Beginning this project (1989 Supra with a previous 2JZ swap)

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
I was advised that a build thread was a better place for this than the tech discussion. I will be asking for help on identifying parts pieces and corrective action.

I am starting to work on this project car that I kind of inherited. It was an original 1 one owner 1989 Supra Turbo with a 2JZ single turbo swap. It needs significant work for me to consider it a road worthy car.

A little background:
This car formerly belonged to a member here. It starts and runs but needs significant work on the interior, exterior, wiring, mechanical.

The things I can identify it has:
- 2JZ single turbo swap
- AEM Stand-alone engine management
- No MAF sensor

Engine Compartment problems:
- The wiring is kinda jerry-rigged throughout the interior and engine compartment.
- While it runs, when cold starting it bogs down just after idle and hunts. When hot, not as much, but it is idling at 1,500rpm steady.
- Leaking from the oil pan gasket, from what I can tell.
- Leaking from line going to what appears to be an oil cooler.
- Many loose wires that end in nothing.
- Other wires run everywhere without a lot of rhyme or reason and sub-standard connectors.
- A mishmash of lines and hoses and some parts that don't look like the belong in a car, never mind an engine bay.


Interior problems:
- No climate control unit.
- No Stereo
- No Glove box, but there is a bird's nest of wires connected to the AEM
- After market seats with cushions missing
- Interior panels missing or needing repairs

Exterior problems:
- Shaved door handles. No Remote!
- Trim missing or damaged.
- After market hood.
- Front bumper cover modified.

I imagine that this will be a longer project for me to work on.

Thanks for reading. I can post some of the pictures of the initial state.
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
2,242
Location
MKE, WI
Nice rats nest they left for you there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Black95

A70nut

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 21, 2018
Messages
214
Location
Lexington, Ky
My ocd is going crazy looking at those pictures! You have a lot of fun ahead of you for sure!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Black95

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
One of the leaks I am dealing with is on one of the lines going to the oil cooler. The line has these fittings used as a union between different sized lines: Resized_20200410_153416.jpeg

It looks like it had white (or possibly green) T-tape sealing the threads. Any recommendations for thread sealant? Tough to go to the store and ask the guys right now.
 

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
So this doesn't look like something that belongs under the hood: Resized_20200410_154542.jpeg

Blue and red wires. One end goes to the alternator and the other goes into the fender and back towards the drivers seat. I assume I can just connect the two wires, but any idea why an in-line switch would be there?
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
2,242
Location
MKE, WI
I would throw that hose coupler mess out and run 1 continuous line the whole length.
Otherwise it's probably NPT fittings, all mismatched.

No idea on the switch, where to the alternator? B+ terminal?
An underhood switch makes no sense to me.

You are finding a lot of janky stuff.
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
2,242
Location
MKE, WI
Hard to tell from that photo.
My guess is they wired in a switch to enable / disable the alternator regulator.

But I really don't know.

Does your charge warning light illuminate with key on engine off? ( Red Batt light?)
Maybe they were too lazy to replace the bulb in the cluster.

 

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
Hard to tell from that photo.
My guess is they wired in a switch to enable / disable the alternator regulator.

But I really don't know.

Does your charge warning light illuminate with key on engine off? ( Red Batt light?)
Maybe they were too lazy to replace the bulb in the cluster.

Nope. Seatbelt and antilock lights only.
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
2,242
Location
MKE, WI
Can you flip that switch while it's running. Measure the voltage at the alternator B+ post.
Off vs On

Might tell you if my guess was right or wrong.

The batt light in the cluster should illuminate if wired correctly.
That's what's making the connection to enable the alternator regulator.
Burnt out bulb, no Alternator working.
 

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
Can I use transmission oil cooler hose?
It looks like the part that is responsible for the leak is the barb end of a reusable hydraulic fotting without the outer crimping part, seen here:
Resized_20200413_185157.jpeg

(It was hose clamped.)


But if I try and replace it correctly, with a two ended hydraulic connection properly, should I be worried about the restricted opening at the end of the barb? Will it flow sufficiently?

I am asking because it appears the other end of the line (which I should have checked before,) ends in a crimped on banjo fitting, so if possible I will order the twist on hydraulic fitting rather then trying to find a shop that is open and deal face-to-face with a moist human.
 

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
Can you flip that switch while it's running. Measure the voltage at the alternator B+ post.
Off vs On

Might tell you if my guess was right or wrong.

The batt light in the cluster should illuminate if wired correctly.
That's what's making the connection to enable the alternator regulator.
Burnt out bulb, no Alternator working.
Have to wait until it is warm enough to run it with the garage door open, and day off.
 

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
I was wrong about there being a banjo bolt on the other end of that oil line. It must have been the angle I was looking down at it.

Also, it turns out the line is double walled, aka double wired, hydraulic line. I believe the line is fine for oil, heat and pressure, but with the double wire wrap there is no way you would ever get hose clamps to compress the end on to a barbed fitting. Resized_20200418_122522.jpeg

Resized_20200418_124024.jpeg

I think this helps me. With the single wire hose I have, I think I will be okay using good hose clamps on either end on to barbed fittings. Anyone agree with my logic?
 
