2JZGE MKIII with 7MGTE Wiring and Electronics

supra87t/t4

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#1
As discussed in several other threads a few of us have 2JZGE NA-T projects going on right now. I got mine running last weekend so it must be time to start my own thread. My goal is to keep costs down and modifications to a minimum, this includes keeping the 7M wiring with as few modifications as possible. If everything works out as I hope, you would be able to do this swap for less than the cost of rebuilding your rodknocked or even BHG'd 7M. The car this is going in is not my main supra, just a little side project for fun and to try something different. It's not being built for a huge turbo or massive power, I'll probably even keep the W58, it'll be awhile before I even put a turbo on it, but who knows where a project like this will take you, that's half the fun. For now I'll share a few pics and a rundown of what I did to get the engine running with the 7M wiring, I'll keep updates coming build thread style.

From memory, here are all the connectors on the 7M harness and what I did with them

O2 sensor - not hooked up yet - I was using a thread in style sensor in a custom downpipe with the 7M, I just need to find the stock flange style sensor and it should bolt right into the header, the sensors fror the 2jzge a single wrie with a different connector than the 7M

Oil Pressure - not hooked up yet - I separated this wire out of the loom that crosses the engine and plan to replace the stock oil pressure sensor (near where the A/C was) with the 7M one, but it won't screw into the block because it's too big around. I plan to use some pipe fittings or get the adapter from driftmotion to solve this.

Coolant Temp(s) - replace 2JZGE sensors with 7M ones - Again these wires were pulled out of the loom running across the engine as the coolant sensor ports on the 2JZGE are just under the intake runners, the 7M sensors thread right in, the singe wire one for the gauge and the two wire one for the ECU, there is one wire from the two wire sensor that needed to be extended because it was spliced into another wire right near the CPS.

Cold Start Coolant Temp - N/A - there is no cold start injector on the 2JZGE, obviously cold starts are handled some other way by the 2JZGE ECU and since I still have the 7M ECU I really should have a CSI, but I'll live without it, it wasn't hooked up when I had the 7M anyway.

CPS - modify 7M cps to fit in 2JZGE head - another slot needs to be made in the 7M CPS to fit the 2JZGE head, wiring is unchanged.

Alternator - use 2JZGE alternator - with the alternator relocated to the intake side of the engine the stock wiring will hook up, except that the hole in the battery cable needs to be enlarged as the stud on the 2JZGE alternater is larger than the 7M one. EDIT: It appears that the connector on later year 2JZGE alternators is different than the 7M connector

Injectors - use 7M injectors - any injector that fits the 7M will fit the 2JZGE, my injector wires had already been extended since I had switched the connector a couple times for the 7M, so I can't say for sure that they will reach at stock length.

ISC - extend wires, use 2JZGE ISC - There's no way the stock wires will reach the ISC as it is way over on teh exhaust side of the head, I just extended the wires, the plugs are the same on both cars, I didn't check the wiring, but I assue it's the same.

TPS - creatively mount 7M sensor, extend wires - The TPS sensors both rotate the same way, but the little tabs inside are 90 degrees different, for now I have mounted the 7M sensor 90* off normal, which leaves the connector/wires pointing straight up, possibly into the hood, I may need to try to modify the little plate on the throttle body to mount it 90* off instead. Another option would be to use the 2JZGE sensor, as I would expect the signals to be the same, however the connector is different and the one that came on my 2JZGE harness is broken

Knock sensors - use 7M sensors - 7M sensors screw right on where the 2JZGE sensors were, I'm sure the sensors were tuned for the 7M block, but oh well, the connectors on the 2JZGE sensors are different

Cold Start Injector - not used - there is no cold start injector on a 2JZGE as covered above, it would be more work than it's worth to try to add it to the 2JZGE intake and alot of people run without it anyway.

VSV's - not hooked up - I had removed these from my 7M harness, you could easy hook them up as long as you understnd what they do.

