7MGTE Oil pressure system.

tissimo

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#41
I will gladly like to hear everyone's custom setup with the data to back it up.
As an engineer I cannot rely on anecdotal evidence, there needs to be measured or modeled data provided as proof.
.
I'm not sure why you added your custom setup into this thread then? Its pure anecdotal evidence without any data, but you're determined to make the comments about full flow vs your setup. Using the pro-con list between your setup and a full flow the pros would be the lack of soft lines in the engine oil supply and less pumping loss but cons would be increased complexity, cost, and failure points.

To me, that's not very attractive but maybe you're really scared of having some soft lines in your engine oil supply or those few psi of pumping loss is really important to you. That's for you, individually, to weigh and make a decision for the right setup for your engine for you.
 

Piratetip

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#42
I'm not sure why you added your custom setup into this thread then? Its pure anecdotal evidence without any data, but you're determined to make the comments about full flow vs your setup. Using the pro-con list between your setup and a full flow the pros would be the lack of soft lines in the engine oil supply and less pumping loss but cons would be increased complexity, cost, and failure points.

To me, that's not very attractive but maybe you're really scared of having some soft lines in your engine oil supply or those few psi of pumping loss is really important to you. That's for you, individually, to weigh and make a decision for the right setup for your engine for you.
Simple.
Its another option, different from the norm.
You appear to really hate the idea, which is fine.

As mentioned before I work based of measurements OR modeling.
In this case the pressure drop across the full flow system is simply based off Darcy–Weisbach equation.
With the end goal to maximize oil pressure to the engine, since the 7M is already notorious for oiling issues.
Please join the conversation and bring some data to the table.
I have yet to see anyone log data related to the Δ drop across any oil system.
If you know of this data please link to it!

I have already mentioned to Pi that I will be setting up 2 pressure transducers to measure the pressure loss through my system.
Once I get the ms3pro set up and running I can do this, or use some of the data logging equipment I use at work to take it early. Depends on how much free time is available.
The measurement and calculation are very simple.
- Take oil pressure at the outlet from the oil pump @ the oil filter housing or adapter on the passenger side of the engine.
- Take oil pressure at the stock oil pressure sender location.
- Calculate the delta between the 2 and there you have the pressure drop across whatever system is used.

If someone else running a full flow system can take the same measurements, then real data can be compared and not have to rely on modeling and calculations.

There isn't anything scary about a full flow system...
I ran that system in my own vehicle for years, but now have reached a point where my goals have changed.
Its just risk assessment, everyone has their own levels of what they are willing to accept, nothing wrong with that.

A few psi of pumping losses IS important to me, I feel like I am talking to a wall here. Accept that and move on.
If other builds nitpick over every ounce of weight savings or rebuild to exact OEM standards bar none, then ffs I can have my own goals as well.

I am not preventing anyone from bringing their ideas to the table.
I am encouraging MORE ideas to come to the table, so lets hear them, debate them.
Have an intelligent conversation and back it up with data.
 

Enraged

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#43

Piratetip

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#44
Yes I have seen that, do you know if any pressure data logs were taken before and after?
Or any data logs of any kind were taken?
Also aware of the needle bearing retention plate.
Thanks
 

suprarx7nut

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#45
Simple.
Its another option, different from the norm.
You appear to really hate the idea, which is fine.

As mentioned before I work based of measurements OR modeling.
In this case the pressure drop across the full flow system is simply based off Darcy–Weisbach equation.
With the end goal to maximize oil pressure to the engine, since the 7M is already notorious for oiling issues.
Please join the conversation and bring some data to the table.
I have yet to see anyone log data related to the Δ drop across any oil system.
If you know of this data please link to it!

I have already mentioned to Pi that I will be setting up 2 pressure transducers to measure the pressure loss through my system.
Once I get the ms3pro set up and running I can do this, or use some of the data logging equipment I use at work to take it early. Depends on how much free time is available.
The measurement and calculation are very simple.
- Take oil pressure at the outlet from the oil pump @ the oil filter housing or adapter on the passenger side of the engine.
- Take oil pressure at the stock oil pressure sender location.
- Calculate the delta between the 2 and there you have the pressure drop across whatever system is used.

