Another 7M ground up build

Z06gette

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Seriously Debrucer on the "burner accounts" lol My wife thinks my car obsession is bad enough the last thing I need is for her to think I have an alter ego on social media LOL
 
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Z06gette

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Ecumaster Classic and Pnp harness showed up today! Plaaya any advice? I know you worked out some hiccups with yours.
 

Z06gette

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This may be a dumb question, but is the stock afm needed at all for setup or anything? I know with Det3 you have to convert but with the standalone it will know that in the base tune?
 

figgie

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This may be a dumb question, but is the stock afm needed at all for setup or anything? I know with Det3 you have to convert but with the standalone it will know that in the base tune?
the AFM is not needed but you will need a Manifold air pressure sensor and air temp sensor which is the basic items required to run speed density. Of course the EMS has to support that which i supposed the ECUMaster EMS does.

if you don't have those, then you will need the AFM but
 

Z06gette

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Yeah I knew about those, but cool. I’m in the process of taking out my old harness so I can freshen it up and get rid of what’s not needed.
 

plaaya69

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Ecumaster Classic and Pnp harness showed up today! Plaaya any advice? I know you worked out some hiccups with yours.
I would first start with what sensors/fail safes you would like to add and then make a list of features you would want such as if you wanted sequential fuel injection, the ignition coil set up, if you want to use the factory CPS or hall effect sensors, Bosch knock sensors or factory knock sensors, ect...

This first planing is critical and will give you a great starting point. Just to get it going you will need to wire in the wideband sensor and add a GM style air intake temp sensor. There is sensors you no longer need or will be required such as the cold start injector time switch, cold start injector, AFM, the 2 VSV's under the intake manifold, factory o2 sensor, HAC sensor (for the early year Supra's) to name some parts off the top.

When you have the standalone ready to install make sure you are running the latest version of the tuning firmware on your laptop. Once you have the latest version of the tuning firmware and you have key on power to your installed ECU Masters standalone, then have it connected to your laptop through the USB cable so you can update the standalone firmware. After the standalone is updated then I would upload a base 7mGTE map and verify certain sensors are working and responding under the log section before I would fully start it just yet. The other thing I had a problem with was to sync the timing in the begging but I would recommend you use a good timing light to verify this step and during syncing it to the standalone.

Do you plan on making a new engine harness or are you going to use what is currently installed? Also do you still have my number? You can text me anytime with any questions you have along the way and if I am not busy at work I will get back to ya and help the best I can.
 

plaaya69

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that last post multiplies the question. I presume all those unused sensors remain in place and connected even when not used.
You can leave them in place and connected which wont hurt anything but we need all the weight reduction we can get ;)

You can also buy block off plates like for the cold start injector and if you wanted tap a 1/4" vacuum port to it that can be used for the fuel pressure regulator, BOV or to the MAP sensor. This is what I did for a extra dedicated vacuum source and the ARZ plate is a very nice piece:


When I made my engine harness I did not add wiring for these items but with the OEM engine harness, certain sensors are tied together in the wiring loom such as the cold start injector and cold start injector time switch. For the pin-out/wiring diagrams I remembered with the pigtail installed there was quite a few unused pins but I would compare the factory OEM engine harness pin out to the ECU masters pin-out on their site. This was one I made for a reference during this stage of the build:

 

Z06gette

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I would first start with what sensors/fail safes you would like to add and then make a list of features you would want such as if you wanted sequential fuel injection, the ignition coil set up, if you want to use the factory CPS or hall effect sensors, Bosch knock sensors or factory knock sensors, ect...

This first planing is critical and will give you a great starting point. Just to get it going you will need to wire in the wideband sensor and add a GM style air intake temp sensor. There is sensors you no longer need or will be required such as the cold start injector time switch, cold start injector, AFM, the 2 VSV's under the intake manifold, factory o2 sensor, HAC sensor (for the early year Supra's) to name some parts off the top.

When you have the standalone ready to install make sure you are running the latest version of the tuning firmware on your laptop. Once you have the latest version of the tuning firmware and you have key on power to your installed ECU Masters standalone, then have it connected to your laptop through the USB cable so you can update the standalone firmware. After the standalone is updated then I would upload a base 7mGTE map and verify certain sensors are working and responding under the log section before I would fully start it just yet. The other thing I had a problem with was to sync the timing in the begging but I would recommend you use a good timing light to verify this step and during syncing it to the standalone.