Starter - use 2JZGE starter - same connectors as 7M, just hook them up. EDIT: It appears that the connector on later year 2JZGE starters is different than the 7M connector

Transmission wires - not hooked up yet - if you are keeping the same transmission in the car, then obviously they are a no brainer, I just havent given much thought to them yet, I will be using a MKIII W58 with the bellhousing from the 2JZGE, since the 2JZGE W58 had a different mount and no speedo cable.

Coilpacks - still need solution - where I have them right now the stock connector reached and I used two sets of 7MGTE wires to get enough long wires to reach the plugs, but this is obviously a temporary solution

AFM - use 7M AFM - I'll be using a stock AFM for now and probably a lexus later, just because I have one and it's all I need to make the power I'm looking for, the wiring should reach and if you have the piping from the 2JZGE it might fit without much work.

Did I forget any?

Also the stock throttle cable is too short, I'll be trying a camry one this weekend along with working on other issues as I find them.
 
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supra87t/t4

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#2
At this point the engine has just been set in the car and only the bare minimum of things have been hooked up, I know there will be issues and I know I'll be pulling it back out, I just want to check my wiring and that the engine will start and run and I haven't missed something big.

The first three pics are of a very dirty engine in a very dirty car with very temporary plug wires and coilpack mounting.

The fourth picture is of my belt routing which I am very happy with, I need to make a better bracket(but I did a good job of hiding it in the pic) to relocate the alternator to the drivers side of the engine where the A/C and power steering used to be.

Last pic is of the modified 7M CPS, it could have turned out a little nicer, but works fine.
 

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supra87t/t4

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First pic shows the 7M CPS mounted to the stock TB, I may just leave it like this if the hood will clear, it's not the most elegant solution, but was easy to do.

Second pic shows that the stock SC300 exhaust won't clear the MKIII front subframe, most people probably don't care about that, but it is an issue.
 

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935motorsports

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#6
I love the project, many of us have theorized about how easy it would be.

I would suggest power steering if possible. It would make everything great. I hate to see a nice clean swap ruined by lack of PS. Making the alternator work in the proper location is very easy, just extend the 3 wires and the battery cable. You can actually use the factory jza70 battery extension cable if you can find one.
 

JonoTurbo

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#8
One suggestion for the TPS, I don't know if you're using a turbo or NA 7m TPS, but one is clocked 90 degrees off from the other. So you should be able to switch to the other and bolt it up without having it point up towards the hood. They both have the same connector as well.
 

supra87t/t4

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#9
JonoTurbo said:
One suggestion for the TPS, I don't know if you're using a turbo or NA 7m TPS, but one is clocked 90 degrees off from the other. So you should be able to switch to the other and bolt it up without having it point up towards the hood. They both have the same connector as well.
Awesome idea, I didn't know that. I was using a turbo one, but I'm sure I have an NA one somewhere. Thanks, I'll test it out this weekend.
 
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supra87t/t4

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#10
The alternator fits right over the stud that the PS was mounted to, then I just made a bracket that goes from one of the AC mounting bolts to the other hole on the alternator. The belt is ~15" shorter than stock, 61.5" I believe.

I realize that some people think leaving the PS off is half-assed, and obviously it's true that keeping the alternator on the passenger side would be just as easy as extending the wires. My 7M PS always leaked and would cut out at the worst times leading me to believe that I was better off without it, after I took it off I never regretted it and I even cut some of the hard lines going to the rack, so there is no way I'll be using PS on this swap. I'll leave that up to someone else to figure out and share with the rest of us how they did it.
 
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supra87t/t4

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#12
Just look up the part number for a stock belt from your favorite brand and replace the 763 with 615, if that's too short a 620 is also a commonly available size.

IE stock SC300 belt from NAPA
25060763
I used
25060615

Gates would be
K060763 -> K060615

ETC.

