I used an inner tie rod removal kit like this one. I don't remember it being much of an issue though. There's something magical about impact wrenches.
That big nut is blocking the thread view so not to sure how it looks.To tell if a thread is left or right hand is easy.
Hold the bolt vertical in front of your face and look at the threads.
If the thread goes UP to the RIGHT it's a RH thread.
If the thread goes UP to the LEFT it's a LH thread.
These are RH threads. You can see how the thread form starts bottom left and moves UP to the RIGHT:
These are left hand threads, you can see the thread starting bottom right and going UP to the LEFT:
I got the inner tie rod off, just can't get the damper bracket and nut off the inner tie rod. Will this tool work for that? It is a pretty big nut.
Hey there, just wondering who you bought your engine from. Im shopping around for a 2jzgte vvti swap and just wondering if you recommend any engine importers.Super excited, I just ordered my 1jz swap and will hopefully be getting it by tomorrow. It is said to be from a Toyota soarer. It does have the rear sump. It also has the mechanical fan setup. It has a automatic transmission but as shown above I have the r154 to drop in. I'll just have to wire things to for the manual tranny to function properly. Will have pictures as soon as I get the engine.
Oh dang it i guess this one is jacked up. Will have to see if i can get another one. I think I found a site from Japan that has the bracket and nut new. Not sure if I can trust them though. https://www.megazip.net/cart.Found the photo after much digging!
I've got some bad news for you.
That sucker is LH threaded. (Sorry I forgot, this photo was from 2017 when I did my steering rack shenanigans)
No wonder you can't get it off....
I got it from a local importer here in Houston. Jdm king motor Corp. But personally I think they all get the same quality engines from japan. I guess it depends where the importers get them from.Hey there, just wondering who you bought your engine from. Im shopping around for a 2jzgte vvti swap and just wondering if you recommend any engine importers.
Nah its the pulley. I had the pump apart because I thought it was the shaft that was bent but the shaft is straight. Both pulleys looks like it is bent in the center. I even put the pulleys on a screwdriver and spinned it to see maybe it is the shaft. It spins like that on the screwdriver as well, all flop sided. And yes it was sitting in a warehouse. And the second pulley I got was from a junk yard. I may see if my brother would let me snatch his sc300 pulley as that is a running car to make dang sure it isn't the shaft.You sure it's the pulley?
My money is on a bent shaft.
This was an engine assembly that was sitting around somewhere right?
I bet they dropped the weight of that engine a little or a lot on that pump and bent the shaft.
Ok so i don't think driftmotion products are bad, I think with the age of the engine I don't think the bolts or head are able take the torque of compressing the new driftmotion gasket. I just stop torqueing once I started feeling the bolts seemed like they where going to stripe. Driftmotion products seems like high quality stuff to me. Even their off brand rear main seals seems to be same as toyota's.I wouldn't use RTV.
Maybe bring up the issue with driftmotion?
Wouldn't think they would sell an inferior part like that, does not make sense to me.
I'd use an OEM gasket there.
Exactly what it is pi. The only places I can find the oem gaskets is from Australia. Shipping is crazy on them so I thought I'd give these a try. Been emailing Aaron back and forth today. He told me what I was doing wrong. So it will work.That gasket looks like it is designed to be a thermal insulator to prevent heat traveling from the head into the manifold. Pretty sure that is why it is so thick. I'm personally not a big fan of them, but they exist for many engine families.
Yeah was considering at least to change the hard to reach ones like ya said. Still going back and forth in my head.Soap shouldn't hurt them at all.
I would recommend at least replacing all hoses in the hard to reach places at least.
If those fail later it's going to be a pain to replace them.
Everything at the backside of the engine / underneath the intake and exhaust manifolds.
The rest are fairly easy to swap out later if they fail.
My .02 c.
Yikes might need to consider having a shop do some kind of pressure fitted coupler to combine the two lines. Definitely don't want them to pop apart while driving.