7MGTE VALVE SPRING ALTERNATIVES

foofers

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#6
"They have a 975-1, 975-12, 975-16"
The number following the 975-XX is the number of springs that come with that order.

is the code the same as the part number?
 

Adjuster

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#9
You just buy two boxes of 12.......

The 975 spring is the "Inner" spring on a Big Block Chevy setup.

They have seat and open pressure close to the spring rates of the 2JZ stock springs. (So slightly higher than the 7M springs.)

They are a tight fit into the head, but work with all the stock retainers/lifters etc. When you set them side by side, they are taller before they are installed. But they can be compressed more before they coil bind. (So you could run a higher lift cam, and not have any problems on these springs.)

The metal is the latest stuff, and Comp claims it's cleaner than ever, and thus has fewer failures. (Cracked springs.)

I use them, and have had no problems, with a few over-rev moments putting my engine up to 7150rpm at one missed shift. (As reccord by the Eman.)

Based on what most of us have, old 100+ thousand mile springs, or the cost of the new OEM springs being outragous, these for less than 70.00 total are THE BEST DEAL FOR SPRINGS FOR THE 7M. Hands down.

Sure you can spend more with "F-co" springs, locks and other stuff, but if your running the stock ECU/TCCS, why spend that money where it's not ever going to be needed? (If you plan on running your 7M to 7500 or 8000rpm for extended time, then you can spend the extra money, but at less than 7k rpm, these from Comp Cams are excellent upgrades from stock.)

Why do you think Comp sells the 975 in boxes of 12? LOL It's not for any Chevy aplication... They should just market them in boxes of 24... but selling them in boxes of 12 keeps it easy. (They come in a box made for batches of 16 springs, and that can be used on V8 two valve engines...)
 

Poodles

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#12
bingo...

I'm running them, and it pulls to redline a lot better... some of the old springs where pretty bad...
 

IJ.

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#13
If they're slightly larger in diameter they can rub the inside of the buckets and make more noise.

My major concern would be if you break one it's all over for that motor duals will save the motor in that scenario (ask how I know this)

 

Poodles

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#14
shouldn't matter since we're not interference motors... well it could suck the valve as well...

I think you had a rare occurance IMHO...
 

Poodles

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#16
hmmmmm that sucks :rofl:

Did you ever track down the cause? You're the only one I've seen break a valve spring...but that doesn't surprise me...
 

IJ.

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#17
Sustained 8000+ rpm ;)

I now have just about all of my engine parts Cryo treated and things looked good on this tear down.

Ferrea say their springs are good to 10K....... (maybe in 10 second bursts)
 
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#19
CarlosPTR210 said:
Can I use them with a Brian Crower Supra Stage 2 cam's?
Stage 2 yes, stage 3 is pushing the limit on the coil bind. You should only compress a spring to within 80 % of coil bind, the stage 3 BC cam IIRC will coil bind you to about 85-90%. I would use the BC springs for a BC stage3 cam. Regrind cams, and BC stage 2 would be Comp 975's ok
 

Adjuster

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#23
The only place where the Comp Cams springs were "Tight" is in the head spring seat.

The buckets are not loose, but they slip right over the springs just fine. At the bottem of the spring cutout, there is a seat, and it tapers down slightly. This is where the comp cams springs do not just drop in like the stocker, but the first coil does fit without any machine work. Just install the lifter, and it seats the spring flat.

I was concerned when I first tried these springs that it would cause a friction problem, but it does not. After you install a spring, if you want, remove the locks and the lifter and notice the spring just needs a gentle tug to be removed. The last coil is the only thing touching the bore of the spring/lifter bore. I figure the last coil does not move much, and the soft aluminum will not cause any problems on a harder steel spring over time. The spring might wear the sides of the bore where it touches, but who cares? It is like the last 1mm of bore that touches the spring. Nothing more. Very little movement in that last 1mm.

We looked at re-sizing the bores/seats and using 2JZ springs, buckets and valves to get better springs. Also the slightly longer 2JZ valve stem would allow a custom grind on 7M cams with more lift/duration just by reducing the base circle, but leaving all the stock lobe... Ended up not going that route, too much work, and not much material to work with really. the bore walls would be very thin in places, and some coolant passeges would be close too.

So, back on topic. The Comp Cam's 975-12 x 2 is what you want to order. Then enjoy NEW springs, the latest metalurgy, and higher seat and open pressures, but not so high they cause wear isssues/problems.

Why spend nearly 100.00 on new OEM springs, or more on "Aftermarket" springs from Japan when you can put these in for about 70.00?

I don't think they are louder either. :) My engine is so loud it's like driving a diesel around at times. (Piston slap, and the longer stroke, it just sounds different than every other 7MGTE out there.)
 

Poodles

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#24
yep, machine shop bitched about putting mine in... I told them they fit and stop arguing with me LOL
 

racerpage

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#25
Ordered them yesterday. $83.00 shipped. Also ordered my stage 2 Brian Crower cams. Thanks guys for all your input. Everyone wants me to swap to a JZ series motor, but like any motor, if you build it the right way,it will live.
 

