87 7MGE to 7MGTE build LOT OF PICS

supra1008

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#1
I wasn't going to post this, but then I'm bored at work and took a lot of pics during the project. I know how we all LOVE pics here so I thought I'd post them up. Enjoy! Lmk what you think

This is my sisters supra. We bought it back in 2002. It's an 87 Supra NA 5spd. We are the 2nd owners. It was bone stock when we bought it. Didn't even have the spoiler and had the stock radio. We both learned how to drive manual in this car. Lol. Been wanting to go turbo on this for awhile now. It's been god awful slow for too long now. We thought we'd finally fix it up.

This pic is from a while ago right after I put some tein ss coilovers on it.


I was at a junk yard in nj and came across a supra w 91-92 5 spoke wheels. Got them on the spot!! $25/wheel!! Worked out nice cause the sawblades needed new tires badly!!! Wrapped them in some bridgestone potenza pole positions. Handles and drives like a dream now!! Even in the rain or light snow!!










I got a turbo motor with rod knock off a friend. It actually only had under 50k miles on this but the turbo blew so all the oil went into the ic piping. He gave me an extra crank. I took it to the garage and ripped it apart, took it to the machine shop. Ordered some .020 over NPR pistons and clevite .010 under bearings and a lot more parts from Driftmotion. Thanks Aaron!

---------- Post added at 11:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 AM ----------

Pics.

When I just got it on the stand.




took off the head












 
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supra1008

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#3
After getting the block and head back from the machinist. NPR pistons. Stock rods. ARP rod bolts and head studs, clevite bearings, 6m crank micropolished.












---------- Post added at 12:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 PM ----------

very nice build man. Keep up the good work
Thanks. Will try!
 
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supra1008

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Water pump, timing belt rear cover. Actually had to send it back cause the guy didn't deck it with the block. *sigh*






polished stock cams
















.

Still have a lot more pics. I'll let you guys catch up for a bit. ;) lol
 

mecevans

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#6
Your not using a MHG right? That surface finish does not look good enough to seal one...
 

Moy

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#7
Yeah when I saw that head gasket surface I'm like "please tell me he's not using a..." then saw it "yep, that sucks"

That surface finish is NOT smooth enough for a MHG, a composite type maybe, because the material would partially fill in the ridges, but for a MHG you want an almost mirror like finish
 

supra1008

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#8
I was afraid of that. ^ some said I'd be ok. I didn't think so. WTF!

---------- Post added at 02:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:40 PM ----------

So either I have to take it apart and get a mirror finish or just get a cometic or something. :-/

---------- Post added at 02:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------

Any body wanna buy a hks stopper? No miles on it lol!
 

Moy

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#9
even a cometic probably wouldn't seal. you'd have to use a stock type gasket. or take it all apart and have the headgasket surfaces fixed. that current surface is super rough
 

supra1008

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#10
WTF! I guess I'm taking this shit apart then and getting it machined with a mirror finish. Good thing I got a thick enough hg. Atleast I'm doing it now rather than getting bhg, fking everything up and having to spend even more money and time.
 

mecevans

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#11
Getting machine work is like getting your hair cut. If you dont explicitly tell them what you want dont be disapointed by the results.

Your instructions with that gasket will have the RA requirements. Go back there and tell them to do it right or stay away and take it to someone that can.
 
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BrandonW

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#12
i saw the surface too and was like wtf nooo

same thing happened to me when i had mine machined but they forgot the rear timing case and when i sent the block back for them to redo the machining with rear timing case on the block the surface was smoother and the ra was good enough it came out to ra of 23

tyler might be able to help you out i got help from him to see what my ra was and to see what hg thickness i needed, he measured that stuff for me

and make sure none of those rivets touch any surface they were close on mine but they just cleared
 

supra1008

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yea tyler saw it. He said the same thing. I'm just going to take it apart and get the mirror finish just to be safe. I'd rather spend $300 now than have to spend $1000 later.

i saw the surface too and was like wtf nooo

same thing happened to me when i had mine machined but they forgot the rear timing case and when i sent the block back for them to redo the machining with rear timing case on the block the surface was smoother and the ra was good enough it came out to ra of 23

tyler might be able to help you out i got help from him to see what my ra was and to see what hg thickness i needed, he measured that stuff for me

and make sure none of those rivets touch any surface they were close on mine but they just cleared
 

BrandonW

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#17
when we checked the ra on the head i got from dm, it was 8 i was like well im not even touching that lol
 

supra1008

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#18
Well since I have all these pics I'll post the rest anyway. Lol.





upgraded oil pump from Driftmotion








new ct26 57-trim with polished compressor housing and ceramic coated exhaust housing.