Different manufacturers use different numbering systems, but the length is always in the part number somewhere.
 

RacerXJ220

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#13
Talking about powersteering, I used a 1J powersteering pump (1JZ head so 2JZ-GE would not fit), and the 2JZ-GTE PS line. I used a 7M-GE reservoir on the driver's side. I used the 7M factory PS hardlines, and yes it goes from one side of the motor, to the other side into the cooler, then all the way back to the other side of the car to the reservoir. It doesn't feel as strong as the 7M did, but it is better than having NO power steering IMO.
 

supra87t/t4

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#14
Here's the length differences between
stock MIII throttle cable (top)
92-96 Camry cable (middle)
97-? Camry cable (bottom)

And a comparison of the
7MGTE CPS (left)
2JZGE CPS (middle)
7MGE CPS (right)

The 7MGE CPS should work perfect (thanks again JonoTurbo). The Camry cable is longer than I need and also the threaded part on the end isn't as long as it should be and barely fits in the holder bracket. I don't know why this didn't occur to me before today, but there's a good chance a SC300 or GS300 cable would work (Duh) I'll have to take a look at my GF's GS.
 

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hottscennessey

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#16
supra87t/t4 said:
Just look up the part number for a stock belt from your favorite brand and replace the 763 with 615, if that's too short a 620 is also a commonly available size.

IE stock SC300 belt from NAPA
25060763
I used
25060615

Gates would be
K060763 -> K060615

ETC.

Different manufacturers use different numbering systems, but the length is always in the part number somewhere.
Thanks so much for the belt thing.. thanks to you I could type in endings until I found one that was the correct legnth! Now I can just take the PN to napa :)
 

supra87t/t4

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#17
That's what I did too, just keep trying numbers unil you find a match that's close. I found about 10 different sizes from napa and then I cross checked all those at autozone and only 3 or 4 came up there, so I picked one of those. I knew I would buy it from napa, but they still don't show if parts are in stock on their website :(
 

T34418L3ONE

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#18
why dont you just make a custom cable? you can goto your local bike shop and get everything you need for under $20.
 

supra87t/t4

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#21
Progress is slow, I only get a chance to work on the car on the weekends.

I put in the 7MGE TPS and the MKIII O2 sensor and fired up the car to set the timing and check the diagnostic codes. Everything checked out, but it should since the only electronics that changed was the ISC.

The Camry throttle cable isn't ideal, I either need to make a new thinner TB end mount closer to the bellcrank or try an SC300 cable which from the pics I saw on Ebay is different but similar to the MKIII cable.

I also set the radiator in to see how the radiator hoses would line up, the bottom hose I shoud be able to cut down the stock MKIII hose (actually I didn't even check the SC00 hose, I'll have to see if that would work without cutting) The top hose looks like a bitch, I'll have to see if any of the other JZ engines have a similar inlet (I'll check the SC300 hose here too) EDIT: the 1JZGTE and 2JZGTE both have the inlets on the exhaust side, not like the 2JZGE, but the SC300 hose looks like it will probably work.

It looks like the coil packs will mount pretty nicely on the very back of the valvecover, still need to find a good solution for plug wires.

Now I have the engine back out so I can rework the exhaust (was hitting the subframe) and try a couple fittings I bought to get the 7M oil pressure sensor mounted. I also need to finish the harness now that I verified everything works. Also need to make EGR blockoff plates and research the vacuum routing for the SC300, so I know what to block off, etc.
 

