Abe's first ma70 1jzgte swap

andrew_mx83

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To tell if a thread is left or right hand is easy.
Hold the bolt vertical in front of your face and look at the threads.
If the thread goes UP to the RIGHT it's a RH thread.
If the thread goes UP to the LEFT it's a LH thread.

These are RH threads. You can see how the thread form starts bottom left and moves UP to the RIGHT:


These are left hand threads, you can see the thread starting bottom right and going UP to the LEFT:
 

Abe's 1987

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what ive done today

Installed the intake manifold with the new driftmotion gasket. It is a bit thicker then stock but it will work. Im swapping out the two stud and nuts for bolts as one of the studs is not good and I prefer bolts.
20200513_153505.jpg

20200513_153614.jpg

Also installed the 7m oil pressure sensor with the driftmotion adapter. I repurposed the longer soarer throttle cable bracket to mount the sensor so it doesn't flop everywhere while I drive.

20200513_153542.jpg

20200513_153553.jpg

Also got the new thermostat installed and reinstalled the ac compressor. Still waiting on the bearing for the PS pump to reassemble and reinstall.
 
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Piratetip

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The big nut for the damper bracket covers all the threads.
So it's not easy to figure out if it's RH or LH.
Inspecting it very closely might let you see the edge of one thread thread though.
 

Abe's 1987

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To tell if a thread is left or right hand is easy.
Hold the bolt vertical in front of your face and look at the threads.
If the thread goes UP to the RIGHT it's a RH thread.
If the thread goes UP to the LEFT it's a LH thread.

These are RH threads. You can see how the thread form starts bottom left and moves UP to the RIGHT:


These are left hand threads, you can see the thread starting bottom right and going UP to the LEFT:
That big nut is blocking the thread view so not to sure how it looks.
 

Abe's 1987

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I used an inner tie rod removal kit like this one. I don't remember it being much of an issue though. There's something magical about impact wrenches.


View attachment 83764
I got the inner tie rod off, just can't get the damper bracket and nut off the inner tie rod. Will this tool work for that? It is a pretty big nut.
 

Piratetip

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Found the photo after much digging!



ENHANCE!


I've got some bad news for you.
That sucker is LH threaded. (Sorry I forgot, this photo was from 2017 when I did my steering rack shenanigans)
No wonder you can't get it off....
 

supramanjr

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Super excited, I just ordered my 1jz swap and will hopefully be getting it by tomorrow. It is said to be from a Toyota soarer. It does have the rear sump. It also has the mechanical fan setup. It has a automatic transmission but as shown above I have the r154 to drop in. I'll just have to wire things to for the manual tranny to function properly. Will have pictures as soon as I get the engine.
Hey there, just wondering who you bought your engine from. Im shopping around for a 2jzgte vvti swap and just wondering if you recommend any engine importers.
 

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Found the photo after much digging!



ENHANCE!


I've got some bad news for you.
That sucker is LH threaded. (Sorry I forgot, this photo was from 2017 when I did my steering rack shenanigans)
No wonder you can't get it off....
Oh dang it i guess this one is jacked up. Will have to see if i can get another one. I think I found a site from Japan that has the bracket and nut new. Not sure if I can trust them though. https://www.megazip.net/cart.

Also for the hell of it I'm going to go and try to break it free tomorrow even though the nut is far from saving. I still may be able to use the bracket
 
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Abe's 1987

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Hey there, just wondering who you bought your engine from. Im shopping around for a 2jzgte vvti swap and just wondering if you recommend any engine importers.
I got it from a local importer here in Houston. Jdm king motor Corp. But personally I think they all get the same quality engines from japan. I guess it depends where the importers get them from.

Also as I was searching for the 1jz I noticed the rear sump 2jz's are hard to come by. Most I was seeing was the front sump.
 

Abe's 1987

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ok after a long prep talk and a little lovin I got it to break free actually turning it the correct way.