If someone else running a full flow system can take the same measurements, then real data can be compared and not have to rely on modeling and calculations.

There isn't anything scary about a full flow system...
I ran that system in my own vehicle for years, but now have reached a point where my goals have changed.
Its just risk assessment, everyone has their own levels of what they are willing to accept, nothing wrong with that.

A few psi of pumping losses IS important to me, I feel like I am talking to a wall here. Accept that and move on.
If other builds nitpick over every ounce of weight savings or rebuild to exact OEM standards bar none, then ffs I can have my own goals as well.

I am not preventing anyone from bringing their ideas to the table.
I am encouraging MORE ideas to come to the table, so lets hear them, debate them.
Have an intelligent conversation and back it up with data.
+1 for data on this stuff! There seems to be little readily available hard data and a whole lot of opinions and anecdotal evidence. I'm anxious to go standalone simply for the sake of logging the crap out of various parameters and how they change.
 

Piratetip

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#46
+1 for data on this stuff! There seems to be little readily available hard data and a whole lot of opinions and anecdotal evidence. I'm anxious to go standalone simply for the sake of logging the crap out of various parameters and how they change.
Agreed.
I do this shit every day at work and have access to some wicked sampling rate logging tools.
100kHz max response time or every 0.00001 sec.

One of my goals is to be able to capture the oil pressure pulses from the actual oil pump itself.
The individual pules from the gear rotor pump should be visible.
When graphed you should be able to see a waveform in the pressure data itself.
Need to determine if there is a pressure transducer that has microsecond response rate....

Another fun thing I will be posting up is a cold start with the hood open.
Create a video with a thermal imaging camera, to see how the engine warms up and which components warm at different rates. ect...
Will also help determine which heat shielding / reflective materials are best suited for different areas under-hood.

I am up for logging anything and everything, V, I, primary ignition, pressure, temperatures, speeds ect...
If anyone has good ideas they have, post them up.
 

suprarx7nut

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#47
Agreed.
I do this shit every day at work and have access to some wicked sampling rate logging tools.
100kHz max response time or every 0.00001 sec.

One of my goals is to be able to capture the oil pressure pulses from the actual oil pump itself.
The individual pules from the gear rotor pump should be visible.
When graphed you should be able to see a waveform in the pressure data itself.
Need to determine if there is a pressure transducer that has microsecond response rate....

Another fun thing I will be posting up is a cold start with the hood open.
Create a video with a thermal imaging camera, to see how the engine warms up and which components warm at different rates. ect...
Will also help determine which heat shielding / reflective materials are best suited for different areas under-hood.

I am up for logging anything and everything, V, I, primary ignition, pressure, temperatures, speeds ect...
If anyone has good ideas they have, post them up.
Haha, sounds familiar. I work with datalogs of industrial metering equipment.

With millions of data points we still struggle to make the kind of sweeping comments you find on the forums with enough confidence to actually publish any of it. Very different worlds.

The thermal imaging is something I've wanted to start. The $250 FLIR add-ons to smartphones seem impressive enough to yield good information.

I've been interested in intake heat shielding and intercooler function for a long time. I'd love to have a few intake temp sensors in the plenum/manifold and throughout the intake track with various configurations of intake/intercooler. Pressure measurements would be equally interesting.

We should stay in touch. I'd gladly host results on YotaMD if you want to share findings. I haven't taken time to post anything there in a long time, but some good datalogging and analysis would be a catalyst for me to update it.
 

Piratetip

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#48
Haha, sounds familiar. I work with datalogs of industrial metering equipment.

With millions of data points we still struggle to make the kind of sweeping comments you find on the forums with enough confidence to actually publish any of it. Very different worlds.

The thermal imaging is something I've wanted to start. The $250 FLIR add-ons to smartphones seem impressive enough to yield good information.