Do you plan on making a new engine harness or are you going to use what is currently installed? Also do you still have my number? You can text me anytime with any questions you have along the way and if I am not busy at work I will get back to ya and help the best I can.
awesome info! I bought the pnp harness for the ecumaster but I do want to run cop smart coils and go sequential for fuel, I have stock knock sensors currently. When adding these features since I have the pnp harness is it okay to just add jumper wires or does the stock setup with say the multi plex or batch injection prevent this?
 

Z06gette

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For instance the afm has the iat sensor built in so when adding a gm iat do you use the signal wire for iat from the afm and then ground it or add new jumper wires?
 

Z06gette

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For boost control, does anyone know if you can use a GM boost solenoid? I’m asking because obviously a lot of gm sensors are used for the (0-5v) ref and I have 2 gm boost solenoids from my Ecotec days
 

Z06gette

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I'M EXTREMELY motivated to get this thing going so im taking advantage of work being slow and reading the EMU manual again and picking out my features so sorry but ill post my questions as they arise...

For the anti lag feature is it better to go through the clutch switch or will I need to tap the wheel speed? If wheel speed what type of sensor is it Hall or VR?
 

Z06gette

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SEQUENTIAL FUEL INJECTION QUESTION, so pins no10, no20, no30 are the injectors they're obviously paired for batch injection does each lead need to be split and pinned for each separate injector?

For example no10 controls injectors 1&4 and that goes to pin #7 on the grey connector for stock injection. So if I wanted to go sequential and command each injector independently do I need to take the lead for no10 and send one to pin #7 for injector 1 and then another lead to pin #6 for injector 4?

How are you guys doing this? And to answer my own question I don't see why the gm boost solenoid wouldn't work so long as I have the DC parameters, can anyone confirm?
 

figgie

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SEQUENTIAL FUEL INJECTION QUESTION, so pins no10, no20, no30 are the injectors they're obviously paired for batch injection does each lead need to be split and pinned for each separate injector?

For example no10 controls injectors 1&4 and that goes to pin #7 on the grey connector for stock injection. So if I wanted to go sequential and command each injector independently do I need to take the lead for no10 and send one to pin #7 for injector 1 and then another lead to pin #6 for injector 4?

How are you guys doing this? And to answer my own question I don't see why the gm boost solenoid wouldn't work so long as I have the DC parameters, can anyone confirm?

no

you will have to do it at the injector side since the harness is branched. then you will need to run new wire from the EMS to the fuel injector and the setup tooth timing to tell the EMS when to fire each injector.
 
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Z06gette

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10/4 thanks for clarifying Figgie, and you mean for the timing just to manually input the tooth timing in the drop down box?

Work is slow so ive been scouring the forums all day in regards to wiring the injectors and active coil on plugs. Though at this point it seems like maybe is300 coils on stock wiring is the way to go? Any links would be appreciated too!
 

figgie

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If the EMS can support for sequential on both injector and ignition. I would forgo those IS300 and go for a full on coil on plug solution.

if you look up my build thread, i have the wiring pin out for the gtr coils. The only ignition coils that will have more energy than those will be the IGN1a coils.

 

plaaya69

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SEQUENTIAL FUEL INJECTION QUESTION, so pins no10, no20, no30 are the injectors they're obviously paired for batch injection does each lead need to be split and pinned for each separate injector?

For example no10 controls injectors 1&4 and that goes to pin #7 on the grey connector for stock injection. So if I wanted to go sequential and command each injector independently do I need to take the lead for no10 and send one to pin #7 for injector 1 and then another lead to pin #6 for injector 4?

How are you guys doing this? And to answer my own question I don't see why the gm boost solenoid wouldn't work so long as I have the DC parameters, can anyone confirm?
The problem with the factory engine harness is that 3 set's of injectors are paired in 2's together in the engine wiring harness loom. You would have to add 3 separate wires for each injector and then run the 3 wires that will already be in the engine harness for sequential injection. On a side note, if you plan on low independence fuel injectors keep the wiring in mind for the resistor box.

Your GM boost solenoid should work as you are able to change the percentages in the software for the voltage. I run a 3 port MAC solenoid that runs on 12v but there is other pins that use a 5v supply. For the boost control switch I use a AEM 12 position switch which uses a 5v signal for the input and drops around .4v each click on the switch.

