Bolt on Big Brake Kit For around 300$.

destrux

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Not in my budget but these are interesting. You can even get them with a full floating option. https://ceika-store.com/products/coert146

I'll be using the normal cast iron on mine I think.

I'm going to make an aluminum hubcentric bushing that attaches through the back of the rotor and then gets another bushing pressed on the front of it for the wheel centering. That way I don't have to deal with a bunch of loose spacers when I take the wheels off. I'll have to press it off the rotors if I ever change the rotors but whatever.
 
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destrux

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I noticed something else useful today while test fitting my calipers. The rear brake hoses for our cars are a much better fit than the front hoses are. They have the same type of ends as the mercedes hoses and they're almost exactly the proper length. You only have to put a piece of rubber over the hose in the middle where it rubs the side of the shock (like the mercedes s430 hoses have on them). Actually the mercedes s430 hoses look like they'd fit as well but I don't have one here to try.

I did have a spare rear hose though.



Also, these calipers fit fine with the 17" Drag DR31 (Work Emotion CR-Kai knock offs). I can't remember the specs on the wheels, I'll try to remember to post that later. I spaced the calipers out 6mm to be sure they'd fit since I don't have rotors yet.

 

yhatzee89

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Stupid question time: couldn't you just have the proper 5x114.3 bolt pattern drilled between the R350s 5x112 holes and not need to bother with the centering rings?

Like so?



Also, we really need to get a running list of wheels that these fit under
 
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Piratetip

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Hub Centric is always preferred over lug centric.

Same applies for wheels.
 

destrux

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Mine are done. I still have to bleed them better and bed the pads.

Using rear brake hoses worked perfectly. They don't rub anything after all, they fit perfect. Only mod to them is to grind the "keyed" sides of the mounting nut so it fits the keying on the hose bracket on the subframe.


I decided to just machine the hub rings for the rotors down flush like everyone else was doing rather than doing what I was talking about earlier. That way the rings for the wheels are all the same on all four wheels and no chance I'll mix them up when rotating tires. I got rings on ebay rather than turning them myself, to save some time. I thinned them to 0.275" thickness (0.010" thinner than the rotor hats).


I did the caliper spacers out of 17-4PH stainless steel in H900 condition. I found 9/64th (0.0140") to be the perfect spacing.



 

Piratetip

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Good note on the rear brake lines usage.

What wheels are you using? And dimensions, dia, backspacing ect..
 

destrux

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My wheels are Drag DR31 17x9" +38 offset.

Edit: Ignore this, they weren't bled...----> I'm not happy with the distance you have to push the pedal to move the slack out of all the extra pistons. These calipers seem to retract the pistons a lot when you let off the pedal. I'm sure they're bled but I still have an excessive dead space at the top of the pedal travel.

My wheel bearings are good (and new) so I don't think they're the cause.

My solution is going to be to try a 97 t100 1 ton abs master cylinder. It moves 12% more fluid at 1 1/16" bore.

Probably a good idea anyway to help refine pedal feel since I deleted my abs years back.
 
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Piratetip

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You are positive no air is in the system?
The square cut seals on the caliper pistons only return the piston ~1 / 2mm max
This is primarily determined by the hardness of the piston seal and the chamfer dimensions cut into the caliper.

Good patent writeup here on the subject:
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/5826681.pdf

Does your master cylinder have good new seals in it?
 

MarkIII4Me

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I'm sure they're bled but I still have an excessive dead space at the top of the pedal travel.
I have the same issue with mine. But I was experiencing the same thing with the factory brake setup prior to the conversion. Now quite a while back I replaced the Master Cylinder with a refurbished OEM Aisin unit. Perhaps I needed to adjust the push-rod to the new cylinder? I didn't think about it at the time, but that's the only thing I can see it being at this point. Anyone have any luck adjusting the push-rod nut without removing the brake lines from the Master? Because there's no chance in hell I'm dealing with bleeding the air out of this system again.
 

destrux

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Yes I am. My car was ABS but I deleted the pump years back but kept the rest of the system the same, I just ran new lines and got a T fitting from another car.

After driving it a few more days I decided there was some air in there. You could pump the pedal up fast and it would get higher, which usually is a sign of air.

Even after all the bleeding I did, even unbolting the calipers and tilting them I did have air in there. I finally got the last bit out by pumping the front caliper pistons out to their max extension using a set of completely worn out pads in place of the new ones (the old pads are there just to keep the pistons from popping out of their bores). Then I opened the bleeders and pushed the outboard pistons in all the way (which purged a little air out) and then the inboard pistons (a little more air, probably came from the other side of the caliper). Then they were good, no mush at the top of the pedal.

I still felt like the pedal was lower than it should be and I wanted to have to push the brakes harder to get to the point they'd lock, so I went ahead with the T100 master cylinder anyway. I don't regret it. It was worth the $70. The pedal feels great now. It's solid. I don't think the old MC had any issues (no visible leaks and it was only a few years old IIRC) so I set it on the side as an emergency spare since the new one is a NAPA reman (only one NAPA could get for a 97 T100 1 ton apparently).

