tri strut bar fittment issues

Apr 1, 2005
254
0
0
WA
i just got the CP Racing tri strut bar and it looks awesome. problem is, it doesnt seem to fit. it is about 1/2" too narrow tower to tower. my car is on jack stands right now so maybe thats the problem. anyone else notice their strut towers bowing away from each other when they jack up the car? i guess i could just put the wheels back on and drop the car back to the ground to find out for myself...
 

westonboege

New Member
May 25, 2005
134
0
0
42
providence RI
actually i have heard that you are supposed to have the car up in the air when you put on strut tower bars.. dont know why it wouldnt fit though...
 

Ne0z

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
200
0
0
38
Burnsville, Minnesota, United States
^^DO NOT DO THAT!

I was told specifically not to do that by many people...

I have the tri-strut bar and it fits perfectly... u do however have to modify the brake booster cable as it interferes with the bar... im not sure why it wouldnt fit from tower to tower... i know it has trouble reaching the firewall though
 

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
3,061
0
36
Ohio
I would put my money on the fact that its up on stands for now. I do not see any noticeable difference, however, when you put it back down you'll see for sure how flexable teh chassis actually is without a bar if it bolts right up.
 
Apr 1, 2005
254
0
0
WA
well, its now off the stands but i dont see much difference. it was on stands for awhile so i'll let it sit on its wheels for a day to see if it settles at all. it looks like i can force it on but i dont want to do that. i also dont see a problem with the brake booster cable but the egr valve thing is definately in the way. wont be much trouble at all to mount the valve a little lower though.
 
Apr 1, 2005
254
0
0
WA
well, i ended up just forcing it on. it actually didnt take much force to do so im no longer worried about it. but once i got it bolted to the towers, i realized there was a small (maybe 1/4") gap from the bar to the firewall, like someone else mentioned here. its not a huge deal as i'll just cut a plate to fit between the two. i'll get some pictures up after i finish with the new oil/cooling setup and get it all back together.
 
Apr 1, 2005
254
0
0
WA
the cpracing bar is built differently from regular straight bars. by tying each tower to the firewall in a triangular pattern, it does much more to stop chassis flex than the regular style of tying one weak strut tower to anouther weak strut tower.
http://www.cpracing.ca/ check it out if you've never seen it before.
 

siman

Lifetime Ban
Mar 31, 2005
1,371
0
0
39
Murfreesboro, TN
www.cardomain.com
Strut bars are for lateral support ( sideways torquing of the frame and suspension hats while taking corners).....

really the rear firewall connection just keeps the bar in place and also adds to a total structural rigitity of the bar itself.

I think its a great idea.

M's and Carbing ( honda tuners for the most part) have lots of strut bars that connect to the firewall.....

They obviously know something about making a chassis stiffer....

-Jonathan
 

siman

Lifetime Ban
Mar 31, 2005
1,371
0
0
39
Murfreesboro, TN
www.cardomain.com
You seriously have to be joking right?

You are saying that the Doluck RXB does nothing to stiffen the chassis flex from the targa top on or off?

You are off your rocker.

That "side to side shimmy" flex is just natural on all cars. Our frames are basically spot welded then seam glued together...not the optimal choice for a stiff chassis.

Strut bars take the LATERAL ( side to side shimmy) forces exerted on individual shock towers out by connecting the two shock towers TOGETHER thus canceling out each shock tower moving at its own rythem while dancing down a backroad so to speak.



Another part that you are completely dillusional at is this:
They have to support the weight and the forces from the front half of the car that go through the suspension for decades without bending.

That is the probelm, there is alot of weight up there, and uneven weight when dispursed on individual shock towers tend to wobble different directions. This can give an unstable feel to the cars overal right charectoristics and the way it litterally TURNS INTO a corner.

Flex= loss of traction, and loss of steering angle and camber in some instances.

I hope you understand just a tad bit of what I just posted....but by far you seem to be way off key.
Best wishes in suspension knowledge,

Jonathan Mann
 
Apr 1, 2005
254
0
0
WA
well, i have to disagree with both of you, but semen is closser to the mark. our car has double wishbone front suspension. this means all forces dealing with the front suspension live on the front sub-frame. in a honda, it is totally different. most hondas have macpherson strut front suspension. meaning they only have the lower A arm. the strut acts as the upper arm. this means, if the strut tower flexs in any direction, the suspension geometry will change giving you a sloppy feeling. a regular strut bar can help a car with macpherson strut somewhat. but with double wishbone, like ours, a regular strut bar will do squat because our strut towers have nothing to do with suspension geometry. they are simply a mounting point for the shock. the cpracing bar helps with the tortional body flex our cars are often subject to, not the sloppy steering most old FF's have.
 

Ne0z

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
200
0
0
38
Burnsville, Minnesota, United States
WTF r u smoking?! u cant FLEX the CP Racing strut bar... lol... this thing is the most solid bar i've come across, the different from normal is night and day as well...

I have tried to flex this bar and it didnt budge at all... ugh... ppl get ur facts straight... if anyone even read his post he said he hardly had to force it on at all... meaning it probably fit fine but most people will try one side... then the other instead of both at the same time
 

siman

Lifetime Ban
Mar 31, 2005
1,371
0
0
39
Murfreesboro, TN
www.cardomain.com
For go sakes I am not reading that /\

PLEASE USE PROPER PUNCTUATION.

and for the love of God, put some spacing in between 2 or 3 senteces to keep us from going crazy.....


