1jz swap...soarer automatic

jkendall86

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I have a couple of issues with my swap I'd like to get some help with...yes, I've searched and studied.

1989 original auto turbo, swapped with 1jz and soarer auto trans with harness. Harness was sent to a reputable, well known merchant for adaption to chassis. My ma70 chassis has abs but the harness and trans do not. I replaced the electric rear speed sensor on the trans with the mechanical one from the removed trans. The trans does not seem to shift into od.

I have the od off light blinking and the abs light both come on once the car gets to about 25-30 mph. I have attempted to get codes, but the diag block does not have the tt port. I am pretty sure both lights are due to a missing speed sensor but I don't know where to add it to the trans or get the signal from another source. I'd like to get the abs to work, but I would accept it not working but I would like the od to work.

My other issue is a code 13. I have replaced the crank sensor and both cam sensors are within spec. I have also properly replaced the shielded wiring for all three sensors.

Other than these dash lights, the car seems to run and drive great. Short of just removing the dash lights, where should I look to find solutions

Oh, and yes I have looked at the tsrm and followed testing procedures.
 

hvyman

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You would need the rear speed sensor on the trans for the abs to work. Not sure if the trans you have had a little plug that you can pop off and add the sensor or not.

Also when you remove the speedo sensor and added the mechanical speedo gear. How?
 

jkendall86

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There was an electronic speedo gear that I removed and replaced it with the mechanical gear driven one from my mkiii trans, it fit right in...ad for the speed sensor, right below the speedometer gear is a two wire plug with yellow and black wires that is plugged into the rest of the trans harness.

contact me via text...503-930-7268
 

jkendall86

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My speedo works fine...it's the stock mechanical one from the mkiii

contact me via text...503-930-7268
 

jkendall86

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Update...Swapped out old cam sensors for new...Still have the code...To review, that's new cam, crank wiring and sensors...Still have code 13...Seems to run just fine...Light concerns me, and drives me crazy...
 

destrux

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The speed sensor in the gauge cluster will provide a good signal for the ECU (trans ecu is part of the soarer engine ecu of course) and ABS. You just need to tap into it.

The Soarer ECU won't idle properly without that speed signal either. I used an auto trans soarer 1JZ in my 87' with a manual trans behind it and I had to run that speed signal to the ECU anyway or it would idle low and stall when rolling up to a stop. For the same reason, you also can't clip the speed signal wire to bypass the 118mph speed cut on an auto trans soarer. You have to run an HKS SLD to ditch the speed cut (and yes, it will stop the trans from going into OD then above 118mph anyway according to what I've read on Soarer Central, so read up on that there if you've got intentions to remove the speed cut).
 

jkendall86

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The speed sensor in the gauge cluster will provide a good signal for the trans and ABS. You just need to tap into it.

The Soarer ECU won't idle properly without that speed signal either. I used an auto trans soarer 1JZ in my 87' with a manual trans behind it and I had to run that speed signal to the ECU anyway or it would idle low and stall when rolling up to a stop. For the same reason, you also can't clip the speed signal wire to bypass the 118mph speed cut on an auto trans soarer. You have to run an HKS SLD to ditch the speed cut.
That's good to hear, thanks for the reply...I seem to have decent idle, a bit high but strong....Will i need to insert the speed sensor into the trans and run the wires to the body plug as well, or will the cluster wire suffice?

contact me via text...503-930-7268
 

hvyman

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If you clip the pink speed sensor wire on a soarer trans is should not speed cut. done to both soarer and chaser ecu,
 

f00g00

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When I had a code 13, the crank and cam sensors were off by a tooth after one rotation of the crank sahft so it looked damn close when they were tdc. Idled good but broke uo above 3000 in boost. This was after a timing bet change by the local mechanics. If you haven't messed with the timing belt then I would look at the wires to all 3, crank and cam sensors. The fault "deviation in G (G1, G2) and NE signal continues for 3 seconds during idling with throttle closed" etc.
Since you are running a custom harness you might have the polarity swapped on one of the cam sensors. Read the wiring from ECU to each plug to determine if this is the case.
 