One note about that T100 master though... if you get one get one WITH a reservoir. The stock supra one won't fit, the outlets on the bottom are too big. It uses the same reservoir as a 1g/2g 4Runner though, and I have a 91 4Runner parts truck here that I got one from. You also need the grommets for it.
 
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hvyman

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Rock auto has pretty good prices.

Got mine from ssf which is sort of like world PAC for German cars.
 

yhatzee89

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For those of you that have gotten your calipers powder coated: did you completely disassemble the caliper into its 3 main parts? Or did you leave the bolts in and have it PCed as one unit?
 

MarkIII4Me

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^
I see no reason not to disassemble them. Probably need to pull the seals too since most powder coatings are baked on at high temp.
 

yhatzee89

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^
I see no reason not to disassemble them. Probably need to pull the seals too since most powder coatings are baked on at high temp.
Because the bolts are TTY and I'm not sure I want to find replacements. Also, there's no way those seals are only going to be able to handle under 400°. The rotors get hotter than that from heavy braking.
 

yhatzee89

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So I scored a set of caliper by accident this morning. Tried them and found out they do not fit under my Starion wheels :(



It fits under the wheel just fine, but it hits the face. If it had about 5mm of spacer it would probably fit but they already stick out under the fenders too much, so looks like I'm in the market for some new wheels



So a year later at 3 in the morning I suddenly remembered something: I didn’t space out the caliper when I test fit them under my wheels...
now I’ve got to get some washers and try it again.

Also, has anybody tried these with the factory 91-92 5-spoke wheels?
 

GC89

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Not in my budget but these are interesting. You can even get them with a full floating option. https://ceika-store.com/products/coert146

I'll be using the normal cast iron on mine I think.

I'm going to make an aluminum hubcentric bushing that attaches through the back of the rotor and then gets another bushing pressed on the front of it for the wheel centering. That way I don't have to deal with a bunch of loose spacers when I take the wheels off. I'll have to press it off the rotors if I ever change the rotors but whatever.
I started digging through the willwood catalog for a 2 piece set but didn't have dimensions on what the hat offset needed to be. If we had that measurement I bet we could source something.
 

hvyman

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Iirc the measurement would be from the inside of the hat to the back pad surface. And then subtract the thickness of the rotor.
 

hvyman

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So a year later at 3 in the morning I suddenly remembered something: I didn’t space out the caliper when I test fit them under my wheels...
now I’ve got to get some washers and try it again.

Also, has anybody tried these with the factory 91-92 5-spoke wheels?
Yes they fit with 5 spokes. It’s very tight tho.
 

Piratetip

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TrqMnstr

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TrqMnstr,
Have those style calipers been verified fitment works on our cars?
The style of caliper referenced in this thread have the separated mounting ears bracket.

Like this.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173666931090

This is the style I purchased and installed on my vehicle.
They should be he same. Possibly a change done later in production. I believe mine to be earlier than the ones you have, but should work none the less.
 

Piratetip

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Interested to see if this style works.
I remember looking up calipers on Mercedes OE catalog, there was a different model or trim those worked with. But can't remember off the top of my head what it was. The model year ranges are about the same.
 

TrqMnstr

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Interested to see if this style works.
I remember looking up calipers on Mercedes OE catalog, there was a different model or trim those worked with. But can't remember off the top of my head what it was. The model year ranges are about the same.
You and I both. I specifically searched for the S500 in the search tab. Everywhere I searched prior to ordering them led me to believe they will work.
 

Piratetip

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Yeah.
That makes sense.

The caliper mounting bolts appear a bit closer to the caliper on those vs. the style that works.

That must have been the key difference I was forgetting when comparing previously. Rotor diameter.

Good catch.
 
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TrqMnstr

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The mounting bracket, on this particular style of caliper, has a number at the very bottom. The last three digits designate the rotor diameter. You can see the “312” in the bottom image. The top image has the “330” respectively. 762E519C-0ABB-43B8-831F-C653D2CC94A9.jpeg 5E1FB681-C649-4E0D-A2A6-2C94881A5136.jpeg
 

hvyman

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Good catch. Ya it’s the ones with the funny ears for mounting that are not connected.
 

seoul4korea

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Here is what I went with. I found these washers to used as spacers, they are almost the perfect thickenss leaving 9.5mm of space in the back and 9mm in the front (In terms of caliper to rotor spacing. I went with these washers as they are large and help spread the load.

I also have BF Goodrich brake lines and was happy to see that there was ZERO issues with reusing them, the length was perfect and the banjo bolt work as fine as well. I found a rebuild kit on Ebay that included the small little seals as well as all of the other ones.


43092083_261770561209793_4913491892848558080_n.jpg 43122725_1907714192642628_4509766852515201024_n.jpg 43222785_427063031154087_939770270640504832_n.jpg 43016089_327471751394277_8086077843768868864_n.jpg 43101774_535280726915035_5594162823929266176_n.jpg
 

Piratetip

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Centric sells a kit for the Piston seals and dust boots.

I believe this was it.
143.03005

They also sell replacement pistons if they are corroded.