3D Printed Supra Parts

suprarx7nut

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These are the clips needed. If people understood how to remove the bezel there would be no issue. You need to push it in and slide to the rear to release the bezel. If you just yank on it or use a trim tool the metal tab will bend or break.

View attachment 81725
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=6703&P=1

They seem to still be listed by many sites, but I have not tried ot order them in years. If they used them on other models they may still be available.

There was actually a TSB on them.

Toyota service bulletin: REMOVAL OF DOOR LOCK BEZEL

removal of front clip:
(1) push the front of the bezel back to the rear with your hand
(2) lightly pull the bezel away from the door

removal of rear clip:
(1) move the bezel toward the front of the vehicle and pull out
I ordered those clips from Toyota maybe...3-4 years ago.
They were all still available then.

Don't know if they are anymore.
Well I'll be damned. I never knew there was a specific process for removing those beyond the TSRM instruction to "push a tab in and release" which I could never figure out. I could never depress a tab and just had to wiggle it around until it broke free. I'll feel dumb if that tip to push it forward and backward solves it.
 
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Piratetip

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Who gets to design the 3d model for that. LOL!
 

suprarx7nut

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Who gets to design the 3d model for that. LOL!
Yeah no joke. Not to mention a couple test fitments. Aw, crap the curvature of pieces 65-183 are wrong, Better adjust and re-print.

I have been trying to justify a good 3d scanner, but really good hand held ones that could do a piece that big are still very expensive.
 

suprarx7nut

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Hatch Block fresh off the printer with fiberglass reinforcement. It's way stiffer than my previous ones (which were still stiff enough). The default is an extra 8mm of length, but I can modify it to fit whatever's needed to take up the slack in the hatch cable.

Loving this new printer.
 

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suprarx7nut

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plaaya69

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Nice piece suprax7nut, I like the design and detail of it. I hope you and others keep those 3d printed Supra parts coming.
 

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Hatch Block fresh off the printer with fiberglass reinforcement. It's way stiffer than my previous ones (which were still stiff enough). The default is an extra 8mm of length, but I can modify it to fit whatever's needed to take up the slack in the hatch cable.
Loving this new printer.
Does the Hatch Block work on Pre 89?
 

suprarx7nut

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Does the Hatch Block work on Pre 89?
I haven't figured out the exact cut-off yet. My 91 has the block. My 90 had the block. I thought my 88 had the block. I bought a used cable from an 89 and it had the block. Another user on SM ( @suprapilot maybe?) has an 89 without the block.

I would advise anyone to double check by removing the center rear hatch trim and looking. It's visible with that one panel removed. That also gives you a chance to check how much slop is in the cable and ensure you buy the best extension. I have 8mm and 12mm listed on the site, but can do any length.

1560567971072.png
 

loc182

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I ordered one, and was supra excited by the order number!
Cannot wait to get it and thank you so much suprax7nut for making this!

Leet.jpg
 

suprarx7nut

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I ordered one, and was supra excited by the order number!
Cannot wait to get it and thank you so much suprax7nut for making this!

View attachment 82019
Haha, that's awesome. Yours shipped out today, so you should see it early next week! Let me know how it feels to finally have a solid hatch release!
 

Enraged

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A buddy of mine has a Form2, he printed this prototype for me:

2019-06-09 14.08.56.jpg

With the Form2, you have to be careful in choosing the orientation of the part, as the "top" surface finish isn't always perfect. But this part had all of the important geometry. Now that I know it fits as I've drawn it, I can look into getting is milled out of aluminum.
 

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Ohh! Custom cam sensor setup.
Very nice.
 

Enraged

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I'm not sure. It's a critical part, and while I'm ok using one on my own car, I don't want the liability of a failure on someone elses car. It may be a case of selling the housing portion, and the user has to have their shaft machined to match.

Of course, now that I've posted it, it's just a matter of time before someone uses the idea and makes their own for production, which has happened with several of my other parts.
 

suprarx7nut

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I'm not sure. It's a critical part, and while I'm ok using one on my own car, I don't want the liability of a failure on someone elses car. It may be a case of selling the housing portion, and the user has to have their shaft machined to match.

Of course, now that I've posted it, it's just a matter of time before someone uses the idea and makes their own for production, which has happened with several of my other parts.
Having started a couple businesses and created many of my own products, it's not the idea/design that's tough, but rather the production, ongoing customer support and liability that are the real hurdles.

