Too Tight!

[Xtreme]

Hey everyone. Got my supra started yesterday, but I had a dead cylinder. No compression. Figured out that #2 intake valved were too tight, as well as one of #2 exhaust valves. That'll do it. so I checked the rest, and discovered that some were too loose. I thought I may have mixed up some of the lifters, as the valve stem produces specific wear pattern on them, and so I switched the loose ones for the tight ones, figuring that may solve the problem. No go. I don't really want to take my head off again, so the options I figured I have are:
1) take the lifters out and lightly drill the wear spots until they come to spec.
2) same as above, just take the valve stems down a few thousandths.
3) get a real big hammer.........

help me out here guys, thanks X

 

[superbovine]

why not just do a valve adjustment?

 

[ahmedootie]

I like tha Really big hammer idea ....

 

[Bishop92t]

4) do it the right way and adjust the valves with a caliper, feeler gauge and some new shims. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_08.html

 

[chriso]

I had to do mine since when I got the head, all of the parts were in a bag. After I lapped all the valves some of the clearances changed. I would highly reccommend getting a lifter tool to take out the shims. Here it is......

http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?page=3

 

[Xtreme]

First, thanks for the replies.
Second- I borrowed a good mic from the neighbor and we checked all the lifters, and then switched them around to pull everything to within specs. I think I just mixed the valves up, as I numbered all the lifters to make sure they went back in the same holes they came out of. The car runs better now, but I still have a slight miss at idle, and sometimes a hesitation when accelerating harder than normal. I won't mash the throttle until I am confident the hg has seated. Im still searching for possible causes of the rough/stumble idle, and the hesitation, but if anyone has any ideas, they would be appreiciated. Also, occasionally while driving, my check engine light comes on, but when I shut the car off, it goes out, only to reappear later while driving again. any ideas? Thanx -X

 

[rakkasan]

Im still searching for possible causes of the rough/stumble idle, and the hesitation, but if anyone has any ideas, they would be appreiciated. Also, occasionally while driving, my check engine light comes on, but when I shut the car off, it goes out, only to reappear later while driving again. any ideas? Thanx -X

Check to see if your coils are still grounded, that usually causes the stumbling.
Check your codes

 

[Xtreme]

well, my check engine light came on while driving again, and now I have code 42, 51 AND 52 so I'll try to clear those. Funny thing is, when I start my car, the light isn't on. It just comes on after driving for a while. But I'll search for causes for the codes and try to fix them.

 

[Bishop92t]

Check engine light doesn't always come on when there is a code. 52 will throw a light, but it takes the ECU a while to figure out it doesn't like the knock sensor wiring. 42 and 51 will never turn the light on. The 92 TSRM actually outlines which codes will turn the light on.

 

[Xtreme]

Okay, searched, and going to do the SOGI ks rewire here in a minute, as soon as I get my printer online(its a piece of crap) I will attempt to adjust my tps, but the speed sensor thing? All I can find on that is kinda vague, any explanations would be welcome. Thanx -X


Alright, I got rid of the code 52 ( the SOGI mod is great) but I still have the 51, and the check engine light seems to come on randomly, although it never comes on when you start the car and let it warm up, only when you drive it. I tried to calibrate my tps, but I think I did it wrong, I could only get a reading on the first test listed, the top? post and the last one. at WOT, everything just read "1" I dunno, maybe Im a dumbass or illiterate or something. I'll try it again tomorrow sometime. Anyways, getting rid of code 52 helped the car run better, the miss is nearly gone, and it is much smoother now. Still have a boost leak somewhere, but I'll track that down soon. Is there a more comprehensive instruction page on how to calibrate the tps? If so, can somebody post a link for me. Again, thank you for your help, I greatly appreciate any advice you can give.
=X

 

[Xtreme]

Okay, another update, car runs pretty good, now and I figured out how to adjust the tps, so Im gonna do that like right now. then maybe try to adjust the air/fuel mix and get my idle back inline. The car starts kinda hard, it takes a couple of tries to get it to fire, but that might be the screwed up tps. We'll see.
I'll update later and let yall know what's up.
-X

 

[Xtreme]

Ok, so I got all my work done in Portland this week, my girl was driving the car, and the fan clutch went out, with the resulting running hot. At least she pulled over and called me. So I duct taped it tight, and drove home that way. (at least it didn't overheat) *L* So anyways, I have a boost leak somewhere I still have to track down, The car boosts up to about 8 lbs, then bleeds off to -4. Anyways, I heard on this forum that Xylene cleans fuel injectors really well, and as a painter, I have access to it, but it's pretty hot stuff, does anyone know how much to use. (like 10z. to a gallon of gas) I would like to hear some feedback on this, if anyone knows. Thanx in advance, and I will let you guys know about the ongoing saga that is Supra.
-X

 

[Adjuster]

You can run Xylene at 30% mix to petrol. (Gas.)

I run Toulene in a mix of about 2 gal for every ten. (20% mix.) with no problems, and no detonation either.

It does keep your fuel system nice and clean too, no build up or varnish ever. (Toulene is the major ingredient in fuel injector cleaners you buy over the counter at the parts stores.)

What sucks is the cost of Toulene has gone up in a huge way with the cost of fuel and oil prices in general. The last 55 gal. drums I bought were 1.04 per gal. Now the Toulene is over 5.00 per gal. Zylene is not an cheaper, but you can find it at the paint stores easy, so buying it while traveling is simple. (Generally can be found at Lowes, Home Desperate, or any hardware store for less than 7.00 per gal. (Last time I checked. Might be more now with the cost of everything going up so much.)

Good luck mixing your own home brew'ed gas. (Just add the Xylene or Tolulene, and then add the gas, get a good funnel as spills on your paint will cause staining, or it can lift the paint right off your car with extended contact.) I carry a nice orange narrow neck long funnel in my cars all the time so I can add Tolulene any tmie I want. It beats the heck out of trying to rely on gas can spouts which always tend to drip or leak when you don't want them to.

 

[Xtreme]

I agree with you, Adjuster. Since I am part of the family painting business, I get good discounts on paint supplies, and the Xylene hardly costs anything. I also know Xylene's properties, as extended peroids of use the last time I used it melted my rubber gloves. Good stuff. Anyways, I am glad somebody has used it, as I was hesitant to put anything in my gas tank that may screw more stuff up. Hopefully it will save me the hundred bucks the shop wants to clean my injectors. Thanx
-X

 

[Xtreme]

Zylene works. But Everyone told me that it would, so no surprise there. I still have knock sensor issues, so I am going to rewire them again (maybe I'll get it right) although it's not that complicated, I may have inadvertantly screwed up, and pulled a wire off or something. In any event, the code 52 isn't going away, and my car runs like crap, I need to fix it pronto. So yeah, that's how I am going to spend my saturday, working on the ole supra. So goes the days of our lives, right? -X