-J.Mann

PS: Its SIMANN ( S-I- Mann....not semen ugh.) Long story short I had a Civic Si....my last name is Mann.....the name stuck Si-Mann :aigo:
 

siman

Lifetime Ban
Mar 31, 2005
1,371
0
0
39
Murfreesboro, TN
www.cardomain.com
projectsupra said:
Well this is my last post on the subject since you obviously don't get it, and thus you never will. I'm not repeating myself so if you want to keep arguing with yourself that's fine with me. YES, the RXB doesn NOTHING. If you were me, you would have cut apart numerous A70's, you would have seen the massive boxed brace that runs the width of the car no more than 2" from where the RXB mounts. This brace is welded into the car in far more than two points and thus is infinitely stronger. How else do I know, because I've built one. I wasted an entire day first building one from 1 3/4" cage tubing and then later trying to make it actually stiffen the chassis because it did nothing in its stock form. It's pointless and redundant, a marketing scam. :3d_frown: If you want to stop targa flex you fill the HUGE hole in the roof, connect the mounting points in a way so the two halves can not move independently in any direction, such as my X-brace. Either that or double up the frame rails underneath the car and leave the weak point in the roof. Now the side-side shimmy is not a natural thing, this is when the front end moves in unison, if your car shimmies any noticable amount to affect the suspension then you have other problems. The gaps in my hood and fenders are around 1/8", by your reasoning the front corners should have the paint chipped away because the whole front half moves from size to side and the hood will not move, right? Why not rig up my dial gauge to one of the fender ends and mount the other end to the firewall and actually measure this so called flex. I don't know where you get this stuff, flexing strut towers will not change steering angle unless your car is exceptionally low and you get ALOT of bump steer, even then you are not going to notice 0.1* of steering change while you're going into a corner. Also screaminglemon is absolutely right, dual A-arms mean the towers can flex all they want and as long as the subframe holds its shape there is no change in camber or any other suspension geometry (besides the minuscule amount of bump steer described). No one is arguing with you about how a normal STB works so I don't see why you keep repeating it. What is your point with the spot weld comment? Yes the chassis is spot welded together, so what. Welding makes metal hard and brittle, welds do not flex they break. So if spot welding was in any way weak all of the welds would have surely broken after 15 years of abuse. What do I know though, I haven't been welding and modding the suspension end of my A70 for over six years, I haven't tried and built parts 99% of members haven't even heard of outside of Japan, I haven't experimented with every kind of geometry change I can think of so I guess that means that I know nothing about anything and because I don't automatically jump on the bandwagon and simply repeat what I've heard over the years. :icon_roll Ne0z, I apologize if the bar can not be bent as easily as he made it sound. I work with heavy wall 1" steel tube many times and if that's what it is then it can be bent by hand if you have 1.5'-2' of leverage on it. I wouldn't have much to complain about if there was a bar directly between the strut towers. :icon_bigg Good luck with your next best comeback siman, I'm sure you'll have one. :biglaugh:



Oh my god, you are so far from the truth.....................

You have been "welding and modding you suspension of your 'A70 for years".....what does it look like now...a blob of metal? I am sure your car doesnt flex anymore...its on centerblocks :nono:

Have you ever taken a piece of steel....

First a long piece of steel plating.....it flexes.
Short pieces of steel? It DOES NOT FLEX....wonder why?

Thats the whole reasoning behind chassis braces. Its adding lateral support to the memebers that do move. And you comment about "why doesnt the paint flake a chip"......that has to be the most narrowminded perplexed question I have ever heard......

Evidentally you have never heard of INNER FENDER BRACES. The fenders are bolted to the chassis....the really dont flex with the car.

Oh and another point, have you ever heard of TORQUE BUBBLES? Whe people auto-x and commenly seen in drag racing....the cars chassi torques because of lack of lateral bracing...the front end twists more off the line than the rear....and bubbles appear on different stressor points of the chassis.

and note How I spaced my sentences for ease of reading.

-J.M.
 

SupraMario

I think it was the google
Mar 30, 2005
3,467
6
38
38
The Farm
hey cut the crap argue like car mechanics not like 3 year olds at each others necks.
now continue.. just try to keep the flaming to a minium, it helps shorten the post.
 

siman

Lifetime Ban
Mar 31, 2005
1,371
0
0
39
Murfreesboro, TN
www.cardomain.com
The guy is saying that our supra's chassis, even if they are 19 years old, dont flex very much...and really dont need strut braces in any location.

Thats about the most far out statement I have ever heard.

There is nothing intellectual to be said, our chassis are old and FLEX horribly compared to todays sports cars.

You evidentally have no experiance with strut braces what so ever.

My $25 ebay brace made a HUGE difference in turn in response. Rear braces are even moreso.

Email Dr.Jonez about his Doluck RXB....it made the targa flex ( with the targa off) non existant! Even MDC motorsports harness bar decreases center chassis flex to nill to NONE even with the targa OFF.

Go search before you start typing your large, heroic statements about your "welded up and tried out" modifications.

Hell, I guess you need to go back in time and tell TRD that the group A race cars they campaigned never needed the strut bars...

-J.M.
 
Apr 1, 2005
254
0
0
WA
just to be clear. i put this bar on to reduce the TORQUE on the front end. not a side-to side shimmy. not suspension geometry problems in corners. i highly doubt there is a side-to-side shimmy in our car but there is most definately a torque flex. i can feel it every time i step on that right-most pedal and i have the chipped paint all along the edges of my hood to prove it.

i agree, the bar would be better if there was the regular straight piece on it, but then if it had that, i guess i would never have gotten the thing on. this is steel, and a hellofalot beefier then the aluminum greddy replica i took off.