I'd have a really hard time offering that as a product without real extensive testing. I'd have the same reservations you're describing. I'd be paranoid of a part failing, leaving someone stranded on a highway somewhere. Worse yet, somebody gets a car hit or themselves hit while stranded... eek. Liability nightmare.

I like your idea of selling the blank casing.
 

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Even the blank housing is more than what can be found new, its interesting never the less.


So will machining my shaft hurt?? Asking for a friend.... LOL
 

loc182

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So I got the YotaMD Hatch Release Block today!

Sadly it looks like my problem is not a stretched cable, but something is wrong with the short cable that connects the cabin lever to the release mechanism. Even if I disconnect this cable from the one running to the cabin lever and pull as hard as I can it cannot move the release mechanism enough to pop the hatch. The key can move it just fine, so there must be something amiss with system that lets the key turn the release lever on and off. Guess I need to take off exterior center trim piece to see what is going on.

Definitely happy with the part though and will install it once I have sorted my other issue Thanks again for making it!
 

suprarx7nut

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So I got the YotaMD Hatch Release Block today!

Sadly it looks like my problem is not a stretched cable, but something is wrong with the short cable that connects the cabin lever to the release mechanism. Even if I disconnect this cable from the one running to the cabin lever and pull as hard as I can it cannot move the release mechanism enough to pop the hatch. The key can move it just fine, so there must be something amiss with system that lets the key turn the release lever on and off. Guess I need to take off exterior center trim piece to see what is going on.

Definitely happy with the part though and will install it once I have sorted my other issue Thanks again for making it!
Glad it arrived safely. Bummer the fix for yours seems to involve the mechanism in that center trim area. You have to pull off a few extra layers to get in there, unfortunately. Let me know what you find out!
 

suprarx7nut

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Heads up everyone, YotaMD store has a BOGO 50% off sale running through Monday.

If you've got some broken cargo cover clips or a hatch release that doesn't quite release right, pick now's your chance to save some cash. The Stealth Volt Meter is also included.

 

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debrucer

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Glad it arrived safely. Bummer the fix for yours seems to involve the mechanism in that center trim area. You have to pull off a few extra layers to get in there, unfortunately. Let me know what you find out!
That's pretty cool stuff. How come you are "out" of a product you print? Do you have a link to more info on how you're making parts? Seems like once you've mastered three or four worthwhile parts that you'd start cranking out more. What can you tell us about the process? I will admit that it's been a while since I've read this thread, and maybe there are answers above. I will re-read. In my tinkering with things, I have deliberately partitioned off "drones" and "3D printers", thinking the technology will get better without me. I'm still intrigued with the possibilities. How about some first-hand knowledge on where we are today?

Edit: So, now that I've re-read the thread, I do get arguments against, but still, for something that only has to be printed to be in stock, that's just too cool. Getting to the point where the print button comes in is much harder :)
 
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suprarx7nut

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David, the parts are all designed in SolidWorks. I have a MarkForged Onyx Pro printer in house so that's used for most prototyping and for anything that needs to be near-metal in strength. It's a fascinating technology unlike most any other printer (I think MarkForged holds patents on the core of the technology so there are no competitors I know of). It uses chopped carbon fiber within a nylon base (not unusual, although the MarkForged material is stronger than any other similar material I've seen tested), but the real party piece is the continuous fiber filament. My printer does fiberglass, but they also do continuous carbon fiber, high temp fiberglass and kevlar. The cargo clips and the hatch cable block have fiberglass reinforcement. The printer has two separate print heads - one for each material.

I'm out of the switch panel because I don't print that in house (at least not right now) because it's a cosmetic item. My printer can do some great surface finishes at the right angle. The way I designed that switch insert is such that I can't easily orient the part to print with an excellent finish on the outer face. I have those printed by $250k+ machines at a local engineering firm. They can produce exceptional parts with zero restrictions on support materials and orientation.

3D printing in general: I think it's the future of manufacturing. Many huge companies are fully invested in it. This includes Boeing, Lockheed, GM, etc... With many enterprise level printers being SO good now, traditional CNC machining and plastic molding is on its way out for more and more applications. Markforged makes a metal printer that can print M2 threads in Titanium, inconel, stainless steel and other metals. That's surreal. M2 threads are TINY. There are other print companies like Carbon and EOS that do other great things as well. Prices continue to drop and quality is already at/beyond typical CNC and molding processes for many parts. 3D printing can save money on complex geometries because you don't need to throw away removed material. That matters more and more when you're dealing with titanium or similar exotics.

