We had done most of the other things you just mentioned, but didn't even know this hose existed until it burst.Yep.
I fought with that one not too long ago.
Also replaced the thermostat and thermostat housing to cylinder head gasket, and water pump and a pile of other things coolant related.
Not a drop since!
Once you have a couple coolant leaks from crappy hoses and old stuff you start to go overboard and replace everything.
Don't tell me there are 5 more of these!!! lolWe've all had to deal with Bypass Hose #6. It's annoying.
Thanks for the tip! I'm looking at the site and it's out of stock, but looks as simple as getting a connector and connecting a few wires, plus insulating everything with electrical tape. If it fails again I might liberate my old connector and make one of those myself.It is always a nice surprise to find Supra's in the junkyard but also sad at times too since it is one less Supra on the road. If your replacement yellow box fails and do not want to cut your wiring up to bypass it, you might like the assembly that yotaconnectors makes. It looks to be out of stock but last time I was that site it was $8 plus shipping when I bought mine.
Thanks man!! There's definitely an interesting history to this car, but at this point I have a title, it's registered and insured, so I won't spend more time trying to figure it out.Just caught up and read through the entire thread, and what a cool project. Great work on figuring out all the issues and glad you got to keep the car.
And as for the hassles with the VIN, the first thing that occurred to me was the fact that you mentioned it was imported from Canada, so it would be interesting to know exactly when it came to the US. But that would probably explain some of the mystery as to why US DMV and Toyota databases don't have much or anything on it. Seems like the US owner(s) weren't on the up and up.
I'm curious about junk yards in Russia. Is there a network of junk yards that speak to each other and trade parts like there is in America?Time for good news/bad news! The good news is that we cleaned up and painted the underside of the new hood and put it on the car. So in total amount of rust on the supra, we are going in the right direction. The bad news is that the junkyard we got it from is one of these where they don't let you pull your own parts, and whoever pulled the hood out didn't realize that the struts are screwed in, not just popped into the ball socket. So they yanked really hard to pull it out and bent the hood in the process. And naturally we didn't notice this until a week later when we went to install it. So as a result, one side is lower than it should be and I'm annoyed, but overall it could be much worse.
There is everything as elsewhere. There are not many Mk3 disassemblies, you can buy from Vladivostok and bring it to anywhere in the country.I'm curious about junk yards in Russia.
I'll do my best explaining. It was always a tight fit compared to the Koyo rads. My fan always sat really close to the radiator core, but never close enough to impact it. It worked fine for me for 7 years until I started losing coolant from a spot I couldnt find. One day I noticed that it was leaking from the core itself and fan and core had matching damage. My hypothesis is that when the engine revs increased, the fan would flex outward bringing it closer to the radiator, so perhaps it was just a matter of time before they would contact each other. Mishimoto refused to warranty it, so I went back to a stock replacement after that.Just curious why your fan hit the radiator. Can you elaborate, please?
Could definitely be the coolant cap plug on the coolant rail next to the manifold. I wouldn't assume your radiator is fine just because water flows through. My original radiator before replacing with the mishimoto radiator, reacted this way. Turns out it was partially blocked.Thank you guys for all the input. Eventually I do think I'll go mishimoto when it's time to upgrade the radiator. Plot twist, I don't think that's the problem.
Earlier today we opened the radiator hoses and flushed both sides with a garden hose. The engine side was clean right away, but radiator side took about a minute of rusty water before it was clean too. After that we closed things up, filled with water, bled the system, and took it for a drive. Took a spirited 5 minute drive and the temp gauge was already at 210-220. We opened the hood after the drive and there was steam coming out of the engine bay. To be more precise, it was coming out from the back of the block, exhaust manifold side. There's a rubber hose line back there, as well as a solid metal coolant line. One of those is probably blocked, but it's not going to be a good time getting back there. And the exhaust manifold will probably have to come off. Anyone have an upgraded exhaust manifold for sale?
PS did not do a compression test, because of obvious smoking problems.