I've been interested in intake heat shielding and intercooler function for a long time. I'd love to have a few intake temp sensors in the plenum/manifold and throughout the intake track with various configurations of intake/intercooler. Pressure measurements would be equally interesting.

We should stay in touch. I'd gladly host results on YotaMD if you want to share findings. I haven't taken time to post anything there in a long time, but some good datalogging and analysis would be a catalyst for me to update it.
Yeah with all the engineers we have kicking around here we should really pool our resources and dig into these systems.
Makes some real conclusions.

The pressure / temperature logging I have also wanted to dig into on the intercooler / intake piping for a long time as well.
From my conversations with our material engineers here I have some good ideas on what the best internal and external designed intercoolers are in regards to efficiency and pressure drop.
We also have an ex-Modine engineer here that worked exclusively with supping OE's with heat exchangers, egr, intercooler, radiators ect... Some good conversations with him as well.

I am all for logging and taking measurements! Good deal :D
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
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#49
Yes I have seen that, do you know if any pressure data logs were taken before and after?
Or any data logs of any kind were taken?
Also aware of the needle bearing retention plate.
Thanks
Nashman bought the bits, he's putting his car back together now (slowly), hopefully running by summer. If I remember I'll see what his pressures are at idle and various rpm. Just reading off of a gauge though, no fancy datalogging stuff at this point. I had planned to do the same mods if/when I build a motor so I'm curious to see what the differences are.
 

tissimo

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#50
Simple.
Its another option, different from the norm.
You appear to really hate the idea, which is fine.
As I said, I couldn't care less about your setup. But you continued to bring the focus of the thread to your setup and figuring you're looking for input on it or something I added it. I guess it is my fault that I didn't make that point clear in my original post, and my follow up wasn't definitively decisive on the intentions.
As mentioned before I work based of measurements OR modeling.
In this case the pressure drop across the full flow system is simply based off Darcy–Weisbach equation.
With the end goal to maximize oil pressure to the engine, since the 7M is already notorious for oiling issues.
Please join the conversation and bring some data to the table.
I have yet to see anyone log data related to the Δ drop across any oil system.
If you know of this data please link to it!

I have already mentioned to Pi that I will be setting up 2 pressure transducers to measure the pressure loss through my system.
Once I get the ms3pro set up and running I can do this, or use some of the data logging equipment I use at work to take it early. Depends on how much free time is available.
The measurement and calculation are very simple.
- Take oil pressure at the outlet from the oil pump @ the oil filter housing or adapter on the passenger side of the engine.
- Take oil pressure at the stock oil pressure sender location.
- Calculate the delta between the 2 and there you have the pressure drop across whatever system is used.

If someone else running a full flow system can take the same measurements, then real data can be compared and not have to rely on modeling and calculations.
That would be interesting data to have, but has little impact outside of your specific setup. Comparing to another persons readings (even at the same spots) leads to too many variables to make the data valuable.

The values would have to be conducted with similar conditions over the desired points only. So, through the Lines, remote filter and cooler setup themselves and through the stock cooler itself. Only then can we have a direct comparison.

There isn't anything scary about a full flow system...
I ran that system in my own vehicle for years, but now have reached a point where my goals have changed.
Its just risk assessment, everyone has their own levels of what they are willing to accept, nothing wrong with that.
Exactly as I stated.
A few psi of pumping losses IS important to me, I feel like I am talking to a wall here. Accept that and move on.
If other builds nitpick over every ounce of weight savings or rebuild to exact OEM standards bar none, then ffs I can have my own goals as well.
Which is why I arrived at the conclusion that I did with my previous post.

I am not preventing anyone from bringing their ideas to the table.
I am encouraging MORE ideas to come to the table, so lets hear them, debate them.
Have an intelligent conversation and back it up with data.
Data isn't necessary to be included in the conversation, otherwise, again, I don't see why you're discussing your system here without any data?


To get the thread back on topic, I'll restate my original post.