I think the one thing that gives folks reservations about 3D printing is that they see the cheap stuff and think that represents 3D printing in general. In reality, the spectrum of 3D printing is enormous and covers complete junk printed on $100 machines to million dollar machines building components for airplanes. The Onyx Pro that I have is about as low in quality/cost as I was willing to go and it was $7k. It's not exactly the $200 dremel kit your neighborhood kid might have to print toy cars.

I'll be making more parts for the Supra as my Ookii Ao project gets closer to completion. I expect to design a variety of brackets and ducts that will use printed parts, showing off what that carbon fiber/nylon/fiberglass composite material can do. Stay tuned for more good stuff!
 
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debrucer

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Thanks for the run down. I will research your setup a bit, and try to download a trial of SolidWorks. How long is the turn-around when you farm out the parts that need the better finish? Are they are competitive and quick as some of the companies that do custom circuit boards which can be turned around quickly in small quantities? Damn I wish I could get my car done to free up the shop and time to do some other stuff :) Thanks again.
 

suprarx7nut

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Thanks for the run down. I will research your setup a bit, and try to download a trial of SolidWorks. How long is the turn-around when you farm out the parts that need the better finish? Are they are competitive and quick as some of the companies that do custom circuit boards which can be turned around quickly in small quantities? Damn I wish I could get my car done to free up the shop and time to do some other stuff :) Thanks again.
Solidworks is tough to get cheaply. I don't think they do trials and the base software is around $5k. You could use Fusion360 instead. That's a great entry level option and I think it's free.

Turn around on parts is generally <2 weeks. I just haven't prioritized that switch panel because I sell one a month or so. It's a tiny spec in YotaMD sales so getting it back in stock has just been a low priority. If you're interested in one, just let me know and I'll make sure to get a couple run on my next order.

The beauty of 3D printing is that costs are relatively fixed per part, regardless of quantity. Unlike CNC and molding, you can easily churn out just a couple parts with very little setup costs.
 
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zhenya2002

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This is really great stuff! I'll have to get some things when my supra is that far along. Out of curiosity, do you have any plans of making rubber parts in the future, specifically moulding and weather stripping that's really hard to find in good shape these days? Or things like the taillight housing.
 

suprarx7nut

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This is really great stuff! I'll have to get some things when my supra is that far along. Out of curiosity, do you have any plans of making rubber parts in the future, specifically moulding and weather stripping that's really hard to find in good shape these days? Or things like the taillight housing.
I would love to make it all. One of my potential dream future scenarios for YotaMD is to be a parts manufacturer. I've worked as a manufacturing engineer most my career and I really enjoy that work. The tough part about creating the parts you listed is that they're all very high up front cost items. Those can't be printed and must all be molded. Some of those molds could be printed, but it'd still be an enormous upfront cost. Tens of thousands. I'd have to charge $1000 per item to stand a chance of turning any profit.

I do keep looking for parts to produce at a reasonable cost, so suggestions are always welcome.
 

zhenya2002

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I would love to make it all. One of my potential dream future scenarios for YotaMD is to be a parts manufacturer. I've worked as a manufacturing engineer most my career and I really enjoy that work. The tough part about creating the parts you listed is that they're all very high up front cost items. Those can't be printed and must all be molded. Some of those molds could be printed, but it'd still be an enormous upfront cost. Tens of thousands. I'd have to charge $1000 per item to stand a chance of turning any profit.

I do keep looking for parts to produce at a reasonable cost, so suggestions are always welcome.
From reading your posts, I can tell you worked in engineering and manufacturing. I do engineering software (like NX and Teamcenter) for work as well, just from an IT perspective. I had asked around about the rubber moldings and most people say exactly what you said, up front costs are crazy. Is it feasible at all to print any of those?

Well if you've seen the shape of my supra, you can tell I will have tons of suggestions for parts lol. I'm located in Florida so most cars from junkyards are completely destroyed by the sun. The tail light assembly (the part the bulbs clip into) would be fantastic, because mine just crumple in your hands.
 

suprarx7nut

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From reading your posts, I can tell you worked in engineering and manufacturing. I do engineering software (like NX and Teamcenter) for work as well, just from an IT perspective. I had asked around about the rubber moldings and most people say exactly what you said, up front costs are crazy. Is it feasible at all to print any of those?

