Write up's on each stage 1-3

[Ckanderson]

Stage 1

Stage 1 is a basic upgrade for all MK3 Turbo Supra's. This upgrade help's in many ways. Not only does it help your engine breath, and become more efficient, it also help's with the infamous Blown Head Gasket (BHG). The addition of the 3 inch down pipe, removes the cold start catalytic converter from your exhaust, which is also a MAJOR source of heat in your engine compartment. Some claim this first cat's residual heat, causes uneven contraction of the cylinder head as it cools, after driving.

You Supra will also become more fuel efficient, due to less restriction in the exhaust, and intake. Plus the new air filter, is reusable, unlike the Fram, and Wix filter's you buy at your local auto parts store. In the end this new filter will pay for itself, over and over again. The power gain's you will see, by simply doing these modification's is amazing. Your Supra will be more willing to rev, and much more enjoyable to drive, with less turbo lag.

Stage 2

Stage 2 helps the Stage 1 mod's work to their full ability. With Stage 1 mod's you will hit around 7-8.5 psi, from your stock turbo. With the Stage 2 mod's it will bump your boost to about 12 psi (depending on temperature) which is where fuel cut is. The high flow turbo elbow takes away the notoriously restrictive stock elbow, and replaces it with a mandrel bent 3 inch piece, that not only flows more, but retains less heat. Less heat in the engine bay is always a good thing. The high flow elbow will also help the high rpm ranges, in addition to further reducing spool. With these mod's you have now, turbo lag will be virtually non-existent. The power delivery is amazing, without being unmanageable. If you were not using premium gas before, (which you should ALWAYS do!) you NEED it now.

Replacing the stock BOV with a HKS kit, or Porsche spec one is a very good idea. At this pressure, the stock re-circulation valve will not last long. I had a Porsche valve on my car, and within 6 months, it was broken, victim of a ruptured diaphragm. Replacing the stock cat, with a high flow one, or, if the vehicle will be driven off road, a test pipe, is a good idea. The stock cat is very restrictive at this power, and should net you around 15-20 hp, once you remove it.

For the boost controller, any one of them is a good choice as long as it's electronic, although I would recommend staying away from the Profec b, which is known to not work very well. I would go for a fuzzy logic one, which doesn't think in black and white (on off), rather in shades of gray (percentage's). This translates to less spool time, and more stable boost pressure's.

Stage 3

Stage three adds more reliability, and peace of mind. If you didn't know already the 7M-GTE (and GE) are known to blow head gaskets, A LOT. The common signs of a BHG, is coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Some blame the BHG's on an inadequate head gasket design (which was redesigned by Toyota later on, but doesn't seem to help) or too loose of a torque setting for the head bolts (specified 56 Ft. pounds). Either way, it is a problem that can be solved. Many companies make what is known as a Metal Head Gasket (MHG) which is far superior to the composite stock one. Both the 1JZ and the 2JZ have metal head gasket's from the factory. A properly installed MHG, will not blow. We also recommend using ARP studs, or bolts (studs are better) because you simply can not reuse the stock bolts, because they have already been stretched. Also the ARP's will hold the 75 Ft pounds that is generally recommended by the supra community.

At this point we would also suggest looking into an intercooler. The stock turbo is being pushed quite hard at this point, and a more efficient intercooler, will get the charge temperatures back down to where they should be. I picked up around 15 hp, just from replacing my stock intercooler. You will also notice a big difference accelerating onto the freeway, where the stock intercooler is quickly heat soaked, but the upgraded one can handle the heat.

Also, we recommend replacing your old fuel pump with a new Walbro unit. The stock fuel pump is not really stressed at this level, but it's a good thing to do anyways, since the fuel pump that is in your car is at least 12 years old! Walbro's are known to make a whining noise, some have given them the name "whinebro," it's not that loud, it's just noticeable. To put it in perspective, it is quieter the Chevy fuel pump's of the 94-99 era.

