Stage 1
Stage 1 is a basic upgrade for all MK3 Turbo Supra's. This upgrade help's in many ways. Not only does it help your engine breath, and become more efficient, it also help's with the infamous Blown Head Gasket (BHG). The addition of the 3 inch down pipe, removes the cold start catalytic converter from your exhaust, which is also a MAJOR source of heat in your engine compartment. Some claim this first cat's residual heat, causes uneven contraction of the cylinder head as it cools, after driving.
You Supra will also become more fuel efficient, due to less restriction in the exhaust, and intake. Plus the new air filter, is reusable, unlike the Fram, and Wix filter's you buy at your local auto parts store. In the end this new filter will pay for itself, over and over again. The power gain's you will see, by simply doing these modification's is amazing. Your Supra will be more willing to rev, and much more enjoyable to drive, with less turbo lag.
Stage 2
Stage 2 helps the Stage 1 mod's work to their full ability. With Stage 1 mod's you will hit around 7-8.5 psi, from your stock turbo. With the Stage 2 mod's it will bump your boost to about 12 psi (depending on temperature) which is where fuel cut is. The high flow turbo elbow takes away the notoriously restrictive stock elbow, and replaces it with a mandrel bent 3 inch piece, that not only flows more, but retains less heat. Less heat in the engine bay is always a good thing. The high flow elbow will also help the high rpm ranges, in addition to further reducing spool. With these mod's you have now, turbo lag will be virtually non-existent. The power delivery is amazing, without being unmanageable. If you were not using premium gas before, (which you should ALWAYS do!) you NEED it now.
Replacing the stock BOV with a HKS kit, or Porsche spec one is a very good idea. At this pressure, the stock re-circulation valve will not last long. I had a Porsche valve on my car, and within 6 months, it was broken, victim of a ruptured diaphragm. Replacing the stock cat, with a high flow one, or, if the vehicle will be driven off road, a test pipe, is a good idea. The stock cat is very restrictive at this power, and should net you around 15-20 hp, once you remove it.
For the boost controller, any one of them is a good choice as long as it's electronic, although I would recommend staying away from the Profec b, which is known to not work very well. I would go for a fuzzy logic one, which doesn't think in black and white (on off), rather in shades of gray (percentage's). This translates to less spool time, and more stable boost pressure's.
Stage 3
Stage three adds more reliability, and peace of mind. If you didn't know already the 7M-GTE (and GE) are known to blow head gaskets, A LOT. The common signs of a BHG, is coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Some blame the BHG's on an inadequate head gasket design (which was redesigned by Toyota later on, but doesn't seem to help) or too loose of a torque setting for the head bolts (specified 56 Ft. pounds). Either way, it is a problem that can be solved. Many companies make what is known as a Metal Head Gasket (MHG) which is far superior to the composite stock one. Both the 1JZ and the 2JZ have metal head gasket's from the factory. A properly installed MHG, will not blow. We also recommend using ARP studs, or bolts (studs are better) because you simply can not reuse the stock bolts, because they have already been stretched. Also the ARP's will hold the 75 Ft pounds that is generally recommended by the supra community.
At this point we would also suggest looking into an intercooler. The stock turbo is being pushed quite hard at this point, and a more efficient intercooler, will get the charge temperatures back down to where they should be. I picked up around 15 hp, just from replacing my stock intercooler. You will also notice a big difference accelerating onto the freeway, where the stock intercooler is quickly heat soaked, but the upgraded one can handle the heat.
Also, we recommend replacing your old fuel pump with a new Walbro unit. The stock fuel pump is not really stressed at this level, but it's a good thing to do anyways, since the fuel pump that is in your car is at least 12 years old! Walbro's are known to make a whining noise, some have given them the name "whinebro," it's not that loud, it's just noticeable. To put it in perspective, it is quieter the Chevy fuel pump's of the 94-99 era.
Stage 1 is a basic upgrade for all MK3 Turbo Supra's. This upgrade help's in many ways. Not only does it help your engine breath, and become more efficient, it also help's with the infamous Blown Head Gasket (BHG). The addition of the 3 inch down pipe, removes the cold start catalytic converter from your exhaust, which is also a MAJOR source of heat in your engine compartment. Some claim this first cat's residual heat, causes uneven contraction of the cylinder head as it cools, after driving.
You Supra will also become more fuel efficient, due to less restriction in the exhaust, and intake. Plus the new air filter, is reusable, unlike the Fram, and Wix filter's you buy at your local auto parts store. In the end this new filter will pay for itself, over and over again. The power gain's you will see, by simply doing these modification's is amazing. Your Supra will be more willing to rev, and much more enjoyable to drive, with less turbo lag.
Stage 2
Stage 2 helps the Stage 1 mod's work to their full ability. With Stage 1 mod's you will hit around 7-8.5 psi, from your stock turbo. With the Stage 2 mod's it will bump your boost to about 12 psi (depending on temperature) which is where fuel cut is. The high flow turbo elbow takes away the notoriously restrictive stock elbow, and replaces it with a mandrel bent 3 inch piece, that not only flows more, but retains less heat. Less heat in the engine bay is always a good thing. The high flow elbow will also help the high rpm ranges, in addition to further reducing spool. With these mod's you have now, turbo lag will be virtually non-existent. The power delivery is amazing, without being unmanageable. If you were not using premium gas before, (which you should ALWAYS do!) you NEED it now.
Replacing the stock BOV with a HKS kit, or Porsche spec one is a very good idea. At this pressure, the stock re-circulation valve will not last long. I had a Porsche valve on my car, and within 6 months, it was broken, victim of a ruptured diaphragm. Replacing the stock cat, with a high flow one, or, if the vehicle will be driven off road, a test pipe, is a good idea. The stock cat is very restrictive at this power, and should net you around 15-20 hp, once you remove it.
For the boost controller, any one of them is a good choice as long as it's electronic, although I would recommend staying away from the Profec b, which is known to not work very well. I would go for a fuzzy logic one, which doesn't think in black and white (on off), rather in shades of gray (percentage's). This translates to less spool time, and more stable boost pressure's.
Stage 3
Stage three adds more reliability, and peace of mind. If you didn't know already the 7M-GTE (and GE) are known to blow head gaskets, A LOT. The common signs of a BHG, is coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Some blame the BHG's on an inadequate head gasket design (which was redesigned by Toyota later on, but doesn't seem to help) or too loose of a torque setting for the head bolts (specified 56 Ft. pounds). Either way, it is a problem that can be solved. Many companies make what is known as a Metal Head Gasket (MHG) which is far superior to the composite stock one. Both the 1JZ and the 2JZ have metal head gasket's from the factory. A properly installed MHG, will not blow. We also recommend using ARP studs, or bolts (studs are better) because you simply can not reuse the stock bolts, because they have already been stretched. Also the ARP's will hold the 75 Ft pounds that is generally recommended by the supra community.
At this point we would also suggest looking into an intercooler. The stock turbo is being pushed quite hard at this point, and a more efficient intercooler, will get the charge temperatures back down to where they should be. I picked up around 15 hp, just from replacing my stock intercooler. You will also notice a big difference accelerating onto the freeway, where the stock intercooler is quickly heat soaked, but the upgraded one can handle the heat.
Also, we recommend replacing your old fuel pump with a new Walbro unit. The stock fuel pump is not really stressed at this level, but it's a good thing to do anyways, since the fuel pump that is in your car is at least 12 years old! Walbro's are known to make a whining noise, some have given them the name "whinebro," it's not that loud, it's just noticeable. To put it in perspective, it is quieter the Chevy fuel pump's of the 94-99 era.