1JZ-GTE VVT-i Wiring

tye-bo

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I just got done with my 1JZ-GTE VVT-I harness, this wiring “how to” is based on that both harnesses are manual transmissions and my car is a pre-89 (yellow ECU plugs). My 1JZ harness had all of the body plugs cut off, so I’ll be basing the wire info on the body side by the wire color. My engine came out of a Chaser JXZ100, but the Mark II, and Cresta should share the same ECU, engine and harness. Use these instructions at your own discretion, and as a guide I have not installed this harness yet. I’m not to be held responsible if you wire it up wrong, or if anything happens based on these instructions.

First, I used these two links to get the ECU pin-outs and body plug pin-outs.

http://homepage.mac.com/rib_feast/jzx100/JZX100ecu.pdf
http://www.supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=50

I didn’t have the TRAC ECU or the plugs, so I didn’t use any of the pins shown for the TRAC.
Most of the connections that need to be made to the ECU from the body go through the “G” and “H” connectors. I had a spare 7M harness and it made life very easy, if you have one pull the C1 connector and all the circuits that go with it. Mine was in good enough shape that I could use the entire circuit. This way of wiring retains the factory fuel pump relay (using mine to control 12v fuel pump relay for the Walbro), EFI relay, and Circuit Opening relay. It also eliminates cruise control, TEMS and the Super monitor. If you see anything that is incorrect or anything that I missed please let me know. I apologize that I don’t have any pictures of the connectors, but there are pictures in the links above.

Connector “G” – 28 pin

Pin 9 – IGSW -> B1 pin 16
Pin 12 – Used to enable the speed limiter, not necessary to connect
Pin 13 – CCO (Diagnostic connector)
Pin 14 – BATT -> C1 pin 1
Pin 21 – Defogger Idle up -> M1 pin 10
Pin 22 – B+ -> B1 pin 9
Pin 25 – Stop Lamp Switch -> 1L pin 10
Pin 28 – Head Light Idle up (Headlight idle up for 7M harness, unsure if it is the same for the 1JZ) -> B1 pin 19

Connector “H” – 16 pin

Pin 2 – MREL (EFI main relay coil positive) -> C1 pin 2
Pin 3 – MIL (check engine light) -> M1 pin 8
Pin 4 – FPR (Fuel pump relay) -> B1 pin 8
Pin 8 – FPU VSV
Pin 10 – FC (Circuit opening relay) -> B1 pin 6
Pin 13 – PRG VSV
Pin 14 – ABV VSV

Connector B1 – 22 pin

Pin 1 – A/C VSV
Pin 5 – FP Check connector -> Blue-Red (Not necessary depending on how your fuel pump is wired)
Pin 6 – FC (Circuit opening relay) -> H pin 10
Pin 8 – Fuel pump relay -> H pin 4
Pin 9 – Circuit opening relay power (Splice for Black-Red wires, power for ISCV, all VSVs, and B on the Diagnotsic connector)
Pin 12 – Starter (Splice off of this wire for connector J pin 13)
Pin 16 – IGSW -> G pin 9
Pin 17 – From IG2 spliced to Black-White wires, power for injectors, coils, igniter and etc.
Pin 18 – Theft deterrent horn
Pin 19 – Headlight Idle up (see note above)-> G pin 28


Connector “M1” – 10 pin

Pin 1 – Reverse lights -> Red-Blue wire
Pin 2 – Power to reverse light switch -> Red-Black wire
Pin 4 – Tachometer from Ignitor -> Green-Black
Pin 6 – Ground to Intake Manifold -> Brown
Pin 7 – Oil pressure sensor -> Pink
Pin 8 – MIL -> H pin 3
Pin 9 – Water Temp -> White-Green
Pin 10 – Defogger -> M1 pin 10

Happy Wiring! :icon_bigg
 
Last edited:

tye-bo

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Now that its been running for a few months, I thought I'd clarify a few things. First, this way of wiring, retains the EVAP system, ABS, and cruise control. I found out afterward that I was given some mis-information about the cruise control and found that since the entire cruise control system is on the body side of the wiring, that it works as originally intended. Second, IF you use an A/T ECU, you must ground the NSW circuit, pin J14, this puts the ECU into thinking that it is in neutral all of the time, which so far I haven't found any problems with. I've tested with it both in "N" and in "D" and there seems to be no power difference between the two of them. If you have any questions, please let me know.
 

hvyman

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Have any pictures or anything?

Nice write up.
 

Rafa

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Just wanna know where to connect pin8,pin13,pin14 on connector "H"
Thank you..
 

tye-bo

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They should all be on the harness, you will have to use a meter to find the correct wires that they go to. There will be two connectors coming out of the plastic housing for the wire harness that routes through the intake manifold. If my memory serves me, the brown connector is for the FPU, the blue one is for the PRG (purge for EVAP), and then the other blue one on the other side of the engine will be for the ABV (factory blow off valve VSV). If you perform the BOV mod on the factory BOV, it helps the turbo feel more linear and is a lot more fun to drive, and if you do the mod then you don't need the ABV VSV. The PRG VSV isn't necessary, but I like all my factory systems to be operational, and the FPU VSV closes off the intake manifold vacuum, so it doesn't decrease the fuel pressure during cranking. If you need, I can take pictures of those VSV connectors.
 

tye-bo

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Rafa... Please read what I'm writing, you are getting confused on one thing, and that is the order of the pin numbering. :nono: For the sake of the community, I'm posting the PM string so no one else will be confused.