 

[shaeff]

this is old info carried over from the PRE-hacked SM.

origionally posted by ma71supraturbo:

Modification Order, MK3 Supra Turbo

There are many possible modification orders, but this staged list is the system I recommend for increasing your 7m-gte's power while maintaining good reliability (read: this is a conservative order of modification). Please do not begin modifying unless your car is well maintained and running with no problems (i.e. proper head gasket, no overheating issues, good vacuum, good oil pressure, no misses, etc). If your car has any issues, address them now. Additionally please continue to keep up on your car's maintainence. A vacume leak at the accoridan hose, for example, is not a particularly dangerous condition for a stock mk3. But if your car is tuned for optimum power, you have taken away the extra safety of the over-rich factory tune and you could end up doing severe damage by running lean.

The following horsepower figures are estimated at the crank (bhp) and are based on a perfectly running mk3. For reference, a stock MK3 makes 230bhp (232bhp 89+) @ 6.8psi. I chose to list crank HP estimates for a few reasons. Automatic and manual cars make the same power at the engine, but manuals put more of that power to the ground (12-15% M/T drivetrain loss verses ~18-20% A/T). Additionally, modifications like light-weight flywheels and driveshafts will increase the rear wheel horsepower without actually increasing the power at the crank. And finally, because manufacturers list crank horsepower figures so this allows more of a direct comparison with newer cars. That said, it is important to realize that your car may make more or less power depending on a number of factors, so please take these and all horsepower figures with a grain of salt.

Stage 1:
Intake, 235bhp @ 7psi
The first thing to do in increasing any engine's performance is to make sure it can flow plenty of air. The simplest way to help an engine breathe better is by installing an aftermarket intake. There are many different brands out there, but Apexi performed the best in this test. For hints on installing a full intake kit, please see this tech tip. While you are at it, I also recommend the SOGI cold-air intake mod.

Stage 2:
Cat-back, 250bhp @ ~8psi
Continuing with the theme of better breathing, the next step is to install a cat-back exhaust. There are even more brands and styles of exhausts than intakes, so take your time and find one which best fits your needs for flow, looks, and sound. If you live in an area where corrosion is a problem, you probably will not want to settle for anything less than a full stainless system.

Stage 3:
Downpipe/elbow/primary cat or test pipe, 280bhp @ ~9psi
If you still want more power, then its time to replace the restrictive stock downpipe, turbo elbow, and secondary catalytic converter. This picture shows one of the simpler downpipes, although there are some downpipes that integrate a turbo elbow and test pipe in one unit. For the environmentally concerned, Random Technologies makes a high-flow cat that will replace the secondary cat, but it obviously will not flow as well as a "test pipe." One word of caution -- downpipes are not legal in all states as they replace the primary catalytic converter.

Stage 3.5:
Gauges
While gauges do not increase power, it is important especially if you want to continue modifying. At this point, you're probably already boosting 9 psi, which exceeds the stock boost gauge. Installing a new one, along with an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) gauge is also a good idea. An Air/Fuel ratio gauge is also good, but readings based on your factory O2 sensor are next to worthless so a wideband 02 sensor would be necessary. Other good gauges to consider are water temperature, oil pressure, and oil temperature. If you can afford it, look for gauges with a peak hold feature. These can be very helpful, as you cannot always pay close attention to your gauges when you are driving hard.

Stage 4:
Boost controller, 300bhp @ just under fuel cut
Now that your engine can breathe freely and you can monitor what it's doing, it is time to turn up the boost with a boost controller. There are inexpensive manual boost controllers out there, but I have found it to be a pain to get out and adjust them every time the weather changes. The solution is an electronic boost controller which can not only be adjusted from inside the car, but some can also learn to better control your wastegate allowing the turbo to spool much faster.

Stage 5:
Intercooler and hardpipes, 320bhp @ just under fuel cut
If you still want more power, you will need to replace your stock intercooler and the restrictive stock intercooler piping. Compressing air creates heat, which can lead to detonation. Since you want to turn up the boost even more, you'll need an intercooler that can not only flow better but also do a better job of keeping the air cool. It also is a good idea to replace your factory bypass valve to prevent compressor surge.