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hottscennessey

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#22
Bottom radiator hose will work fine if you cut an 1"-1.5" off. For the top hose I took the stock MKIII lower hose, and cut off one of the bends, and it fit fine!
 

jmcboost

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#23
Just payed RANDJDISTRIBUTING for the 2JZGE. They were very nice and easy to work with. Just letting you know I will be hitting you up for questions soon. Thanks for the informative thread.
 

jmcboost

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#26
.


hottscennessey said:
J/W, how much did it run you after shipping out there JMCBoost?
It must have been $250 for shipping, 500 for the engine and 250 for shipping. Not bad at all. I will know for sure once I get to inspect the engine. Should have it in a few days
 

jmcboost

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#27
Also, remember I am watching your every move on your builds so don't mess up, because then I will too. But really, thanks for the threads of knowledge and I will try to make a build thread of my own.
 

trydrew

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#28
supra87t/t4 said:
It looks like the coil packs will mount pretty nicely on the very back of the valvecover, still need to find a good solution for plug wires.
Have you seen tookwik's recent mod? Would it be easier to make a harness like he did and use the 2jz coils? Or are you sticking with the all 7M electronics point?
 

supra87t/t4

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#29
Thanks, I hadn't seen it, very cool mod. I'll consider it, but will probably stick with the 7M stuff for now.
 

Supraboostin

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#30
jmcboost said:
Also, remember I am watching your every move on your builds so don't mess up, because then I will too. But really, thanks for the threads of knowledge and I will try to make a build thread of my own.
WTF a little demanding there
 

jmcboost

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#31
Supraboostin said:
WTF a little demanding there

Ya, Hopefully that comment was taken how I meant it, as a joke.:naughty: I know that it is almost impossible to do this swap without trial and error. Thats why I am glad these guys are doing threads on this. I don't think I would even attempt this swap without these threads.
 

jmcboost

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#32
I know this thread is more of an electronics based thread, but I think this fits with the swap information. I am currently doing this swap and have motor mount question. My mounts on my 7M fell apart (the rubber seperated from the metal mount) when I took the engine out. The mounts for the 2J were the same, broken. Which mounts do I need to use to swap the 2J in my 7M the 7M or 2J mounts. Also is there any way to fix my mounts? My supra is a 1990.
 

jmcboost

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#34
What about the rubber part falling off. How do I fix that? Buy a new rubber part, or do I have to buy the whole thing? And what do you have to grind on the 2J mount and why?
 

nille__

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#35
im in the middle of a 2jz swap and I use. 1jz engine brackets and 2jz engine mounts BUT i cant get the engine in place.. i've removed the crossmember just trying to fit the engine in it. Its at the absolute top of the brackets in the crossmember. It looks like it fit if i chime the 2 mount points at the engine. Im from sweden so im not the best at spelling and grammar. hehe
 

supra87t/t4

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#37
The BIC mounts will work. Not all 1JZ mount brackets are the same, it depends what car the engine was originally in.

Nille, do you have the newer style crossmember? Only the BIC mounts will work with the older crossmember.
 

88supraTT

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#38
how can you tell if you have the right cross member i know one is a different design but dose anyone know when they put the "right" cross member in i am deffently considering this swap.i know they put it in in 1989 but people have said their is two 1989 cross members?
plz correct me if i am wrong

thanks caleb
 

supra87t/t4

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#39
If you look at your 7M mounts you can tell, the old style has a square mount and the bracket going to the engine is made of bent plate steel, the new style has a round mount and the bracket is cast aluminum. Either way you need new brackets, no 2JZGE came with brackets that will work on an A70 subframe. BIC now makes brackets for either subframe (I think), or you can use the JZA70 ones if you have the later subframe.
 

nille__

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#40
supra87t/t4 said:
The BIC mounts will work. Not all 1JZ mount brackets are the same, it depends what car the engine was originally in.

Nille, do you have the newer style crossmember? Only the BIC mounts will work with the older crossmember.
Yes i have one pre89 and one 89+.

You can tell which one you got by looking at which angel the mounts go in the brackets in the crossmember.

I think the problem is that i use 2jz engine mounts. Someone told it would fit if i grind down the dowel pins. But it looks like it doesnt... to bad cause i have ordered trd 2jz mounts.

Im gonna try with 7m mounts today or i will chime the top mountingpoints att the brackets.