Bolt on Big Brake Kit For around 300$.

MarkIII4Me

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Yay! I have brakes.

3 issues found.

Issue #1: The aluminum hub rings from Amazon are junk and not machined evenly. The passenger side protruded from the rotor hat maybe 1mm but was tight on the rotor; keeping it from pivoting back and forth on the wheel studs (due to the larger stud hole bore on the rotor). On the driver side, however, the hub ring protruded a good 3mm, keeping the TT wheel from contacting the rotor hat. Also, the rotor could still turn freely since the hub ring was not as snug as on the passenger side. The rotor could move side to side several mm before it would click against a wheel stud and turn the hub. Factor in that the wheel was hitting the hub ring and sitting 3mm away from the rotor hat...let's just say not good. I ground down the hub ring flush with the rotor using a dremel. Problem solved. Will probably end up doing to the passenger side as well one of these days for peace of mind.

Issue #2: I didn't fully seat the brake pad sliders into the calipers and they worked themselves loose on both sides. The pads were pivoting all over the place. Now that the vehicle was on a lift and I had a proper punch and hammer. I smacked those sliders until they were fully seated inside each caliper.

Issue #3: I can only assume the soft pedal was due to air in the system, since the first two issues shouldn't have any affect on pedal feel. I pressure bled the system one last time. I had a clean steady stream of fluid from all bleeders with no visible air bubbles. However, I now have pedal. It is not as firm as I would like it to be, but it is no softer than when I had the factory brakes and hoses. I'll be driving it home later this evening and will report back on brake performance.
 
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BigKO

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Very Nice! Be sure to provide impressions about improved braking once you are confident enough to put it through its paces. I'm on the fence, and if there is a big improvement it might just push me over the edge.
 

yhatzee89

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Issue #3: I can only assume the soft pedal was due to air in the system, since the first two issues shouldn't have any affect on pedal feel. I pressure bled the system one last time. I had a clean steady stream of fluid from all bleeders with no visible air bubbles. However, I now have pedal. It is not as firm as I would like it to be, but it is no softer than when I had the factory brakes and hoses. I'll be driving it home later this evening and will report back on brake performance.
which master cylinder are you using?
 

SupraDrew

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Not sure if your pedal feel is this issue but here is what I had happen. I had the original MC on the car and it was leaking a small amount of fluid from where the booster pushes the MC piston. I installed a MC brace to help with the firewall flex. One day the pedal felt soft so I replaced with MC but the issue persisted. I bled the brakes many times, the pedal was hard and I had no air in the lines. After I started the car the pedal would be soft again, it turned out to be the booster. When I had installed the MC brace it put so much pressure on the MC that the leaking fluid pushed it way into the booster. When I pulled the old booster out and turned it upside down, brake fluid pored out of the vacuum port. Might be something to look at.
 

MarkIII4Me

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A failing brake booster?
An interesting proposition, but usually the pedal gets stiffer with a failing booster, not softer.

I haven't condemned the master yet. Not looking forward to introducing more air into the system by replacing the master, as it has been an ordeal to get the pedal to it's current firmness.
 

hvyman

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I've had a few friends have bleeding issues. My buddy who I first gave the brakes too if we bled them it make the pedal go to the floor. He ended up driving to work and back. Like 2 miles and after a couple weeks and a bunch of brake boosting it got all of the air out on its out and now is firm.

My buddy dub his car has the evo rears. That one had some air in the rear and front. Can be a pain to get it all out. But once it's out your ok.

As for performance. With the evo rears car stops on a dime. I would say at least 25-40% more braking power and zero fade for 90% of users. It what should have came from the factory.
 

MarkIII4Me

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I finally got around to grinding the front passenger hub ring adapter flush with the rotor hat. Definitely recommend doing this prior to installation as it is very tedious and time consuming with the rotor still on.

Before:









After:







It's hard to tell from the pics, but the ring was ground around 1mm below the rotors surface. You can see where the Dremel got away from me a few times. Luckily, the bit is too soft to mar the iron rotor and hub; just fucked the paint up a bit. Easily remedied if I ever feel the need. Unnoticeable with the wheel on, so at the bottom of my to-do list.
 
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ghynes440

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Has anybody found out if any of the xxr rims will fit this bbk? I'm in the market for a set of rims and don't want to buy ones that will not fit. Or know of any rims that will definitely fit this kit.
 

hvyman

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all depends on the face design. the flat mesh wheels wont fit. something like te37s will no problem.
 

hvyman

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Run enough spacer any wheel will fit the brakes. But then it not fit the car.

For mine it would have taken like. 15mm spacer iirc and that would have pushed the wheel far beyond the fender.
 

Piratetip

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Good to know on the hub adapter.
I will remember to machine them down on the lathe before installing.

3mm?
 