Based on your Pro/Con list (which you stated is Stock vs Full Flow) my counter to the Pressure Drop through the lines Con is that its negligible at most.

Pi it would be tough to accurately answer that question.

I do not know the actual gallons per minute the 7M engine oil pumps through the system.

Someone could set up a test stand and spin the pump under pressure to measure the flow output.
But the chances of someone actually doing that are slim to none.

To get a rough estimate:
Here is a nice chart showing pressure drop values per 10 feet of line.
Most people use dash -8 or 1/2" ID lines, so use that column.
Pressure drop values listed here are calculated at 100°F temperature for petroleum based oil.
This chart only accounts for the line itself, not any fittings in the system.
http://pressureconnections.com/customer/prcoco/customerpages/literature/Hose_Pressure_Drop_Chart.pdf

My best guess for flow rates on this engine would be:
5 GPM @ 3,000 RPM
10 GPM @ 6,000 RPM
We can use the quoted post to derive data to make you happy.

-At idle, 750rpm, lets guess 2gpm, with -8 lines. So over 10 feet there is no data listed for pressure loss.... but lest say .1 psi with 10 psi oil pressure is 1%, negligible.
-At 3000 rpms, 5gpm, with -8 again. We're looking at 4.5 psi pressure loss.
-At 6000 rpms, 10gpm, with -8 again, were looking at 15 psi pressure loss.

So at idle, we've established the pressure loss is negligible.
At 3000 rpms, a pressure loss of 4.5 psi, with say a stock system at 40 psi, the delta is >10% and is not negligible. So, I guess I'll Disclaimer this part. This theory is derived from anecdotal evidence and various posts on the forum on the subject. the stock oil cooler seems to start bleeding off pressure around that 40 psi mark, so there is an unmeasured pressure loss from the Stock oil cooler. Without the stock oil cooler (And its bleeding) pressure would be higher. I would say 10 psi higher, negating any pressure loss through the lines, and having an overall increase of pressure vs the stock system.
Same goes for 6000 rpms with even more pressure gained vs the stock system.

Now for my second statement, I dont think this was disputed, so I'll just restate it.
The upgraded oil feed tube and removable of the banjo bolt would further increase the net positive pressure gain at all data points and probably eliminate the pressure loss at idle all together.

I hope this clears up any misunderstanding between Piratetip and I on my intentions on my contributions to the thread. I would love to see his insight (and others) on my theories I have laid out here rebutting the CON listed for pressure loss. While I do agree it is a legitimate con with measurable loss, the overall benefit between the two systems negate any of the pressure loss thus eliminating the con in practice. Again we do not have hard data, but we can intelligently discuss the theory. But again until we have hard data it'll always be a theory.
 
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3p141592654

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#51
Given the gear pump is a fixed displacement pump, does pressure matter at all?

Assuming you add extra resistance to flow from say the stock oil feed tube & banjo bolt, or an external full flow oil cooler and tubing, why does it matter? The system will still be flowing the exact same gpm flow rate and therefore the pressure drop inside the engine post filter and cooler will be identical. The only downside of the extra resistance is a bigger load on the pump, and more wasted hp driving the pump, the engine internally won't know anything different.

Sure, if taken to the limit with ridiculous extra flow resistance this obviously fails,as the pump pressure relief opens at something like 80 psi and at that point flow rate will drop, but that's not happening with any of these setups.

Compared to the stock system, it would seem any full flow arrangement would be superior as it will always direct the full pump output through the engine instead of diverting some fraction of pump flow through the parallel connected cooler like the stock setup.

Even so, below 40 psi pump pressure, both stock and full flow behave identically. That is, all the pump output goes through the engine.
 

tissimo

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#52
You're right, it shouldn't matter. It would all depend on the releif valve. At what point does it start to open to bleed volume off? It may be rather low pressure or the springs are suffering from major fatigue because I've seen several reports of increased oil pressure at idle with shimmed pumps, which shouldn't be affected.
 

suprarx7nut

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#53
Given the gear pump is a fixed displacement pump, does pressure matter at all?

