Car Only Runs for a Minute.

[YoNkErS87t]

I have some kind of rich condition in my car. I mean rich!!! I put a new set of plugs in start the car and it runs for about a minute or two and stalls out. I pull the plug and blacker than black. While the car is run I can't rev the engine at all. If i touch the gas a little bit the car sounds like it is missing or its chocking. Sounds like it is getting to much gas and it doesn't know what to do with it.

Things i checked:

-I/c piping ( I will go back and double check it again even though i checked really good)

-O2 sensor

-Tps (brand new and recalibrated)

-Afm(its fine b/c my friends car runs fine with it)

-FPR

-All gaskets from the Head up are replaced.

-No codes either

Someone please help. I miss my car.

 

[Supra Blues]

No gasket leaks or anything? I had a big one right at the throttle body and engine wouldn't idle.

Someone mentioned in another thread to check the cold start injector, or maybe just unplug and see what happens.

 

[scottiedawg66]

get a can of carb cleaner, spray arond your intake manifold to ensure no vacuum leaks. HOw did you check ur 02 sensor? That was the culprit when my car ran super rich.


~scott

 

[smagnotta]

It sounds like your O2 sensor is bad. Did you check it as described in the Toyota manual (TSRM)? It has a flowchart of steps.

I am wondering about your air/fuel ratio - is this a complete stock setup or has it been modified?

Check the large, black accordian hose that is right after the AFM - mine had a hole under it and the car would start and then die suddenly.

What about your CPS and your timing? Did you check that yet? It probably is not the cause but you might as well check it.

 

[Sonex2000]

Time for that new engine wire harness you've been talking about

 

[YoNkErS87t]

I just did a complete HG job on the car. The problem started before the HG. It kinda gave me a reason to tear it apart and put a metal HG and arp head studs. While doing the job i put all new gaskets. my first thought was that it had a leak at the intake manifold.

The pipe after the afm is New also, maybe a few months old.

Swaped CPS, ISC, AFM, O2 sensor, all from another running car.

Tps brand new.

Just replace my lower I/c hose with a hard pipe.

Car has spark and fuel so thats not the problem

Could the fuel pump maybe out of wack and possible sending to much fuel. I don't know maybe alond shot, because i don't realy have any other ideas.

 

[YoNkErS87t]

Another thing this happened right after a put a new speedo cable in. Could there be anything in the wiring from the dash that could cause this. I don't realy think so, if any it would mess up a gauge or lights or something.

 

[thesupraman]

The one time I had a SUPER rich condition was when the rubber diaphragm in the fpr failed. A big tear in the diaphragm was letting TONS of gas get forced through the vacuum line into the intake manifold. This was on an aftermarket fpr, but the result would be the same. Pull the vacuum line off and check to see if it is full of, or smells like gas.

 

[Y.O. supra89T]

i think i checked to see if that vacuum hose smelled like gas before, someone else told me to check that when the problem first happened.

I'm about to go down stairs and check it again and also the cold start injector.

I thought maybe the apr was bad altogether, so i swapped it out with a good one and i checked that O-ring before putting it back in and it looked good.

P.S. this is YONKERS87t under a friends name. I forgot to change accounts

 

[YoNkErS87t]

And to let everone know this is a STOCK setup. Sorry for not posting this earlier.

 

[YoNkErS87t]

disconnected the CSI and checked the vaccum on the FPR and it doesn;t smell like fuel so i'm guessing its not the problem.

I swapped out the ecu with a 88, I don't know if it matters because mine is a 87, but it didn't help so i'm kinda running out of ideas here.

 

[smagnotta]

You are doing a good job; hang in there. :burnout:

Swapping parts off a running car is a smart idea but the thing is, are you sure you put these parts in your car correctly? When it comes to car problems do not assume anything.

For example, if the CPS is off by a tooth or so, you can have idle problems and the car won't stay on. Also, are sure the timing was set correctly?

The 88 ECU is compatible with your 87.

However, is your 87 a 5 speed or automatic? That matters with the type of ECU you put in.

Another thing this happened right after a put a new speedo cable in. Could there be anything in the wiring from the dash that could cause this. I don't realy think so, if any it would mess up a gauge or lights or something.

From my experiences, the answer is no. Was there anything else you did?

I have some kind of rich condition in my car. I mean rich!!! I put a new set of plugs in start the car and it runs for about a minute or two and stalls out. I pull the plug and blacker than black. While the car is run I can't rev the engine at all. If i touch the gas a little bit the car sounds like it is missing or its chocking. Sounds like it is getting to much gas and it doesn't know what to do with it.

So when you press the gas peddle when it is idling it will not increase RPMs still?

