t1 and e1 make no difference in timing!

[scottiedawg66]

After I installed my wideband I am running lean under boost. 13 lbs, with 550s and lexus, stock FPR and stock pump. My timing was too advanced, by alot. Now I want to set it at 10 deg. Once i get it set at 10 i remove the jumper t1 and e1 my timing does not jump up to 12 as described as tsrm? I think my TPS is off, I cant get that fucker within TSRM specs up for the life of me. After fixing my charcoal canister sitiuation, I run lean at idle (15.0:1 AFR) with timing set at 10, but no difference in t1 and e1? Does this mean im not going into closed loop? The only code i get is 51. And usually thats TPS, however it also could be due to my removed AC completly.

~scott

 

[Justin]

I think that's what you're supposed to be at when you're idling... 14.7, 15 isn't very far off....

 

[scottiedawg66]

I'm aware of that, but my real problem lies in the fact that when i jumper and un jumper my timing doesnt change like its supposed to. according to TSRM when you set timing at 10 BDTC with t1 and e1 jumpered and pull the jumper timing should jump up to about 12 BDTC, my timing doesnt change when I pull my jumper.

~scott

~scott

 

[shaeff]

The only code i get is 51. And usually thats TPS, however it also could be due to my removed AC completly.

my A/C is completely pulled out, and i have no codes. i've never seen a code 51 actually be the A/C.

-shaeff

 

[scottiedawg66]

could my TPS being off cause this t1 and e1 to not have an affect on timing?

~scott

 

[Bishop92t]

The reason you set the timing to 10 with T1 and E1 jumpered is to establish a baseline. Once you remove the jumper the ECU will custom tailor the timing based on temperature, altitude, warmth of engine, etc. What it does after you remove T1 and E1 makes no difference, leave that alone, all you're concerned about is baseline with the two jumpered.

Code 51 is only AC related if you have the AC turned on while testing. Basically your TPS needs to be adjusted.

 

[scottiedawg66]

ok, so my timing is set at 10 with t1 and e1 jumpered, and 10 with it not jumpered. So from what you say I am fine there. I'll work on chasing down code 51. Thanks for the help. Sorry for all the dumb questions lately, but TSRM kinda leads you in circles sometimes, and the car I got was a total basket case so I have been chasing codes ever since I got her running.

~scott

 

[garrettrowe]

Actually, you need to get the timing to jump to above 12. The reason it's not jumping is that car is not seeing you are at idle. The problem (code 51) is that the idle contact inside the tps is bad or your tps needs adjusting. If you've never replaced the tps, count on the idle contact being bad.

Closed loop 14.7ish is always normal on the wideband.

 

[scottiedawg66]

Thats what I origionally thought. When I move my tps clock wise my timing goes thru the roof, like to 20. I cant even get my timing go get it down past 15 no matter how far i retard my CPS. There is a certian point on my TPS that makes a huge timing difference, and thats at full counter clock wise. I have checked that my CPS is a tooth off. Seems to be right on, and I think my car would run crappier if it was a tooth off, also my notches on my cam gears line up perfectly with the marks when im at BDC. So i think im playing the TPS game.

~scott

 

[Shawndude]

The ECU will not hold the timing with the code 51, so jumpering the T1-E1 has no effect at all, hence why it's not working right.

Just buy a new TPS, old ones are nothing but pain in the ass.

 

[YoNkErS87t]

How much do the TPS go for. I'm just interested in knowing.

 

[garrettrowe]

Thats what I origionally thought. When I move my tps clock wise my timing goes thru the roof, like to 20. I cant even get my timing go get it down past 15 no matter how far i retard my CPS. There is a certian point on my TPS that makes a huge timing difference, and thats at full counter clock wise. I have checked that my CPS is a tooth off. Seems to be right on, and I think my car would run crappier if it was a tooth off, also my notches on my cam gears line up perfectly with the marks when im at BDC. So i think im playing the TPS game.

