86 MK3 7M -> 1JZ Non-VVTi TT HELP!!

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#1
Okay, I apologize in advance for how sloppy or unorganized this post may be, please bear with me... I have quite a few questions concerning swapping a 1JZ-GTE Non-VVTi TT w/ R-154 Tranny into an 86 MK3 Supra

1. My main concern at the moment is based around other forums especially the 1JZ/2JZ Swap Guide for Dummies, and is focused on the shift housing on the back of the R-154... Does it HAVE to be a MK3 Supra R-154 or say I could only get my hands on a setup from a Soarer or something else with a 1JZ, is there any sort of modifications I could do to that unit to make it work in a MK3? I have seen information on how to make a MK3 R-154 fit into a soarer by extending it but not vice versa...

2. My second concern is based around the RHD wiring harness mating with the LHD harness.. I am planning on trying to do most of the work myself to save as many funds as possible... Im not too worried about the 18” extention aspect of the harness, the part I’m worried about is apparently there are some wires thay can’t simply be extended and you have to go from end to end with it, does this simply mean getting a wire of the same gauge, cutting it 18” longer, and replacing the factory wire with it?

3. If anyone has experience with swapping a 1JZ TT into a first year MK3 Supra, any unforseen blockades I may/will come across when doing my swap? I’m trying to get everything planned out and ready before I even get the motor itself so any information to keep me from running into any barriers during the swap would be greatly appreciated.

4. How much HP/TQ does a stock 1JZ-GTE Non-VVTi TT typically make in a MK3? Ive read its anywhere from 280-400

Those are my main concerns, I do have others but not as important as these currently... perhaps I will make another post if this one gets any sort of attention.
 

hvyman

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#2
to use a soarer r154 you need to swap the shifter housing to the mk3 one. iirc driftmotions new short shifter would take care of that and you would have less of a truck shifter. kills 2 birds with 1 stone.

for the wiring the biggest problem is is the cam/crank wires and the 2 knock sensor wires. you can get shielded wire from prowireusa.com and just run whole new wires, just use 20awg shielded wiring/ 2 twisted pair wiring for cam and crank and single shielded wire for the knock sensors. driftmotion and a bunch of other places sell all the connectors. which those 4 are good to replace anyways.
ive also spliced in the shielding in a pinch and just extended it as normal.

another option is to use solder sleeves with some other shilded wire and just connect the shields at the splice point. that point in the harness is not as cruical as compaired to being next to injectors or coil packs.

then you need to splice in the c1 connector at the battery area and the body harness connectors inside the cabin for the correct year car.

typically in stock form it will make about 250-280 whp on stock ecu at stock boost. stock crank numbers are 280hp from the factory.
 
Joined
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Location
Vermont, USA
#3
to use a soarer r154 you need to swap the shifter housing to the mk3 one. iirc driftmotions new short shifter would take care of that and you would have less of a truck shifter. kills 2 birds with 1 stone.

for the wiring the biggest problem is is the cam/crank wires and the 2 knock sensor wires. you can get shielded wire from prowireusa.com and just run whole new wires, just use 20awg shielded wiring/ 2 twisted pair wiring for cam and crank and single shielded wire for the knock sensors. driftmotion and a bunch of other places sell all the connectors. which those 4 are good to replace anyways.
ive also spliced in the shielding in a pinch and just extended it as normal.

another option is to use solder sleeves with some other shilded wire and just connect the shields at the splice point. that point in the harness is not as cruical as compaired to being next to injectors or coil packs.

then you need to splice in the c1 connector at the battery area and the body harness connectors inside the cabin for the correct year car.

typically in stock form it will make about 250-280 whp on stock ecu at stock boost. stock crank numbers are 280hp from the factory.
Okay, so one more question since i seem to be having a hard time locating one, would you happen to have a photo or a link to a good wiring diagram for both the 86’ 7M-GE and the 1JZ mentioned before? I’m still quite new to a lot of this so it’s going to be quite the hackjob but I want to try and save as much money as I can for future upgrades and still have the satisfaction of doing the swap myself. I know I could send the harness out to Tweak’d or another company but I simply don’t feel like doing that when I could just take my time and learn how to do it myself even if its at a wire-a-day rate. But yes I believe the only thing I really need is a wiring diagram for both engines/harnesses and perhaps a bit more clarification on the C1 port and where exactly i splice the 1jz into the 86 harness?
 

hvyman

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#7
At the top of this section. The 1jz/2jz section.