Stage 5.5
fuel pump
When you try to boost too high, your ECU will cut fuel momentarily to prevent engine damage. Now that you want to exceed that limit, it is time to upgrade your fuel system. While it is possible to boost a little over fuel cut on the stock fuel system, it is not recommended -- especially if you have your sights set significantly higher. The first step to upgrading your fuel system is to then replace the fuel pump with one that can move more fuel. Walbro and the stock MKIV tt pump are common choices.

Stage 6:
Lexus AFM/550 injectors, 340bhp @ 15psi
One of the most common ways around fuel cut is to use an Air Flow Meter off a Lexus V8. The basic gist is this air flow meter allows some unmetered air through tricking the stock ECU into thinking it is getting less air than it really is. Because the ECU thinks it is getting less air, the boost at which you hit fuel cut goes up. To offset this extra air, 550 injectors replace the stock 440 units. Details on this upgrade can be found here. Recently, PHR has announced they will make a "map ecu" that will allow consumers to use a much less restrictive MAP sensor instead of an AFM. Details on this product can be found here.

Stage 7:
Fuel tuning device and dyno tuning, 375bhp @ 16psi
At this point, the car could benefit from some fine-tuning. Chances are you will be running rich, so an air/fuel controller can lean out the mixture and help further raise fuel cut. There are many options out there, so do a little research and decide on the best unit for your goals. If you must have the best, a standalone is the way to go but it is much more expensive, and is more difficult to tune (chances are you will have to have a professional tune it).

Stage 8:
Upgraded turbo
You have now reached the useable limits of the stock turbo. It is possible to further increase the boost, but the turbo will be blowing such hot air that you will experience diminishing returns. Which turbo you go with will depend entirely on how far you want to take your Supra. If 450bhp or less is ok you can go with an upgraded CT26. 550bhp or less and you can go with a bolt-on hybrid turbo. If that is not enough, then you will be looking at a bigger turbo that will probably involve some custom work. If you do have your sights set that high, you probably know what you’re doing or will be taking the car to a professional.




Here is the "original" stage chart that HKS put out years ago. It's main limitation is that it does not include a downpipe, turbo elbow, or test pipe so the upper horsepower figures are lower than people commonly see today:


1. Cat-back exhaust 251 bhp @ 8 psi

2. Super Power Flow Intake 259 bhp @ 8.5 psi

3. HKS EVC IV (boost controller) 285 bhp @11 psi

4. Intercooler kit 298 bhp @ 11.5 psi

5. PFC-FCON w/FCD 330 bhp @13.5 psi

6. Vein Pressure Converter 345 bhp @ 13.5 psi

7. Sport Turbo Upgrade/550cc injectors 438 bhp @ 15 psi

8. Cam Shafts, Cam Gears 453 bhp @ 15psi

 

[shaeff]

origionally posted by AWIDESUPIE:

Minimum:

Make sure the motor/motor components is/are running up to factory specifications and that the HG has been retorqued to 75+ ftlbs or that it has been replaced by a metal head gasket (<--with the head/block machined if MHG) or both. Info for checking ct26(stock) turbo:Turbo 101. Run good fluids in everything. Good fluids in our car would be,synthetic, from Amsoil, Redline, and Mobil 1. Be sure of no leaks. With new motor/rebuild/etc use standard/Dino/Petroleum oil for first oil change and then synthetic. Synthetic is too slippery for break-in periods. You may also want to run a PCV bypass to an oil-catch-can so that there wont be a lot of oil in your intercooling system. Check out www.suprasport.com , www.mvpmotorsports.com , www.suprastore.com ... many others for good products.

300+ crank HP and mid to high maybe even low 13 1/4mile times with a good driver:

First:Guages: Get a boost guage good for PAST 15 PSI. Get an EGT guage tapped into the #6 exhaust manifold runner (closest to firewall). Get an Air/Fuel guage. Possibly get a wideband 02 for precise tuning ( BUT ... your local dyno/tuning shop should have one for when you dyno tune ... so you may not want to pay for one for now).