20200514_143803.jpg

20200514_143824.jpg

20200514_143808.jpg

I will definitely be able to reuse the bracket but that nut is tore up. I may try to make it work or may find another one. Im still waiting on someone who may have them.
 

Abe's 1987

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Boom!!!!
20200514_175522.jpg
Bang!!!
20200514_175539.jpg
Pow!!!!
20200514_175547.jpg
Fully rebuilt power steering pump!!!!
20200514_182159.jpg

But a bad pulley again the i ordered. I now have two bad pulleys.
 

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You sure it's the pulley?
My money is on a bent shaft.

This was an engine assembly that was sitting around somewhere right?
I bet they dropped the weight of that engine a little or a lot on that pump and bent the shaft.
 

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You sure it's the pulley?
My money is on a bent shaft.

This was an engine assembly that was sitting around somewhere right?
I bet they dropped the weight of that engine a little or a lot on that pump and bent the shaft.
Nah its the pulley. I had the pump apart because I thought it was the shaft that was bent but the shaft is straight. Both pulleys looks like it is bent in the center. I even put the pulleys on a screwdriver and spinned it to see maybe it is the shaft. It spins like that on the screwdriver as well, all flop sided. And yes it was sitting in a warehouse. And the second pulley I got was from a junk yard. I may see if my brother would let me snatch his sc300 pulley as that is a running car to make dang sure it isn't the shaft.
 

Piratetip

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That is some bad luck to have 2 bent pulleys!
 

Abe's 1987

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Exactly what I said. The junk yard seller i bought the second one from agreed to do an exchange. Hopefully I don't get a third strike. Then I'll know that something else is going on.
 

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So update, ordered the inner tie rod, outer tie rod, lower ball joints, and rack and pinion bushings. Still waiting on my buddy to see if he can get me the steering damper bracket and nut. I already have the bellows to swap out. I didn't notice any leaks from the rack and pinion so I know I'm good on that. Will be painting the engine bay in the next couple days as this supra needs a good paint job. Might as well do the engine bay now while I have most everything out. I'm still waiting on toyota on some parts on order and waiting on the power steering pulley exchange. Still need to work on the harness repair and extension. And more and more and more things to do.

I know the steering dampers on our cars are discontinued, are there any substitution damper we can use. I know i saw the lexus ls uses a steering damper, would that be compatible?
 

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Ok so im not to happy with the driftmotion 1jz intake manifold gasket they have made. I cant seem to get the right torque and it seems like I'm about the stripe the threads on the bolts or the head. Their gaskets is much more thicker then the stock. Im considering using the old gaskets the engine first came with. Im thinking about using the copper spray a gasket spray to make sure it seals right. What do you guys think. I can find the stock gaskets for these 1jz intake manifold.
 

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Or should I use a small bead of rtv around the old gasket?

Also I wonder if driftmotion will do a return on the gaskets?
 

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I wouldn't use RTV.
Maybe bring up the issue with driftmotion?
Wouldn't think they would sell an inferior part like that, does not make sense to me.
I'd use an OEM gasket there.
 

Abe's 1987

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I wouldn't use RTV.
Maybe bring up the issue with driftmotion?
Wouldn't think they would sell an inferior part like that, does not make sense to me.
I'd use an OEM gasket there.
Ok so i don't think driftmotion products are bad, I think with the age of the engine I don't think the bolts or head are able take the torque of compressing the new driftmotion gasket. I just stop torqueing once I started feeling the bolts seemed like they where going to stripe. Driftmotion products seems like high quality stuff to me. Even their off brand rear main seals seems to be same as toyota's.

I still have the oem gaskets the engine came with but they don't look in great shape. I want to try to reuse them as toyota doesn't make the stock ones anymore.
 

3p141592654

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That gasket looks like it is designed to be a thermal insulator to prevent heat traveling from the head into the manifold. Pretty sure that is why it is so thick. I'm personally not a big fan of them, but they exist for many engine families.
 

