See post 10. The camaro V6 clutches are very close. I picked the s10 clutch because I knew it would fit, but these might work also.Any idea if we have any other possible options other than the S10 clutch? Only sintered iron disk I've found was from spec, but I really don't want to run that pressure plate/clutch again since one of the main load springs on the PP just snapped.
Ask Aaron @ driftmotion, last time I asked him he was able to get one of his clutch suppliers to simply swap out the center section for one that was spline'd properly for the ar5 input shaft.Any idea if we have any other possible options other than the S10 clutch? Only sintered iron disk I've found was from spec, but I really don't want to run that pressure plate/clutch again since one of the main load springs on the PP just snapped.
No modification of the solstice input was required for me. Go figure.I'm doing the same thing, colorado AR5 to 1jz, and my initial attempt to bolt it up seemed to stop about 5mm short. So it would make sense that's whats happening with mine (splines bottoming out.)
Limequat: I take it the input shaft is longer on the colorado trans than the solstice one? You didn't have to do any modification of the input shaft, correct?
The other issue I'm having is the faceplate of the transmission that the SPEC hydraulic throwout sits against seems to be a few millimeters raised versus where it would be on an r154. To get it to sit flat I need to shim the screws that connect the throwout bearing to the bellhousing a few millimeters.
I'm wondering now if putting a plate between the bellhousing and the transmission might solve both problems. (move the face of the transmission back so that it's level with the mounting surface on the bellhousing, as well as moving the input shaft back enough that the splines don't interfere.)
I'm not sure if bringing the shaft back would make the shaft fall short of the pilot bearing though... One things obvious: I need to do more measuring!
And as for not being worth it (in terms of tangible benefit,) I've never been so deluded as to think my time-and-money pit was really "worth it"
Come on guys lets bring this swap to light for the entire supra community
so far we know this:
we need a pilot bearing from an e34 540i ( i have verified the dimensions and does work)
we need an ar5 transmission
the slave cylinder setup from the ar5 since im assuming it uses a push method instead of a pull method compared to the w58 and v160
we need a custom driveshaft
an s10 clutch has to be used
a 1jz to 2jz bellhousing has to be used for mkiv, 2jz/1jz, etc. owners.
we need to know the dimensions from a ma5 and an ar5 compared to the r154, it seems that the ma5 from a colorado will straight fit into an mkiv supra, Someone verify or post dimensions in terms of shifter location.
a digital speedometer has to be added for you to have an idea on your mph.
i assume the crossmember works fine for an mkiv?
what about the ar5 taco boxes? anyone experiment with that?
lets bring out more info guys come on
I'm doing a swap of the Solstise Engine And trans into a heavily modified '61 Volvo......Also, it has the Toyota shift arm attached....
1) Mine came from my stock trans: 1987 Supra Turbo. It should be the same part for any Supra turbo 1987-1992.I'm doing a swap of the Solstise Engine And trans into a heavily modified '61 Volvo.
The picture in the original post seems to have the cure for my current problem...
- I need to delete the stock Solstice shifter relocation assembly, it puts the stock shifter back too far...
but the internal trans reverse ball / pivot link is the problem.
I see you solved it with a "Toyota Shift Arm"...
1. can you tell me what year / model(s) I can find this part out of?
2. How far do I need to disassemble the trans to replace the ball link w/ the Toyota Arm?
limequat, can you elaborate please? I would much rather go with a Solstice trans over a Colorado, but I'm not up for making a custom driveshaft to suit the Solstice flange. Were you able to get a Toyota slip yoke to work?To me, the biggest hassle/expense was the custom driveshaft. I have some posts in this thread a couple years back. I've since ditched that setup and gone with a solution that uses a stock toyota truck driveshaft. You can mill the output flange on the solstice trans to take a standard toyota pattern. Find the appropriate length and bolt in. Would have saved hundreds off of my swap.
Sorry, I don't have pics, as that would make it plain...limequat, can you elaborate please? I would much rather go with a Solstice trans over a Colorado, but I'm not up for making a custom driveshaft to suit the Solstice flange. Were you able to get a Toyota slip yoke to work?
That got me thinking... do you think there's an adapter in existence that goes from the Solstice/GM flange to a regular 1310 u-joint end? That could solve a heap of issues.Sorry, I don't have pics, as that would make it plain...
But, what I did was use a complete shaft from a late 80s / early nineties Toy truck. It must be a 4WD. 4WD has flanges on both ends and a CV joint or slip joint in the middle.
I then milled the solstice output flange to accept the standard toyota 4wd flange. With this modification, it's a stock/junkyard/$50 driveshaft.
The truck driveshafts came in a variety of lenghts (short cab, extended cab, truck, SUV, etc, etc) but there is one that is the exact right size for a MA5 supra.
What's your application? If it's a toyota, just use the toyota stuff because it's easier. Also you don't have to pull the trans to fix a slave issue.Just got my solstice transmission trying to figure out would it be better to use the solstice internal slave or use my old r154 slave? Also have any better pics of the tail end for the driveshaft?
Lol, too bad!I have a is300 with 2jzgte vvti i had a r154 and stupidly sold most of my stuff from the rage lol. I would like to see the back of your trans so i can figure out how im going to do the driveshaft though im sure its in this thread i think i was having trouble understanding what u did after taking off the rear spline from the ar-5.