The Aristo tranny is a A34x series tranny. The problem is it has a tailshaft with a 3 prong yolk (it isn't even compatible with the MKIV Supra hahhaha) ... The Soarer and Chaser use the same series tranny but they have the slip yolk tailshaft just like the 7M/A340 which allows you to use the stock driveshaft, and the port for the speedo cable to drive the speedo gauge.Are you saying you can run the 2JZ-GTE with a 1JZ-GTE ecu? Or running the A34x with the stock 2JZ-GTE ecu?
Sounds like they gave you a MKIV W58 which has an extension linkage for the shifter.I have a question. I have read this post several times and haven't seen any information about my problem. I had a shop do a 2JZ-GTE with a W58 and it seems that the shift handle is so far back that they cut the console and the boot kit won't fit. Is there any way to remedy this with a different shifter? Bye the way the car is a 89 Supra!
Yes, use the USDM water pump.is that pump listed in the list on the 1st page for a usdm pump if you don't want to do the hydro fan set up?
Use a 7M-GTE clutch disk and pressure plate if you're using a R-154 with a 1JZ flywheel.also what about clutch dick can i use a 7m clutch disk or whats my options?
No but you need remove the protective plate and move them down/out of the way to hammer your firewall in about an inch for the rear twin's intake to clear the firewall.also anybody have pics of the how close the fit is with the abs lines and the twins...? thanks
A 1JZ and 7M-GTE disk and pressure plate are the same thing since the 1JZ came with a R154 for a manual. Only difference is the bellhousing.o ok so i just need 1j flywheel i don't need a 1jz disk and pressure plate?
is there any little thing you might have missed when you were getting your 2j swap done or any more advice..my buddy is going come from socal to help me do the swap so i want to make sure i got everything there
thanks for answering my questions
Lol i was freaking out when the brackets didnt work then i called aaron at driftmotion and he told me about using the fuel damp bolts for the bracket, do u have any more pics of the hammering of the firewall?I am 99% finished with the swap and I've come across a few items that no one else has ever mentioned before;
2) You definitely need to hammer your firewall to help you drop the engine in due to the intake portion of the rear twin. On top of hammering the firewall, you need to drop your ABS lines as low as possible by removing all the mounting tabs.
3) If using the BIC brackets, they are way too thin to use with the stock engine bracket bolts. You'll need to find some 20mm length bolts to use with those brackets. I ended up using the auto flexplate bolts which fit perfectly with washers I had laying around. You also use the rear most bolt holes on both sides. The intake side requires unbolting the fuel pressure dampener and using it's bolts for the bracket.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. I figured it's worth mentioning to those of you who are not expecting it like I did.
where are these located? the only oil lines i remember are the oil pickup tube and the oil drain and dipstickI ran into a little problem with my 2jz swap and didn't see it covered on here.
The upper oil pan when doing a 2jzgte swap in my 89 MK3 I noticed there is a flange with 2 oil lines going to it.
I went to swap the old one off the Front sump pan and noticed the housing/flange didn't line up and that the 2 lines that go to it must me differant as well.
If any one knows?,.... What is the flange part # and the part # for the two lines?
In your second pic you can see the hole where it mounts up. its on the passanger side. In your pic with your rear sump next to your engine its right there in the pic next to your throttle body. I'll try and take some pic's.where are these located? the only oil lines i remember are the oil pickup tube and the oil drain and dipstick
i do think you mean the dipstick and the dummy sensor, you leave the dummy sensor and well you make the dipstick work