Can somebody explain engine error code 52. It says its something to do with the knock sensor. I just got it too, because i downshifted from 4th to 3rd normally, and the engine light came on. I checked it and i have error code 52. Also, i have error code 34 too. Also, i just changed plugs in my car to the autolites, which is making my car misfire just a little. Can barely notice it but it is misfiring. What could be causing this and whats the cure?
Engine code 52, knock sensor question?
- Thread starter huntin5L
- Start date
code 52 is when the wires to the knock sensors, or the knock sensors themselves go bad. basically, you need to do the SOGI re-wire, and make sure your knock sensors havent shit the bed. (very unusual, they rarely go bad)
many people think a code 52 means they have rodknock, which is UNTRUE. it's the code that tells you that the ECU is not getting data from the sensors.
when you have a code 52, your car will hate boost. it might buck and backfire, and be sluggish overall. you'll also run even more rich than usual, because the ECU will retard timing and enrichen fuel mixture.
check out this link for the SOGI re-wire:
http://www.supras.com/04/resources/index.php?id=69&start=31
-shaeff
many people think a code 52 means they have rodknock, which is UNTRUE. it's the code that tells you that the ECU is not getting data from the sensors.
when you have a code 52, your car will hate boost. it might buck and backfire, and be sluggish overall. you'll also run even more rich than usual, because the ECU will retard timing and enrichen fuel mixture.
check out this link for the SOGI re-wire:
http://www.supras.com/04/resources/index.php?id=69&start=31
-shaeff
shaeff hit it on the head...
as for your questions... if you reset the ecu and the code isnt there check for loose connections... mine does that sometimes because i used camry knock sensors and i had ghetto rigged it to work for the time being heh....
as for your question about buying a setup.... 8 outta 10 supras already have the KS's rewired because its a very common problem... the sensors are usually fine...you will need to redo the wiring with some shielded cable like coaxial or usb 2.0
as for your questions... if you reset the ecu and the code isnt there check for loose connections... mine does that sometimes because i used camry knock sensors and i had ghetto rigged it to work for the time being heh....
as for your question about buying a setup.... 8 outta 10 supras already have the KS's rewired because its a very common problem... the sensors are usually fine...you will need to redo the wiring with some shielded cable like coaxial or usb 2.0
ok where is the knock sensor located, i heard you you have to take off the starter to get to it. I have an 89. I want to start checking for loose connections. Because this happend when i downshifted from 4th to 3rd and the engine light immediately popped on.
theres two of them...both underneath the intake manifold... one near the front of the block and one right in front of the starter...you can get to them from the top...and you dont have to take out the starter... just gotta have the ninja hands 
Idealsupra said:theres two of them...both underneath the intake manifold... one near the front of the block and one right in front of the starter...you can get to them from the top...and you dont have to take out the starter... just gotta have the ninja hands
i didnt have to take out my starter to do it... [edit for clarity: as ideal supra stated]
-shaeff
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MisterTurbineTwister
Guest
You will need long arms, ninja hands and a 27mm deep socket with a flexible handle ratchet or something in the 27mm range to get it out if you plan on replacing it. You just need a pair of pliers and to gently wiggle the connector off when you go to fix the problem with the short in the wire at the connector.
I had to replace my rear knock sensor because the damn brown plastic insulation broke off of the sensor when I pulled the connections to do the head gasket a while back. I just cut the wires back and re pinned the connector and mine work just fine. This is actually what I thought the problem was (that and possibly the cam position sensor) and I thought was causing that rattling sound I was telling you about in my other post that I nailed down, huntin5L...
Just pull the connectors off of the sensors and take about 1/2" out of the wire and re solder new pins or connect a good head with pigtails from another toyota wiring harness. I used some from a 22RE that I found half of a wiring harness for at a junkyard that I salvaged for a lot of connectors from. Just make sure that you pay very close attention to which wire goes to the left and right side of the connector, looking at it with the release tab always facing the same direction.
