7mgte FFIM no ISC sensor port, can i delete ISC?

letitride4life

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#1
i want to know if i can delete the idle speed control sensor( idle air control valve if that's whats its called) i can not find any information about this and i really would like to get some information about it and see if anyone here is using a forward facing intake manifold and what problems came up with running without the sensor.

i have not installed my engine yet but i have some photos of the intake.

please help
 

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89supracrazy

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#2
What I have read is that the alternator is in the way. You have to relocate your alternator. Your iscv will adjust your idle depending upon the other sensor's that input into the ecu. The older throttle body has a adjustment screw on the side of it to adjust the idle but then it will be fixed. The ecu will no longer be able to adjust idle.
 

letitride4life

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#3
ya i am fully aware of relocating the alternator i am just waiting on purchasing the bracket. my main concern was the idle because i am using a Q45 throttle body and i didn't know if i was doomed with the factory ECU
 

winsauce

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#6
ive seen first hand that stock ecu with maft pro will idle the engine w/o aicv...

that being said, im running an aem ecu and this lil puppy is getting welded to the bottom of my ffim...
you can buy it from here third item from the botom*

even has a step milled in it for the one way check valve to stop boost leaking out trough the idle control valve like factory!
 

toyolla86

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#8
i unhooked my idle control valve on my corolla and it idled at like 3k. super annoying.

but if you are running a totally different throttle body and it has some sort of idle control on it maybe you'll be fine.
 

terrenceLP

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#10
I'm getting to this and can say - IMO

1. Deleting the Idle Speed Control Valve (ISC) when running Speed Density with a *Standalone EMS works. ***Factory ECU and Piggbacks need not apply :umno:
2. Ignition, Timing and Fueling can be set to compensate for a cold condition start and other down low factors.

^- "No IAC valve at all? Yes, you can run without an IAC valve. Just use your idle speed set screw to adjust it open enough that the engine doesn't stall on cold starts. Sure, your idle speed with the engine warmed up will be higher than it could be, and you'll have no way to adjust for stuff like the A/C or electrical loads, but it'll work." - Read More

^- Pertaining to a good running & Tuned 7M, this works great and it has a good enough stroke to get R done. Under extreme weather there will be varied results and if your looking to keep factory systems just stay away from attempting this.
Most of the equipment that helps cold starts, idle control and accessories, are not needed if your developing a hobby/race car that will do mostly out and back runs.

Here is an example holding a 500rpm idle in 73 degree weather over 2000 feet elevation. - View Here
 

Nick M

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#14
My comment has nothing to do with bumping an old thread for info. Often, that is fine and brings back subjects that people can read and learn. Scratch the last part. It is hard for me to comprehend somebody asking how to remove the device used to control idle speed.
 

gsxr141

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#15
while we're bumping old threads,,,,,, will a bad isc cause an intermittent idle problem? 50% of the time my car idles perfect, and the other 50% it hunts from 1000-2000rpm. sometimes after driving a bit it goes away, and sometimes i'll park it and restart it and it's fine. OR it will be running mint and when i come back out to drive it, it's hunting again.
 

Nick M

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#16
50% of the time the learned position for ISC is wrong.
 

QWIKSTRIKE

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#17
Well I vote for having an ISC if you want the engine to start and idle like stock that is. During the winter my oil pressure exceeds 140 during start up and if I open the throttle I seem to burst oil filters or pop out the filter gaskets. A fully functioning ISC alleviates this issue, and also allows me to drop my idle to 890RPMS with BC 272 cams. I have a remote mounted GM Grand Am Pintle style 4 wire ISC managed by my standalone. Without an idle control valve my idle seems to always be high regardless of how it was set when it is first started. After installing my ISC and days of starting and tuning while hot and cold I have it working just like stock not attached to the FFI on the sides.
 

ag0g0

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#21
Oddly enough I found my old post researching about the supra again. The FFIM I had at the time did not have a ISCV Port/flange(I should have been more specific). Days turn into weeks, lost my old house and internet along with it. But with that being said, very recently i got the same car running and driving as of July 2019. Dug up an old thread but also figured someone would like to hear even after years passing I kept it and got it running
 

debrucer

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#22
Oddly enough I found my old post researching about the supra again. The FFIM I had at the time did not have a ISCV Port/flange(I should have been more specific). Days turn into weeks, lost my old house and internet along with it. But with that being said, very recently i got the same car running and driving as of July 2019. Dug up an old thread but also figured someone would like to hear even after years passing I kept it and got it running
Welcome back! You're using a new account, so were you the original poster on this thread? Introduce yourself and give us pictures of your ride!
 

ag0g0

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#23
Welcome back! You're using a new account, so were you the original poster on this thread? Introduce yourself and give us pictures of your ride!
Yes Sir, I couldn't remember my login information so i decided to start over. i'll make sure to drop some pictures in here when i go see the car next. Ive been correcting a lot things my 20 year old self half assed and thankfully my friend owns a nice performance shop and lets me work on the car there until he is finish installing the fuel cell in the hatch.
 
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