92 Build thread

lifted

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This is the second supra i have owned. i had a maroon 86.5. even tough it was an maroon and na i still loved the car. I had no money and didn't get to do much to it, but have always missed it. so when i got a bit older, and better shape financially i got another supra. This time i went with a white 92. After going back and forth allot i decided to drop a 2j into it.

i started with just a few things like timing belt, and water pump. that turned into cam seals, front and rear main, all vacuum and water lines, powder coating the piping and valve covers.


first day she came home. drove out to st Louis to pick her up
 

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lifted

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first thing i did was the suspension. new coil-overs, ball joints, outer tie rod ends, end links.

the small one is my son, he is not doing a whole lot but hes good company. except when he is "fixing" the fender by stabbing it with a screw driver.
 

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then i got the 2j in. the little one if "fixing" the transmission. its the auto that came with it so its a good target for his efforts.
 

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then i got to work on the 2jz. it ballooned into replacing allot of stuff. so any wear item for the most part i replaced. new vacuum lines, new water lines, cam seals, rear main, and front main, timing belt, vvti gear rebuild, rear sump swap, and some clean up.
 

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Piratetip

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I've moved the thread to the correct section.

Looks a lot like when my kids are "helping".
LOL

Good stuff.
 
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A70nut

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I had the same problem with the engine bay paint, it seems that the single stage just yellows overtime because of the radiant heat from the turbo setup and downpipe. I ended up repainting the engine bay as the rest of it needed work, but I wouldnt advise going back single stage after doing it myself.
 

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not sure if i am going to get that picky about it or not.
It's a lot more work to do it right, just depends if you can live with it or not really. The good thing if you decided to not do it is that those twins will hide pretty much all the firewall on that side so it'll be much harder to see it there.
 

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now we are all stuck in our houses, i talked the wife into helping me pull the old 7m
I think the day I get my wife to look that happy to be pulling an engine will be the day I've officially "won" at life.

Cool to see a 92 getting some good treatment. Keep up with the pics and thanks for sharing the progress!
 

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I think the day I get my wife to look that happy to be pulling an engine will be the day I've officially "won" at life.

Cool to see a 92 getting some good treatment. Keep up with the pics and thanks for sharing the progress!


its not everyday, but she is good company when i can get her out to help.
 

lifted

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i did iget it a bit cleaner. im more worried about the inner fenders because as was stated most of the firewall will be covered.
 

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spent last night getting the harness setup (thanks Tweak)


side note Cam from Tweakd is incredible. i called to ask him some questions about different plugs i didn't know where to plug in and he knew not only where to plug them but could tell me the wire colors for every connector.



also got the oil lines for the turbos on. i tried to use the stock lines but after the rear sump swap they just wouldn't work.
 

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Looking good!
You will enjoy having a parts washer.
 
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lifted

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trying to figure out where t ground the harness. there are a couple grounds on the intake side of the harness.
 

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trying to figure out where t ground the harness. there are a couple grounds on the intake side of the harness.
Most of the ground points on jz engines on the intakes are all of the bolt holes that are at 45° angles on the shock tower side of the casting. The harness should want to fall somewhat into place though.
 

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Most of the ground points on jz engines on the intakes are all of the bolt holes that are at 45° angles on the shock tower side of the casting. The harness should want to fall somewhat into place though.

the intake manifold support on the back side doesnt fit with the driftmotion motor mount brackets. i doubt the support is actually needed, but i noticed it probably also ties the block ground to the mani. so i made a ground cable to tie the block ground to the mani and will use a ground strap from it to the chassis. I will also use one on each side of the head to the firewall, this along with the start ground to battery should be enough, i think?
 

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the intake manifold support on the back side doesnt fit with the driftmotion motor mount brackets. i doubt the support is actually needed, but i noticed it probably also ties the block ground to the mani. so i made a ground cable to tie the block ground to the mani and will use a ground strap from it to the chassis. I will also use one on each side of the head to the firewall, this along with the start ground to battery should be enough, i think?
If you want it like a factory setup it goes like this, the harness grounds through the intake, the head grounds on the passenger side to the firewall, then the block ground grounds to the battery. The trans also grounds to the chassis.
 

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If you want it like a factory setup it goes like this, the harness grounds through the intake, the head grounds on the passenger side to the firewall, then the block ground grounds to the battery. The trans also grounds to the chassis.
the 2j has the head ground on the opposite side.

so the negative from the battery goes to the block?



i did know about grounding on the manifold, but that support bar i removed im pretty sure was the only thing that tied the manifold to the ground as i think the gaskets insulate it from the block (im using the thicker drift motion manifold gaskets that cut down on heat transfer) thats why i created a ground wife to tie the manifold back to the block ground.
 

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I would take pictures for the grounds for you but sadly the car isnt at home so I cant, but yes, block to battery via big battery harness, then head to firewall and harness to intake.

And on the items in your picture, the driver side shock tower is the resistor pack for low impedance injectors and hanging off it is the pressure sensor for the boost gauge. Passenger shock tower is the fuel pump 2 stage resistor and relay for that (there is a write up called the 12v mod to delte that one), then the lower pieces on the driver side are a/c clutch relay and the relay for the a/c fans on the back of the radiator. The relay on the passenger side is for the 3rd a/c fan that some of these cars came with that you will notice in front of the passenger side of the condenser.
 

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I would take pictures for the grounds for you but sadly the car isnt at home so I cant, but yes, block to battery via big battery harness, then head to firewall and harness to intake.

And on the items in your picture, the driver side shock tower is the resistor pack for low impedance injectors and hanging off it is the pressure sensor for the boost gauge. Passenger shock tower is the fuel pump 2 stage resistor and relay for that (there is a write up called the 12v mod to delte that one), then the lower pieces on the driver side are a/c clutch relay and the relay for the a/c fans on the back of the radiator. The relay on the passenger side is for the 3rd a/c fan that some of these cars came with that you will notice in front of the passenger side of the condenser.

so i dont need the resistor pack for the injectors?
 

A70nut

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If that engine is running factory aristo 440s then no you won't need the resistor pack as the aristo 440s are high impedance.
 
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lifted

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parts are rolling in. new clutch, flywheel, bell housing, and radiator. should have another box from drift-motion with the remaining parts to drop this motor in.
 

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lifted

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anyone know what the part number is for the coolant level sensor at the bottom of the overflow tank? sensor and gasket?