Rafa said:
tye-bo said:
Rafa said:
tye-bo said:
Rafa said:
tye-bo said:
Rafa said:
tye-bo said:
Rafa said:
tye-bo said:
Rafa said:
Hi i have a question about you wiring where does the connector G pin 13 - CCO goes??
And the pin 25 stop lamp switch it goes to 1L pin 10 but i cant seems to find that 1L connector...
Thanks you...
I didn't hook up the CCO, and I haven't had any issues with drivability. The tail light input is just an idle up for when the head lights arei on, it is unnecessary because the MAF will automatically adjust for the extra load on the engine.
Ohh i see thanks..
One more question how about on the connector H
Pin 8-FPU vsv?
Im kinda confuse about it do i have to connect it to pin 3?
Or i dont have to connect it? Same for the pin13 PRG vsv and pin14 ABV vsv...
Thank you...
That vsv increases fuel pressure for starting, it isn't necessary but it helps. PRG is the purge solenoid for evap, not necessary either. The ABV vsv is for the blow off valve, but if you do the bob mod to it you do.t need it either. I hooked all of those up, because I like all the factory systems to work, and hate the check engine light on. Also, these questions would be good to post on the thread because someone else may have these questions.
Oh cool thanks...
Do you know where i have to hook it up?
I like to run it too and dont like the engine light on
Thanks alot for the help..
No, they won't turn the light on, but beware of the SPD input on the ECM, without it, it will turn the check engine light on. If you have an A/T ECM then you can hook the SPD wire to the SP2 terminal of the ECM, and it won't turn the light on, unless you rev it without the vehicle moving.
Ohh one more question on connector H pin 2 u put the MIL for the engine light on the pin out for the ecu connector H pin 2 is for the FPU?? Kinda confuse on this one...
Sorry, pin 2 is the MIL, and pin 8 is the FPU.
My mistake i mean pin 3 is the fpu and pin 8 is for the efi- trac ecu...
Im still confuse...it might have that you pin outs are for the m/t and mine is a/t and its different..?
I had an A/T ECM and the pin outs for these things are the same. How are you counting the pins? you need to be look at the front of the connector (the side that plugs into the ECM) and counting left to right starting in the upper left.
Im just getting confuse on all the ecu pin out out there ...cuz they have 3 diffrent ecu pin outs..
By any chance ur ecu # is 89661-22800?
Thanks..

So, First off I have the BOTH ECMs (89661-22790 M/T and 89661-22800 A/T), and just so there is no confusion here is a picture of the one I was using.

IMAG0740.jpg

Everything I've written follows the normal Toyota numbering system. That means that looking at the face of the connector (female side, that plugs into the ECM) your numbering starts from upper left and goes to bottom right, just like how you read a book. Example time:

IMAG0735.jpg
IMAG0738.jpg

So that means when you are looking at the ECM connector (or the connector when it is plugged into the ECM) the numbering starts from the upper right and goes to the bottom left. Opposite to how you read a book. Another example:

IMAG0734E.jpg

Ok, so no we move to the pin locations, the pins you are looking for are the exact same on both the M/T and the A/T ECM. The only pin locations that change are the A/T solenoid controls, obviously the M/T doesn't have them, the NSW terminal which the M/T doesn't have, and the SPD terminal on the M/T G pin 10 moves to SP2+ on the A/T I pin 9. But for the benefit of everyone, I will go through connector H pin by pin, using the numbering system I just described, with both the M/T and the A/T pins.

Connector H

Pin# M/T A/T
1 NEO NEO (not used)
2 MREL MREL (used to turn on the EFI relay)
3 W W (check engine light, MIL)
4 FPR FPR (fuel pump relay, switched from high to low speed)
5 TE1 TE1 (on the diagnostic connector)
6 Not Used by either
7 EFI+ EFI+ (traction control, not used)
8 FPU FPU (fuel pressure VSV, used to increase the fuel pressure on start up)
9 FAIL FAIL (traction control, not used)
10 FC FC (circuit opening relay)
11 EFI- EFI- (traction control, not used)
12 Not used by either
13 PRG PRG (EVAP system, purge solenoid)
14 ABV ABV (BOV VSV, not used if you modify the BOV to work properly)
15 Not used by either
16 Not used by either

Does this clear things up?
 

Rafa

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Yes sir...thanks alot everything is clear now i just wanna double check if the ecu i got and the pin out are same...looks like we have the same ecu so everything is good now...
Thank you for your help....
 

Rafa

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One last question try serching for that bob mod on the bov but no luck...do you have a link for it?
Thanks..
 

tye-bo

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Lol, sorry, I fat fingered a key, its the BOV mod.

Basically what you do is get a drill and a 1/8" brass NPT fitting from home depot or any other plumbing store, and drill out the open atmosphere port on the BOV. Once it's been drilled then screw in the port and plumb it back to the intake manifold, disconnect the line that goes from the pressure side of the turbo to the VSV, and put it straight to the BOV. It's kind of hard to explain, I'll see if I can take pictures of it without removing it.