 

spencyg

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#19
You can probably fix the HG surface on the block yourself without doing much disassembly. If it were me, I'd go find yourself a place that sells cold rolled (CR) steel. Buy a 10" long bar measuring maybe 2"x1". Deburr the cut edges so you basically have a very flat piece of rigid steel. Use that as your sanding block, and buy a bunch of different grits of wet/dry sanding paper (quality stuff). Use a skim of oil, and starting at around 320g, work the surface down. You can probably do this with the pistons still in the block and the oil ports in the block going to the head being temporarily plugged). You should be able to cut those ridges down in short order. Don't do any more than necessary, and work up to maybe 800g paper. Always use the oil to keep the paper lubricated and make sure you keep the sanding block very stable on top of the engine casting. I've done this a couple times and it works fine...actually gets a better surface in the end than what the machine shop would send back. After you're done, make sure everything is very clean, cycle the pistons up and down with lots of oil in the bores, ragging everything out as you go. Don't forget to unplug the oil galleys in the block top after you're done!

Not the end of the world here...far from it actually.

SG in NE.
 

supra1008

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#20
Ok so here's what's been going on with this project. I completely disassembled the motor down to bare block took me little over an hour. Took the block and head to a different shop cause the original shop doesn't have a machine to do a better finish. Pshh. Not gonna go there anymore. Got the head and block back. It looks much better now. This past weekend I put it back on the stand and assembled most of it back together. Here are pics.













 

TweeT91109

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#22
He said he had a 2.0 which I think is way to big. But he should have plenty of Clearence, but measure it anyways, just to make sure. Unless its assembled already then you can't, without dissassembleing it again.
 

supra1008

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#23
He didn't take much off the head and block since it was already flat. The head gasket is still a too thick.

---------- Post added at 04:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:28 PM ----------

Yea the motor is pretty much assembled. Things left to do:

oil pan
Get some adapter fittings for to and from turbo
the big fitting for the back of the head to the heater core.
all new hoses
torque crank pulley
valve covers
coil packs and wires
harness

hopefully i'm not forgetting anything. for the most part thats it. I should be able to start pulling the na motor out of the car real soon. Already have a Hyper Tanabe catback, Bic bigmouth downpipe, will fab up a test pipe, When I sent the block and head back to the shop to be decked again, I had a flywheel resurfaced. Bought gaboonvipers clutch which he barely broke in.

pictures to come soon.
 
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supra1008

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#24
Anyone know the thread size for these fittings?

Fitting for back of head to heater valve


turbo water line


turbo water line


just wondering if someone already knew before I go measure them out. I'd like to make these an fittings
 

supra1008

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#25
The motor is pretty much ready to go in. Just need some parts off the current motor (ps pump, egr cooler and other knick knacks) So I pulled the motor yesterday after work. Pics.









































I hate gear oil!!!


 
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supra1008

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#29
Some more parts came in. FMIC, Gates Coolant hoses, Slave Cylinder, Pilot bearing, AFM, coilpack cover.








I also have a lexus AFM lying around somewhere but I thought I'd break the motor in with the stock toyota afm.

 

supra1008

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I think I'm going to try and pressure wash it. I don't have enough time to go around and purple power it with a tooth brush this time around. We'll see. I'll post pics of before and after of the bay. Gonna be a big job!!
 

supra1008

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#32
So I bought a decent pressure washer, soaked it in purple power and sprayed I down. So much quicker!!!! Next day I dropped the motor in. Started mocking up the ic piping.
Pics.









 

supra1008

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Thanks! Yea wish it was done right the first time. Atleast I corected it beforehand. Thanks to everyone that posted on here.
 

supra1008

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So haven't posted in a while. Finished the ic pipng and test pipe. Starts and runs. Have been breaking the motor in. Also took it to the dyno to break it in. Just some kinks here and there to iron out. Boosting good. Need to buy a boost gauge. Ordered a gauge pillar and bought an AEM wideband and an s3 short throw off emp. Thanks J! Just need to install it. It is throwing two codes. iirc they are 24 & 51 which i believe are afm and sensor. I'm guessing it's the cold start sensor since it goes straight to 800rpm on cold start. Once it warms up it's fine but has a weird idle. Might have a missfire. Gotta check. Also needs back left caliper. Other than that she's running nicely. Put almost 600miles on the motor now. I think I have some pics and a video of first start up.

Chris.