Well if you've seen the shape of my supra, you can tell I will have tons of suggestions for parts lol. I'm located in Florida so most cars from junkyards are completely destroyed by the sun. The tail light assembly (the part the bulbs clip into) would be fantastic, because mine just crumple in your hands.
My workplace uses NX and Teamcenter. I have played with NX, but never felt comfortable. Everything just feels awkward for some reason.

You could print a small molding with a resin printer, but overall life would be poor I think, due to UV. Small molds are not too crazy, but most the molding I need/want are 3-4 feet long. That tool is going to cost $10k, even out of a low cost aluminum.

We'll see where things go. If Toyota doesn't release a huge selection of parts through their heritage program, I'll have to start pushing to make more of these myself.
 
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A70nut

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Window moulding clips would be a super good product to reproduce. Since it seems usually the trim can be saved but the plastic clips get destroyed.
 

suprarx7nut

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Window moulding clips would be a super good product to reproduce. Since it seems usually the trim can be saved but the plastic clips get destroyed.
I agree. I'm literally about to walk into my garage and finish up painting on my mk3. In a short while I'll be reinstalling trim and I may just need some new clips. If I do, I'll try to print them and see how they do.

So far, most the clips I broke during disassembly were still available at the dealer.
 

suprarx7nut

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Here's a 12mm hatch cable block after printing. Decent marketing pic, I think. You can see the fiberglass fiber spool in the background. The black Onyx material lives in a sealed Pelican case behind the printer.

1575483706206.png
 
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YotedmyMA70

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I installed my voltage meter and hatch release block this weekend. The voltage meter works prefect and looks great. I would’ve taken a picture but I couldn’t get my camera to focus on the LED light and the car so they were all blurry.
The hatch release block didn’t work out for me though. I got the 12mm and it still had enough slack in it to stay closed. The funny part is that I have a big subwoofer under the hatch, and I didn’t think about moving it before testing the release latch so I kinda had to scoot it at an angle to get the release lever on the tail end of the car. The outside lever is completely stuck so using the key wasn’t an option for me either. I have found that you can use zip ties to fix the hatch cable problem like in this picture.
7390C6EF-5966-4C1F-A3A5-57395C0AEBA3.jpeg
The zip ties just need to go between the ball and the lever.
I’m still gonna leave the block in there so I can brag to my friends that I have 3D printed parts in my Supra lol, and I’m looking forward to whatever you guys come up with next.
 

suprarx7nut

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I installed my voltage meter and hatch release block this weekend. The voltage meter works prefect and looks great. I would’ve taken a picture but I couldn’t get my camera to focus on the LED light and the car so they were all blurry.
The hatch release block didn’t work out for me though. I got the 12mm and it still had enough slack in it to stay closed. The funny part is that I have a big subwoofer under the hatch, and I didn’t think about moving it before testing the release latch so I kinda had to scoot it at an angle to get the release lever on the tail end of the car. The outside lever is completely stuck so using the key wasn’t an option for me either. I have found that you can use zip ties to fix the hatch cable problem like in this picture.
View attachment 82587
The zip ties just need to go between the ball and the lever.
I’m still gonna leave the block in there so I can brag to my friends that I have 3D printed parts in my Supra lol, and I’m looking forward to whatever you guys come up with next.
Does the block just need to be longer (more than 12mm slack take up)? If so, I can do an exchange and get you an even longer version.

I had the zip tie solution on my 90 a while back and it worked~ish. It would wear out over time and I kept having to throw on another zip tie or replace it with a wider one.
 

YotedmyMA70

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Does the block just need to be longer (more than 12mm slack take up)? If so, I can do an exchange and get you an even longer version.

I had the zip tie solution on my 90 a while back and it worked~ish. It would wear out over time and I kept having to throw on another zip tie or replace it with a wider one.
Don’t worry about it man, my car is funky back there and I’m too lazy to get back into it again. I think a longer block could probably work but I’m not sure how many more millimeters I would need.
 
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suprarx7nut

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Don’t worry about it man, my car is funky back there and I’m too lazy to get back into it again. I think a longer block could probably work but I’m not sure how many more millimeters I would need.
Alright, just reach out if you change your mind. One other person had a similar experience and I think they too just had too much slack. I should probably change the 12mm to a 15mm or even 18mm.
 
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