Bogwon

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Huge thanks for the R and D! I was needing a brake job anyway and this works so well! Here's a few pics I snapped and also some of the rears. Thanks again to Hvyman and everyone else who took the time to post the information!
 

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sheedy126

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Thise look great! This is definitely on my to do list... Cars getting faster, I need some better stopping power

Bogwon, if you ever find yourself passing through Tri cities area, I'd love to see if my wheel clear the calipers. They are the "mesh" type but do have a higher +22 offset so I'm hoping they do.

That'd be a bad deal ordering everything to find out they don't quite clear.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

Piratetip

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Speed bleeders PN I found that work on these front calipers.
12705 - M8-1.25 X 28mm

I have a 2nd set of calipers for sale if anyone wants a set they can just bolt up :D
In for sale section here.

Includes an already machined centering ring to the same height as the rotor hat thickness.
 

Bogwon

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Thise look great! This is definitely on my to do list... Cars getting faster, I need some better stopping power

Bogwon, if you ever find yourself passing through Tri cities area, I'd love to see if my wheel clear the calipers. They are the "mesh" type but do have a higher +22 offset so I'm hoping they do.

That'd be a bad deal ordering everything to find out they don't quite clear.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
Unfortunately I don't ever make it around the tri cities area but if I get a wild hair and wanna make a road trip I'll try to get a hold of you first.
 

yhatzee89

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So I scored a set of caliper by accident this morning. Tried them and found out they do not fit under my Starion wheels :(



It fits under the wheel just fine, but it hits the face. If it had about 5mm of spacer it would probably fit but they already stick out under the fenders too much, so looks like I'm in the market for some new wheels



 

Mk3TargaJames

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So I scored a set of caliper by accident this morning. Tried them and found out they do not fit under my Starion wheels :(



It fits under the wheel just fine, but it hits the face. If it had about 5mm of spacer it would probably fit but they already stick out under the fenders too much, so looks like I'm in the market for some new wheels




This is mine with the Starion wheels, the fronts had about an inch of spacers, but the backs did not. Just some very slight camber. Do you have spacers on yours at all? From your IG photos, yours seem to sit out much more than mine.

I should also note that the front fenders have been rolled, there are some eyelashes on the pass side that gave that away, have you considered rolling them?



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yhatzee89

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This is mine with the Starion wheels, the fronts had about an inch of spacers, but the backs did not. Just some very slight camber. Do you have spacers on yours at all? From your IG photos, yours seem to sit out much more than mine.

I should also note that the front fenders have been rolled, there are some eyelashes on the pass side that gave that away, have you considered rolling them?



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Mine are rears all around
 

yhatzee89

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While looking for rotors today I came across this:
http://stoptech.com/products/big-brake-kits/replacement-parts/bbk-repl-aero-rotors


They make 2 piece rotors in 332x32mm size, would that be to big? Has anybody found any two piece rotor options? they also make a 328x28mm but I think that may be too narrow. If you paired a set up with the hats for the 350Z would that space them out perfect AND center them without having to use centering rings?
 
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Piratetip

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Agreed the 2 piece rotors are quite appealing as far as aesthetics and weight savings.

Find any that are 330mm OD and 32mm thick?

I might have some custom hats made at some point if there are any discs that size available.
Would help cut some serious weight off the front MB 330mm upgrade brakes I installed.
 

yhatzee89

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Agreed the 2 piece rotors are quite appealing as far as aesthetics and weight savings.

Find any that are 330mm OD and 32mm thick?

I might have some custom hats made at some point if there are any discs that size available.
Would help cut some serious weight off the front MB 330mm upgrade brakes I installed.
not that ive found, they have a corvette option that's 325X32 but I don't think that would work.
no luck finding undrilled rotors either, the hope was to find one without the lug/hub drilled out already and avoid having to use a centering ring, then have them cryo dipped, slotted, and anodized on my own. but I think I'm SOL on that front.
 

Piratetip

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Yeah 325 won't work, the pad surface is already just about to the edge of the rotor.

Aluminum centering rings are pretty easy to come by.
Just need a bit of machining to shorten the height a bit for use with the rotor instead of a wheel.

Though if you make a custom top hat to bolt to the rotor you can just make the center ID correct for the Supra application.
 

hvyman

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wilwood should have some. just need to measure the back spacing of the rotor.
 

destrux

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Someone who's got these on should make a template and scan it in so people can print it and test fit it inside their wheels.

Like this.



You just basically cut a piece of cardboard till it fits tight around the caliper and flat on the rotor hub face (wheels spacers OFF), then trace it on another piece of cardboard to make an inverse template.

Then scan it and make a PDF so everyone can print it the right scale.
 

Piratetip

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Yeah I will be making one, unless someone else beats me to it.
I need one to select some new wheels for purchase.