Hi welcome to SM!! LOL yes partly because an auto is faster in a straight line when compared to a similarly built manual, but mostly because my Supra will be my DD once again when she runs (the sc will take over as project car), and Austin traffic is not conducive for manuals LOL. In the future when I finally turn the Supra into a track monster, I will convert to manual, OR ... and this is a BIG or, figure out a way to attach a 5+ speed auto with the suprastick for paddleshifting awesomeness. But that's just me dreaming big.
I'm really starting to get fed up with this shit. Roommates complain that my Supra is hogging the garage, and when I try to get parts to have her running ASAP, they complain when rent is late. FFS. I only make so much money, I go to school fulltime on a campus that is over half an hour away, I'm trying to study for an engineering transfer degree so I don't have time to work, and the stupid government is half a month late on my compensation. I wish I could just be a bum and not have to pay any rent or bills. I knew I should've stayed in Oregon and lived with my dad. Fuck My Life.
Yeah... it just sucks... I can't figure out a way around how tight money is. Maybe if I can start selling artwork or something... I can crank out good drawrings pretty well once I hit my stride.
It's a two car garage that they "never use anyways". I gave them fair warning and made sure they were ok with a dead Supra in the garage for an extended time. And now that they got a garage door opener, her beat up Honda Civic needs to be inside oh so bad.
LOL. I could do that, but they got the opener as a present over the holidays. Besides, I'm not one to break anything intentionally... though I gotta admit, I liked it when the garage had to be opened by hand, never a complaint about the Supra on stilts. *sigh... It's ok though, I'm a Marine, I got skin so thick I may as well be bulletproof. XD trollololol
As you can see.... super glossy. At first I was like... I don't remember my parts looking this shiny after paint, then I realized it was Super gloss Engine Enamel -_-. FML Oh well, I hope it doesn't look tacky once everything is bolted together.
And finally the question of the day: How to plumb my engine oil cooler lines??
I drew up some diagrams in an effort to make picking AN fittings easier, then I realized I had a dilemma regarding the engine oil lines. My understanding of the stock system is this: Oil goes to the filter housing on the block and back to the block under a certain pressure, over it, it routes excess oil to the cooler which then returns to the oil pan and not the block. Question: Even with the oil routed to the cooler, does oil still flow to the block? If so, then I can conclude that flow to the block is essential. So with the aftermarket setup, as you can see in my pic, flow will go the filter then to the block, where under 160F it will return to the block and over 160F it will continue on to the oil cooler then back to the block. Question: IF, the stock system is pressure based, will my setup cause over pressurization if I don't have a secondary return port? I have planned to plug the oil pan return line and allow all oil to return to the block. So should I just route it all back to the block? or should I still utilize the oil pan return line? Discuss.
There is a relief valve in the oil pump which should limit the oil pressure. IMO, there is zero need for any additional pressure relief. The stock system only has the second relief to allow flow to the cooler. Once the oil is past the pump you should flow all of it to the engine.
Aight here are some pics and questions to accompany a few of them.
After finally cutting the poly swaybar bushings, I noticed they stuck out much further than the bracket... should I trim them flush?
Stock subframe bushings OUT!!!
Really disappointed in the quality of paint from Rockauto's "rebuilt" sources, so I stripped the steering rack as well.
That's it for now. Cleaned up the SC today, will be driving up to Houston tomorrow for TX2K12!! Woot!! Still bummed by Supra won't make it... next year though!! And hopefully by then I will be close to my 700hp goal.
Thanks guys!! really appreciate the positive feedback. I'm sure you guys know how anal I am about things though... If I could have things my way and not be limited by money... I would have everything powdercoated LOL. I hate it when paint chips -_-. And may I just include this tidbit... I despise spray cans with a passion.
For what part? for lower brackets and parts exposed to stuff from below, I used Eastwood chassis paint. Remove rust with chem dip, clean well, then eastwood chassis primer, then top coat. For parts exposed to high heat, like the shields by the exhaust, I used high temp silicone paint. Same prep, a couple coats of the silicone paint. For parts on the top, throttle linkages, brackets, ps pump, coil pack base, etc etc I used regular black engine enamel. Same prep, no primer though.
Hmm...I've been stalling painting a couple different pieces in my bay (engine hooks, turbo heat shield, radiator brackets, etc) until I found a good paint and I may have to try out some silicone paint. I've seen that in the auto stores before, but never seen it used. It turned out really well on a lot of your parts.
