Dyno was last night. Did 347rwhp at 17.2 psi. But it will do over 400rwhp now. I had the boost controller set totally wrong and the only reason I got 17psi was creep....lol Hit 17psi at 6000RPM!! Did some testing today and got it set up and workin so now I hit 18psi at 3500rpm! So I will go back and try again here in the near future. I know Scott wants to do some tuning with his new motor so maybe we can rent a slot out and work on all our cars? But other then the boost issue it made 3 clean passes with go A/F ratios! O and I was thinking about your comment about checking to see if a walbro 255 had been installed but that hatch in the trunk is just the fuel sending unit....you have to drop the tank to access the full pump panel. Keep in touch and let me know when you have a free weekend. BTW you can see events in the area at www.vadriven.com, I just joined myself
Good to hear you got it up and running. The 12V fuel pump mod is a pretty common modification around here and pretty easy to do. I actually have a relay powering my fuel pump with heavier gauge wiring to supply the most amperage possible. The stock fuel pump power wire now signals the relay to turn on.
Well a fusible link is just a special section of wire that is mean to burn up when there is a short circuit to protect the rest of the wiring. It has a fire resistant insulation so that when the wires inside burn up, the insulation stays intact. One good way to check fusible links is to pull on them with a moderate amount of force, and if its bad, the insulation will break. A fusible link will always 4 wire sizes smaller than the wire it is attached to.
All of the power that goes to your car comes off that fusible link, the other wire just powers your starter.
With that said, its probably not the fusible link itself, but more likely the crimp connection of that wire to the main battery positive. Is there any tape or insulation that might be hiding a problem under there? Are your battery connections all factory or have they been replaced?