Assuming you add extra resistance to flow from say the stock oil feed tube & banjo bolt, or an external full flow oil cooler and tubing, why does it matter? The system will still be flowing the exact same gpm flow rate and therefore the pressure drop inside the engine post filter and cooler will be identical. The only downside of the extra resistance is a bigger load on the pump, and more wasted hp driving the pump, the engine internally won't know anything different.

Sure, if taken to the limit with ridiculous extra flow resistance this obviously fails,as the pump pressure relief opens at something like 80 psi and at that point flow rate will drop, but that's not happening with any of these setups.

Compared to the stock system, it would seem any full flow arrangement would be superior as it will always direct the full pump output through the engine instead of diverting some fraction of pump flow through the parallel connected cooler like the stock setup.

Even so, below 40 psi pump pressure, both stock and full flow behave identically. That is, all the pump output goes through the engine.
I wouldn't make the assumption any 7M oil pump is a truly fixed volume pump. If the gears seal perfectly it's theoretically a fixed volume pump, but I doubt that's actually the case. Is it negligible? I don't know. As seems to be the theme of this thread... without data it's all a guessing game.

For a street driven car, I think the big detriment of the full flow system is that you now have exposed lines running around the lower part of the front of the engine bay that carry 100% of your oil. Hit a rock or something that ruptures a line or springs a leak in a fitting? You could have a dead engine in seconds. That's less of a concern with the factory system or one like piratetip's where you would slowly lose oil and have a much higher chance of catching it before you're running on no oil.

Do any OEM systems run full flow oil systems with exposed line any longer than a few inches? I've never seen it, but maybe I just haven't looked at the right engines!
 

Enraged

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#54
the lines aren't any more exposed than stock unless you've done a really shitty job installing them. If I hit a rock hard enough to hit the lines I've got, I have much bigger problems than a leaking line or fitting.
 

suprarx7nut

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#55
the lines aren't any more exposed than stock unless you've done a really shitty job installing them. If I hit a rock hard enough to hit the lines I've got, I have much bigger problems than a leaking line or fitting.
Yes, but there is a massive, monumental difference between the stock system and full flow in that scenario. The stock system can take a hit to the line, spill oil and actually be perfectly functional if the pressure relief valve closes well. An aftermarket full flow in the same situation would very easily yield catastrophic engine failure because you immediately lose oil flow to the internals.

This is the key pro of the stock system I think a lot of people overlook.
 

3p141592654

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#56
You would think that someone had at least characterized a small block chevy oil pump, but I came up empty handed. This is data of a gear pump very similar to the 7M design, so at least it is representative. You can see that the "slip" pf the pump is pretty small over a huge pressure range. These pumps really are pretty close to ideal as far as flow versus pressure goes. Remember ideal would be a vertical line.

Its true that hose failure would be bad news on a full flow. But I am always reminded of jetjock who knocked his fumuto valve out of his oil pan and drove his supra a couple of miles on the freeway with no oil before realizing something was very wrong. Engine never failed, and he put many thousand of miles on that car after the incident with no apparent issues.
energies-10-01113-g013.jpg

The 2GR-FE has an oil-water cooler and the oil is carried to the cooler using two rubber hoses molded into a contraption. Those hoses are prone to pinholes on high mileage cars and the results can be catastrophic. There is also an all metal version of the contraption. I put that on my car as I was worried about the rubber hoses. So I guess if you are asking for production cars with hoses this is an example.

Image2.jpg

there is also another rubber oil hose on that engine that was the subject of a recall due to early failures, again with bad results.

Image1.jpg
 
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Enraged

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#57
Yes, but there is a massive, monumental difference between the stock system and full flow in that scenario. The stock system can take a hit to the line, spill oil and actually be perfectly functional if the pressure relief valve closes well. An aftermarket full flow in the same situation would very easily yield catastrophic engine failure because you immediately lose oil flow to the internals.