~scott

This sounds exactly like the CPS being a tooth off. Keep in mind when you insert the cps with everything looking correct it will rotate as it gets into the hole. Even with a really messed up TPS you will be able to bring the timing down below 5 just by rotating the cps. Reinstall the CPS again, if you need to, pull the valve cover to verify the alignment.

 

[scottiedawg66]

Played with my CPS today. Seems like even when i line it up properly I go a tooth advanced. Might be due to NA cams, or even just the way the gear is turning to seat. When I try to kick my CPS a tooth retarded my car wont idle, when I kick it a tooth too advanced it doesnt really make a difference. Im really lost and gettin sick of chasing this problem, but I know its me not toyota's design. Still cant get e1 and t1 to make a difference in my timing. I know if i dont fix it im just gonna need another rebuild, so Ill tackle it one way or another.

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

Tps usually cost about 75.00 usd from toyota. Check to make sure it is adjusted first. Usually tps is out of adjustment.

 

[mk3forme]

Im having a similar problem in trying to achieve time. I pulled the cover off the CPS to verify that the gear stays aligned once I shove it in all the way. And I dont think its possible to stay where it suppose to. It jumped foward a tooth every time. I finally had to set the crank pulley to 5 degrees instead of 0 to just to be able to get it to time at 10 cause it was either to far advanced or retarded . And even with it reaching time now the CPS is maxed out clockwise. So is this normal first of all? I figured there should be a greater range of adustment without maxing out one way or another? Also I cant seem to keep idle and Im assuming thats because of the code 51 it through according to this thread. But when I rev up the motor and then let off of it then it dies. Wont idle unless I let the rpm down very easily. The exhaust smell is horrible also. Smells very rich. Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[scottiedawg66]

Your driving symptoms are exactly the same as mine. SO ill bet that we have a similar problem. Once the rain stops and i get a chance to wrench on this puppy ill let u know.

~scott

 

[mk3forme]

ok now that my code is gone I seem to be in time. And with the jumper off it advances as it should as well. And also my CPS is not maxed out like it was. I guess that code 51 was really screwing everything up because I changed nothing from my what I did on my original thread. I just went out today and started it and checked the timing and the code was gone and I was able to back off the CPS to get my time correct. I still cant idle when after revving so Im assuming its my idle sensor is bad or something Time to check into some more possibilties. It idles fine without revving but once you rev and then let off it wont recover and dies.

 

[mk3forme]

Well I dont know what happened but ignore that last post of mine cause for one reason or another im in the same boat the I was before. I dont understand because with my last post everything was back to normal except the revving up and then dying problem. So I checked into a couple more thing with that and found nothing else and changed nothing else. I regapped my plugs to .030 and that was it. And now I cant get my car in time again for nothing. I got some new plug wires from Advance and I suspect this is one of my problems, cause when I went to check the timing after one of the manyyyyy times I have reset the CPS, the timing light wouldnt work. Thought it was my light but hooked it up to my NA and found out it wasnt. So changed the #1 wire out with one off my other turbo and it solved the problem. I have never had luck with after market parts like plug wires on foreign cars. I will try changing them all out next and then resetting my CPS. I also tried a spare CPS sitting around as I figured it had to be a problem with that since I didnt touch the timing and the problem reoccured but had no affect on my problem at all. Also when I go to jumper to set the timing it automatically throws a code 51. Anyone have any other suggestions??

 

[scottiedawg66]

Well if your TPS fixed the problem the 1st time, i bet that the TPS is the culprit again. Are you still getting codes? Sorry I havent had any time to work on my car and possibly help you out, my GF is moving to LA next week. On weds ill get back to my usual supra restoring ways.

~scott

 

[mk3forme]

Well just call me stupid but my problem was not the CPS but a vacuum leak instead. I have a hose that is cracked and I did not make sure I had everything hooked up securely in between all the times I took out the CPS. Also my revving up problem is gone too. I havent checked though to see if the timing does what its suppose to after I take off the jumper.