1300 Kg Track SUPRA project

dubsupra209

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WOW! This is really coming along Josbeat.
On the Time Attack Forum http://www.timeattackforums.com/forums/aero-dynamics/4604-flat-floor-ideal-height-introduction-my-mk2-golf-aero.html, I read a build in the Aero section, where they added side skirts using angle aluminum and screwing on vinyl so that the air that is split at the front stays under there all the way to the diffuser. It is an interesting read. I'd like to hear your opinion on that set-up.
That's the same aero lotus used in the 70s in f1. I been thinking of doing that on one of my supras one day as well
 

Van

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Hi Josbeat,
Please describe where on the car is the "the wishbone adjustment hole" that helped solve the problem of negative camber adjustment? Thanks
too much camber fixed doing the wishbone adjustment hole biggers, now it is going from -1,5º to -7º and the most important is the roll center perfect with the chassis set at 80 mm of the ground.

today : fuel tank tested and coolant system prepared to be filled with the new special Evans water.
 

josbeat

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Van after replacing the balljoint the camber was too large so to correct it the standar adjusters on the supra wasnt suficient to reduce it so with the help of a air tool I made the elliptical holes biggers to get more adjustment to reduce the negative camber.
so if you look the last photos of my supra in Nurburgring you can see the minimun camber I can get . that is the minimun. I think is -3,5º or -4º , I need to check it well because the tool i have is not acurate.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FA&P=4
 

Van

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O.K. This is very helpful.
Van after replacing the balljoint the camber was too large so to correct it the standar adjusters on the supra wasnt suficient to reduce it so with the help of a air tool I made the elliptical holes biggers to get more adjustment to reduce the negative camber.
so if you look the last photos of my supra in Nurburgring you can see the minimun camber I can get . that is the minimun. I think is -3,5º or -4º , I need to check it well because the tool i have is not acurate.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FA&P=4
 

josbeat

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Van I found where to get out 60 or 65 kgr from my car .
also I been on a track last weeked and now the supra is neutral chassis , not under not over, really nice.
it looks like the front camber is maybe half degree more thant it needs and at the back needs another half more, looking the tyres after all day running is what i will try next time.

wehre to reduce the weight is:

front brakes in carbon-ceramic -15 or -20 kg
door panels -5 kg
policarbonate glasses -15 kg
no windows regulators -5 kg
no heater box completelly included the blower -5 kg
replace the front lights with a fixed light kit I have -4 kg
new clutch quarter master 5,5 triple disc -5 kg
and removing the sliders from the seat -6kg

total? dont know exactly but a lot
offcourse I will ad few more because maybe I will put another reinforcement on the roll cage and maybe a seat coolers...
another 5 kg will be to remove the electric power steering pump but .... maybe wil be better to move it to the midlle of the car or maybe at the back in the trunk.

also with the water-methanol we can reduce the size of the intercooler and with the 2jz I have the coolant radiator from 3 rows to 2 rows will be another 3 or 4 kg less.

I need to know what do you think.
 
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Van

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These are also on my list of improvements, excluding the front lights. I've prioritized my improvements for a new lighter clutch and brakes, then start doing all the rest of the improvements as time permits. You'll notice a lot less roll and pitch after relieving all the glass weight from up top of the car. I notice it right away. I didn't have to replace springs or sway bars as I had planned.
The big weight loss you made to the car was going to the carbon doors, no?
I also like your solution to the problem of a flat bottom on our cars... Brilliant!
 

josbeat

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Van the flat botton is night and day but also with the front splitter is one the best thing i did .
I will post you the heights of the car front and back because for the firts time last time in the track the supra was totally neutral!! and lot of guys talking about how well the supra goes
 

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josbeat

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where you bought the plexi glasses? or did you mad it your self?
some people toldme that is not to difficult..
 

Van

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Buy polycarbonate plastic with a scratch resistance. Use the hot air gun to mold in to shape, cut to size and apply window adhesive to seal and then fasten it to the frame. Several hour job. I had to use blow-out bars, as required over here with polycarbonate windows on the rear hatch...
 

josbeat

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27 kg lower with some new bits

new manifold 5 kg lightter
new ceramic brakes 15 kg less
new Tilton Clutch 7 kg less
also more CASTER at the front moving the lower balljoint

some more weight saving coming



 

GC89

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Mind blown........more pics and info on the brake setup please
 

Van

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Brand name on those brakes, please!
27 kg lower with some new bits

new manifold 5 kg lightter
new ceramic brakes 15 kg less
new Tilton Clutch 7 kg less
also more CASTER at the front moving the lower balljoint

some more weight saving coming

 

josbeat

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the brand of the rotors are wilwood but the rest is a PB-brakes kit I have before , the callipers and floating hats.
the hats are not exactly exactly the right ones but I think they will work, the hats I bought from wilwood arent correct so I will try with the ones I have .
I am waiting to see if wilwood want to make a custom Hats for the Supra but ofcourse it will be posible if some more people want to buy it, some companys can do it like Portelfield brakes.
the price is high , i bought the rotors from Summitracing at better price but still at 2000 USD each.
they are the sheapest ceramic rotors I found .
the pads I bought is the Pagid rsc1 compound , another 300 EUR the front set for a AP-Racing callipers.
also I will use a Ti heat shield plates I am using now.

that is the ultimate brake kit for racing and street with out dusting at all, with out cold or hot braking problems and with out brake noise, AMEN of the weight reduction and life wear but not cheap.

the callipers have a radial mount with a very strong well made adapter, the parts can be buy from PB-Brakes separately



we can see like the hat is not perfect but like is floating it can be used.
 

josbeat

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Yes that is true.
I been thinking if yes or not about a 6 month but now i am happy with the decision.
 