BOV: Stocker is WEAK! We have cheap solutions though.
BOSCH BOVs/BPVs for Saab and/or Porsche can be used as a direct replacement for ABOUT 30$+ LABOR.
Enjoy the following link:BOV/BPV thread with many links. Make sure to see the links in that thread.
The best Bosch PN is the 0 280 142 110 . This BOV/BPV should be good for 20+lbs of boost and not "hoot" at idle or show any other problems with installation/durability etc. There are also aftermarket BOVs from Grddy/HKS etc etc etc ... search the web.

Next: Exhaust: Most expensive power mod will be full 3+inch exhaust from your turbo all the way back. Include a muffler and a high flow catalytic cnverter if you want to pass smog. I reccomend going custom for the exhaust piping. Random Technologies makes good high flow cats and there are a bunch of good mufflers. Check out the websites I mentioned for good products.

Next: Intake: Cheapest intake is a factory drop in with a
modified/cut stock air box .
I am fairly sure that you can figure out how to modify the box, but ask if you need to. ITG filters are by far the best flowing and filtering filters produced in the world, currently (*I don't want to have a bunch of comments on this because I don't want the thread hijacked )... believe me or not, they are the best ... but it isn't always necessary to have the best because other filters such as K&N filter and flow "fine").
ITG filter site
Purchase ITG filters from Coast Fabrication

Many other companies make drop-ins and entire kits for our car like amsoil/k&n/apexi/hks etc. Check the websites I mentoined above for product listings.

Next: Intercooler pipes: The stock intercooler is good, flawlessly, for around 400+hp ... but not everyone believes it except for the guys that are doing it. There are enough flow tests and guys doing it to be confident that the stock IC is good for 400+hp.
See the following link to ONE (of plenty) guy's mk3 running the stock intercooler with the intercooler pipes that we are going to talk about. The intercooler pipes write-up that we will be talking about was made by this guy:
John Lunsford at 7mpower.com.
The following is the link to the PVC intercooler pipe write-up that will cost about 40$ tops (compare that to the 400+$ kits sold) and it will flow 400+HP guaranteed and not only withstand the heat but lower your EGTs better than the more expensive metal kits. <--- It is the same thing with the people who doubt the stock intercooler ... many don't believe in it, but it works flawlessly. (*I don't want to have a bunch of comments on this because I don't want the thread hijacked). You need to make sure that you get the correct temperature treated PVC and follow directions " to the 'T' ". <--- If you do then it will be flawless and you will be very pleased.JBLMK3 PVC IC pipe write-up FOR ONE STOCK INTERCOOLER. <--- Follow this link and you will see other links within it to get parts needed and a sectioned write-up.

Want to run the same PVC IC pipe write-up FOR 2 STOCK INTERCOOLERS FOR BETTER COOLING AND HP NUMBERS ? <--- Click that link.

Next: Cheapest way to increase boost: Shim Wastegate, JMBC bleeder, Ball+Spring. **The only method I would reccomend is the ball+spring controller.** Other will most likely render inconsistant boost. You will want to increase boost as much as you can until you hit "Fuel Cut" (<---which really should be called "spark cut" becasue it cuts plug spark, not fuel). Fuel cut will come on at about 12 psi because the signal coming from your afm(air fuel meter ... thing behind the intake box and before the plastic accordian hose that goes to your turbo) will tell the TCCS(Toyota Computer Control System) that it is letting in too much air in and that your motor could be running lean so it cuts spark to keep you from running too hot/lean and from consequently "blowing up" your engine. "Fuel Cut" is a very good safety precaution for our motors, the only problem is that it hinders performance via high boost levels.

At this point, at around 11-12psi you should be running about 280-290 crank HP/340 crank torque which will also be close to "fuel cut" if not already a problem. Next we will talk about raising boost to the full, yet safe, potential of the stock turbo/fuel system by raising the "Fuel Cut" with the stock AFM.

Next: See Raising "Fuel Cut" with stock AFM and Raising FC with stock AFM on SM. and continue reading below.