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That gasket looks like it is designed to be a thermal insulator to prevent heat traveling from the head into the manifold. Pretty sure that is why it is so thick. I'm personally not a big fan of them, but they exist for many engine families.
Exactly what it is pi. The only places I can find the oem gaskets is from Australia. Shipping is crazy on them so I thought I'd give these a try. Been emailing Aaron back and forth today. He told me what I was doing wrong. So it will work.
 

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My great buddy came through with another tie rod setup
20200520_152001.jpg

Here is my setup that did indeed break the nut free with minimal damage to the parts
20200520_165024.jpg
And yes my bench vise has no bench attached to it. Working on building a good bench.

And here is the end game of a beautiful nut not jacked up
20200520_165142.jpg
20200520_165148.jpg

And on the lighter note if anyone needs any kind of mk3 supra part let me know as my buddy is the king of used mk3 supra parts. He can get you almost any part from the mk3 supra.
 
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Abe's 1987

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So im pretty much about to break my budget so I'm considering just reusing all the coolant and vacuum hoses that are not completely trashed. I want to deep clean them and was just thinking of how to do so. I was thinking of giving them a nice dish soap bath but am not certain if that would dry out the rubber hoses. Any advice on that?
 

Piratetip

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Soap shouldn't hurt them at all.
I would recommend at least replacing all hoses in the hard to reach places at least.
If those fail later it's going to be a pain to replace them.
Everything at the backside of the engine / underneath the intake and exhaust manifolds.

The rest are fairly easy to swap out later if they fail.
My .02 c.
 

Abe's 1987

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Soap shouldn't hurt them at all.
I would recommend at least replacing all hoses in the hard to reach places at least.
If those fail later it's going to be a pain to replace them.
Everything at the backside of the engine / underneath the intake and exhaust manifolds.

The rest are fairly easy to swap out later if they fail.
My .02 c.
Yeah was considering at least to change the hard to reach ones like ya said. Still going back and forth in my head.
 

Abe's 1987

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Ok so how much pressure is there in the pressure side of the power steering line? I'm thinking of using a flared coupling to join the 7m and 1jz pressure lines together with some fuel line clamps for that tight clamping power. Any thoughts on that?
 

Piratetip

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Up to 1,000 psi on full lock.
Otherwise in the 50-150 psi range normally.
Fast steering inputs or low speed parking lot manuvers will also drive the pressure high.
 

Abe's 1987

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Up to 1,000 psi on full lock.
Otherwise in the 50-150 psi range normally.
Fast steering inputs or low speed parking lot manuvers will also drive the pressure high.
Yikes might need to consider having a shop do some kind of pressure fitted coupler to combine the two lines. Definitely don't want them to pop apart while driving.
 

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2jzgte mkiv throttle cable next to a 7mgte mkiii throttle cable
20200522_183000.jpg

2jzgte mkiv throttle cable installed
20200522_184700.jpg

This part of the fuel line on the supra will fit perfectly to the damper and return on the 1jz. Im relieved i don't have to modify anything. Even the banjo bolt from that lines fits perfectly onto the 1jz damper.
20200522_184817.jpg
20200522_185442.jpg

I still need to think what im going to do as far as the power steering pressure line. If i could get my hands on this adapter that came in the toyota chaser 2.5 twin turbo it would work perfectly for me.

2020-05-22_19.32.07.jpg
 

Abe's 1987

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Tore apart the front end to prep and paint the engine bay
20200523_180119.jpg
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20200523_175907.jpg
As you can see the last person who painted the car did a terrible job masking things off and got paint all over the front of the condenser and components
 

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Got the new polyurethane rack bushings in today. Here they are compared to the old dirty rubber ones.
20200525_120515.jpg

Not to happy with this ebay seller I ordered my tie rod set from. They are taking their sweet time to get the parts shipped out. I may request a refund and order from somewhere else. They have a good deal on tie rods and lower ball joint so I figured I'd take the opportunity, I guess not.
 

Piratetip

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I use those same bushings for my steering rack. :)