For the anti lag feature, I will be going through the clutch switch when I get around to it. I did bypass that factory clutch switch (so you can start the Supra without pushing the clutch in) so it just makes it easier to use the existing factory clutch switch this way.
 

plaaya69

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Work is slow so ive been scouring the forums all day in regards to wiring the injectors and active coil on plugs. Though at this point it seems like maybe is300 coils on stock wiring is the way to go? Any links would be appreciated too!
The is300 coils found on the vvti 2jzGE can be a alternative. I actually bought 3 new of those Denso ignition coils, 3 NGK spark plug wires as well as made a small harness for the engine harness to connect it all to but I switched back to the 7mGTE coils since those worked very good. If you plan on bypassing the igniter, the built in igniter on the ECU Masters standalone provides a very strong powerful spark to power the factory 7mGTE coils without any problems I have noticed. I feel that if I pushed more power they will hold it but there has been some that make big power on the factory 7mGTE coils. Have you seen Alex's 900whp on factory 7mGTE coils and the ECU Masters standalone?



If I did not go with the factory 7mGTE coils then I would have looked more into getting six coil-on-plug coils.
 

Z06gette

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Thanks Playaa that's helpful. If im doing low imped injectors do I need to do anything with the resistor box? if I go high imped is it as simple as changing the settings in the map for the injectors?
 

plaaya69

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Thanks Playaa that's helpful. If im doing low imped injectors do I need to do anything with the resistor box? if I go high imped is it as simple as changing the settings in the map for the injectors?
No problem. On the low independence fuel injectors; if you go sequential injection and add 3 separate channels for the fuel injectors, just make sure you wire those added 3 injectors to the resistor box. On the wiring: 12v+ goes to the resistor box, then from the resistor box it goes to the fuel injectors and then from the fuel injectors it goes to the standalone which will end up grounded as they are commanded on.

I bought a early 90's Acura Legend V6 fuel injector box which works perfect since it already had 6 channels for 6 fuel injectors I wired for sequential fuel injection:


For high independence injectors it is much easier wire up since you do not need the resistor box. In the tuning software there is some preset tables and a list of different fuel injectors and sizes to get started but you still need to mess around with it during the start-up stage. I would just make sure either way you go research larger cc fuel injectors if you plan on more power later on or E85 as it is better to have some wiggle room and not put the injectors on a high duty cycle.
 
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figgie

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The ECUMaster EMS does not support peak & hold injectors (low impedance) directly? If it does then do not use the resistors. If it doesn't. you will have to figure out what impedance your injectors are and see if they meet the EMS threshold for "low impedance".
 
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Z06gette

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GREAT INFO GUYS! That answers my question and I believe it says high z injectors, I'd have to double check.
 

plaaya69

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The ECUMaster EMS does not support peak & hold injectors (low impedance) directly? If it does then do not use the resistors. If it doesn't. you will have to figure out what impedance your injectors are and see if they meet the EMS threshold for "low impedance".
It would be very nice to connect low impedance injectors directly but when I researched it before you need to add the proper resistance or controller for these injectors. This step alone adds a +1 point for going with high z injectors.
 

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figgie

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It would be very nice to connect low impedance injectors directly but when I researched it before you need to add the proper resistance or controller for these injectors. This step alone adds a +1 point for going with high z injectors.
Fascinating,

Great to know. I agree as the newer High-z injectors are as fast as the low-z stuff while using less power. I take the low-z/high-z stuff for granted as most of the ECU i use support both.
 

Z06gette

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Welp, disappointing update today. The crankshaft is bad on #6, it's definitely better to know now than if he kept pushing and end up with a knock. So I'm leaning towards sourcing another crank vs tearing down my other motor for space and time reasons.

So if anyone has a good 6 or 7m crank, I'm looking
 

Z06gette

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Good news boring went great, it only needed a slight clean up! Getting some 83mm wisecos and selling the 84's. Better to have the meat on the bone imo. I should have the crank out to the shop in about a week... Getting close.
 

andrew_mx83

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If they did any boring at all you'll need 83.5mm pistons. 83mm is std size, only applicable if they re-honed a virgin block but didn't bore it.
Might pay to double check before ordering just in case!
 

JISupra88

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Machine shop called, only .013 decked off the block. He said he did get a torque plate and would be doing the line hone this week.
Progress...
Also got the ACT 6 puck sprung disc and new oe bearings from driftmotion. Beyond excited
That's awesome news. did it cost extra to use? If he still has it in a month I'll probably use theirs.

I want to keep mine for wall art lol
 

Z06gette

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I used the one in Waukegan, but the nice part is they will use my local shop as hub to send and receive parts/ the engine.