Basically all that you do is utilize the stock adjustbale screw on the stock 7mgte AFM to allow air into the AFM system through the "extra AFM tunnel". Many people get the misconception that the AFM is now sucking in more air but it is sucking in the same amount of air. Since the air is now being sucked through the "extra tunnel", it is "sneaking by" the Karmam Vortex meter that meters air in the AFM. The Karman Vortex meter measure air FREQUENCY, NOT MASS. So, you get to suck in the same amount (mass) of air that you were before at that boost level BUT the meter doesn't read the same FREQUENCY at that boost level because the air is dispersed past the meter. BUT, as you raise the boost by shimming the wastegate more, there will be a point (preferably sometime after 15psi if you adjust the screw properly) that you will hit "Fuel Cut" again becasue the AFM will once again be metering the FREQUENCY signal that triggers "Fuel Cut".

*EDIT:Stay away from porting the afm. Porting can deteriorate eficiency of Karman Vortex meter which is very bad.

In this thread that I linked to above, you will notice that this is a somewhat "touchy" thing to do without fuel upgrades BUT it can be run flawlessly with the proper tuning. You, especially, should find this more convenient to do since you have a dyno/tuning shop near your home.

The turbo is safely run at 15psi. Owners have said that they mostly encountered stock turbo problems from boost elevated past 15psi.**Some owners do boost past 15psi on stock turbo .. but I would not reccomend it ... just in case.**

The fuel injectors have been mapped to have flow for over 400HP AT 100% DUTY AND AT 100% EFFICIENCY. John Lunsford has dynoed over 440+rwhp with stock injectors at 100% efficiency and duty. I do not know what the highest potential power numbers are that the stock fuel pump should be good for, but I know it can be run, with this set-up, with careful tuning. Also, Trey Parson's (SupraTrey) dynoed 440+rwhp with stock fuel pump with 12volt feed modification.

I am not saying that the stock fuel will not work fine for this set-up, untuned, but it shoud be tuned to insure effectiveness. Get it tuned at that local dyno shop near you (or whichever you think is best to tune at) and it should be fine. Worst case scenario should be that, it isn't working/tuning well (running lean), and that you need to get an Air Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR) ... (atleast) and/or possibly a fuel pump (Walbro 255per/hour) in order to increas fuel pressure. An AirFuelControler and or wideband 02 sensor would definitely help with tuning.

Now you should be running a fair amount over 300 crank HP (320 CRANK HP by the 11crank HP for every psi rule) ... "and mid to high maybe even low 13 1/4mile times with a good driver". Slicks/drag radials and some weight savings will also help out alot.

With 320+CRANK HP and A LOT of torque and 13 second 1/4 mile times, the stock clutch might be close to needing an upgrade. It will last for a while but I would not guarantee it to last forever at high abuse. There are various upgrades for the clutches at the sites I mentioned and at alot of various places. The internet is your friend, USE IT.

In many cases for this list I used the most cost/reliablility ratio effective information available. Many of these "cheaper" parts can be replaced by more expensive brand name products found on the web, but they are not necessary for all applications ... especially not for these Basic Performance Upgrages.

 

[shaeff]

origionally posted by Shawndude:

The following HP numbers were obtained from this website:
http://rob.carlile.home.mchsi.com/dynoruns/dynoruns.htm
Dyno graphs are included for every stage of the modification on the link. All numbers are at the rear wheel.

1) Stock = HP ?, TQ =?

2) RSR 70mm exhaust and a K&N FIPK intake.
Hp = 215
Tq = 226

3) Boost raised to 12 PSI, via boost controller
Hp = 249
Tq = 293

4) HKS downpipe
Hp = 255
Tq = 286

5) Lexus AFM + 550 injectors, Boost raised to 15 PSI
Hp = 283
Tq = 350

6) HKS intercooler
HP = 285
Tq = 354

7) HKS sport turbo
Hp = 340
Tq = 354

 

[7m-gte_power]

man i hope i get into thsoe numbers!! thanks

Kerry

 

[Eriol]

"but Apexi performed the best in this test. For hints on installing a full intake kit, please see this tech tip. "

I'm guessing those are supposed to be links...? They don't link to anything.

Thanks for reposting!