2JZ-GE-T Build - 89 Turbo Supra

Alpinesupra

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hey nick just cane accross your build thread here, even though im not a fan of the constant 2j swap into the mk3 chasis, to eash his own. :)
your looking in good shape there bro, hang on to those 7m peices i may be hitting you up for some parts for my girls car, and as for the exhuast that tanabe is a great system but if you want it a little louder than yes you can have the resionator cut out but do keep it incase you wanna go back to it or sell the system, however you cant really gut the muffler because it is a straight through design instead of a chamber design like stock or a flowmaster so its going to sound alot better and already flow well.

-sean
 

XofXtimeX

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So today was painting and some assembly day.

Painted the block flat black
Painted the Lexus AFM flat black
Painted damaged valve covers flat black. (So the imperfections wouldn't show as much... :()

Pict-chas:

Block before paint:



After Paint:





I know this is like my 26th picture of this. But it looks better with paint...



The hoopty:



Painted AFM:









You're doing it wrong.



Kidding! A friend of mine helping me test piston ring gap while I take pictures :) Note the 2LTR bottle of Diet A&W. The block was thirsty...



Thanks for looking.

-Nick-
 

XofXtimeX

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Josh: Yep it's that amazing singled 2JZ sound that I really want to hear. Tossing around the idea of switching out the Tanabe. I'd obviously have to find someone local either willing to trade or just figure out something to do with the system itself to let out more sound.

Scott: I decided on flat black just because... Well I really like flat black lol.

Sean: Thanks man I appreciate it. Those parts are here waiting for anyone to buy them :) so if you or anyone you know needs some spare parts just give me a ring.

Block is fully assembled and it was plastigauged. :)

Be back on it tomorrow.

-Nick-
 

XofXtimeX

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Not a weird post at all man lol. Thanks for the kind words.

I believe he has some pit mixed with lab in him. He's a beautiful dog and has a really nice coat. Just about solid muscle and you really cant do too much that will hurt him.

-Nick-
 

Alpinesupra

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hey nick,
with your current turbo and power goals that tanabe will be more than plentaful, if you want it louder as i said above just go and have the resionator cut out but do save it incase you wanna throw it back on or sell it with it.

good work so far.

-sean
 

XofXtimeX

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Well I suppose it's about that time for another update. :)

In our last session we were able to accomplish the assembly of the bottom end. Now how did that make you feel? (Just re-read that with a psychiatrist tone to it. Yeah I'm tired and in a funky mood... :runaway: )

So I had my manifold rewelded by a local shop however... The pipes were moved too far over and the brace was rewelded in a very poor spot. There is no room for the nut for the wastegate. So I'm going to take it back up there tomorrow to see if he can redo it.

I had a question for Scott or Josh. Or anyone who's using this manifold/downpipe/wastegate/dumptube from XS Power or "China Special." Do you think there will be clearance issues with the placement of the dump tube? There is a picture down below.

Oooookay enough of the weird stuff. Hopefully. Onto the pictures.

First came installation of the studs into the block.



ARP ART. Lol...





Head with covers on. Flat black obsession anyone?



My engine is looking at YOU! :aigo: Don't worry I plan on cleaning up the cam gear cover so it will be no more McDonalds sign on the front of my 2JZ.



WASTEGATE DUMP TUBE PLACEMENT:





Thoughts?

This is the problem with the manifold.



BTW Josh did you ever figure out the rich problem?

Thanks!

-Nick-
 

dok33

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You're probably going to need to angle the dump tube more towards the block, I think it'll hit the firewall the way you have it. Might just be able to rotate it and bolt it back on.

Didn't get a chance to mess with the Supra last night, building a car for the GRM $2008 challenge with some friends and it's been taking all of my time lately. Hopefully get to mess with it some tonight, I'm hoping it's the knock sensors like you suggested...
 

XofXtimeX

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Hey Josh I had a question about intercooler piping. Did you have to cut anything on the body of the car to get it to fit? I'd REALLY like to stay away from cutting... Did you use the DriftMotion kit? What size piping?

Aaron and DriftMotion made a little mistake and sent me the Oil Pressure Sender Unit instead of the 1JZ Oil Pressure Sender Adapter that I ordered priority. It's okay though, honest mistake. So I'm sending the Unit back today and hopefully he can get the actual part I ordered out today as well.