SeeUSmile

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I need to say what was the cause of my 7M broke
It was a piece of paper blocking one of the oil escavenge line
that was the cause way the oil pressure going lower on a high revs beacuse all oil went into the engine flouding it and leaving the oil tank empty.
now the same system on the 2jz is working really well.

I really love the last 7M build I did but those things happens when a frinends non mecanics want to help.

R.I.P. 7M
paper??? how did that get in there? :O

Really liking the C/SiC brake setup you got there :D any idea what they were temperature rated at?
 

josbeat

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my friend put a pieces of paper blocking all holes from the dirty come inside and forget one.... is the life .

the ceramic disc no need any temp to work , there are lineal from cold cold to the red with less pedal efforth which is perfect for me because Im not using a brakebooster.
is a good idea to have a brake cooling system but is the calliper what must be cooled well.
I will report how it work and temperatures ectr as soon as i can test it on the track.
 

josbeat

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now i am working on the aligment setup
but at the moment dont know what happend because the car feels dancing from the back with that setup.



 

grimnebula

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Hi i have a supra turbo for sale car been sitting but is all complete all stock it need to be finish year 1990...original rims color charcoal grey with the covertible top...
 

Aleo24

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Hi from Australia, alot of the guys here have been talking about your build. Awesome car man and congrats on the new setup after the issues you had. I see you mounted your infinity in the engine bay, any reason you did this instead of having it in the cabin? I just setup my own AEM infinity on my 2jz-a70. Very impressed with the system.
 

josbeat

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Hi from Australia, alot of the guys here have been talking about your build. Awesome car man and congrats on the new setup after the issues you had. I see you mounted your infinity in the engine bay, any reason you did this instead of having it in the cabin? I just setup my own AEM infinity on my 2jz-a70. Very impressed with the system.
Hello ! nice to know that, wow! Australia jejeje

at the moment the ECU is inside the engine bay because it was easy on that moment to put it there and buil the wires but as soon as posible it will be moved to inside.

my engine is the VVti but if you need the MAP file only you need to tell me how you want it.

thanks for the coments allways we need it to look foward.

any way I have a good news

http://www.supramania.com/photobucket/post-2058709-1-2._zps8qtb0y7p.jpg

firts position PRO-C class last saturday TimeAttack championship.

https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/t31.0-8/12010667_1735793543318552_4352089618806709614_o.jpg
here we are testing the new brakes with a copilot
ofcourse I got the best time alone in the car jajajaja
 
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josbeat

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on that victory I had problems with the brakes and the engine ,it wont give more than 250 hp boosting at only 7 Psi and no more than 6000 rpm but now it is fixed .


 
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josbeat

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here is a video where we can see the supra in the Monteblanco circuit but a day after the race trying to solve the engine problem but i was cooling down the brakes ectr before go back to the pitline so dont spect to see the car very fast ok?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyCtRupEiGA
 

josbeat

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here is the Time Attack day just the firts two laps to check if all is ok...... but not all, after two laps the front right brake engaged due a tilt on the new Pagid pads so imposible to follow .
after we got to cold down the brakes we replaced the pagid pads for the old Carbonetic pads and got the victory but....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9t556djzvz952f9/FILE0006.MOV?dl=0
 

josbeat

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after got the desired camber and roll center and after reduce the front axel weight with the new brake discs is time to put the upper arms to get the desired caster and also less distace between axels.
but never twisting the lower-arm bushings.

still to see how it goes .

also i need to relocate the gearbox cooler,work on how to get more traction on the exit of the corners and still lowering the weight.
 
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josbeat

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ahhh you're using the beech upper arms now?
yes they are well made but heavier than the originals
two of the original upper arms weight as same as one of the beech one , 5.5 lbs is what i added to the car but remember, i removed something like 50 lbs so ....
 

SeeUSmile

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yes they are well made but heavier than the originals
two of the original upper arms weight as same as one of the beech one , 5.5 lbs is what i added to the car but remember, i removed something like 50 lbs so ....
Wow. I guess that's the weight advantage of forged aluminum, it's a shame we can't just simply replace the ball joints on them :(. True I suppose that much shouldn't be too much un-sprung mass for what you already removed.
 

josbeat

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i forgót to include the weight removed from the exhaust manifold was another 11 lbs jejeje and still have the rear original glass
and the electric windows and door pannels and....
this saturday i will go to the aligment shop, i am lucky they let me to use it for free and I can play with it but with Caster maybe over 10º will be better to keep the same camber or less? or more?
 

josbeat

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