosoMKII

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The work lately has been to try and get something done about the transmission mount. What I need is to be able to drive the car enough that I can have a real mount made by a pro. All I did was take a couple sections of 1/8" aluminum bar and drill holes for the factor W58 mount and bolt those to the factory Corona trans mount. Easy, ugly, and not strong enough. I'll have a pro fix it up soon.

No other updates other than some shifter bushes. The trans didn't have a shifter seat bushing at all, so I ordered a Marlin Crawler nylon bushing, along with a new shifter socket bushing. What a difference these parts make! I can actually find gears now.



Gave the car a wash and took a few photos just for turds and chuckles.





Should be taking the car to the muffler shop to have an exhaust made next week!
 

BosoMKII

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Today the car went to Performance Options in Oakland to have the exhaust and transmission mount made. I had been so busy at work the last two weeks I've hardly had any time at all for the car. So today was the first day I have started the car in a while, and the first day I have actually driven the car!

Only reversed out of my driveway and then into the shop drive way after the tow, but those few meters were SUPER exciting!

Can't wait to get the car back and have an exhaust on it.

Here is the car waiting for the tow truck, after being driven for the first time in 7 years!



Here is the car at the shop:

[/quote]
 

BosoMKII

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Havn't had a timing light on it yet. All my neighbors got really pissed when I fired up the car with no exhaust, so was waiting until that had been done. Now that the exhaust is made, I find that the heater core is leaking coolant all over the driver's floor.

One more thing to fix before driving!

Also, the engine seems to be running rich. Lots of smoke. I think too much fuel pressure still.

Fix one thing, two more issues pop up!
 

BosoMKII

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Yikes! Good think I don't have a Supra!

I can see the entire heater core under the dash, behind the center console without moving a single thing. Becuase no one has replacement heater cores for this car, I'm going to find a place to have it fixed.

 

BosoMKII

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Heater core came out today after removing 4 small screws and 2 hose clamps. Old cars are good for something. But the big news is the body work started today!

My brother-in-law came over with a bunch of tools and supplies and we got to work on the big ugly dent in the rear. I'll let the photos do most of the talking.






Meanwhile, I got to work on the bumper. I said, "but I don't know how to do this." Francisco just said, "You can't really make it any worse than it already is."

Good point.

So I started wailing on it with a 3lbs hammer and actually made some positive progress.





While I was making a racket and slow progress on the bumper, Francisco was working his craft and making art. I had always thought it would be a very long time before I could afford to have the body of this car repaired. I am so happy and fortunate that my friend and brother-in-law loves his job and is happy to help out!



 

BosoMKII

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Thanks! I'm super excited. Can't wait to keep working on the body. Next Saturday we'll be doing more work
 

BosoMKII

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Mounted gauges where the ashtray goes. My car is missing the ashtray, and I can't find a replacement. Better use of the space I reckon.





The sensors are all standard threads, so I need to adapt them to the British Standard Threads that Toyota used back then.
 

BosoMKII

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The body work continues. I worked on this spot on the right of the trunk. When I got the car it was completely bowed upwards, like someone had backed over a tall rock. Didn't really show from outside the car, but inside it made the tool bucket not fit. So I beat the pannel back into roughly the right shape, and started treating the rust.





While Franny continued to work on the big problem area at the left rear corner. He's a perfectionist, and spent all day making sure this repair will last the life of the car. We ended the day with a fresh application of body filler to be sanded and shaped next session.


 

BosoMKII

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Here is my solution to all my fuel problems:





Took the gas tank to Performance Options in Oakland, and had them weld a steel bung to the bottom. Now my under-car Bosch fuel pump is gravity fed fuel and we're done. Should have just done this in the first place! So easy.
 

BosoMKII

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The sharp-eared among you will hear an ugly misfire and the big exhaust leak.

That misfire is caused by zero compression in cylinder #5.

SO LAME

:eek:wned::: hommer ::::hang::


Anyone know how to unstick a valve?
 

BosoMKII

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Thanks for the suggestion. I've read on other forums (mostly old car forums, like domestic stuff where it's not uncommon to have some engine that's been sitting for years like mine did) Sea Foam, Marvel Mistery Oil, and the rope in the cylinder trick.

What I'm thinking right now is:

Remove intake and exhaust manifolds, spray Marvel Mistery Oil through a spray bottle onto the valves and stems, and let that sit a while. More MMO into the crankcase and gas tank, go for a drive.

If that doesn't work, then the rope trick.