However this does put me back a day or two. :-(

-Nick-
 

dok33

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I used a 7M kit I bought off of ebay for $250 (CXRacing), had to buy 1 extra 45deg coupler and shorten the 3000 pipe that came with it but it fit pretty good. I believe the piping is 2.5" and I didn't have to cut anything on the body.

The IC routing is one of the harder parts of the swap, especially the turbo outlet. I spent alot of time moving pipes around until I found something that worked. Kind of frustrating when it's ready to run and that's all you have left to do LOL...
 

hottscennessey

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got your message,
The water temp sensors are underneath the intake manifold runners on the front of the head.

From front to back it's ECU temp sensor / gauge sensor. The 7M sensors will thread right in.
 

XofXtimeX

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Okay awesome. I'll probably have some more questions today/tonight as yesterday was mostly setting the timing up, tapping the union bolt (which I have a question about) painting more stuff flat black. I swear this build should be "The Batman" build or some shit. I kind of went crazy with the flat black. So considering that The Dark Knight is coming out soon... It may fit? I dunno...

UNION BOLT QUESTION!

So I've got this T fitting from XSPower that came in my kit. My 7M oil pressure sensor threads into this. So it looks like the union bolt bolts up to the bracket, the T fitting, feed line running off of it and the Oil Pressure Sending unit will thread into that. Could I use this instead of the DriftMotion adapter? (sucks because I've already ordered it and was shipped the wrong part and its not here even though i shipped priority... But its all good. Honest mistake.)

Thoooooughts?

Also what do I do with the other clips for the A/C Coolant Sensor switch Radiator Cooling Fan Switch? Also the BVSV? AGH! I hate wiring so I'm extremely nervous...

Thanks

-Nick-
 
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dok33

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On the extra wires, you can either unloom the harness and pull them out or do what I did and clip them off and heatshrink the ends. Sounds like it's coming together!!
 

XofXtimeX

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So these wires aren't necessary for this setup?

Thanks man! Yeah I'm sitting at the dining room table right now doing the wiring. Need to finish up coil pack wires, ISC, about to do TPS which btw I can use the 2JZ NA TPS correct? Then I need to extend the alternator wires then I'll be DONE! At least I think so haha.

Yeah man I'm getting really excited. If I bust my ass today I might be able to drop it in... :aigo::aigo::aigo::aigo:

THANKS MAN!

-Nick-
 

XofXtimeX

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Definitely need some help...

I was extending the ISC wires and uh... I didnt mark which one of the two Black/Red wires goes to the top of the clip and which one goes to the bottom... Yep... Definitely just did that...

It's a 6 wire clip stacked 3 and 3 on top of eachother and the black/red is in the middle on both of them...

Okay how the hell do i figure out which one goes to which?

THANKS!!!!! :1zhelp:

-Nick-


EDIT!!!!!!!!!! Looking at the TEWD...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47

That shows two Black Red wires going into one... However it only shows a 4 wire clip and the ISC is 6 wire.

Agh... Help?
 
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dok33

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For the TPS, check the link in my sig for the wiring info. As far as the ISC goes, there are 4 wires that go to the ECU directly and 2 (b/r) that go elsewhere. Don't matta which goes where as both the b/r wires end up in the same place.
 

hottscennessey

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Definitely need some help...

I was extending the ISC wires and uh... I didnt mark which one of the two Black/Red wires goes to the top of the clip and which one goes to the bottom... Yep... Definitely just did that...

It's a 6 wire clip stacked 3 and 3 on top of eachother and the black/red is in the middle on both of them...

Okay how the hell do i figure out which one goes to which?

THANKS!!!!! :1zhelp:

-Nick-


EDIT!!!!!!!!!! Looking at the TEWD...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47

That shows two Black Red wires going into one... However it only shows a 4 wire clip and the ISC is 6 wire.

Agh... Help?
TWED shows the 6 wires, the BR X2 (12v hot w/ fuel pump), and the 4 wires coming from the ECU (grounds for signal).

Since the BR wires are spliced together it doesn't matter which goes to which pin.
 

dok33

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TWED shows the 6 wires, the BR X2 (12v hot w/ fuel pump), and the 4 wires coming from the ECU (grounds for signal).