Last edited:

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
This looks safe:
Resized_20200419_162157.jpeg

Just kinda lying over here on the metal, rubber side down luckily. (I started taping up before taking the picture.)
 
Last edited:

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
I am going to have to piece together an intake pipe to get an air filter on this thing. That water pipe is directly in the way.
Resized_20200419_162958.jpeg
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
2,242
Location
MKE, WI
Yes that is for sure very professional looking.

Have you made a count as to how many hacked parts you have on that car yet?
 

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
Yes that is for sure very professional looking.

Have you made a count as to how many hacked parts you have on that car yet?
I can't count that high. :) Early numbers indicate, roughly, most of them.

The picture of the glove box doesn't really do it justice when you get in close to the wires. Bare, rough soldered connections everywhere.
 

figgie

Well-Known Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,553
Location
Shakopee, Minnesota
This looks safe:
View attachment 83546

Just kinda lying over here on the metal, rubber side down luckily. (I started taping up before taking the picture.)
I can't count that high. :) Early numbers indicate, roughly, most of them.

The picture of the glove box doesn't really do it justice when you get in close to the wires. Bare, rough soldered connections everywhere.


i thought my car was electrical titanic. Congrats sir, some how your supra beat mine!
 

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
So it appears this little thing:
Resized_20200425_102942.jpeg

used to be where these two water? valves are attached (I think) to the wastegate:
Resized_20200425_103014.jpeg

Why it is like this? Anyone want to hazzard a guess?

It now looks like the car won't start anymore. I can't clearly remember the last time I had it running, but I can think of a few things I have done that might be the cause:
- I don't think the gas has gone bad in that time.
- I might have turned the valves.
- Rooting around with the wires might have pulled something free, but there are loose wires everywhere any way.
- Replacing the PS hose couldn't be related.
- I removed what I think is the intake air temperature sensor to re-route the wires. I think I plugged it back in the same way, but these are not standard plugs that only go in one way.
- I unplugged the alternator to re-route the wire and luckily I had a picture of how it looked before, so I am confident there.
- I accidently arced the alternator to ground briefly.
- Re-routed several other wires away from hot spots, out of the way of components and one set running to this guy:
Resized_20200425_105136.jpeg
that was lying across the top of the engine, over the fender and then back in through the passenger door.
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
2,242
Location
MKE, WI
Oh man...
You are finding some of the weirdest shit.
This guy just pulled random parts he had lying around and just slapped stuff together.
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
2,242
Location
MKE, WI
Take some more closeup shots of the entire engine and hoses.
So we can see the whole picture of what in the world this guy did.
 

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
As requested. Starting on the passenger side, going from left to right across the firewall. If you see anything that needs more detail, let me know. If we can play, "Name That Non-Standard Component," as well, I think that would really help me out.


In this picture, several of the wiring groups were run through the firewall, but not through the rubber thing that keeps them away from the metal. I have re-run these through the rubber and none of them appeared to be cut.
Resized_20200425_113016.jpeg


Here, looking down at the turbo and exhaust manifold, we can see the little valves I posted about earlier today. The O2 sensor appears to have factory wiring. Now that it won't start, I noticed the AEM wideband gauge inside is behaving wierdly as well. When The key is on, it shows a reading (~14 I think,) but after a few seconds cranking it displays the message, "UEGO offline.":
Resized_20200425_113024.jpeg


Top of the engine, at the back:
Resized_20200425_113034.jpeg


Over the fuel rail, I believe this is a fuel pressure regulator:

Resized_20200425_113113.jpeg


Above the intake manifold by the brake booster. If you look down past the master cylinder,you see a black hose going from left to right. We see the open end of that hose in the next picture:
Resized_20200425_113120.jpg


Over by the driver's side fender, more wires a loose relay, that switch from before and some wires. I think this open ended hose is going to the IACV under the intake manifold:
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
More pictures across roughly the center, from passenger side to driver's side:
More loose wires:
Resized_20200425_113151.jpeg

Looking down at the turbo. That water line is in the way of mounting an air filter. I am trying to build something for an air filter now: Resized_20200425_113200.jpeg

Top of the engine:
Resized_20200425_113214.jpg


Here is a hose that goes to the blow-off valve. You can't tell from the picture, but only 3 of the 4 wires going to the throttle position sensor are hooked up:
Resized_20200425_113222.jpeg



The fuse box. Another rat's nest, disconnected wires and 4 disconnected factory plugs:
Resized_20200425_113232.jpeg Resized_20200425_113521(1).jpeg
 

Attachments

Black95

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
63
Location
Calgary
Across the front is boring by comparison. PS to DS:
Resized_20200425_113242.jpeg Resized_20200425_141137.jpeg


This is the area I want to run the air filter to: Resized_20200425_113248.jpeg


HKS timing belt, and if I remember correctly, it has HKS cams: Resized_20200425_113305.jpeg

Another picture of the area around the throttle body:
Resized_20200425_113320.jpeg Resized_20200425_113344.jpeg