After that, I reckon I've got to pull the cylinder head and hit things with a really big hammer. And fire. And anger.
 

andrew_mx83

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Subaru upper engine cleaner. Use as per directions. Has unstuck a valve for me in the past, backed up by compression tests.
Try not to breathe in the smoke.
 

BosoMKII

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Zero compression happens if a piston has massive hole, totally smashed rings, a valve is burnt beyond recognition, or a valve is simply stuck open.

Given that the motor sat for 8 years, I was betting that a valve had frozen open.

Definitely didn't want to pull the head, so I hoped that a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil might have some magic in it for the old lump.

So I pulled the intake manifold and exhaust manifold and hosed the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil (which many people say is just ATF)




I think it worked. I let that all sit a few days, re-assembled and went for a drive.

Still lots of smoke, engine seemed to be shaking still. But I got out onto the road and the car drove better, smoother.

I went to the Naval base on Alameda island and used Sea Foam in the engine.

After that, everything seemed to run really well

I got to drive around for 30 mins and all was well. Oil pressure good, coolant temps steady.

The car feels really fast too! Spins the tires through first gear! Makes a great noise.

Except for the exhaust leak, and the exhaust pipe banging around on everything. Major bummer. Needs to go back to the shop to get fixed.

Oh well. One thing at a time.
 

BosoMKII

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Here's a quick video from my last drive. You can hear how much better the engine is running. Still has an exhaust leak. Need to have the shop add a flex joint to fix that.

Anyway, the car is a hoot to drive. Brakes need work, as right now the car accelerates faster than it stops! :eek3dance

[video=youtube_share;4mBd8SqxUtQ]http://youtu.be/4mBd8SqxUtQ[/video]
 

BosoMKII

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Got to spend some time with the car today. A few big projects going all at once.

1. brakes. Have had issues with the rears not releasing pressure, and the one caliper in the front working much better than the other. Which meant that the car had no brakes in the rear and and would dive hard to the right in the front. Not fun. All I can do is order new brake hoses and hope that was the problem. Updates on that later.

2. Shocks. Bought some Ultima brand shocks off ebay for $80. Cheap-o shocks, but better than nothing. Super easy to install on these old cars. Just unbolt and drop out! In with the new. One hour total. Rear doesn't sag anymore, but now the fronts are way high. Gonna have to cut springs soon.




3. Interior. Haven't had front carpets in for a long time. Rear carpets were there but gross. Pulled everything out to install new carpets. Phase one is cleaning.



Eww





This has been here almost 35 years!



Also hammered out the bumper enough to re-fit. Seeing the rear of the car almost straight makes me very happy!




And one more shot just because I like looking at the old thing

 

BosoMKII

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Finished the carpet today. Like I do everything, I guessed once and cut 50 times. That's not a good method. I should have covered the front first, because I ran out of carpet after covering the rear.

I'll have to order more carpet to do the front properly. But for now, the car is majorly improved. I won't miss that ugly floor one bit.

Sorry about the photos. Strong light all day.








Now if only I could get my wife to finish the shift boot!!
 

BosoMKII

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Odd problem when driving for a bit, a wobble or shake of some kind would show up. Because the wobble wasn't there when cold, I thought it might be the rear drums sticking. So I bought new wheel cylinders and got to work.

Trouble from the outset. Turns out the wheels pushed the drum retainer screw back, warping the drum and hub. Screw was jammed.

So jammed, that my stripped screw extractor snapped off in the head of the screw!



I don't have any photos after this. I was pissed off and just got to work. Had to grind out the screw with a disk grinder. Hub slightly bent, but was hoping it wouldn't effect things and I could still drive.

Got it all back together at last ( I HATE drum brakes! Why so complicated?! )

And all seemed pretty good. Had a great drive, wobble and shake free. As a bonus, brakes feel much better.

Then disaster!



The nylon oil pressure gauge tube disintegrated at the engine block under the manifold. Oil everywhere!

Parked the car on some street, walked home and got the stock oil pressure switch to get the car home.

Next project; replace nylon tube and replace center support bearing.

Anyone know if the Corona Mark II drive shaft carrier bearing has the same part number as other, more common cars?
 

BosoMKII

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Was fussing with some wires and the coolant temp sensor for the ECU just fell out. $15 replacement. Can't tell immediately if the car runs differently with the new part. Engine still isn't running just right, but doing things like setting the ignition timing properly REALLY helps. ( I did that, and the engine is much happier )