This is the key pro of the stock system I think a lot of people overlook.
If you hit a rock hard enough to damage something, are you going to keep driving? Or are you going to immediately pull over and check the car? I don't think you're an idiot, so I'll assume that you, like I, would pull over right away. So that negates that one benefit of the stock system. Now if the owner is an idiot, you might be right.
 

suprarx7nut

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#58
If you hit a rock hard enough to damage something, are you going to keep driving? Or are you going to immediately pull over and check the car? I don't think you're an idiot, so I'll assume that you, like I, would pull over right away. So that negates that one benefit of the stock system. Now if the owner is an idiot, you might be right.
Valid point, I suppose. Depends what causes the damage. If I hit a big rock, sure. I think the complete failure point of many of the hoses and fittings is well below a chassis jarring collision though. Full throttle with some music playing and I could see not hearing something happen that could spring a serious leak or rip a fitting off. Pending the placement of the cooler you could also take a small rock to the heat exchanger and leak.

Look at Pi's story above about Jetjock - not exactly a clueless idiot. You'd like to think you'll always catch a damage inducing incident the moment it happens, but that's not always the case.
 

Enraged

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#59
Yes, that's also a good point. I would hope that if you have a full flow system, you also have an oil pressure gauge with alarm though.
 

Nick M

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#60
I have always liked the more modern coolant-based oil coolers such as on the JZ engines or pretty much anything else these days. Seems it has the advantage of warming the oil when cold without requiring a thermostat which will eventually fail.
Even Ford does it.
 

jetjock

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#61
Clueless idiot here ;)

Ugh, that oil incident brings back memories. You'd think someone in my biz would keep an eye on gauges but I sure failed that night. Ran it on the highway about 8 miles sans lube. Only when it shut off did I realized something was wrong and the engine could not be turned over again until cold. Yes, I ran it another 40K miles with nothing more than a slight ticking in the valve train. If anyone is wondering the lost oil was Mobil One.

Great to see these cars are being kept alive. Although mine is long gone I enjoyed having it as a DD for nearly 25 years. Still miss it at times. Anyway, hope everyone here who remembers me is doing well. I'm retired these days and almost never stop by.
 

Hybrid

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#63
What about removing the whole 7M setup, and using the 1JZ/2JZ stock setup?. Direct fit btw, just need to add a coolant loop.
 

NashMan

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#65
Yes, but there is a massive, monumental difference between the stock system and full flow in that scenario. The stock system can take a hit to the line, spill oil and actually be perfectly functional if the pressure relief valve closes well. An aftermarket full flow in the same situation would very easily yield catastrophic engine failure because you immediately lose oil flow to the internals.

This is the key pro of the stock system I think a lot of people overlook.
umm....ummmm....I see. nope I lie, I don't know where you are going with this, they made it simple easy, cheap and it works
 

figgie

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#67
Clueless idiot here ;)

Ugh, that oil incident brings back memories. You'd think someone in my biz would keep an eye on gauges but I sure failed that night. Ran it on the highway about 8 miles sans lube. Only when it shut off did I realized something was wrong and the engine could not be turned over again until cold. Yes, I ran it another 40K miles with nothing more than a slight ticking in the valve train. If anyone is wondering the lost oil was Mobil One.

Great to see these cars are being kept alive. Although mine is long gone I enjoyed having it as a DD for nearly 25 years. Still miss it at times. Anyway, hope everyone here who remembers me is doing well. I'm retired these days and almost never stop by.
Another old timer poking around? :)
 

the t3d

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#68
So, running a full-flow oil cooler system WITHOUT a thermostat, WITH a shimmed oil pump, and bigger oil cooler and a relocated filter is screaming a bad idea for 450-500rwhp? This makes me sad as this is my current setup, but since she isn't running yet, I can still add some things. All pressure readings for me would be based off an upgraded oil pressure sensor and gauge readings. If the pressure readings check out at idle and the higher rpms, does it mostly become an issue of the longevity of proper oiling or a matter of cooling efficiency? Like if I was to add the filter mount with the thermostat built in, would that fix the potential future issues? I had issues with the cam journals being noticeably worn by either metal shavings or metal on metal contact on the last motor, but that motor was heavily over revved and strained on the very first test drive due to the throttle linkage getting stuck. I've read through a lot of these oil filter relocation threads but nothing to really answer MY specific setup, so any advice would be helpful!
 