I had to replace my rear knock sensor because the damn brown plastic insulation broke off of the sensor when I pulled the connections to do the head gasket a while back. I just cut the wires back and re pinned the connector and mine work just fine. This is actually what I thought the problem was (that and possibly the cam position sensor) and I thought was causing that rattling sound I was telling you about in my other post that I nailed down, huntin5L...
Just pull the connectors off of the sensors and take about 1/2" out of the wire and re solder new pins or connect a good head with pigtails from another toyota wiring harness. I used some from a 22RE that I found half of a wiring harness for at a junkyard that I salvaged for a lot of connectors from. Just make sure that you pay very close attention to which wire goes to the left and right side of the connector, looking at it with the release tab always facing the same direction.
MisterTurbineTwister said:
OR, you could just do it right the first time and do the SOGI re-wire. it took me less than an hour total. it might take a new guy/gal to the car about 2 hours to do.
why half ass it and use the wires that are AT LEAST 13 years old!? that makes no sense. just replace them, and never deal with code 52 again...
-shaeff
shaeff said:
did i do something wrong here? lol :dunno:
or are you just agreeing with me in a wierd way? :1zhelp:
Idealsupra said:
haha, definately agreeing with you an an odd manner, i suppose. :wave: it's a common misconception that the starter needs to be taken out on the 89+ motors, when, infact, it doesnt for the rewire. i was just trying to make that more clear. i suppose i failed. haha.
-shaeff
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MisterTurbineTwister
Guest
I ended up using the original wires with new pins and a new clip (tinned and soldered with no pig tail splices). The problem was with the wire connection right at the connector head. I have cars that are 40+ years old with their original wiring harnesses that work perfectly. If anything ever goes wrong with anything wiring related, it's usually right at the connector. Sometimes you do see cracked insulation and in that case I would replace the wire entirely, but it's usually fatigue in the insulation and then in the wire itself, right at the connector.
New wires do work better. I won't argue that. but replacing just the head pins does fix the problem, usually.
New wires do work better. I won't argue that. but replacing just the head pins does fix the problem, usually.
Still haven't gotten that error again after clearing. I guess ill wait till i get it again. I wonder if this is related to those stupid plugs i put in the car. The autolites that is. My car has a very slight miss and it all started right after i put these plugs in.
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MisterTurbineTwister
Guest
That's right, 5L. If you suspect a misfire in your plugs you should double check your gap and make sure you're absolutely positive that it's gapped at .032" because if you don't, the compression from the turbocharger can extinguish the plasma of the spark at a further gap.
The 7M-GE (non turbo) engines use a much larger gap and can get away with this because of the lack of boost PSI and lack of initial spark advance.
You could also check or replace your spark plug wires (when was the last time you changed them, if at all? How many miles are on those things?). That is a commonly overlooked cause of misfire. Sometimes a spark plug wire conductor core can become brittle over time and crack within the insulation, showing no damage on the outside. Pulling the plug wire from the plug can further destroy a bad spark plug wire. Often times the spark plugs themselves get blamed at the time of change for misfire, when it was actually the brittle wire cores that were further cracked and separated inside the insulation of the wires causing the short and misfire problem.
You could also check your timing on a light (as timing belts do stretch over milage) and check for accordion hose, vacuum and boost leaks and potential leaks coming from cracking or brittle hoses.
The 7M-GE (non turbo) engines use a much larger gap and can get away with this because of the lack of boost PSI and lack of initial spark advance.
You could also check or replace your spark plug wires (when was the last time you changed them, if at all? How many miles are on those things?). That is a commonly overlooked cause of misfire. Sometimes a spark plug wire conductor core can become brittle over time and crack within the insulation, showing no damage on the outside. Pulling the plug wire from the plug can further destroy a bad spark plug wire. Often times the spark plugs themselves get blamed at the time of change for misfire, when it was actually the brittle wire cores that were further cracked and separated inside the insulation of the wires causing the short and misfire problem.
You could also check your timing on a light (as timing belts do stretch over milage) and check for accordion hose, vacuum and boost leaks and potential leaks coming from cracking or brittle hoses.
MisterTurbineTwister said:
i personally think a .032 gap is too large... i would gap down to around .030 and for higher boost down more to around .027ish