I can tell you that this exact thing happened to me when I was setting the timing, lining up the grooves on my timing assembly, and lining up the CPS hash mark. The problem was the CPS was not set correctly. Once I set the CPS correctly, no problems.

Let us know if your car is a manual or 5 speed and what type of ECU you put in there (manual or 5 speed).

Also, what kind of spark plugs did you put in the car? Stock platinum? Aftermarket? Are you plug gaps set correctly?

 

[YoNkErS87t]

Both ECU are from a 5speed.

Not only did I double check the timing, I triple checked. I might even go back and check a fourth time for the hell of it, but i realy don't think its that because my timing was fine before it started the problem. The car has a hard time raising idle when given gas. Any where above 1000rpm it chokes, but if give the littlest gas and raise the rpms slowely it revs up better, but not 100%.

The other thing i did to the car the day it started this problem was. I swapped my HAC into a friends car to set his timing because he didn't have one at the time. I tried to run the car without it the other day to see if the engine had any change.

When the problem first happened I had autolites in and I replaced them with NGK platinums and i made sure the plugs were gapped at 32.

I only messed with these cars for about a little over a year. I'm not trying to sound cocky, but i know the car pretty good. Only because i probaly made ever mistake on the car possible and just learned from my mistakes. I've worked on about six different supras in this past year and half. Two of them have sat for about 6 months and I was able to get them running. I'm kinda running out of ideas, but i still have a couple of other things first.

I appreciated any ideas and suggestion i'm given.

 

[YoNkErS87t]

I still want to check the i/c pipes going to the fender even though i checked it already.
If that doens't help i'm going to bypass the intercooler. I'm thinking maybe my I/c is cracked if this is possible. But at this point anything is possible.

 

[thesupraman]

Try checking the TPS.... a friend of mine had one go bad on his MR2.

 

[YoNkErS87t]

I just bought a new TPS after the problem started and relcalibrated it. I did wans't the problem.

I could see if the tps went bad in the beginning and maybe the new one isn't recalibrated right. I would think the way the engine would have a different characteristic to it, the way it idled or rev up, but its all the same.

I almost touched ever thing there is to on the engine and it still can't figure out the problem.

 

[YoNkErS87t]

I listened to my injectors and two of them sounded off, so replaced the with another set and it made my car worse. Vacuum read at like 10psi. All of the injectors sounded like shit.

Replaced the injectors out with the first set that was in there and checked vaccum and it read at just a little under 20psi, like 19psi. Listened to the injectors again and all of them sounded the same but not healthy.

Bypassed my intercooler to see if the I/c could possibly be the culprit but nothing. The i/c piping was tripled checked and looked fine.

I think the next thing to move on to is the fuel system. Injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter.

 

[thesupraman]

Damn dude that sucks. I was going to ask about your afm, but decided to check your list on the original post and saw that you checked the afm and tps (derr..sorry. should have checked that b4 asking). Ummm..I guess try checking all of the air/fuel related sensors at the ecu plug....unless you did already. Sounds like the ecu might be getting bogus or no signals from the related sensors since you swapped in another ecu with the same results. If everything checks out O.K. there then it definately sounds like a mechanical problem, i.e. sticking injectors, bad fpr, oh and dont forget to check the cold start injector. They get gummed up real bad from the egr (unless you have a jspec motor....which you do right? Uhh forget the egr thing..) Try unplugging the cold start...unless you did...sorry about the rambling but I'm wicked tired right now. Dunno man but good luck!!

 

[smagnotta]

Replaced the injectors out with the first set that was in there and checked vaccum and it read at just a little under 20psi, like 19psi. Listened to the injectors again and all of them sounded the same but not healthy.

My car at operating temperature hovers around 18 PSI. Is this OK as I thought it should be 20 PSI?

[The cold start injector ]

can get gummed up real bad from the egr

About the cold start injector - isn't its purpose to help start the car? When the car is running can it cause your car to sputter or miss if it is "gummed up" ?

 

[thesupraman]

About the cold start injector - isn't its purpose to help start the car? When the car is running can it cause your car to sputter or miss if it is "gummed up" ?

Yes, the cold start injector is there to help start the car. The way that the intake manifold is designed, the egr gas blows directly on the cold start injector. After time, this gas makes a gooey sticky tar-like mess on everything that it comes in contact with. If the injector pintle valve gets stuck open from this, the result would be a rich condition. But, come to think of it, this would only be rich when the car is off idle in open loop. The O2 sensor would correct the mixture at idle. So to answer your question about sputter or miss, no. A slightly rich condition caused by a stuck cold start injector shouldn't cause your car to sputter or mis, in fact, you would probably only notice it in the way of decreased gas milage.