jkendall86

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When I had a code 13, the crank and cam sensors were off by a tooth after one rotation of the crank sahft so it looked damn close when they were tdc. Idled good but broke uo above 3000 in boost. This was after a timing bet change by the local mechanics. If you haven't messed with the timing belt then I would look at the wires to all 3, crank and cam sensors. The fault "deviation in G (G1, G2) and NE signal continues for 3 seconds during idling with throttle closed" etc.
Since you are running a custom harness you might have the polarity swapped on one of the cam sensors. Read the wiring from ECU to each plug to determine if this is the case.
Thanks for the timing tip...I rewired all three being careful of polarity, but I will check that again....As for the belt, I also have timing at 25° so that seems likely as well....I'll check that again also.

contact me via text...503-930-7268
 

destrux

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That's good to hear, thanks for the reply...I seem to have decent idle, a bit high but strong....Will i need to insert the speed sensor into the trans and run the wires to the body plug as well, or will the cluster wire suffice?

contact me via text...503-930-7268
I don't text sorry.

The speed sensor in the cluster will provide that signal without needing the extra speed sensor in the trans. You need to repin some wires at the body plug to get the signal where it needs to be is all.
 

destrux

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If you clip the pink speed sensor wire on a soarer trans is should not speed cut. done to both soarer and chaser ecu,
Correct it will eliminate the speed cut, but it will also retard the timing and block overdrive as a precaution to protect the automatic trans. So it's a win/lose situation. On my car the timing retard was causing it to idle low, although given some time it will correct that with the idle speed solenoid I found out.
 

jkendall86

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Destrux, thanks for the info on the speed sensor...Curious if you know where to find the wire to repin...Maybe a pic of which one and where it should go...Thanks.
 

destrux

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Destrux, thanks for the info on the speed sensor...Curious if you know where to find the wire to repin...Maybe a pic of which one and where it should go...Thanks.
It's been years since I did my swap. I don't think I have any of the photos anymore, but I do remember that I used the factory 1987 TEWD to find the correct wire color for the speed signal coming from the cluster to the body plugs behind the glove box, and I intercepted it there and repinned it to the engine harness side of the body plug that was connected to the speed sensor that would have been in the auto trans. That wire was pink. To find that wire I had found a translated japanese soarer JZZ30 wiring diagram. I lost this diagram somehow, which is a shame since it was hard to find. Hopefully it's still around the internet somewhere. You can also just find the pink speed sensor wire at the abandon transmission plugs and use a test light to find it in the body plugs. On mine, being an 87, none of the Soarer harnesses body plugs would connect to my car, so I had to install the body plugs from my old 7M engine harness to the soarer harness anyway, so the whole wiring of the car was a headache. If I did it all again I'd have gone with an 89+ chassis and a 1JZ from a Supra (actually that's a lie I'd do the 2JZ from a MKIV).
 

jkendall86

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It's been years since I did my swap. I don't think I have any of the photos anymore, but I do remember that I used the factory 1987 TEWD to find the correct wire color for the speed signal coming from the cluster to the body plugs behind the glove box, and I intercepted it there and repinned it to the engine harness side of the body plug that was connected to the speed sensor that would have been in the auto trans. That wire was pink. To find that wire I had found a translated japanese soarer JZZ30 wiring diagram. I lost this diagram somehow, which is a shame since it was hard to find. Hopefully it's still around the internet somewhere. You can also just find the pink speed sensor wire at the abandon transmission plugs and use a test light to find it in the body plugs. On mine, being an 87, none of the Soarer harnesses body plugs would connect to my car, so I had to install the body plugs from my old 7M engine harness to the soarer harness anyway, so the whole wiring of the car was a headache. If I did it all again I'd have gone with an 89+ chassis and a 1JZ from a Supra (actually that's a lie I'd do the 2JZ from a MKIV).
Thanks for all who replied..abs light fixed...replaced the tailshaft with one from the mkiii, used the 32 tooth pickup wheel, used the mkiii speed sensor and ran the three wires to the b3 plug...

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