Beginning this project (1989 Supra with a previous 2JZ swap)

Black95

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I am trying to build an intake so that an air filter can be attached. Is there any reason I can't move this coolant fitting to the hole directly below it? It will give me the 1.5 inches I need to clear the hood. This line runs to the turbo: Resized_20200425_135324.jpeg
 

Piratetip

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Honestly I don't even know where to start.
Literally remove all the wires and hoses you took photos of and throw them in the trash.
Start from scratch.

Your car's previous owner mess beats figgie hands down, no question.

Look at the throttle cable zip tied together / epoxy or jbweld on the intake manifold and radiator / litterally every wire and connector has been hacked or spliced / I see lots of metal hardlines transitioned to hose clamps ( with probably no bead) / even the hood latch spring looks mangled.
The A/F port at the top of the downpipe is welded shut.
There is a bolt and high temp RTV sealing the turbo waterline connection.
I see HOUSE 120v wire nuts used for connections...
It's like a pack of monkeys worked on this car.
 
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Black95

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Honestly I don't even know where to start.
Literally remove all the wires and hoses you took photos of and throw them in the trash.
Start from scratch.

Your car's previous owner mess beats figgie hands down, no question.

Look at the throttle cable zip tied together / epoxy or jbweld on the intake manifold and radiator / litterally every wire and connector has been hacked or spliced / I see lots of metal hardlines transitioned to hose clamps ( with probably no bead) / even the hood latch spring looks mangled.
The A/F port at the top of the downpipe is welded shut.
There is a bolt and high temp RTV sealing the turbo waterline connection.
I see HOUSE 120v wire nuts used for connections...
It's like a pack of monkeys worked on this car.
Damn.....Harsh words.

If I start from scratch on wiring, I guess I would need a new wire harness for both the MK3 and for the 2JZ and work them together?

Something like this?:
2JZGTE BRAND NEW 2JZ-GTE into MK3 SUPRA MA70 ENGINE WIRING HARNESS
 
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Piratetip

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Nothing directed towards you, just trying to give my honest opinion.
My main point is all those hacked up connections, wires, hoses and whatnot are all failure points.
They will come back to bite you later if not corrected.
Someone that knew nothing about vehicles or general mechanical/electrical knowledge worked on this car. And it shows.
 
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Black95

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Nothing directed towards you, just trying to give my honest opinion.
My main point is all those hacked up connections, wires, hoses and whatnot are all failure points.
They will come back to bite you later if not corrected.
Someone that knew nothing about vehicles or general mechanical/electrical knowledge worked on this car. And it shows.
When I said harsh words, I didn't think they were directed at me, just at the situation. I didn't take any offence at all.

I had thought about getting the wire diagrams for the MK3, 2JZ and AEM and then tracing, labeling and repairing each individually. I think your comments make me realize that spending the money will save my sanity.
 
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A70nut

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I'm not gonna lie, the only good thing in that engine bay looks to be the engine. And I'm surprised it ever even ran looking at all that work done to it. If I were you I'd yank the drivetrain out and all the horrible wiring associated with it and go over it and start from scratch. If they did all that I'd be worried of bolts missing or loose in crutial places.
 
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Black95

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I'm not gonna lie, the only good thing in that engine bay looks to be the engine. And I'm surprised it ever even ran looking at all that work done to it. If I were you I'd yank the drivetrain out and all the horrible wiring associated with it and go over it and start from scratch. If they did all that I'd be worried of bolts missing or loose in crutial places.
I think I'm sold on the new wiring harness thing, if I can find one that will meet the 3 requirements (looking for recomendations here.)

If I can put in a new harness without pulling the engine AND the leak underneath turns out to be an oil feed line rather the oil pan gasket, then I'll leave the engine in.

Mechanical parts on this car are easy to get at compared to my other car. I don't see many that can't be repaired or replaced in the engine bay. My garage is space limited.
 

A70nut

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I think I'm sold on the new wiring harness thing, if I can find one that will meet the 3 requirements (looking for recomendations here.)

If I can put in a new harness without pulling the engine AND the leak underneath turns out to be an oil feed line rather the oil pan gasket, then I'll leave the engine in.

Mechanical parts on this car are easy to get at compared to my other car. I don't see many that can't be repaired or replaced in the engine bay. My garage is space limited.
Fair enough, I would for sure gut that engine bay of everything that looks aftermarket electrical wise and go from there with a new engine harness though. That bare harness over the bare downpipe gives me major anxiety. Radiant heat is a very real problem on the exhaust side.
 

Black95

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Fair enough, I would for sure gut that engine bay of everything that looks aftermarket electrical wise and go from there with a new engine harness though. That bare harness over the bare downpipe gives me major anxiety. Radiant heat is a very real problem on the exhaust side.
Agreed. Any recommendations on where to get a harness?
 

3p141592654

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Wow! Actually those swage-lok hose fittings are super expensive. I wonder where he got those from.

It seems like sorting that wiring out is near impossible. Would it not be better to source a factory harness and try to restore order that way?
 

Black95

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Wow! Actually those swage-lok hose fittings are super expensive. I wonder where he got those from.

It seems like sorting that wiring out is near impossible. Would it not be better to source a factory harness and try to restore order that way?
From what I understand, a factory harness needs significant modification for the 2JZ, and that doesn't include the AEM. If I am going to go as far as a whole new harness, I would like someone who has done it before to be the one hacking in to it.
 

JustAnotherVictim

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Good god, yea I would rip everything out and start fresh as possible.
I wouldn't trust anything on that harness personally. Some people like the tweak harnesses, maybe you can find a better quality harness to get rebuilt on the forums/fb groups also.
 