Since the BR wires are spliced together it doesn't matter which goes to which pin.
Great minds think alike :) Wait, I'm not sure if mine is great LOL

And oh yea, on the VSVs, I'm not running any and the car runs fine. Does away with some wiring and vac hoses...
 
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XofXtimeX

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Awesome! Thanks a million guys! Just have to solder up those last two wires, wire in the SAFC then harness is done (hopefully) and I've got a long list of stuff that needs to get done tomorrow. WOOT!

Seriously thanks for the help guys.

TPS Yeah i was lazy so I asked the question before actually finding it in your thread.

ISC That's what I was thinking but I just wanted to make sure because I'm a complete wiring newbie.

Scott I had a question about your turbo, I was working out a solution to my drain line and I looked at your picture of your bay when mocking up intercooler pipes. I noticed your CHRA was clocked in order to run the oil drain in front of the runners, is that how you left it? If so then I've got my drain line worked out! I went and had a shop make a -10AN Stainless line to the pan.

Thanks yet again guys. BTW I drilled the slot for the CPS. I'll label that post "How not to drill the CPS." I'm not happy with how it turned out at all. I used a drill bit and file to have full adjustment range however theres a ramp from the section that i drilled the CPS to the circular part of it which will not allow me to put a nut on the end of it for securing it. Do I grind away at that section carefully in order for it to fit?

LAST QUESTION FOR TONIGHT!

How is start up without the coldstart injector? I ask because I have a remote start setup with my alarm system and I wanted to know if I would be able to use it. I believe if the alarm cannot start the car within a given about of time it will give up.

I'm off to bed to rest up for tomorrow. I'm crossing my fingers that i'll be ready to drop it in by 5 PM. Starting at 8:00AM.

Thanks one mo gin.

-Nick-
 

XofXtimeX

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Also I know this is a weird question but what did you guys use for bolts to bolt the transmission up to the block? I can't find bolts locally with the correct thread pattern that are any where near the right length.

Hell the bolts holding the block to the stand have spacers on them just to work.

Any ideas? :(

Thanks!!!!!!!!!

-Nick-
 

dok33

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I found the bolts for the block to bellhousing at Autozone or Home depot, can't remember which one.

For the CPS, I ghetto drilled mine too (why there are no pics of it in my thread :biglaugh:) and you do need to grind the sloped section down so that the nut can grab it.

As far as the CSI, the car takes about 5 seconds to fire up when it's cold and runs a little rough at first without it but it's no biggie.
 

Satan

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Damn Nick!! I dunno where I've been, but am just now catching up with your build.

Throw some pics on here and let us know where you are at with things...

Sounds good so far.
 

XofXtimeX

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Update should come tonight :) Thanks E!

I'd really like to get the engine in the car tonight if the weather holds up.

Wiring is mostly done. Just cleaning up and I still have to extend the alternator wire and purchase the O2 sensor and extend and connect.

I dremeled the upper timing cover to look at little better and repainted it :) Looks better.

Hopefully I've found some O Rings that will fit the oil filter adapter and coolant pipe on the exhaust side of the head on the front.

Update and pics tonight!

-Nick-

EDIT: Weather turned on me... Is it a sign? Maybe I should sell this setup and sell the Supra? NAAAAAHHH. I'll get everything i can get done without bolting transmission/clutch/flywheel up and get it ready for tomorrow.
 
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XofXtimeX

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Update...

Since I last updated I've drilled the CPS to use in the 2JZ head. Not happy with the way it turned out but it will work.

Did 98% of the wiring work. Still have to wire in O2 sensor and alternator wires but I'm going to do that while its in the car. But as far as I know all of the harness wires have been made to work and I've swapped over appropriate sensors as well.

Got rid of the McDonalds advertisement on my front timing cover. It looks better. Not great but better. Also repainted it with the same black paint. Earlier I painted it with VHT... Yeah bad idea. Didn't match at all and it had some sort of weird ceramic feeling to it. So I repainted it :)

Worked up a -10AN drain line since I didn't feel comfortable using the one in the kit.

Also painted the middle timing cover. I figured the lower timing cover wouldn't be seen enough to tell its a different black. Shh don't tell anyone.

Hm... I'm probably forgetting something...

Anyways picture time.

Wiring work station:



My lighter 8) :



Slowly coming together. Mocking up drain line.



