Beginning this project (1989 Supra with a previous 2JZ swap)

Black95

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it is actually easier to remove the intake manifold (both lower and top) as that will give you a clear line of site to the starter and a normal 12mm wrench will fit on the tranny side and then use a ratchet on the motor side.
Thanks. I got it out and put back together. Time to put it back in.

Dumb move on my part. I thought I could take the top part of the starter off to give myself room to plug in the rear knock sensor and be able to put it back together in the car. Not a chance in hell.

Edit: 20 minutes to put it back in. Not bad.
 
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Black95

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I am working on getting rid of this:
Resized_20200419_162157.jpeg

By replacing it with one of these:
Resized_20200711_105917.jpeg
Are the M8 terminals big enough or should I reorder it with M10 terminals?

I also have one of these with 3/8" terminals:

Resized_20200711_110515.jpeg

But I was worried about having that many wires on two posts, and it being exposed. I needed a two terminal one on the other side where the power line from a new relay/fuse box will be coming through the firewall.

What's your advice?
 

Abe's 1987

Si vis pacem, para bellum
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I personally would go with the heavy duty bus bar, and yes definitely got to fix that chaos going on there.
 

Abe's 1987

Si vis pacem, para bellum
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if you want to take an extra precaution, I'd get a rubber pad to put between the box and the metal.
 

Black95

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I found an old summons in the car the "Horn, Inoperable." It tipped me off, so I threw in a generic horn kit. Resized_20200718_114735.jpeg

I am making good progress with the harness. I think the only things left are:
- connect the oil pressure sender
- find the ALT light under dash
- find START signal under dash
- find IGN + under dash
 

Black95

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It looks like IGN is black w/ orange stripe and START is black w/ white stripe. Can anyone confirm that for me?
Resized_20200718_122203.jpeg
Under the dash, by the steering column.
 

Black95

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I went to kook up the wire to the alternator warning light. It isn't there and that part of the circuit board on the back of the guage cluster is gone. Cut out to install an HKS boost guage that isn't hooked up.

I understand I can hook the wire to 12v switched power if I install a 470 ohm resistor. Will any resistor do, or do I need one specifically for automotive applications?