A word about the silicone paint, the only pieces I painted with that was the bracket for the CT to the head and the two shields where the exhaust goes (one protects the brake lines, the other the speedo line). The brand I got was DEI I believe and it's supposed to be heated to 400 degrees to cure. I thought that meant putting it in the oven for a bit, but then it only softened the paint and made it sticky, so after some research, I found that people were painting their parts and then installing them and letting the exhaust heat do the work of curing it. In other words, it won't work very well on parts that don't get heated up that much. Plus it looks like a matte dark brown, not very appealing. For the parts you listed (besides the heat shield, the silicone paint is fine for that) I would just use the regular black engine enamel. The brand I use is duplicolor.
Things are coming together pretty nicely (except my landlady now wants to charge me $200 a month to use the garage. fuck that). But I just got a novel idea, let's see what ya'll think. I am having a hard time finding a good spot to put my B&M super cooler for engine oil. It's too big to put in the stock location and I can't fit it behind the fogs since that area is taken up by engine and trans oil fiters. I just noticed however, that the stock Power Steering "cooler" runs through some nice empty space in a good airflow spot. What if, I use the stock engine oil cooler (retain the same stock location) for PS cooling, and remove the stock PS cooling tubes and put the new engine oil cooler in its spot? thoughts? I just tested it, it would be a perfect fit after I also relocate one of the horn.
Sounds good to me but I know some have placed the cooler in between the condenser and radiator. Not sure how that would fit though but wherever you put it, make sure it will get enough air flow.
More important, what's the plan about the land lady. A 200 increase. Jeez. If she wants to do that, tell her nobody else uses the garage since I read a post about a girl having a junk car and didn't want to park on the street.
I think I recall reading that the stock engine oil cooler doesn't have nearly sufficient flow for PS since it's not full flow. Between the intercooler and the AC condenser sounds fine otherwise though. That is where I would have mounted mine.
I decided not to use the stock cooler, mainly because a friend told me I would never be able to get it clean enough to use with the PS system and not ruin the pump. LOL. Im going to put my engine oil cooler between (more on top of) the IC and AC condenser, and get another B&M cooler of smaller dimensions for the PS system and put that in the stock oil cooler location.
I told my landlady that as soon as the Supra is running again, the garage will free up. :/ I'm gonna help them by sealing the concrete later on.
Today I had major issues with alignment. I measure the travel of the steering rack, found its center as best I could and matched it with the steering wheel, a perfect 1.33 turn either way. However after doing that, no matter what I did, I couldn't seem to get the driver side wheel to straighten out. With everything centered and the tie rod screwed all the way in until no more threads were left, the wheel still looked like it was turned slightly to the left. I managed to get the passenger side straightened out and cambered back to stock as much as I could visually. My first stop will have to be at an alignment shop, so I'm just trying to get everything as close as I can so I don't die on the way there. LOL and then the threads on my new tie rods got screwed up (don't ask how LOL), so I'll use my old ones and get new ones later. FML
I really want to push the car out and give her a wash before I drop the engine in... the car is filthy and I can barely see through the glass. Too bad it takes 3-4 ppl to push my car up the inclined driveway and back into the garage... so I'll have to come up with a solution for that... push it with the sc? O.O
Thanks Devin!!! Looking forward to getting parts back =D. Out of all the parts sent out, the valve body left last and returns first lol. Engine is still in machine shop and Albert is probably still waiting for his polisher to get back to him about my turbo >_<
Got this novel idea from a MK4 I saw at TX2K12. We shall see how it holds up and if it affects performance at all in a negative manner (heavier fan... change in fan clutch performance?)
At least it looks IP II IIVII II IP II INI
As you can see... I was unable to clean everything as much as I would've liked... and I didn't even bother with the springs and shocks since those will be gone as soon as I get new rims/brakes... <--- those two alone = well over 5K. shit.
Breakfast of Champions
Was a bitch getting this off/out
Passenger side. Wheel was off with steering pan and rack at dead center.
Still off a bit
Driver side... MUCH worse. Here I already have the tie rod screwed all the way in on the rack link
Thanks guys!! LOL. But now I have issues. Landlady reeeeally wants her half of the garage, which I find amusing because if she does park in the garage, her car is going to be all up in my way when I work on my car... and there's no room for her car and mine and two transmissions and an engine (once I get it back that is). So anyways, I really want to move my car, BUT remember the driveway is an incline and it took 4 men to push my car back in last time, but we were lucky because they happened to be the garage door installers. This time, it's just me. And I never see any of my neighbors, and they are mostly old people I see or fat folks who don't look very fit and able to help me push a 3600lb car around. I'm wondering if I can push it with the SC. Use a gratuitous amount of padding and insulation between the bumpers and just slooooowly push the car up the driveway. Do you guys think the rear bumper can take that kind of force? It's the only solution I can think of...