AN fitting on it.



I've seen a few people run their turbo like this. Can anyone foresee a problem with it? I'm referring to the tilt of the CHRA section.



The pooch making sure I stay focused. Obviously it didn't work if I took a picture of him...



Oil line finally mocked up.



Not necessarily happy about this setup but I hope it will work.



Timing cover



ISC extension cleaned up.



2JZ TPS wires



Just a look back.

From this:



To this:



Hopefully I can get it in tomorrow. I keep saying that but I keep finding things that I need and being pushed back...

Thanks.

-Nick-
 

XofXtimeX

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So a little update.

I broke a piece of my block off. That was cool. The lower stud for the A/C comp I guess was over tightened and snapped the piece of the block it threads into. It just snapped the outside of the threads. So I'm hoping my block isn't ruined.

On top of that my A/C compressor bolts on the side of the engine are being little bitches. The lower one threads in just fine however the top one wont go in at all. The bolt has room, tries to catch threads and just pops back out. That's also cool. It feels stable so could I just use the lower bolt and the stud that broke the block?

Hope it doesn't have to come back out again.

Getting a little frustrated but I guess that just goes along with this or any project.

I'm off to work again.

Next is grinding the PS pump bracket. Lets see what can be broken there. :)

-Nick-
 

XofXtimeX

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So I SHOULD be dropping it in tomorrow. We'll see though. Stuff just always seems to come up! Mo money mo money mo money.

So the PS bracket was ground down as well as the CPS. Hopefully the A/C lines will fit onto the compressor! We'll see though, its not that much work to take it off to regrind.

Replaced all injector grommets with new ones. :)

Installed almost everything I'll need to drop it in. Also cleaned up the wiring a little bit more.

Obviously the DP will come off before installation but this is how it sits tonight. :mrgreen:





Some of the wiring work that was done.



Tomorrow I'm off to Snap to pick up some stuff that should complete my parts list just for dropping in. I'm sure theres something else I'm forgetting. Always is lol. Also buying serpentine belt, cleaning intake manifolds and running as much vac line as I can before dropping it in!!! Getting a little bit more excited now.

Thanks

-Nick-
 

dok33

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Lookin good! I would also recommend removing the turbo/exhaust manifold before dropping it in. There's not much side to side space with 'em on there and you may end up banging them up.
 

XofXtimeX

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Alright will do! Plus I still need to wrap it. I still need to have the manifold re-welded yet again however the shop doesn't want to do it unless its in the car which is understandable.

Thanks man!

Off to snap for parts.

-Nick-
 

XofXtimeX

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I had a question about the fuel lines.

How would I be running them if I'm using the stock 2JZ fuel pressure regulator? Would I be using any of the lines off of the 7M?

Thanks!

-Nick-
 

dok33

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You'd probably need to do something with the 7M feed line, I don't think the 2j one will work. I ended up just using the driftmotion fuel pulsation dampner bypass hose. I think Scott did some hacking on his lines to make them work.
 

XofXtimeX

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Okay so take the the feedline from the 7M and see if it matches the input for the 2JZ Rail? hrm...

Thanks man

-Nick-
 

dok33

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Found a PM from him:
"On my old setup, I took the 7M feed line, cut it off so it's just a hose, then I took the banjo fitting off my 2JZGE fuel rail feed line, and I shoved that into the hose:naughty:"

Just be sure you clamp the sucker on there well, prolly be ok...
 

XofXtimeX

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Okay I think I figured something out for the fuel setup... I'll let you know what it is if it works. ;)

-Nick-
 

dok33

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Opposite of what I'd do, I've been showing everyone what doesn't work :biglaugh:
 

XofXtimeX

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Well it involves some... Jimmy Rigging. Let's leave it at that. :)

Well until i figure out if it works or not. If it works than its a solution to people doing this build who don't want to buy any extra stuff to make this fuel system work. Using a mix of 7M and 2JZ components.

-Nick-
 

XofXtimeX

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So I decided to mock stuff up today.

BTW I think the weight of the engine on the mounts... The solid mounts that I've got can move around right now with very little effort. I really hope those mounts will work.

So here's muh pictures:







Thanks for looking.

BTW how difficult would it be to change that A/C line after the car is all buttoned up?

Thanks!

-Nick-