TurboStreetCar

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#26
racerpage said:
Ordered them yesterday. $83.00 shipped. Also ordered my stage 2 Brian Crower cams. Thanks guys for all your input. Everyone wants me to swap to a JZ series motor, but like any motor, if you build it the right way,it will live.
good man....just wave good bye to that torqueless bandwagon!!!

id pick up a set but im eventually going to get a MS&S and run to 7500, dont know if those chevy parts can handle that type of thing.....
 

7M-fanatic

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#29
I run stock springs with a TODA inner-shim kit on my NA 7M,
and repeatedly run past 8500, with no problems.
The TODA inner-shim set-up is about 1/3rd less weight than the stock followers.

TODA springs are about 10% stiffer, but not having boost pressure acting against the intake valve, why waste the HP to push stronger springs down?

When the engine was dead stock, I would rev it to 8000.......
No float, no breakage problems.

I am just building another head with larger Ferrea valves, and most likely will stick with inner shims, if I can gather all the pieces together.

TODA-USA refuses to stock 7M parts, and have actually turned me down on custom ordering any.......
So I buy out of Japan.
 

figgie

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#31

92nsx

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#32
Yep JEGS is where I ordered mine from. Summitracing, had only 1 set in stock at the time I was ordering them. :(

This is the first time I have read this thread and reading what Rich said:
Stage 2 yes, stage 3 is pushing the limit on the coil bind. You should only compress a spring to within 80 % of coil bind, the stage 3 BC cam IIRC will coil bind you to about 85-90%. I would use the BC springs for a BC stage3 cam. Regrind cams, and BC stage 2 would be Comp 975's ok

I am thinking GOD DAM IT MOTHER FUCKER!! I am using BC stage 3 cams with my comp. springs. :( I wish Rich would have told me this before I order my cams from him. I even told him I was going with comp springs. So after a $7000 rebuilt I "could" brake a spring from coil bind and fubar up the whole engine now.:cry:. All this over what, $200 differance between springs.:nono:
 
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WhtMa71

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#34
Yep JEGS is where I ordered mine from. Summitracing, had only 1 set in stock at the time I was ordering them. :(

This is the first time I have read this thread and reading what Rich said:



I am thinking GOD DAM IT MOTHER FUCKER!! I am using BC stage 3 cams with my comp. springs. :( I wish Rich would have told me this before I order my cams from him. I even told him I was going with comp springs. So after a $7000 rebuilt I "could" brake a spring from coil bind and fubar up the whole engine now.:cry:. All this over what, $200 differance between springs.:nono:
Why dont you just get the BC springs?
I wonder if you could just get the inners from BC and i wonder if they would fit inside the comp springs..
 

92nsx

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#35
Why dont you just get the BC springs?
I wonder if you could just get the inners from BC and i wonder if they would fit inside the comp springs..

To tell you the truth I didn't know they made/had them. I should have since I bought there cams and oversized valves. I thought there were like only a few companies made them for our old engines. Toda??, Ferrea and comp cam springs, I thought were my options.

After a little search I see this
Here's the spring seat pressures for the various ones available:
Stock - 35 lbs
Comp Cams - 55 lbs
BC - 60 lbs
Ferrea - 67 lbs (dual spring)

Becomes a factor with more agressive cams and/or higher rpm (8K +) levels. The Comp springs are the best bang for the buck if you're running stock engine rpm IMO. And you can use the stock retainer, no problem.
Couple days ago ;)
Well I am NOT going to spin this 7m much past 7k ever. I Guess I will just hope for the best.
 
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#36
Yep JEGS is where I ordered mine from. Summitracing, had only 1 set in stock at the time I was ordering them. :(

This is the first time I have read this thread and reading what Rich said:



I am thinking GOD DAM IT MOTHER FUCKER!! I am using BC stage 3 cams with my comp. springs. :( I wish Rich would have told me this before I order my cams from him. I even told him I was going with comp springs. So after a $7000 rebuilt I "could" brake a spring from coil bind and fubar up the whole engine now.:cry:. All this over what, $200 differance between springs.:nono:
You will be fine on stage 3 BC cams with near stock redline. You still have room left even if it compresses to 90%. You won't coil bind.
 

rameans23

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#37
ok sorry to bring up this old thread from the dead, Im in the process of gettin the head work done for my build and i was wondering about the whole bbc valve spring thing this is the link from a couple pages back from jegs
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/975-12/10002/-1

so my question is would i need just two sets of these or a set of these and something else for now i am running stock ge cams and converting to a turbo (cams are a bit out of price range right now)

thanks guys for any help you can give me
 

jdub

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#38
You need two sets (24 springs)...they will work great with stock turbo cams.
PM Suprarich, pretty sure his price is a bit better than Jeg's.
 

shaunallenallen

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#40
So sorry to bring this dead thread back but im curious what you guys did about the valve spring seat. Did you just throw the springs in with no seat or what ?