Nick M

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#69
I'll try to summarize quickly.

Stock oil filter housing/cooler
Pro - good packaging / compact

Con - pressure based cooler bleeds off a small portion of the oil feed to the engine.
- small(er) orifices at critical junctions / connections / banjo bolts
I beg to differ on your 2 month old thread. The stock system does not have good packaging. Changing the filter is one of the worst in the automotive world. The main point against the stock system is that oil viscosity decreases as temps increase, reducing the amount of oil going to the cooler when more is needed at hot temps. To each his own I guess. Of course only a donkey is using conventional oil and not a synthetic knowing how much better the synthetic is at hot and cold temps.
 

simond355

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#70
Update:

Alright i had bought some stuff from DM + Summit, and some local hardware + braided an hose, got it all set up, oil pressure is better.
Terrible news is the Earls Oil Thermostat was leaking at the clip holding the valve down. Needed it running for next day, ********** had to make it back to stock oil system. Warranty got me a new one from Summit, hope it holds better, does anyone have experience with those Earls thermostats?
 

3p141592654

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#73
Never use a clamp on pushlock. That is a very bad idea and not recommended by the manufacturers. The sharp barbs of the connector will cut into the hose when the clamp is applied and weaken, not strengthen, the connection.
 

Piratetip

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#74

tissimo

Stock is boring :(
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#75
Never use a clamp on pushlock. That is a very bad idea and not recommended by the manufacturers. The sharp barbs of the connector will cut into the hose when the clamp is applied and weaken, not strengthen, the connection.
I was mistaken, I thought all the manufactures recommended it, but its only a few.
 

ncv6coupe

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#76
So, running a full-flow oil cooler system WITHOUT a thermostat, WITH a shimmed oil pump, and bigger oil cooler and a relocated filter is screaming a bad idea for 450-500rwhp? This makes me sad as this is my current setup, but since she isn't running yet, I can still add some things. All pressure readings for me would be based off an upgraded oil pressure sensor and gauge readings. If the pressure readings check out at idle and the higher rpms, does it mostly become an issue of the longevity of proper oiling or a matter of cooling efficiency? Like if I was to add the filter mount with the thermostat built in, would that fix the potential future issues? I had issues with the cam journals being noticeably worn by either metal shavings or metal on metal contact on the last motor, but that motor was heavily over revved and strained on the very first test drive due to the throttle linkage getting stuck. I've read through a lot of these oil filter relocation threads but nothing to really answer MY specific setup, so any advice would be helpful!
You are in Florida so you can “get away” with no thermostat. You absolutely need to let car warm up fully before driving. EVERY TIME

If you see your oil is being over cooled,(research other members oil temp data) because you have both an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge, then partially block the oil cooler frontal surface.

Cardboard and zip ties are your friend.

Drifters do it so can you.
 

the t3d

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#77
You are in Florida so you can “get away” with no thermostat. You absolutely need to let car warm up fully before driving. EVERY TIME

If you see your oil is being over cooled,(research other members oil temp data) because you have both an oil temperature and oil pressure gauge, then partially block the oil cooler frontal surface.

Cardboard and zip ties are your friend.

Drifters do it so can you.
I appreciate the input. I actually don't have an oil temp gauge, just the upgraded oil pressure gauge, but I can see how the oil temp readings would tell you how the cooling of the oil is efficient enough or not. I definitely always let the car warm up before taking her out. Since I just got a full-time job, I still may consider the thermostat filter housing rather than trying to tap into another location for an oil temp sensor. This helps a lot actually, so thank you.