A70nut

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Agreed. Any recommendations on where to get a harness?
I'm running a tweakd harness, but if they make a 2jz non vvti for the mark 3 kaizen motorsports looks to make a super high quality engine harness for the vvti mark 3s. Gold pins and everything. Either is a nice option to get the job done though.
 

Black95

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I'm running a tweakd harness, but if they make a 2jz non vvti for the mark 3 kaizen motorsports looks to make a super high quality engine harness for the vvti mark 3s. Gold pins and everything. Either is a nice option to get the job done though.
Do you have an opinion on Wiring Specialties as compared to Tweak'd? I like both of their sites for the fact they ask the questions about the different kind of connectors that I wouldn't even know to ask.

Wiring Specialties is a little cheaper, but not enough that I care about the difference. Both seemed fairly highly reviewed, but a couple more negative reviews for Tweak'd. I can't afford to get this wrong the first time because I'll tear the car apart trying to find a problem that I wouldn't know to look for in the harness.

Also, I've heard several times here and elsewhere that this is a non-vvt engine. Is it definitive from the pictures?
 

Black95

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Trying to label everything before I remove it. Anyone recognize this plug? It comes out from behind the timing belt, between the upper and lower water pipe and seems to come from the center of the front of the engine:

From above:

Resized_20200502_133219.jpeg

Close up of plug:
Resized_20200502_133303.jpeg

I found this guide to sensors, but all the pictures are gone:
2JZ Sensor Checklist
 
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A70nut

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Wow, that's the jankiest setup on a jz crank sensor connector I've seen, the car strikes again!
 
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Black95

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So I understand that the 2JZ has two Cam Position Sensors. One located between injectors 3 and 4, and one located between inj 5 and 6.

Only the forward one is connected on this car. It seems that the AEM v.2 only uses the forward one. Can anyone confirm that for me?
 

A70nut

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So I understand that the 2JZ has two Cam Position Sensors. One located between injectors 3 and 4, and one located between inj 5 and 6.

Only the forward one is connected on this car. It seems that the AEM v.2 only uses the forward one. Can anyone confirm that for me?
It'll run on one, whichever the tuner decides they want to wire and run it on really. I ran mine on the front for ease of maintenance but it doesnt really matter.
 

Black95

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Cleaning things up. I've traced labeled and unplugged several parts of the harness. It is starting to look cleaner.

Engine harness set aside:
20200509_184347.jpg

Engine without:
20200509_184330.jpg

Lots more work to do.
 
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Black95

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Some small progress today. First I decided to take a look at the shaved door handles to see if I could find a remote for them, or if I could program a remote to go with them. There are no identifying marks on the control module but it looks like a "Spal" unit. The only Spal units I can see online are 7-channel but this one is an 8-ch:
Resized_20200518_114840.jpeg Resized_20200518_114850.jpeg

No reponse from the programming button, so I'll trace the wires. Oh:
Resized_20200518_124139.jpeg

Traced the hot line back to the battery. Not hooked up. At least I know where to start here.
 

Black95

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2nd, and more importantly, I think I discovered what I did awhile ago to cause the no-start. When I attached the trickle charger to the battery, I didn't notice a relay on the trunk floor.

Resized_20200518_124609.jpeg

Looks like a fuel pump relay to me. The yellow constant 12v is now not connected. Silly me. When I connected the charger I removed the Viable Interim Connector - Electrical Grips that were holding the yellow wire to the positive post of the battery.

By reinstalling the Viable Interim Connector - Electrical grips (abbreviated: VICE grips) I was able to confirm fuel pressure with the key turned on.
 

Black95

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Progress today. Programmed some new remotes for the shaved door handles. Small thing but it feels good to be able to open the door:

20200531_135032.jpg 20200531_135036.jpg
 

Black95

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I also bought this climate control unit from a member here.

Before:
20200531_145530(1).jpg

After:
Resized_20200531_145329.jpeg

Powers up and the fan works.

If anyone knows how to change it from fahrenheit to celcius that would be great, but not a big deal
 

Black95

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Help me identify this Oil Pressure Cupcake.

So this little cupcake shaped thing is attached where the oil pressure sensor goes. It is a little bigger than a two-bite brownie.

I need to find the clippy thing that attaches to it so that I can swap that clip on to my new wiring harness, but I don't know what it is called. "Oil pressure cupcake" isn't getting me any good results on google. Resized_20200628_172643.jpeg
 

figgie

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Your car's previous owner mess beats figgie hands down, no question.
HAHAHAHA.

Geezes I thought that was not possible and here we are!

@Black95

there is only so much time you want to sink in to fix stupid. Other times it is best to do as PirateTip said and rip out and start from scratch. To many unknowns to be comfortable to rely you car on.
 

Black95

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Damn, man.

Keep at it. I wish you were local, the last owner was a dear friend of mine.
Thanks for the encouragement.

I strongly believe the engine is solid, but then he hit a proverbial wall with the wiring and some of the plumbing by just trying to "make things work."

Cosmetically, I assume he was leaving it to the end, when everything else was done. The interior is a wreck.
 

Zumtizzle

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Thanks for the encouragement.

I strongly believe the engine is solid, but then he hit a proverbial wall with the wiring and some of the plumbing by just trying to "make things work."

Cosmetically, I assume he was leaving it to the end, when everything else was done. The interior is a wreck.
Proud of you for making the effort towards making it happen, I see theres a lot going on.

Engine should be fine. Cams and springs and retainers were done, and purchased through me.

You will need to smack some sense into him! lol.
I would honestly love to see him, and help him out without an issue.
Helped me through some dark times.
Great Guy, and great person.
Miss him a lot.
 
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figgie

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it is actually easier to remove the intake manifold (both lower and top) as that will give you a clear line of site to the starter and a normal 12mm wrench will fit on the tranny side and then use a ratchet on the motor side.